Preparing to install Pioneer Android Auto Unit in ZRE152R

[cosmicr]

Hi all, first post, hopefully it's worthy!

I'm about to upgrade my 2007 Corolla Ascent Sedan's radio to the Pioneer AVH-X8750BT.



It's got all the usual stuff plus Android Auto which has got me very excited, and I've also got the Pioneer RCAVMIC.



I haven't done an install since about 2003, and after quite some research I realise I knew nothing back then, hopefully now I have learnt something.

I want to run my ideas past others to make sure I'm not going about it the wrong way and also to clarify some things.

My plan is as follows:

1. Upgrade/replace the head unit.

2. Upgrade/replace front split speakers.

3. Install amplifier/sub woofer combo.

Head Unit Upgrade
In addition to the unit, I have also bought on ebay a fascia kit, and a Corolla compatible wiring harness.

I note that my dash doesn't look like the one in the picture above, I have the three round knobs for the aircon and my radio has less buttons.

The pioneer manual shows the unit to be wired up like so:

This seems relatively simple, I plan on doing my joins with solder, not unlike the way shown in this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/Master-a-perfect-inline-wire-splice-everytime/?ALLSTEPS

I'll join the two harnesses outside of the car in my workroom, and then bring the finished harness out to connect.

I'm going to run the microphone up the A Pillar. It's ugly, and I'd rather have it hidden, but can't really see any better place.

For wiring the rear camera, I figure I'll connect the signal line to the reversing lights. The camera itself I think I'm going to install just above the number plate, but I'm not confident about drilling a hole in the boot lid.

Front Speaker Upgrade
The next step in my plan is to replace the front speakers. I am looking at getting either some Pioneer TS-D1730C or the Focal IS165TOY component speakers. The latter doesn't need any additional custom work, but is a bit more expensive.
or

I am considering putting some sound deadening in the doors at the same time. Is it worth it?

Amplifier and Sub Woofer Upgrade
Lastly, the one that I have been struggling to work out what to do is putting in a Sub. I want to be very discreet, and not lose any boot space in the car. I have considered the Stealthbox from JL, but it's rather pricey, and I'm also considering building a box myself.


There's also the option of under-seat subs, but I'm not sure they'd be any good.

I'll probably be getting a 5-channel amplifier - perhaps class D? The 5 channels being:
1-2 Front
3-4 Rear
5 Subwoofer

Looking for recommendations.

Questions
1. Will the steering wheel controls work with the new unit? The Pioneer manual doesn't make any mention of it, or connecting them. Will I need another harness? How do they work?

2. What's the best way to wire up the camera? Using the reversing lights? Do I just run the cable along the edge of the car under the carpet into the boot?

3. Where is the best place to put the camera? Has anyone else done this? Like I said I am reluctant to drill into my boot lid, but can't see any other place really.

4. When I get to installing the amplifier, I'm guessing it needs to be connected directly to the battery. Will I need to add an inline fuse or anything like that? Any tips for doing this? For example, wheres the best place to penetrate the firewall?

Anyway, thanks for reading, hope to get some answers!

I'll post pics of the install when I do it if anyone's interested (probably a couple of weeks away while I wait on parts to arrive).

[SteveAndBelle]

Hi Cosmicr and welcome to the forum.

BIG post... but first up, the head unit upgrade & harness. Why not just buy a full Toyota-to-Pioneer harness with Steering Wheel adaptor built in? Something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CTSTY001-2-TOYOTA-COROLLA-2001-2011-STEERING-WHEEL-STALK-CONTROL-INTERACE-LEAD-/381298277086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item58c725fade I put a Pioneer DAB+ Double-DIN unit in my ZRE152R a couple of years ago and the adaptor worked perfectly and without any soldering! I'm a true geek and back-in-the-day I used to install ALL my head units by chopping off the connectors and soldering everything but this way the head unit swap itself took less than 5 minutes (seriously!) and sounded perfect. It then took another few minutes to install the mic and another 20-30 minutes to install the DAB+ antenna. Hopefully this adaptor harness answers your first question at least.

Steve.

[SteveAndBelle]

2. Yes, the Reverse Camera should simply connect to the Reverse light circuit for power as there's no need to run it constantly... however some people like to have them powered up all the time and add a small switch so they can activate it at any time for whatever reason. Some people even add a front facing camera into the mix so they can switch between them but that's getting off topic. Once you've mounted it and have fed it power all you then need to do is run the signal cable up one side then connect it into the head unit. Easy but time consuming.

3. Tuck the camera somewhere discreet up near the boot release button/handle but try to find a place where you'll be drilling/screwing it into plastic and not metal. Not a big problem if you have to drill into metal but best to hit the holes & screws with some paint or rust prevention stuff from the inside once done... just to be on the safe side. Keep in mind that if you'll then need to pull the wiring through the rubber boot of the boot lid to wire it up to the reverse lights and feed it through the rest of the car.

4. Fuse everything and always put fuses as close to the power source as possible for best protection against catastrophic failures and silly mistakes. You may want to look at buying a nice power distribution fuse block from Jaycar or wherever as installing one now will save you a lot of hassle later on if you decide to install more Amps or whatever. Even something as simple as this: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Sight-%26-Sound-Car/Car-Audio-Hardware/Car-Hardware-Accessories/Two-Way-Gold-Fused-Power-Distribution-Block/p/SZ2070 allowing a nice thick but as-shot-as-possible 4GA feed direct from the positive terminal on the battery through two fuses then out to two thinner 8GA feeds to run to the Amp and/or active Sub. Remember, keep the fuses as close to the battery as possible!! Circuit breakers are also available however they usually only start at around 50A which may be a lot higher than the gear you're trying to protect therefore rendering them useless if something does go wrong. The thick 4GA feed should only need to be 20-50cm long as you should be able ot find a nice position to mount the fuse/distribution block somewhere nearby in the engine bay. Find an existing cable run through the firewall and simply pierce the rubber boot and run the cable through but be aware this can be a painful exercise as the cables usually have a rubbery coating and you may need to lube the cable up so it doesn't grip as you pull it through. Oh... and obviously only connect the Power Cable to the battery once everything else has already been connected or without the fuses installed. It doesn't take long for a short piece of thick cable to melt and start a serious fire if shorted out to earth!

Amp, Speaker & Sub selection is totally up to you but don't discount a decent under-seat Sub as some of them can be pretty decent! Here's a review I did on a few about 5 years ago: It does all depend on how much you've got to spend versus your expectations. I'm an old duck now and although I used to build my own large Subs powered by crazy high current Amps etc. I'm way past all that these days and find the stock systems 'good enough'. I also don't drive anywhere near as much as I used to so it's pointless blowing loads of cash on something I'm not going to get a lot of use out of. That money now gets funnelled into mortgages & home Hifi instead ;)

Hope this helps and please feel free to ask more questions.

[cosmicr]

Thanks for the reply SteveAndBelle.

1. Thanks that's perfect for what I want. Does it also include the reverse signal wire? (violet/white in the diagram above) and the park brake wire? (light green above). I don't think the original Corolla harness has those.

2. So I can power the camera in parallel on the same cable as the rear lights? Or do I need to run additional power through one side of the car also? If so, should the power and output wires be on different sides to avoid interference?

3. The ZRE152R Sedan doesn't have a release button or handle. The boot only opens using the lever inside, or by key. There's a small inset space directly above the number plate between each of the number plate lamps. That's where I'll have to drill. It's all plastic though. I think.

4. Yeah I'm not looking for anything over the top, I'll have to read some reviews of underseat subs. I'm also old now too haha.

[SteveAndBelle]

1. Not sure as different cars & different adaptors may have different harnesses. I just grounded the Pioneers park brake wire as I was lazy plus I knew I'd never use the head unit to play videos but as you may/may not be aware it is in fact ILLEGAL to play videos on a head unit while the car is moving and I assume it's therefore against the law not to connect that wire to the hand brake so keep that in mind when installing yours. You may have to get two feeds from your reverse light circuit, one to power the camera and the other to send up the side of the car with the camera signal cable to connect to the violet/white wire so the head unit knows when you've put it in reverse. You could also just find the live reverse wire direct from the gearbox however you'll be running a signal wire from the camera to the head unit anyway so it's easy enough to run another small wire at the same time.

2. You'll be right to power the camera direct from the reverse light circuit as they don't consume much power at all. Interesting to know if the camera comes with its own fuse though because if it doesn't it might be a good idea to put one in. You shouldn't have to and it's probably just me being OTT but it wont hurt! The reverse lights are on the lighting fuse anyway so if something did go wrong with the camera it will simply blow the main lighting fuse. No biggie.

3. Sounds like a good place for the camera, especially if you only need to drill/screw into plastic.

4. Sorry but you can't be very 'old' if you're contemplating some of these upgrades ;)

PS. No problem running the reverse camera output signal cable alongside other power wires as it should be a shielded cable plus it's not exactly a hardcore hi-def video signal afterall so a bit of interference wont affect it much ;)

[cosmicr]

Thanks again for the reply. Just browsing ebay I've discovered you can actually get aftermarket cameras that slot right into the number plate light socket, so no drilling required. I think I might sell the pioneer camera and get one of those.

Oh yeah, I'm 34 years young, take that as you will :)

[SteveAndBelle]

Hmm, mounting the camera is probably the easiest part of the install, running the cables is the frustrating part ;) You call but personally I'd stick with the Pioneer camera.

Not as old as me... but not as 'young' as I thought :p I'd be fitting the head unit and possibly a small Sub then re-evaluate the need to go to town with replacement speakers and treat them as a separate upgrade later on if reuqired. I noticed a big improvement after replacing the head unit even just with the stock speakers but each to their own as no-one hears the same things the same way as anyone one else plus I don't exactly crank my system these days anyway ;)