testing vacuum advanve

[john62]

Hello Have a 89 rn85r 2.4 ltre auto hilux ute.The vacuum advance unit has 2 vacuum connections.The one closest to the radiator holds vacuum the other nil. what is the purpose of the inside vacuum connection,also does it have any negative impact if non functional.Engine compression okay runs okay.A gem reco with about 35000 klms uphill is like someone dropped the anchor.Have same ute for spares with allmost non functional vacuum advance its uphill travel is excellent in comparsion. have switched carby and dist+plugs and leads between utes, no change. Being an OB with health problems an engine change would be difficult.Any advice appreciated Thank you

Edited April 11, 2011 by john62

[CONROD]

From memory one side advances the timing and the otherside retards the timing.Make sure the vaccum hoses are on the correct side. The retard feature comes into play such as backing off going down a hill or anywhere where a closed throttle is utilised. It retards the ignition to minimise backfire and quite a few other burning processes.To check if your vacuum advance is working remove the hose from the vacuum advance unit,relace with a similar size hose,start the engine and physically suck on the hose and your motor should gain rpm.Go and photo copy the diagram for the correct fitment of the hoses at a library, hope that helps mate

[john62]

From memory one side advances the timing and the otherside retards the timing.Make sure the vaccum hoses are on the correct side. The retard feature comes into play such as backing off going down a hill or anywhere where a closed throttle is utilised. It retards the ignition to minimise backfire and quite a few other burning processes.To check if your vacuum advance is working remove the hose from the vacuum advance unit,relace with a similar size hose,start the engine and physically suck on the hose and your motor should gain rpm.Go and photo copy the diagram for the correct fitment of the hoses at a library, hope that helps mate

Hello Thank you for the advice have a new vacuum advance on order.An added problem now is the rattle I was hearing on start up,now occurring more often.Before only on first start,some cold starts no rattle.Is a gem reco about 35000 klm Was using oil, may have been run low before I bought it.Have adjusted tappets added morey to oil,was using water so seal up in the radiator.Can a bearing problem be isolated as the cause without pulling the motor apart to check.any other possiblities, checked cam chain when doing tappets.Is it much of a hassle after engine removal to just replace bearings with sump removal or should whole engine be stripped down what would be cost effective.second hand mt $900 I fit.Or credit card overload with workshop full reco at $4000 drop in and pick up. Not really an option for an 89 hilux, Any advice appreacated Thank you

Edited April 16, 2011 by john62

[CONROD]

That rattle you are having on start up,are you sure that its not the timing chain?I had a 87 model hilux with a (Y) series petrol motor in it and the timing chain would rattle on start up both hot and cold UNTILL the oil pressure built up and pushed the chain tensioner out to take up the slack,anyway I got a new timing chain kit and put it in one saturday morning and the result was a beautiful smooth and extremly quiet engine.From memory the Y series motor has hydraulic lifters as its OHV not OHC so the valves run no clearance/valve lash.Next time you start your car,start it without using any throttle and listen at the front of the motor and if it is the timing chain you will be able to hear straight away if it is,as there will be a noticable/distinct change as the oil pressure moves the tensioner out against the chain.

PS; By the way a new timing chain for one of the engines are cheap as sh*t and thats for a good reputable brand (keep away from chinese/tiawanese rubbish as they have no regards for quality tolerance issues.

Hope that helps, cheers CONROD

[john62]

Thank you for your advice.I checked the the timing chain when i adusted the tappets seemed b tight.This rattle may happen on 2-3 startups then not occur for the next 2-3 times.Also at times the ute seems to travel uphill okay then my 4 sp auto goes back to second on a straight steep uphill run.An example on a hill near home on a good day over the top 60-65 klm, motor not happy its 40-45 klm Have same ute for spares have allready tranfered parts without change in problem. compression seems okay gem reco with about 40000 klms.Was overheating before radiater+ clutch fan change."Friend" changed inlet manifold gasket due to it sucking air, had external water leaks after repair which seemed to stop but it was still using water so I added seal up,now no leaks.The rattle appeared about the time the gasket was changed the lack of power was evident prior to gasket change.Drove old falcons for 40yrs these "late model" cars are a bit more difficult to sort out Thank you

[CONROD]

Yes I know what you mean John. The old Ford and Holdens with plugs and points, you used to be able to fix them with a bit of fence wire. Mention points to alot of folk these days and they would think you were swearing at them. Well mate i am sorry I havent been much help to you all the best and I hope you sort it out soon,

Hoo Roo CONROD

[john62]

Yes I know what you mean John. The old Ford and Holdens with plugs and points, you used to be able to fix them with a bit of fence wire. Mention points to alot of folk these days and they would think you were swearing at them. Well mate i am sorry I havent been much help to you all the best and I hope you sort it out soon,

Hoo Roo CONROD

Thank you conrod I rechecked the timing chain when the motor was cold, there was notable play on the the passenger side.My failing to notice before was maybe that I had a hot motor to adust tappets.I was unaware that oil pressure engages the cam chain guides to take up the slack.A local Japenese auto clinic can replace the chain with the cut and feed through method for $150-$200.This is unexpected from a gem reco with less than 40000klms The engine numbers match the reco receipt.Does continue to use more oil than any ford I have owned.Not burning clean plugs no rear smoke+no oil underneath was told it could be the incorrect oil was used during the running in period.Starting ute with tappet cover off made it b obivious.Also the lack of power could be the change from my 67xr 4.1 4 speed manual to a 2.4 4 speed automatic Not enjoying being an OB Also it appears to be major job to put in a timing kit with the 22r overhead cam,am concerned about the cam chain guides not being replaced with the method mentioned previously Thanks for your help.

Edited April 28, 2011 by john62

[CONROD]

Hi John,right now we have established you have a 22r in your ute.I understand now when you say you checked the valve clearance.When you have the rocker cover off can you shine a torch down beside the top cog on the camshaft and visually sight the chain guides.The method of winding a new timing chain on is fine as it is a simple fool proof way of replacing it,by the way if it is the original timing chain you will be able to see it clearly as a replacement chain has a joining link in it (similar to a push bike chain ) if it is a single row chain.If it has got a joining link just join the new chain to it and wind it through the way in which the engine turns over, pull the old chain out as you go (keeping weight on it) so as the hydraulic chain tensioner does not come out and drop into the sump.

Keep us informed;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

[john62]

Hello Conrod This cam chain should only have about 40000 klms on it.Have left rocker cover over night and checked cam chain this morning cold engine.Was tight and no rattle on startup.It appears that at times the tensioner sometimes holds pressure on the chain after motor is turned of,bit confusing.Should chain still be replaced or is it a problem with the tensioner Friend just checked my problem, his suggestion is access the pistion which activates the chain tensioner and remove for repair and maybe replace chain otherwise within a short period with only a new chain problem may return.The link connecter is the same as my lawnmower Checked chain price with repco.They have 2 chains 98 links or 96 cost $25 would this be a quality chain.Thank you

Edited April 29, 2011 by john62

[CONROD]

Good afternoon John.Pop on this web site mate as there is quite a bit of information on your particular problem

www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?...Timing-chain...22R

cheers,,,

CONROD

On one of the posts apparently there are 2 different length chains used

There were 2 versions of the 22R - the early tall deck and the later short deck.

The short deck has a slightly lower block than the tall deck.

The short deck uses a 2 less links in the timing chain.

Edited April 29, 2011 by CONROD

[01 VEY]

Hey guys

Sorry to break into a conversation so late. I changed the chain in a Mazda MA series engine some time back. I went to an industrial supplies warehouse and asked for 3/8" British Standard Timken (brand) roller chain. It turns out that most Japanese car makers use the imperial chain and sprockets in their engines. It may be the same with the 22RE as well. It should be both cheaper and turn out to be a better chain than anything available from Repco or other suppliers.

John I trust all goes well for you

[john62]

Hello Thank you for the advice recieved.Am still unable to find out why the cam chain tensioner some times holds pressure on chain when engine is turned of so no rattle on start up. Other times a hell of a racket till oil pressure builds up. Some times with rocker cover the variation in chain tension can be seen to be tight to a bit slack to very slack.My first hilux 22r so if I pull the coil wire out tll it builds up oil pressure could I delay replacement of the chain for another 5000 klms without causing damage and more costs in the future. Thank you John 62