SA22C-RX

And to clarify you run 5L of diesel only whilst your car idles as for 15 mins to clean the engine? No oil mixed at all?

How do you go about cleaning your PCV valve? Hot steam or kerosene? Do you soak it? Not better to just replace? =]

Can't believe you've put a catch can on the old 2GR 🤣👍💪

Thanks alot for the in depth reply. Greatly appreciated. I guess I'll run a flush soon at 63,000 and then 65,000, then a normal oil change at 70. Its sitting on 61.9 now. That's my plan of attack if I decide to flush. Tbh I'm still in 2 minds about it. You hear every now and again after being flushed some issues arise. It's usually with engines that have severe sludge, mine does not, but it's still something I want to avoid. If I don't flush, I'm just gunna do oil n filter changes at 63, 65 and 70 and see how the oil fairs after each. Thanks again 👍

Hi all. This is my 3rd Aurion. 2 GSV40 and now a GSV50. I do most mechanical work myself. 2 back operations have slowed that down recently but anyway on with my story. I recently purchased a 2014 prodigy. 61000kms. Started life as a fleet car and then sold privately at 8000kms to the owner before me who was an elderly gentleman. The cars in fairly good condition. His service history is not so much. Looks as if the oil was was changed at 8000, 30000 and 60000. There are 2 other services 11k and 20k but no information. So I'm thinking at worst which I knew before buying, that it's possibly gone 30k without an oil change. Now this is not 100% but is definitely possible. The old fellah had failing health and I bought the car off the dealership thst acquired it for him when he wanted one back in 2015 at 8000kms. He's apparently become ill so his family sold it back to the dealership he bought it from. Good country town ethics. Anyway so they didn't really want to call the old fellah to ask about the missing 45000 service. The dealership rang the other mechanic in the area and he had also not done it. So let's just assume it was done at 8000, 30000 and 60000. I have not pulled the valve cover off bank 2 yet but I took off the PCV valve and it looks as followed. {SEE PICTURES) I put my pinky in the plug hole too and felt around, it definitely has a sticky varbish under the valve cover, just like you can see on the head of the PCV valve. Actual valve is clear and opening and closing freely. I've never used an engine flush before, that's why I'm here asking questions. 1) Should I pull the valve cover off too properly inspect before deciding to use an engine oil flush like Nulon for example? 2) From the pic of the PCV, would you consider this amount of varnish to be worth doing an engine oil flush? 3) Anyone had any bad experiences with oil flushes afterwards, like noisy lifters or oil leaks? The car blows no smoke and runs great but within 500km of the oil change from the dealership I can see the oil starting to become dirty. Light brownish. Not black. But it shouldn't be this dirty already IMO. 4) So is varnish worth clearing or not? What do you think 😃 I love my 2gr-fe's that's why I buy these vehicles. Not for the looks of course 😲😉. So any help on a new found topic for me would be greatly appreciated. I of course will be doing regular oil changes that I now own it and I just want to give it its best life from here on in, a clean slate if that makes sense. I won't deny I do enjoy putting my foot down quite often, so I try to give my engines the best life I can with regular servicing and qaulity fuel.

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I can't really say. It's always had a SRI but new filter plugs n oil did improve idle months back..tried ecu reset *seemed* to help fir couple hundreds ks, then got bad again..... After first MAF and throttle body clean, idle and performance were Top notch for abour a week then lean issues came back but not as bad... cleaned with meth few weeks later, was greaf for 4 days then pretty lean again so decided to buy new MAF sensor............................................. I was able to take the car for a 20 minute blat today and with the new air flow meter I think that's as good as it will get, maybe im expecting too much. Idles ok cold and hot, clean revving throughout rev range just doesn't feel as quick as it can be but all in all I have to be happy with this new MAF sensor as it's running clean and not inconsistent anymore. 👍

Also if anyone cares, could the SRI with the new air filter be sucking air to hard n Close to the meter for it to read accurately, not sure exactly when problems started di just thought I'd out that out there, just an other theory of mine lol. I feel the sensor or other sensors maybe O2 are definitely always sending different or wrong/uneven signals I feel to the ecu to tell how quick for the Injectors to pulse. It's always inconsistent ( this was with old air flow meter in) ....Would injector cleaner be worth it, could be sticky Injectors, i feel not but Yeah, getting over it 👍

G'day everyone. For the past few months ive been having lean issues, I've cleaned the air flow meter with the correct cleaner, along with the throttle body. Car ran beautifully for about a week or so. This was a couple months back. Got sick of it not having full power again and cleaned it with meth this time. About 2 weeks ago. Car ran great for a few days, then started it up after work and boom, idle was funny straight away again, car sounds lean, runs lean n is ****** me off. It's not to the extreme it was before I cleaned the air flow meter originally with air flow meter cleaner but it's still not right. So I ordered a new air flow meter, I put it on this arvo, only went short drive 15min, lots of traffic around too so couldn't really test too much but hit lift , drove hard, drove normal but now we get to my main question. ( WHAT SERIAL IS YOUR MAF) ...... The car runs different n sounds different with new air flow meter, that's for sure. It sounds healthy at low rpm it's not running lean, no lean backfiring, but it sounds different especially at high rpm. I feel it runs better with the new Air Flow meter in normal driving circumstances which I'm glad about but it feels slower, weird i know, maybe running lean before squeezed a bit more out of itlol. it's ******, im over it. anyway under WOT not sure if its better or worse. It definitely sounds different, bit funny to be honest but feels Great under 10℅ cruising throttle. ANYHOW. that's why im wondering if the air flow meter could be wrong or something as the serial from my old one to new one are different, look identical, both denso Toyota....... Side notes...... Car has new plugs, engine oil, air filter(un oiled one)(long life k&n) reset ecu bout 2000kms ago..im pretty sure Its not a coil problem and , could be fuel filter or fuel pressure but cleaning n changing MAF has definitely fixed then ott fixed the problem you know, Cheers. More testing may be adequate with new air flow meter but it def sounds funny up top end with it. Cheers everyone

Awesome, thanks everyone 😉

Hahah Chain. Yeah so 290 and still running nicely ay?

Im up too 220,000 and I can assure you it's more then likely having the hardest time with its new owner 'me', but i care for engines with regular services and up keep. I try to give them a healthy life. I just like to keep my right foot planted, I am a truckie after all , hahah. So anyone seen these get over 300k or even 400 like a 4afe or ge? Cheers.

Anyone know of any dyno days coming up in Sydney over the next month or 2?

Thanks for the reply. Yeah it is fairly quite on idle and louder as revs rise. I'm certain with an "open rear muffler" this car would be fairly bloody loud. I took it to the creek last Wednesday and ran a 15.6 I'm sure I could a run a low 15. Maybe 15.1 or 15.2 with a better take off. I just wanted to know whether these twin loops are restrictive, I guess they're not really but power is power you know. Some will say the hi flow cat I put on recently is no better then the stock one that was on there but it runs a lot better with the hi flow. I guess I could take back to the strip, try run a low 15 or get some consistent times, then change muffler n see if there's any difference, I'd rather keep saving for another car though lol, cheers mate.

I currently have a header back exhaust. It goes from 3 inch to 2 3/4s to a high flow cat "that I just put on this morning as the other cat **** itself" to 2.5" cat back then one hotdog and it looks like either 2.5 or 2.25 the rest of the way through to an 'X force twin loop' rear muffler...... I am wondering if anyone has any previous experience with 2ZZ-GE exhaust systems. I know N/A engines like some form of back pressure but I feel these 2zzge's would love a free flowing exhaust system. So my question is should I change the twin loop x force to a free flowing open rear muffler. The car would be a lot louder, that's fine, I'm a Rotor freak but would it also allow the engine to flow better??? Anyone have have any knowledge on these twin loops, are they restrictive? This is my first time dealing with one. The first time i looked at it, i was like wtf is that doing =], cheers to any advice.

Sorry for no feedback lately. I got hit hard with food poisoning over the long weekend, so I've been a bit busy. I haven't had time yo do any further investigating but I will in future, thanks to Fupo and Trent for your help. Fupo I'm just glad I know the alarm siren actually sounds now so not in to much of a rush to troubleshoot its faults yet you know. Thanks a lot mate, really appreciate it. Without you, I wouldn't have got it to go off lol.

I'll make a decent paper clip pin to unlock the siren again n make sure i can switch it on off with ease. I'll connect earth back to bonnet switch, I'll check door n boot switches for discrepancy and I'll see what happens, I'll do a few tests n write down exactly what happens and I'll try turning the siren onto the 2nd ON position to see if that changes anything =]

Awesome thanks I'll give it a go tomorrow. See what happens. Battery in remote is good I would assume. Buttons always work with in 10-15 metres of car. Car battery is brand new, purchased yesterday.

And would you happen to know why I couldn't switch the alarm off with the key remote? Thanks again.

Ok so these switches are where exactly? And how do i go about "checking them"? Cheers mate. Excuse my ignorance.

Alright well i have half good news. Fuses were fine and managed to pick the keyhole on siren with paperclip and turn it into an ON position, there were 2 ON positions but I only could manage to switch it to the first one. Locked car with key remote and , *beep beep* success , siren works. Unlocked car started it. Switched it off, locked it. 5 seconds later alarm started going off, couldn't turn it off with key remote or by starting car so I managed to eventually turn the key slot back into the off position with my paperclip.... ....So siren works but alarm is being tripped by something when it shouldn't I guess, hence why previous owner turned it off.... I am wondering by having the little brown earth wire constantly just earthed and not hooked up to the bonnet pin device, would that be setting it off??? I also can't manage to pick the lock again "I'm probably not trying as hard" as trying to turn it off before nearly made my eardrums bleed. So I might just leave it at that for now unless anyone knows the reason as to why it sounds for no reason and you cannot switch it off with key remote. At least I know the siren works =]. Thanks a lot Fupo, Legend.

I checked the box out today. I don't have the key for it... The brown earth wire coming from it was connected to the button you were telling me about it that is under the bonnet. The button/latch thing was a little rusty so I cut and earthed it straight to the car to check it. It made no difference on siren sounding when making alarm go off by opening door with key after locking with remote. I also tried to make it go off by locking car with alarm with the bonnet button pushed down n then releasing. Didn't set it off. I will check fuse tomorrow , hope thats it or otherwise speaker/siren is not working or not hooked up properly I guess to where the red n black wires go through firewall into main harness I guess for power? ... Never been so excited to hear a dirty car alarm sounding lol. Thanks again.

Awesome, thank you very much for your wise remarks. Any idea on the why the siren isn't sounding? Does the noise literally come out of that black box? Like I said I know nothing about electrics, my guess is its not connected or its just old n dead?

Blinking Of*

After thinking about it, maybe the simultaneous blinking off the blinkers from opening the car with the key, after being locked with the remote, was the the alarm going off but with no siren, what do you think mate?