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Vibration through body (not steering wheel) under acceleration


Wynterplace

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Hi everyone,

i picked up a second hand 2008 Kluger KXR FWD with 165k on the clock on Friday. When I road tested it prior to buying I didn’t notice this issue but now that I’ve had a couple of days with it the issue is pretty noticeable. 

When accelerating while already in motion, predominantly when travelling at 80+kph there is a significant vibration from the front what is felt through the whole body. 

Normally i would have suspected wheel balance/alignment but the vibration isn’t felt through the steering wheel. 

Has anyone else experienced this? Is it engine mounts? Something in the drive shafts?

trying to get an idea of how many $$$ I’m up for before I head into a mechanic. 

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2 hours ago, campbeam said:

I would be inclined to check the cv joints in the drive shafts for excessive wear/movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kuV7xyRETzU

 

Cv boots are in good condition, no play in the wheels at all when grabbing at 3/9 o’clock and rocking, or when grabbing at 12/6 o’clock and doing the same. 

Private sale, sold with roadworthy after the engine torque rod bush was replaced. 

I took it for another run this morning and the vibration can be felt in the steering wheel, but not as much as it’s felt through the body. I’ll try a wheel balance and alignment first and go from there. 

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1 hour ago, Wynterplace said:

I’ll try a wheel balance and alignment first and go from there. 

Agree. Get it done ASAP. Make sure that you mention the vibration because they may notice/suggest the possible cause.

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Just had a closer look at the axles and cv joints. The passenger side is solid, no movement at either cv. But the drives side has a one or two mm movement at the inner cv joint, enough that you can hear it clunking as you move it.

Is there an acceptable amount of movement at the inner cv? There is no clicking when I do a lock to lock turning test in forward or reverse. 

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On 9/9/2018 at 12:14 PM, Wynterplace said:

the engine torque rod bush was replaced

Really just guessing but I would be inclined to have a much closer look at the engine mounts.

https://www.samarins.com/glossary/engine-mount.html

Copied the following from an internet search:

The way your mechanic will test your engine mounts is by putting the car in drive or reverse, planting his foot on the brake and giving the car some gas.

If a mount is broken, an observer looking in the engine compartment will actually see the engine lift up and twist. With a broken mount, we've seen an engine move as much as a foot.

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  • 5 years later...
On 9/10/2018 at 5:33 PM, Wynterplace said:

Balance and alignment done, drive shafts and cv joints all checked and in good order, engine and trans mounts also appear to be in good order... still have a vibration. 

Hi,

This is an old post, but this has happened to me as well. 2009 Kruger. Happens especially when going up hit, accelerating clears it. What did you find?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've noticed the same issue after changing the front shocks from OEM to KYB - and while I don't think the shocks are to blame, it could be that there's been an issue which the old shocks covered up by not working at all after 230,000kms. I've also changed the CV joints in mine, replaced the front suspension bushings; hoping that a wheel alignment and new tyres helps this - will post back in the morning the result. 

Adam,  

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23 hours ago, Adam_S said:

I've noticed the same issue after changing the front shocks from OEM to KYB - and while I don't think the shocks are to blame, it could be that there's been an issue which the old shocks covered up by not working at all after 230,000kms. I've also changed the CV joints in mine, replaced the front suspension bushings; hoping that a wheel alignment and new tyres helps this - will post back in the morning the result. 

Adam,  

Well, new tyres, a proper wheel balance seems to have done about 90% of the trick - the car now drives like it once did. The only thing is that a wheel bearing was called out as "completely stuffed" and as it is so bad, the only way to fix due to wear on the knuckle is to replace the whole thing. Quoted $600 for the repair and no parts for this until mid next week. Once this is replaced I will update if back to 100% or still more problems. I was thinking that the aftermarket CV shafts could be to blame - very glad this turned out not to be the case. 

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