Whip Cracker

You shouldn't have to pay for anything, regardless mate.. if she's at fault, you shouldn't have to be out of pocket for anything... you gave up too easily my friend. Regardless of what insurance you have, you should be getting that fixed, with no claim to your name either.

You wanna feel response... take the filter out altogether and go for a spin around the block... that changes everything, lol. I've re-routed my snorkel down to the front of the car... bit more air and all, but not really any difference honestly.

As mentioned... It is a HIGH priority that the Negative be the same, if not larger gauge. If you're running 2 amps, I suggest running a 2 gauge cable to the back of the car... a distribution block at the boot, and 2 x 4 gauge cables off that. Get a 4 channel to run the speakers... at least 70w RMS from each speaker, and make sure the speakers are at the same spec. You're best off running a sub or two off a Monoblock amp my friend. See if you can get a hold of a 300w RMS Monoblock (1 channel) if you're wanting to run just one sub, or maybe a 500w RMS monoblock if you're wanting to run 2 x subs. Get 2 x 250w RMS subs on a 500w Monoblock, and connect them in the same connections on the amp... it'll haul ***** mate! 1 - Only talk in RMS language... lol... I don't know the wole PMPO thing, coz that's what I call "bullsh!t power". You can't just half the PMPO rating, because it's still not 100% correct for the RMS power. All in all... 1 x 4 channel amp running speakers... 70w RMS each channel or better 1 x 500w RMS Monoblock... connect 2 x 250w RMS subs (12 inch is good). The monoblocks these days are 2 ohm stable anyway. My 2c :)

Don't bother about a cheap 2 dinner mate... they're nasty as! Cheap ones will be as expensive as a decent single din. You're best off buying an Alpine or Sony HU... and getting an aftermarket din replacement (pocket or whatever). Pretty straight forward... I'd just get the place you bought it from to install it... get lifetime warranty on installs usually :)

1MZ and 3VZ both have same power??? Nice... I always thought the 1MZ had an extra 4kw Russ?

I've replaced the coolant in my 3VZ-FE (Gen III Camry) pretty straight forward... drain the coolant outta the radiator with the plug... do it on the grass or sumfin. don't bother about takin the cap off the top of the radiator. I ended up filling bottles of water and flushing the whole engine/radiator out until I saw water coming out of the bottom of the radiator (there's a cap for coolant on the engine). Only fill the coolant, and flush out through that cap on the engine. As mentioned, there is another outlet somewhere on the engine... generally on the right side (looking at the car). The 3VZ I couldn't even FIND the damn thing, but the 1MZs should be alright? You're best off either getting Toyota coolant, or the diluted Nulon Red coolant. I use the Nulon coolant... ended up using around 7L or sumfin... can't remember offhand, but more than one big bottle lol. The reason why the cooland overflow tanks keep cracking is due to the sunlight creeping in from the side and heating up. I use padded tape along the side there (thanks to Steve at Camcrew), and that's fixed the problem. Hope this helps mate.

G,day mate, To my knowledge, the 1994 Camry only came out with the 2.2L 5SFE 4 banger with EFI mate. Not the 3SFE... they were in the Gen II models... I think the latest that the 3SFE came out was 1992, so yeah.