Car alarm self-installation

[SuiCid3]

Has anybody attempted it?

What are your thoughts?

I know I'm capable of doing it as long as I have wiring diagrams, etc..

But as it is, it's always the first step thats the scariest. :)

[CHA54]

if you're going to install an alarm, please do it properly. Don't do a dodgey job like 99% of the retail chains do.

You dont have to worry too much about the immobiliser side as your car wont start without the key (cant be hotwired due to the ECU immobiliser, they would have to do the HSV trick and take a new ECU, keybarrel and key to start the car if they didn't have one of your keys)

The proper way to install the alarm is to remove the dash pad and dash loom, pick a spot where you will place the alarm's module (somewhere you can't access without removing the dash pad), then unloom the dash loom in the right sections to install the alarm, re-loom so it all looks factory, and re-assemble the whole lot.

When it's finished, it should look factory with no visible wires or bulges in the loom showing it's been tampered with. You should not be able to see the control module at all.

I prefer to mount the siren in an inaccessible spot such as up inside the guard protected by the splash guard, when I do this, I dissasemble the actual siren and remote-mount the key-barrel in an inconsipcuous spot in the bay somewhere so you still have the ability to switch the siren off without dissasembling the car. Make sure that you seal the siren properly when you re-assemble it so it wont be affected by moisture (sikaflex is good for this).

You can put a starter cut in the car by intercepting the starter wire mid-way along the dash loom, just takes a bit to trace out the correct wire, you can also install an ignition cut the same way. Thirdly, you can also cut the feed to the fuel pump circuit in around the same area, but it pays to spread the cuts out along the loom.

Dont mount the siren in the engine bay, that takes all of 10 seconds to smash with a hammer. Also, dont get your power feeds or any immobiliser cuts in the loom behind the keybarrel, defeats the purpose of installing an alarm. Even the amateur joyriders would be able to get around that.

A proper DIY (or even professional) alarm install will take at least a full day, a useless DIY or "professional" job can take as little as a few hours.

Here's a couple of pics of the siren setup on the last "proper" alarm install I did:

http://www.rollamods.com/gallery/ae94/ae94_158.jpg

http://www.rollamods.com/gallery/ae94/ae94_157.jpg

http://www.rollamods.com/gallery/ae94/ae94_214.jpg

[SuiCid3]

That looks like some pretty hectic work..

The reason why I don't want to take it to a 'professional' is if they decided to take shortcuts..

The guy I was recommended off these forums only installs alarms that he sells..

You wouldn't happen to be feeling generous would you rollamods?

Generousity will be rewarded! :D

[CHA54]

If I told you what I charge you'd take it to a "professional"

[darkeh]

why get nothing in the loom from the keybarrel ?

[fad]

why get nothing in the loom from the keybarrel ? 

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I assume as this is the first place anyone would look, it would be easy to get to and cut said alarm's power.

There is always a case for a backup battery in the alarm unit. Never seen one however, I do notice they are starting to do data feeds to the siren now.

Ive got a question.

When installing an after market alarm unit. How do you control the doors locks. I notice the door integration relay, has control of all the doors etc. When you lock the car with the stock remote, you can not unlock inside with the lock/unlock switch.

Anyone know much about the stock alarm upgrade, whats in the kit? where they get connected to the loom. I assume it might replace the door integration relay or the door control receiver.

I was also reading up on the TVIP, this is a USA thing?

Edited October 27, 2005 by fad