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Hello Everyone !
I've started to do some upgrades to my slightly old Toyota Camry. I replaced the headunit in favour of getting something with Android Auto, so I bought and installed a Sony XAV-AX100.
Works well, sound quality is good on the stock speakers (I think I had an upgrade from the factory 4 speakers + 2 tweeters in the front doors). Problem starts when I turn up the volume. Anything that is slightly on the louder side, and my music starts getting gaps in it, as if the headunit is lacking power and cutting out to not damage itself.
I've ordered a pioneer amp to potentially fix this issue, http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D1004which can push out 45W RMS at 4 ohms, but I'm not sure what the impedance of the stock speakers is. (Can someone help out?)
To be clear, the stock speakers used to go a lot louder on the stock headunit without distortion than what the Sony is cutting out at so therefore I don't believe the speakers are the problem. Stock headunit looks like this: http://codedradio.info/show.php?p=pics/TOYOTA/37803.jpg&title=TOYOTA%2037803 and I think the model is 86100-YC280 by Fujitsu Ten.
Could someone shed some light on this and tell me if I am looking at this the right way and if getting an amp added to this will fix the issue? Is this issue due to an impedance mismatch?
Had a question about an issue I am suffering with my Corolla (2007) Ascent.
Essentially the gauges (speed, odometer, rev), lights for cental column (air con, fan) are not turning on when I switch on.my headlights. They come eventually. Unfortunately, this may mean minutes without lights on my dashboard.
Basically, i can't clear see my speed at night.
Headlights and rears work fine. Internal lights above head switch on fine. No issues there.
Just my internals on dashboard that are suffering here.
I analysed the no.18 fuse (in engine compartment) for "internal lights" but it is not blown.
Not an electrician. Could it be the relay though?
Any thoughts guys?
The casing around my gear shifter (automatic car) is broken, so i decided to get a new one from the wreckers.. whilst trying to remove the gear knob so i could easily slide the old housing off and slide the new housing on i've realised that the Overdrive cord actually goes up into it the knob and therefore even though i can pull the knob off it will only go so far as the cord is attached inside of it to the button.. any ideas? do i really have to replace the whole gearstick ect just for a little bit of housing? is there somewhere i can just disconnect the o/d cord from temporarily just so i can get this little bit of plastic over my gearshifter?
Picture of the broken casing so everyone knows what i'm talking about lol
I have a 2012 atara sl. The middle brake light that sits on the rear deck has come unstuck on one side and is now hanging lop sided. Anyone know how to access it? I'm pretty sure I just need to put some good double sided tape on it and stick it back but it looks like I'll have to take off part of the inside of the boot to get to it. Not sure though.
By Sean Reynolds
I've currently got a problem with my Toyota Camry 2005 Altise (ACV36R),
When driving home the other day, I noticed that the power to my head unit would switch off, then back on.
Once the headlights were turned on, the radio cut out as well.
When I arrived home, and turned the car off, I was unable to start it again.
I checked and found that I had less than 10V across the battery terminals (which were extremely corroded). The battery is now 6 years old.
Given the age of the battery, I decided to replace it with a new battery, and clean the corrosion on the leads.
Now the car starts fine, but I'm not seeing an increase in voltage across the battery terminals when the car is running (even at 2000RPM). It's just slowly dropping, which is leading me to believe the alternator is damaged. However, there is no battery fault lamp indicator (the bulb is fine - lights up on startup).
I've done a diode test of the alternator. No issue found.
I've done a continuity check from the alternator to the positive post of the battery terminal. No issue found.
I've sourced an alternator for $250. Just wanted to get any other ideas here before I commit to purchasing it. The only reason I'm holding back from getting one, is that there is no battery warning lamp; which I would expect to see if there was a charging problem...
Appreciate any help.
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