ZZE123 2ZZGE V-manage guide

[Trivial]

I am putting this guide together as a bit of a compilation of my experiences with the Greddy (TRUST) V-manage piggyback ECU on my 2ZZGE Corolla Sportivo (ZZE123).

Some reasons I am putting pen to paper on this is:

1. There are a tonne of incomplete guides online, many half-completed, some with expired links/pictures/attachments,
2. There are a tonne of misconceptions and 'I heard that...' claims,
3. I'm hectic,
4. Writing this out once instead of twice a week via PMs is easier,

As a preamble to this guide I wont attempt to explore all aspects of the V-Manage, as it's a 'universal' product. For non-2zz readers out there: what I think applies in the 2zz world may not apply to your K20. I will keep the focus on the V-Manage 's operation on a 2zz platform (specifically the Aus delivered ZZE123) - however some of it may carry-over into other models. YMMV.

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Background

What is a v-manage

Figure 1 - Greddy V-Manage  - Picture courtesy TRUST website

The v-manage is a universal piggyback ECU that can control Variable Valve Timing (VVT) and Lift (VVL) systems. Being universal, it can be adapted to control everything from Toyota VVT(L)I, to Honda VTEC, Subaru ACVS, Mitsubishi MIVEC. It is able to do so by changing jumpers on the main board, configuring the tuning software, and wiring to the specific vehicle.

In the case of a 2zz install, the V-manage is designed to control both the VVT and VVL ('Lift') systems.

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Hardware

The V-Manage  can control between 1 (e.g. B18 Vtec) and 4 (e.g. dual AVCS) solenoids. In a 2zz installation, it can be wired to control the VVT and/or the VVL.

For a 2zz install, only the single 18 pin plug is required 'Connector A'. Additionally, a 'Dual Adapter' is used. The adapters look like little black boxes that are filled with potting compound. Single solenoid adapters have two wires (red and green). Dual adapters have four (2 red, 2 green). I assume that these boxes are essentially resistor boxes to trick the factory ECUs into thinking they are still connected to a factory solenoid. I measured one with a multimeter and it came up as 9 or 15 ohms or some such. I would assume that these boxes can just be replaced with a suitably rated resistor (I haven't tested this, but would almost bet money on it).

Figure 2 - V-Manage pin harness (picture courtesy Nengun performance)

Figure 3 - V-Manage  dual adapter (picture courtesy Nengun performance)

 

The V-Manage  main board is removable by removing the bolts on the end plates. Once the bolts are removed, the faceplate falls is removable, and the board slides out. There isn't much to say about the board itself, other than to note the jumpers. Jumper IDs and Pin positions are printed alongside each one.

Figure 4 - V-Manage  Main board

Jumpers are set by moving the pin jumper either:

• Between pins 1 and 2,
• Between pins 2 and 3,
• All pins open (not connected).

Jumper settings for the 2zz can be found on page 30 of the V-Manage  manual.

The V-Manage  main board also houses a set of 4 dip switches that are used to control map selection (covered in the tuning section)

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Wiring

The 2zz only utilises the single 18-pin 'Connector A' connector. Wiring for the 1ZZ and 2ZZ is pretty much identical, with the additional of the VVL wiring for the 2ZZ.

For a 2ZZ, the wiring diagram can be found on page 30 of the V-Manage  manual. Translated version (Thanks Google translate) attached.

Summary of V-Manage loom wiring colours, with respect to the 2ZZ:

• Black - Ground - Power ground
• Red - Power - Battery +12V
• Grey - Throttle Signal - TPS sensor
• White - Airflow Signal 1 Input - MAF signal
• Grey/White - Crank Angle 1 Input - Tees into the NE+ signal from the crank angle sensor
• Black/White - Crank Angle 1 Ground - Tees into the NE- signal from the crank angle sensor
• Blue/Red - Solenoid 1 Input - Fed by the factory ECU's OCV+ signal that usually goes to the VVT Solenoid
• Blue/Green - Solenoid 1 Output - V-Manage  output to the VVT Solenoid
• Orange/Red - Solenoid 2 Input - Fed by the factory ECU's OVL+ Signal that usually goes to the Lift solenoid
• Orange/Green - Solenoid 2 Output - V-Manage  output to the Lift Solenoid.
• Black/Green - Solenoid Ground - Shared Ground for VVT and VVL solenoids
• Blue/White - Cam Angle 1 input - Accepts the G1 signal from them Cam Angle Sensor
• Blue/Grey - Cam Angle 1 Output - Sends a modified G1 signal to the factory ECU
• Orange/Grey - Cam Angle 2 Output - Sends a fake 'OSW' signal to the factory ECU

Big highlights on wiring nomenclature:

• Solenoid 1: VVT Solenoid
• Solenoid 2: VVL Solenoid
• Cam Angle 1: Cam angle sensor
• Cam Angle 2: VVL Oil Pressure Switch
• Crank Angle 1: Crank trigger

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Software

The V-Manage  uses the same tuning software as the Greddy E-manage. The software is easy to find online - I used version 2.3.2 for both my V-Manage  and E-Manage.

My experience was that I couldn't get windows 7 to connect to the V-Manage . Seemed that the driver required was an 'XP' thing. I (like many others) got around this by using a virtual machine and a windows XP installation. I've seen at least one post online that people have made it work on Windows 7 or later. If you can get it working on Win 7 or later, fantastic. If not, consider a virtual machine.

With the car 'ON', the V-Manage  will be powered, and a message will appear in the software asking about connection. "YES" through it.

10-second run through of the software:

• Left side will show the tuning maps available
• Maps will show up in the big part of the GUI
• Key buttons up top:

Import Data And Export Data are used to copy map data from or to the V-manage ECU. 'Compare' compares the map and config data in the software with the data stored on the v-manage. 

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Operation

VVT

The V-Manage operates the VVT by:

1. Taking the VVT signal from the factory ECU
2. Uses the INTAKE DIP switches to decide whether to use the factory ECU's VVT signal, or either/both of the programmed VVT maps
3. Actuates the VVT solenoid as per 2)
4. Receives the Cam Angle, and adjusts the VVT in closed loop
5. Outputs a 'fake' cam angle to the factory ECU to convince it that it's operating as it should <- Presumption warning: I havent scoped this, but I am making a bold presumption that it's what it's doing.

VVL

The V-Manage operates the VVL by:

• Accepting the VVL signal from the factory ECU.
• Uses the EXHAUST DIP switch to decide whether to use the factory ECU's VVL signal, or the programmed VVTL map.
• Actuates the VVL solenoid as per 2)
• Upon factory lift-activation, simulates a 'fake' oil pressure switch signal (ground -> Open circuit) back to the stock ECU.

FYI: When the V-manage is using the 'factory settings', it is not completely bypassing the V-manage. There is an intermediate stage of signal processing that goes on - whether it's passive or not, I'm not 100% sure. No matter how the main board jumpers or dip switches are configured, there is zero continuity between the solenoid inputs and outputs of the V-manage.

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Tuning

Tuning starts off with parameter setting. These settings will dictate the maps that are made available. I expect that this also controls the way the factory VVT and VVL signals are handled back to the factory ECU (in conjunction with the jumpers), although I didn't scope or test this.

The only tab that needs attention for a V-Manage installation is the 'Vehicle' tab. Make sure the engine '2ZZ-GE' is selected. This will give you 3 maps to play with back in the main screen.

• IN Valve Timing MAP: This is the main VVT tuning map
• IN Valve Timing Adjustment: This is a secondary 'adjustment' map on top of the primary VVT tuning map
• VVTL Map: Map for switching Lift ON/OFF.

Understanding these maps also requires an understanding of how the DIP Switches on the V-manage work. There are 4 switches, INTAKE MAIN, INTAKE SUB, EXHAUST MAIN, and EXHAUST SUB. This is misleading (again, the V-Manage  is universal). The 'intake' and 'exhaust' nomenclature refers to setups where the V-Manage  would control dual VVT (intake and exhaust).

In the 2ZZ's case, 'INTAKE' refers to the VVT control on the intake cam, and 'EXHAUST' refers to the VVL control.

• The first dip switch 'switches on' the IN Valve Timing MAP.
• The second dip switch 'switches on' the IN Valve Timing Adjustment map.
• The third dip switch 'switches on' the VVTL MAP.

How to use the DIP switches:

• If both INTAKE MAIN and INTAKE SUB are 'OFF', then the V-Manage  will operate the VVT solenoid as per the factory ECU's output signal.
• If the INTAKE MAIN is 'ON', and INTAKE SUB is 'OFF', then the V-Manage  will operate the VVT solenoid according to the IN Valve Timing MAP.
• If the INTAKE MAIN is 'ON', and INTAKE SUB is 'ON', then the V-Manage  will operate the VVT solenoid according to the IN Valve Timing MAP plus the IN Valve Timing Adjustment MAP (i.e. it will add them both together).
• If the INTAKE MAIN is 'OFF' and the INTAKE SUB is 'ON', then the V-Manage  does something whacky. It operates as per the factory ECU's output signal, until the map operates in a non-zero cell in the IN Valve Timing Adjustment map. At this point, it takes the corresponding cell value from the In Valve Timing MAP and uses it in conjunction with the IN Valve Timing Adjustment cell as the output. Note: I haven't thoroughly tested this, I don't think it's 'recommended' operation. Try at your own risk.
• If the EXHAUST MAIN is 'ON', then the lift will be controlled according to the VVTL MAP.
• If the EXHAUST MAIN is 'OFF', then the lift will be controlled according to the Factory ECU's VVL signal.
• The EXHAUST SUB dip switch doesn't do anything for the 2zz (in my experience)

Tuning the IN Valve Timing MAP

• The values in this map relate to the amount of intake cam advance (in degrees). The values in this map go from 0 to 43.

Tuning the IN Valve Timing Adjustment

• The values in this map relate to the amount of intake cam advance (in degrees) in addition to the primary cam advance map. The values in this map go from 0 to 43. NOTE: I am not sure if the V-Manage  is smart enough not to let the addition of the two intake advance maps exceed 43 degrees (and over advancing the cam). I didn't try it.

Tuning the VVTL MAP

• 'ON' means Lift. 'OFF' means no lift.

General

Horizontal axis is RPM

Vertical axis should be Airflow Hot Wire (V). TPS% can be used, but is suboptimal. Also, means you will have to rely on your TPS working and being calibrated correctly. Has downsides, no benefit. Tune with MAF voltage.

Pressing 'Change Scale' will unlock the top and side cells so that you can alter the RPM and MAF voltages. ECU will interpolate between adjacent cells in the MAP.

You can use the 'Sample Map' tool, with the 'IN Valve Timing' option selected to build a map based on the stock map. Start it up, drive around, and copy paste the values. I don't have values for the stock map, but the factory intake cam advance for a WOT pull looks like this:

In words, intake cam advances just shy of 30 degrees up until rpm or so, levels out to about 15 degrees until lift transition, and then ramps to maximum 43 degrees of intake cam advance. Levels out toward 25 degrees of intake cam advance by redline.

There is a common misconception floating around that if you reduce the lift point then you will necessarily take a performance hit. You've probably heard lots of 'going lower than 5800 will just make you lose power' stuff, right?

The issue that people run into is that they don't tune their VVT (or their ignition advance, but that's a different topic) to match the new lift point. Taking a look at the factory intake advance curve, you can see why that's such an issue. As a general tip: if you're trying to bring lift on earlier, alter the VVT map to suit.

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Logging

Clicking the data log button will bring up the E-Manage Ultimate Data Logging window . Don't get this confused with 'logging' mentioned in the parameters tabs. That's to do with onboard data logging for the E-Manage ultimate. This screen will take real-time logs, and let you review and save them. Window is pretty intuitive - take special note of the 'Input Data Setup' button, that lets you toggle on/off the items being logged.

A couple of notes on logging nomenclature:

• Engine Speed (rpm): Engine speed RPM, easy
• Throttle Position (%): TPS signal. Again, must be calibrated to work right.
• IN Valve Timing ECU Value: This is the 'commanded' VVT angle from that the factory ECU is sending the V-Manage .
• IN Valve Timing MAP Value: This is the current 'map' value in the V-Manage .
• IN Valve Timing Measured Value: This is the actual intake advance angle, as measured by the V-Manage  via the cam angle sensor.
• VVTL-i: This is the ON/OFF Lift being executed by the V-Manage .

Logging is easy. Click 'Start' to start logging, and 'Stop' to stop logging. Use the magnifying glasses to change the time division. Selecting the data points on the right will alter the y-axis on the log to suit the correct unit of measure.

You can save logs in either the 'lg2' format, or txt format. Just open the txt files in excel if you want to do some analysis.

Common Issues:

MANY people have issues with V-Manage s installed on 2ZZs. I cant tell how many of these problems are installation or tuning issues, but I can vouch for the several installations I have seen myself.

Common problem 1: V-Manage wont handle lift correctly:

In some installations, the V-Manage  can control the VVT fine, but if you're also trying to control lift, it runs into a million issues as soon as you go past the stock 'lift' point (6200rpm, on Aussie corollas). I have diagnosed this in one case to the V-Manage  not correctly handling the VVL's OSW signal back to the factory ECU. I was able to rectify it by wiring in a relay to switch from ground to open circuit on factory lift transition. I.e. when the factory ECU activates lift, it activates the relay and simulates the factory oil pressure switch opening at lift transition. I have a tweaked version of the factory wiring diagram to demonstrate. 

Anecdotally there is some evidence that 'older' V-manages seem to present this issue and 'newer' revision ones don't. For instance, mine was a 'rev C' and didnt suffer this problem. A friend had a 'rev A' board and did. If one bought into this theory, it could perhaps be explained by different firmware versions, so perhaps a firmware reflash would resolve it? I can only speculate - putting it here as an FYI.

Common problem 2: Jerky misfiring at random (this is DIFFERENT to the above)

Feels like hitting boost cut. Whole car misfires for a quarter second, then goes back to normal. Sometimes at cruise, sometimes at idle, sometimes while pulling out of your driveway. Sometimes twice a minute, sometimes once a day.

I had this issue on my installation, and saw it in person in another installation. Interestingly, it only occurred when both the VVT and VVL were being controlled by the V-Manage . I found that if (n)either and not both were being controlled, the issue went away. I also attempted to tune the V-Manage  perfectly to factory settings, ruling out a tuning issue. My best assumption is that it's down to processing speed or poor noise filtering in the V-Manage  giving poor trigger signals to the factory ECU - I have no better idea. I ultimately got around the issue by leaving the V-Manage  to control only the VVT, and used a spare output on my E-manage Ultimate to control the lift. This resolved the problem permanently.

Common misconception: 'If you're having issues, then dw, the Factory ECU has to learn'.

The V-manage, as a piggyback ECU, should be giving the factory ECU what it wants to see. The factory ECU will learn things like fuel trims. The factory ECU doesn't (unless someone can present me with proof?) adaptively learn how to filter out noise from a faulty VR signal, or learn how to feel better about the OSW signal that the V-manage is providing. If your V-manage is having issues and they seem to come and go, it is probably poor wiring or the V-manage itself is legitimately playing up.

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Recommendation:

Like all mods, this comes down to cost, time, and how much you're willing to do yourself.

If you like the idea of wiring and tuning yourself, and you can get your head around getting lift control to work, I would say that $300-$400 is worth the money. Once you get used to squeezing lift out at 5500rpm, you wont be able to go back to a stock setup.

On the other hand, I would say that getting a V-manage strictly for VVT tuning is not worth the money, unless you're getting it for dirt cheap. Typical price for a second hand one is ~$300-$400, and that's before trying to find/pay someone to wire it in. That's also before realising that the person before you didn't use to control lift, because every second one on the market doesn't work properly or has issues. Consider, that you will essentially be paying $500+ at that point to make an extra kW or two, and for your throttle tip-in to feel a bit punchier. Save a bit more, and you could have a full standalone (which would be my advice, over going for a V-manage). If you like paying for placebo, I will tell you that your car is really fast, and I will only charge $100.

If you are sadistic enough to want to install a V-Manage, I would encourage building a patch harness for the factory ECU, and wiring the V-Manage loom into it on your coffee table with the heater on while watching Neighbours.

If you HAVE to wire it into the car directly, then I would recommend pulling the engine loom through into the engine bay, and wiring whatever you can there. With the exception of the red wire for +12V power, you should be able to complete all wiring without having to turn yourself inside out under the glove box.

Thanks for reading, hope this helps folks! Happy to answer questions and/or make additions as we all learn more about these piggyback ECUs together.

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Appendix A - Page 30 of the vmanage manual, translated

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Appendix B - Translated diagram, with 'relay mod' to handle the oil pressure switch issue

 

 

Edited May 17, 2020 by Trivial

[Squalled]

On 5/18/2020 at 2:18 AM, Trivial said:

3. I'm hectic,

This reason alone, nothing else was needed.