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Latest Postings
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15
FUEL WARNING MESSAGE
Yes, with 12v applied to the pump you can definitely hear it whirring if it is working. Kind regards Geoff -
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Yaris Cross roof rack
Hi all, I’m looking at purchasing a Yaris Cross GXL however I can’t seem to find any official roof rack for the car On the Toyota website it doesn’t show a roof rack protruding like the Corolla Cross GXL I know you can get roof racks that slide under the door however I don’t see any official listing Interestingly enough Toyota offer an official bike rack for the Yaris, Corolla hatch etc but not the Yaris Cross Rhino-Rack offer a third party roof rack for the “TOYOTA Yaris Cross Gen1 5dr SUV Bare Roof” but I’m a bit hesitant to use a 3rd party roof rack on a brand new car. Do you know if this would cause any warranty issues etc? Another option would be to get a Corolla Cross GXL. However the Yaris Cross would be perfect if it could have a roof rack as I don’t need the extra size, engine and price point of the Corolla Cross. Happy to hear your thoughts -
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Hello Toyota Club AU
Hi all, I just realised there is an AU version of toyotaownersclub.com so jumping in to say Hi I have a region specific question as our cars differ from the UK so will go ahead and post in the Yaris forums -
15
FUEL WARNING MESSAGE
I've just got a price from Toyota up here in QLD for the whole replacement unit... (OUCH!!!! 😭) I would share more information on my investigation so far, but apparently, I am a spam bot and can upload pictures, but not write the story to go with it.... without being pulled up for it...... I can tell you that I am getting no suction on what I believe is the fuel line from the sub to main tank. I am however getting 13v on the fuel pump connection. It comes on for a moment before going off. I'm guessing because of this error. Perhaps the rail stops delivering power..... My next step is to apply 12v to the pump and see if I can hear it in the tank making any noise. Surely, I'd be able to hear something with the car not running - if it is working? -
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How hard is to to fit an clinometer?
My dash looks like the picture below, but I wish to add the factory clinometer. Does anybody know how hard of a job that would be? I wish to add the factory clinometer The final result would look something like this -
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Hilux 2.7 1998 has knock in motor
A recently purchased 2.7 hilux seemed okay, but when started up (warm) a clunk happened then a loud knock started. The coolant drained out, perhaps into the engine, but being unfamiliar with the vehicle I am unsure what has happened. Any suggestions and possible remedies would be appreciated. Higgyboys -
7
2017 Kluger AWD. Noise in Cabin - Bearing/Diff. Not Sure.
Chiming in from the States here, I have a question. I am assuming your Kluger's have the same UA80 transmission as we do? When you say the transfer case was replaced, was it the physical "transfer case" or the transmission? We have similar issues here where the UA80 starts "whining" needing a complete transmission replacement. -
9
Engine Immobiliser
Gday guys I have 2012 Toyota aurion , for some reason the key reader is not reading the key , so car cranks but will not start , I have checked all fuses but havnt checked relays . Does anyone know why this out of know where would occur ? -
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Rock sliders installation
I've recently had a company install a set of Phat rocksliders and they've told me they hadn't fitted the centre bracket on the left side due to lack of clearance from the fuel tank and chassis rail. Is there a way to install this without dropping the fuel tank? -
1
Advice needed
On the surface it sounds like total nonsense, but there is a kernel of possibility in there. Firstly, firing _order_ is a function of the distributor cap and the spark plug wires, but to run right it relies on matching the order in which the camshafts open/close the valves and the crankshaft moves the pistons up/down. If none of those things have been changed as part of the turbo install, then firing _order_ isn't the problem (standard for a 4-cylinder is 1-3-4-2). Confirming your leads are going to the right spark plugs is a quick and free check though, and an easy thing to stuff up when putting everything back together if you were forgetful/distracted. Ignition _timing_, on the other hand, is what you would be looking at if the diagnosis was that the engine was firing on the downstroke. Normally, ignition timing is set to fire the spark plugs just BEFORE top-dead piston centre (ie, on the compression upstroke, this is called timing ADVANCE), so that the combustion occurs at the very top of the cycle to impart the most downwards force to the piston. If the ignition timing is completely out, then the spark plugs might be firing AFTER top-dead centre (timing RETARD), which will make the engine run like a bucket of bolts and also incredibly rich. Get a strobe and see what the timing is doing. However, the fact that you're contemplating installing a Haltech makes me think you've done this turbo upgrade without touching the factory computer, which in reality is most likely to be the culprit. Whilst it can work in some scenarios, running more than a small amount of boost through an NA engine/computer without any other upgrades is a recipe for disaster, as the ECU doesn't know how to handle the extra air (or can't even measure it properly to begin with) and will just flail around trying to adjust. Also, there is no "exhaust downstroke". In a suck-squeeze-bang-blow 4stroke, the exhaust part of the cycle is an upstroke of the piston (to force the burnt gases out of the combustion chamber). Intake (suck) = downstroke. Compression (squeeze) = upstroke. Power/combustion (bang) = downstroke. Exhaust (blow) = upstroke.
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