boxerboy

which 1 would i be losing most money and least money if i sell 2nd handed?

The more you spend, the more you'll lose.

They all get marked eventually.

Buy what you can afford.

Mags rarely increase usefulness, unless you want to pull another car bogan.

The pads on my 45K Aurion are almost due for a change.

Why do the discs need to be machined? The discs don't pulsate, and they're smooth enough. I don't do that to my motorcycle discs (which do develop a wavy wear pattern) when I change the pads, in fact, it's rare for anyone I know to do it. However, car mechanics seem to insist it's required.

It's the American muscle Camry!

Stick with it.

Could this be the smell that emanates from the aircon that some complain of?

The Aurion goes in for the 15k service on Wed and as part of the service, I intend on supplying my own synthetic engine oil.

Looking at the Totota viscosity recomendations for the Aurion, it states 5W-30.

My brand choice in oil (Penrite SIN) comes in;...

Why not try Penrites recommended oil for the Aurion?

HPR 5

The initial post said "a tiny bit" below...

Personally, I'd leave it alone. It's not broke, don't fix it.

OK so I checked with my dealer and apparently (showed me the entry on their computer) has already fitted the dash pad/rattle kit. So given it has already been done under warranty they are pretty much saying tough luck. I asked if there was a way that perhaps the kit could have come loose or moved and they suggested not. So I am left with perhaps trying to have a go at this myself I think. Has anyone got any experience with how to get the speedo area of the dash out or the whole dash so I can at least get in there and see what it might be? Appreciate any help. Cheers.

The way I read that, they've just admitted to shoddy work. If they've done it under warranty, then is that work and part also under a warranty of its own? Do you know when it was done?

Buying a car isn't usually an investment decision, but to lose $40K in less than 2 years whether it's a Toyota, a Holden, a Ford or anything really just doesn't make sense to me.

In the end, it's still just a Toyota, a Holden, a Ford which has likely been superceded by the next latest and greatest model.

Cars can be very personal selections for many people because some believe it portrays the image that they would like etc, etc...that can be when they pay too much.

For these reasons, I try to buy a car at just over 12 months of age. The Prodigy I recently purchased was >$16K below it's initial sale price, and it had 11 months rego left. That's a fair saving on a car that has been partially run in for me. It was bought because it suited my needs, and not my emotions. It will continue to depreciate of course, but I've avoided that first big hit.

Of course there are people out there that have much more money than I have and they can afford to lose $ on cars. Then there's leasing.

put it this way... right now is a good time to buy any VE holden...

the R8, auto, leather, bimodal exhaust, sports suspension was $65k drive away... thats like 15k under RRP i think... at least 10k...

It's still just a Holden, with the apparent reliability issues.

What will it be worth in 2 years, if purchased for 65K?

Dunlop and Goodyear were always good OZ tyres but i havent touched them since they offshored to Asia, so i cant say much about the quality.

Are any tyres manufactured in Oz these days?

I have Falkan 26912 in 215/60/16 on mine and they work well in all conditions except snow apparently so if you intend to head to the wintry hills then maybe not them. They were $135 each from memory. I haven't had them long enough to report longevity.

Taffy, the last post was close to 12 months ago...and Bondie has moved on to another marque, months back.

I recently got a set of Falkan 26912 in 215/60/16 for my Aurion for $135 each.

Feel fine, good on wet roads, reasonably quiet. Too early to know re:Longevity?

Look here...Tyres and rims.

Thanks everyone for the discussion. I hope it helps someone avoid a fine.

A part of me tells me the foggies are a bit useless, as they'll rarely get used, and that using them whilst not required is about the look. Maybe not for all, but maybe for some.

I was breathalyzed today, and took the opportunity to ask the LEO what the fine was in Vic for using the foggies inappropriately. She immediately said $172!!! That's more than a little slap on the wrist, it's a punch on the nose <_<

Thanks.

Wot damage does the fine do?

Found some info...the link

New to me Prodigy...it has fog lights.

Can anyone tell me what the road rules are in regard to when you can, where you can, and when and where you can't use them please?

Cheers

I can't remember where the study was done..might have been a RACV thing...but they compared the 3 usual ron's over multiple tanks/a few 1000ks/variable conditions.

The results showed that all 3 worked ok (knock sensors help) but importantly, the cost differential was minimal as the engine uses the expensive stuff more efficiently....or something along those lines.

I have always wondered whether brake flushes are really just brake fluid exchanges where the lid is off, the fluid removed via syringe and replaced with new, no flushing involved.

I guess some places will do it right, but I still have my suspicions.

When was the vehicle first registered? That's when the warranty is taken from. If it was still within the 3 years, I'd take it in and ask them. Let them find out for themselves if it's eligible and get them to offer the reason if they say no.

I got my Aurion on the weekend, and showed the inlaws on Saturday and my parents on Sunday. Both Dads commented on the fact that the power window switches dont have lights to show you where they are. I guess their position would just become habit, but for people who are unfamiliar with it...

So they liked it then? <_<

Have you read this...http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23623

10winter40 means the 10 weight is for cold engines...the higher the number the more viscous.

A thin oil has a lower number and flows more easily, while thick oils have a higher number and are more resistant to flow.

Ahh okay, so I guess the semi syn 5W40 for the aurion should be okay.

Yes, more than adequate.

10winter40 means the 10 weight is for cold engines...the higher the number the more viscous.

A thin oil has a lower number and flows more easily, while thick oils have a higher number and are more resistant to flow.

Penrite has a good list of products.

If they recommend it, it'll be the right one.

They recommend HPR 5, a semi-synth 5W40