Overheating issue with 3sge (intermittant)

[toycam88]

My sons Celica (3S-GE) has been giving us the right royal runaround.

Overheating became a regular occurance so we troubleshot the following:

Replaced Radiator

Replaced leaking water Pump and backing housing

Replaced corroded ended metal piping along block to water pump

Replaced loosely fitting possibly incorrect radiator cap

Replaced thermstadt

Replaced thermatic fan relay

yet it still insists on getting hot somedays and others not

Anyone got any other ideas we may try? Also would like engine check light Fault code list is you have?

Thanks.

Edited July 3, 2010 by toycam88

[7shades]

How many K's does the Celica have?

The 3S have a nasty habit of sludging up, both in the coolant and oil galleries... Have you comprehensively flushed both systems?

I'd recommend doing so.

Add your cleaning agents, and give the car a damn good flogging. And I mean REALLY cane the snot out of it. Don't worry about something breaking, it won't.

The S series engine was massively over-engineered for reliability. When they are driven nicely (as most are) that's when you get the internal sludging.

I've had this problem with a couple of 5SFE Camrys and a 7AFE AE93RV. Both came good after the aforementioned engine-raping... The AE93 also required a treatment of denatured alcohol through the throttle body and intake to remove excess carbon buildup. It just hadn't been driven hard enough!

PS. What I've described above is actually the official Toyota 'fix' for that problem... Although you probably won't see it listed in the service manual :P

PPS. Don't forget of course to use proper Toyota Red coolant when refilling :)

[toycam88]

Cant say for certain on the kms but would be high 200 to mid 300 at a guess without the vehicle here.

Cylinder head was removed and blown head gasket replaced first up. Then the "other" leaks became apparent. But yes, its far from over yet. Will have to do some more things to it till we hunt down the problem. Sons ready to set fire to it! LOL

Thanks for the input, will put it to him. :)

[Guni]

Try changing the engine oil you use?

[bazz]

Cant say for certain on the kms but would be high 200 to mid 300 at a guess without the vehicle here.

Cylinder head was removed and blown head gasket replaced first up. Then the "other" leaks became apparent. But yes, its far from over yet. Will have to do some more things to it till we hunt down the problem. Sons ready to set fire to it! LOL

Thanks for the input, will put it to him. :)

When repairing the head gasket...dont take the shorter path....Some people simply replace the head gasket but make sure u machine the head and block...

[robie]

if it over heat when going up a hill or when you give it a bit i dear say you either have a blockage, leaking head gasket still or the system wasnt bleed properly when filling cooling system

if it just gets hot for no obvious reason the temp sensors may be conteminated try removing them and giving them a buff so there nice and clean or replace them. There will be 2, 1 is for the gauge the other will be for the ecu.

once you have done this the cooling system will require bleeding again

[Keisari]

The cooling system should really have been flushed, refilled and bled several times by now, having replaced the water pump, radiator, thermostat and head gasket at different times.

Assuming that's been done properly at least once, go back to basics. You say the problem is intermittent and especially prominent on hotter days. Does it happen at idle or during running? If during running, is it under 'normal' driving conditions or under hard driving?

If it happens mostly at idle, check the cooling fan for correct operation. When the car is at normal operating temperature, pop the hood and listen for the fan switching on and off (it's a very loud roar that should go on and off every 30 sec or so, accompanied by a blast of hot air over the engine). If you don't hear anything and the car starts overheating, switch the car off. Follow the wire from the fan to the fan relay and disconnect it. Then attach two wires from the battery terminals directly to the two terminals on the fan's electrical connector. If the fan now spins, the fuse, relay or temperature switch could be bad. If it doesn't, the fan motor is bad.

Keep us posted!

Edited September 5, 2010 by Keisari

[toycam88]

The cooling system should really have been flushed, refilled and bled several times by now, having replaced the water pump, radiator, thermostat and head gasket at different times.

Assuming that's been done properly at least once, go back to basics. You say the problem is intermittent and especially prominent on hotter days. Does it happen at idle or during running? If during running, is it under 'normal' driving conditions or under hard driving?

If it happens mostly at idle, check the cooling fan for correct operation. When the car is at normal operating temperature, pop the hood and listen for the fan switching on and off (it's a very loud roar that should go on and off every 30 sec or so, accompanied by a blast of hot air over the engine). If you don't hear anything and the car starts overheating, switch the car off. Follow the wire from the fan to the fan relay and disconnect it. Then attach two wires from the battery terminals directly to the two terminals on the fan's electrical connector. If the fan now spins, the fuse, relay or temperature switch could be bad. If it doesn't, the fan motor is bad.

Keep us posted!

Did all the above. Only thing we can put it down to is maybe a cracked block or a welsh plug leak?? Anyways, we solved the problem by purchasing a complete st162 which is now the main driver. The other vehicle is for sale.. for parts or if someone wants to perservere with it.