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02 hilux 3.0 5le diesel wont get up to speed


leshby

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Hello I have a ln167r toyota hilux 3.0 5le turbo diesel. Has just been rebuilt with recon turbo new bottom  and brand new head and new injection pump. Everythinh is fixed and new and i cannot get it over 100km/ph. Would always get over it before the motor blew. Now as you take off it feels like someone has hooked a semi behind it so it is pulling it. Just seams gutless. I don't know whats going on. Its driving me crazy

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Not good to flog new motors--run them in, 1000km to 10,000km.

change filters, inc the one in the tank-if old fuel beware water and thus algae blocking fuel system  Poison is avail.   Did you reconn the injectors, or replace them-if not consider it.

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injector timing?   what oil you running, motor still tight from rebuild, dragging brake/bad wheel alignment, dirty airfilter?    There shoud be a co**** filter in tank, its good practice to have them, but other good things left off to save money, so......  Is it auto?   whats your max loaded rpm?  what are you carrying and are you driving uphill/headwind.

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Injection timing  checked rotated engine etc a dozen times. All says correct. Clean k&n air filter new fuel filter near new tank  have to check tank filter. New oil 15 w 40.  1st gear 3500 =30km 2nd gear 3500=50km 3rd gear 3500=80km 4th gear 3500=100 5th gear 3000=100kms max. Idle is about 850rpm. With canopy etc max 300kg . Basic Highway flattish no head wind.IMG_4205.thumb.JPG.05ab9a35850d2b868239c

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Have you run it in propperly over at least 1000km, constantly varying speed and gradually increasing it and loads?     READ the Owners Manual for more advice!  I'm sure it's online.  Running in will complete in abt 10000km but most of it can be done in the 1st 1000 or so.    If you don't run it in it WILL FALL appart rapidly..   I assume a poor ring seal (do blowby test) due to not run in, It may be too late to recover now, as you may have damaged the pistons/rings. by driving too hard too soon.   IMPORTANT: Check sump oil level now and for the next few weeks EVERY DAY to see if it's going down.   Check often on longer distances.   Keep full.  If it's light, them improves, you got away with some of it,  If it just gets worse, you  have to do the rebuild again.  The motor will run hotter than normal until it's sorted.  Drive moderately.     Ignorance, the great destroyer; Willfull ignorance, the great tragedy.

Edited by Manxman
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We did do the first 1000km running in at various speeds and loads.  There is no blowby doesn't use oil. The motor hasn't been running hot just normal temperature.   ?

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I'm running dry.  Anything get hotspots with a few km of driving - diff, brakes, tailshaft bearings, wheel bearings, tyres, gearbox?    It should be able to clear 4000rpm under load.   Crushed/blocked exhaust?    dragging brake/gearbox/diff?    Jack a rear wheel and rock it, feel free play, 15deg acceptable, rotate wheel-should be modest drag, no noises or jerky stop.   wheel weight more problem than drag.    wobble all wheels hard  9-3 o'clock and 6-12 o'clock by hand, any movement is bad.

Check center tailshaft brg rubber by push pull sideways-should not move much.   When were diff/g'box last serviced and what oil was used?    I'm suspicious-have fuel pump tested for correct delivery pressure and flow, make sure injector lines clear, test injectors for blockages,, test injector coils for resistance and wiring for damages.   Does motor run smooth, or shake?     Does it have a variable mass flywheel?     Something is tight, or fuel supply/timing is wrong.    CHECK cam timing!!!!  1 tooth out would do it.

Edited by Manxman
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Take the alt, a/c and PS belts off the motor.  Feel crank pulley hard  for looseness and brief run motor-observe pulley.   wobble can be bent crankshaft or bad harmonic ballancer, could lead to timing error - renew as required.  can use hand to see if pulley at all loose.   ur at that mileage/age.

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