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Posts posted by lateralus
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if it is related to the inserts, try using them without the washers, just as a trial. i know they may pop out after a while, but do this as a process of elimination.
i'm using the same mount inserts without any washers and mines dead quiet (ie. no knocking). they aren't popping out, either.
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kinda looks a little like a golf
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2005 corolla sportivo
minor service every 4000kms myself and anything else that comes along according to the log book (but i replace consumables much sooner than recommended anyway).
taken to a mechanics workshop (family friend) every 7500km for a proper check over and major work if required. $60 does it nicely :P
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not sure if any1 is still following but i test drive a 03 sportivo today and im abit hooked! however there are some things im not sure about can u mind clearing them for me, when i turn on the engine it had a louder then normal torque like sound, im not sure if thats a stock sound or a sound with a CAI in it. And also the clutch is harder then a normal car clutch is that normal or am i mistakening it with a heavy duty one? and also i think i try to go from 4th to 2nd gear but it kinder didn't let me im not sure if thats normal in all cars? also when i clutch i pressed it all the way im not sure if ur ment to do that i was just afraid that i didnt clutch enough (its been quite a long time since i've last drove manual, don't taunt me for being so amateur-ish). Anyway the car had 93 0000 km on it and the outside was in good condition however the inside was an okay for me probaly just 7/10, it had some scratches where the electronic window switch was on. anyway the dealer wants about 14k for the car is that too much?
anyway if u can be bothered reading and give me some thoughts back that would be great :D
thanks
not sure what you mean by "torque like sound". but if you're talking about the higher idling when the engine is cold, that's how all toyota's are.
with regards to the hardness of the clutch pedal, you'd be surprised that a lot of heavy duty clutches are lighter. the stiffness of the pedal is usually influenced by the turnover spring and how worn the current clutch is. the more worn the clutch, the heavier it will feel.
the issue with going from 4th to 2nd could be related to you not pressing the clutch pedal in all the way as you have admitted to (btw, fully depressing the clutch is how they operate normally). the shifting trouble could be related to an out of adjustment pedal height.
with limited info on the car and not having a look at it, there could be numerous things that could contribute to what you have described. you're best to get your own mechanic to look at it if you're not confident.
hope that helps.
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exhaust sold!
Where are you located mate?
hey mate where are u located in melb? i might be heading up there next week if not is it possible to send? after both the Shocks and exausht system.
ill grab both if they fit on an o3 sportivo
i'm in whittlesea (victoria), but can organise to meet up somewhere if you can't make it out to me.
hey mate
pretty interested in the shocks and spring combo
just wondering how much to post it to brisbane qld?
pm me
thanks
pm sent.
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what would happen if you didnt do anything about the knocking nosies?
and you just left it?
will soemthing get damaged?
thanks
you won't cause damage to the car, but you'll probably just get annoyed at the constant knocking when turning sharply
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bloody hell that is a rip off!
save yourself $180 and do it yourself, it really is simple.
get some clear silicone tubing ($2 at an aquarium for a metre or two) and an old coke bottle or make a bleeder bottle (i'm assuming you know what this looks like). put the hose over the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder, and open the valve slightly (using an 8mm flare wrench) until the fluid starts to run out slightly.
once this starts happening, go into the car and start pumping the clutch pedal manually with your hand. you need to do it by hand as the pedal won't return by itself. keep doing this until either the fluid runs clear or no more bubbles come out. tighten the bleeder valve until it's snug (or to 8Nm if you're anal), and you're done!
it's definitely not a $180 job. i can bleed the clutch on my car in about 5 mins, if that.
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no, as you are still using the same clutch. the bedding in procedure is only used for new clutches. but it is recommended you bleed the hydraulic clutch line after the sort of work you've done
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there is no whiteline front sway bar made specifically for our sportivo's. the people who have them have fitted the one designed for the zze122 suspension set-up, which is a slightly different design. the sway bars do still fit ok and do what they're designed for (more or less), except for the knocking noise you have described.
there are 2 ways you can solve the problem:
1. replace the whiteline sway bar with the original sway bar, or;
2. retain the whiteline swaybar, but replace the linking arms with shorter ones
edit: 1000TH POST BITCHES!
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i''ll pop down for a catch up on the arvo, but i'm not able to make it for dinner
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looking much better duy!
i wonder what made them do the bend over the axle that shape?
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you dont need to use a brand name muffler, resonator, etc. if the system is made well to begin with, then that will be the biggest gain. just don't skimp on quality welding as you will develop cracks and exhaust leaks in no time. correctly made mandrel bends are a must, too.
and i would tend to agree with the whole varex thing. to me, it's a bit of a gimmick just so you can say "look what i've got" (varex owners you know you want to punch me square in the face, haha ;) )
with regards to getting a high flow cat, you will find that pretty much all the guys on here with the highest power outputs and 1/4 mile times are using stock cats. you would probably be better off putting that money towards getting your stock exhaust manifold port matched and polished.
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the car had had a fairly large repair done on it even though it was not on any revs or RTA records... for that price i would be very wary of it, and if you dont want to take a gamble then dont.....
keep in mind that it there will only ever be anything on REVS if it is declared written off or stolen. contrary to popular belief, there isn't some big database of accidents and repair jobs done to every car
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that sportivo has been on carsales for quite a while now, too.
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haha, thanks guys
yeah the seats are a lot brighter than what i'm used to.
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i haven't got any CES branding on my exhaust. whether or not the older ones do, i'm not sure.
have you got any pictures of it?
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ouch! lucky you noticed it before you lost anymore oil
hopefully your engine is ok. were you driving at the time or was it left idling?
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big no no on the crankshaft pulley! the 2zz's are externally balanced, so if you fit the lightweight pulley it will most likely cause problems as it may be too much underdrive.
otherwise, good purchases!
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no wat i meant was when u are on the policy holder account as a nominated driver, the discounts get passed on to both of u rather than just the policy holder. so even when u go with an insurance company they look at ur driving history if there was no claim against you u can get the benefits for not having an at fault claim for x amount of years.
what Kenshin X has said is correct. regardless of whether or not you are a nominated driver, when you gain coverage (even if the policy is in your name or not) you have a duty of disclosure and utmost good faith to tell the insurer about any claims and accidents you have had, usually in the last 5 years only. this includes windscreen and natural disaster/storm claims.
so technically, you accumulate your own rating regardless of the terms of the policy. for example, even if the main policyholder is a rating 2 or even rating 4, you yourself may be entitled to a rating 1 depending on your insurance and driving history if you were to have a policy in your own name.
hope that helps clarify the rating system.
You could get your parent to insure your car under their name and include you as a driver until you turn 25.
This way you could save some monies on the insurance premium.
The only downside is you won't get any unclaim discounts until you have your own policy
while this in theory sounds great and yes you can save money, it is misrepresentation of facts.
you would still have the main financial interest in the vehicle, and if you're the registered owner and main driver (at least 20%) you must disclose this. otherwise, when or if you claim and the insurer finds this out, you run the risk of having your claim denied (if the insurer can demonstrate they wouldn't have offered cover if the true facts had been revealed at the policy application time), or they can force you to pay any outstanding and/or additional premium on a pro-rata basis (ie. back-dated the amount owing) before they pay any policy benefits.
but, at the end of the day, it's your choice what you do.
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is that a genuine screen?
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thanks guys!
oh my.... those recaros wouldnt have a ciggie burn on the drivers seat wouldnt it?
no haha
yeah, it does unfortunately in between the seat cushion and side bolster. it's so small though, you probably wouldn't notice it unless you were specifically looking for it. they're otherwise mint so i'm not fussed :D
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thats HOT :P are the recaros comfortable for everyday driving? is the seating position lower than stock?
well getting in and out of them is a bit of an art, which i've now mastered, lol :P
but yeah, otherwise they are very comfy. they do sit slightly lower than stock, and go a little further back
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header fitment
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
Posted · Edited by lateralus
even though they both have the 2zz engine, as it's for a celica i don't believe they will fit the sportivo (correct me if i'm wrong).
to save on headaches with fitment, i'd recommend getting your stock manifold ported and polished. for our cars, this would provide the same amount as headers of power gains if done correctly.