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New Flywheel Bolts


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I am embarking on the adventure of changing the clutch in my Corolla Sportivo. I have ordered the Exedy TYK-7334HD ($349), new flywheel bolts ARP 203-2802($50) for the newly machined flywheel($40). I am not going to lighter flywheel due to the financial dept. and for drivability the old flywheel is fine.

My questions are;

Do I or can I change the rear main seal at the same time?

Are the flywheel bolts the right one's? According to another forum, they are the same as a 4AGE.

Do I loctite all the bolts regarding the flywheel, pressure plate and gearbox/engine?

What loctite to use?

Do I or need to replace the spigot bearing?

Many questions will hopefully be rewarded with photos of the aforementioned mission.

Here is my obligatory emoticon :unsure:

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1 - Always a good idea to change the rear main seal at the same time, saves you trouble changing it later...

2 - Unsure sorry...

3 - Only bolts that need loctite are the flywheel bolts... Pressure plate, gearbox and engine bolts don't need it...

4 - There is no spigot bearing in a FWD box, but make sure to replace the clutch release bearing and grease the input shaft and release fork in the correct contact points...

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Thanks Ben,

I was always under the impression that a spigot bearing was in an auto, but when the Exedy site says that a spigot bearing is not included in the kit then I questioned.

What is the best loctite to use? The release bearing is in the kit hopefully, and yep on greasing the splines and contact points.

:huh:

Edited by Lukeywunda
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As promised some happy snaps of an Easter spent wisely. Changed the gearshift bushes to bearings. Refilled the gearbox with Valvoline 75w-90w Duratrans. I cannot believe what a different car it is to drive. The standard clutch was heavy underfoot and not as soft as the Exedy clutch. The bearings in the gearshift cables make all the difference for more direct gear changes. Changing the gearbox oil alone has made the car start easier and drive as if there is an extra spring in its step.

The ARP 4AGE flywheel bolts are correct, they use a 1/2 inch socket not a 13mm, Americans.... :rolleyes:

The whole project took myself 9 or so hours with coffee breaks and thinking breaks and cost $520.

Note the standard pressure plate has 18 fingers and the Exedy has 12, but they are wider.

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Good work :)

What brand bearings did you use for the shifter cables??? They look 110% better than the old ones :/

The old ones had about 2mm of play in them. I just asked for skateboard bearings. I got them at CBC bearings when I bought the new rear main seal ($35 for the seal and bearings) as another thread here said to do, http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16460&st=0&p=251027&hl=+cable%20+bearings&fromsearch=1entry251027

I don't think the particular brand is a problem, just follow the instructions.

The shifting is more direct, but it does highlight the other rattles in the shifter now. I've been told that Brass bushings in the gearstick end fix them, I not sure yet.

But the stand out is the clutch, so soft and easy on the left leg now.

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Good work :)

What brand bearings did you use for the shifter cables??? They look 110% better than the old ones :/

The old ones had about 2mm of play in them. I just asked for skateboard bearings. I got them at CBC bearings when I bought the new rear main seal ($35 for the seal and bearings) as another thread here said to do, http://au.toyotaowne...=1

I don't think the particular brand is a problem, just follow the instructions.

The shifting is more direct, but it does highlight the other rattles in the shifter now. I've been told that Brass bushings in the gearstick end fix them, I not sure yet.

But the stand out is the clutch, so soft and easy on the left leg now.

I have brass bushings in the linkages and the shofter base in the Camry and it's still noisy, but I dont care, I'd rather the precise shift.

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