Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I know Redline oils been talked about so much but just conflicting stories here regarding their Shockproof gearoils.. Some say its not suitable for synchromesh gearboxes but many Subaru owners use the Lightweight/Heavyweight Shockproof gearoils in their WRXs, STIs, Liberties etc etc.. I know a few guys here with the Stivo are using the Superlightweight Shockproof, how is it and does anyone know anything about the Lightweight stuff?

Posted

There's a guy on Toymods with a Soarer that has fused the synchros because of Redline lightweight shockproof. MT90 would be the better choise for synchromesh gearboxs from what I've heard and the shockproof is better for gears and LSDs.

Posted (edited)

There's a guy on Toymods with a Soarer that has fused the synchros because of Redline lightweight shockproof. MT90 would be the better choise for synchromesh gearboxs from what I've heard and the shockproof is better for gears and LSDs.

Damn thats nasty!! :o Maybe the soarer had synchro issues to start with?? But it doesn't affect Subie owners which is wierd.. most of them say they have vastly improved shifting, maybe because Subaru gearboxes are terrible to shift to start with. I think it might affect some gearboxes and not others, but i guess always better to be safe than sorry ;)

Edited by ZEEROLLA
Posted

been running redline super lightweight shockproof gear oil for just about 2 years now, and its good stuff.

highly recommend it :)


Posted

been running redline super lightweight shockproof gear oil for just about 2 years now, and its good stuff.

highly recommend it :)

im in the same boat its great stuff.

Posted

There's a guy on Toymods with a Soarer that has fused the synchros because of Redline lightweight shockproof. MT90 would be the better choise for synchromesh gearboxs from what I've heard and the shockproof is better for gears and LSDs.

Damn thats nasty!! :o Maybe the soarer had synchro issues to start with?? But it doesn't affect Subie owners which is wierd.. most of them say they have vastly improved shifting, maybe because Subaru gearboxes are terrible to shift to start with. I think it might affect some gearboxes and not others, but i guess always better to be safe than sorry ;)

nope, the gearbox was fine before he used it.

Their technical specs clearly recommend their MTL (manual transmission liquid) series for synchromesh gearboxes. The lightweight shockproof is for dogboxes and diffs... 2nd line states 'not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions'

see here...http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...amp;subcatID=20

EDIT: weiwei and Corey... ahh, I see the superlightweight, not the lightweight. But still, they don't recommend for synchro-type transmissions as it can be 'slippery' (their words)

Posted

There's a guy on Toymods with a Soarer that has fused the synchros because of Redline lightweight shockproof. MT90 would be the better choise for synchromesh gearboxs from what I've heard and the shockproof is better for gears and LSDs.

Damn thats nasty!! :o Maybe the soarer had synchro issues to start with?? But it doesn't affect Subie owners which is wierd.. most of them say they have vastly improved shifting, maybe because Subaru gearboxes are terrible to shift to start with. I think it might affect some gearboxes and not others, but i guess always better to be safe than sorry ;)

nope, the gearbox was fine before he used it.

Their technical specs clearly recommend their MTL (manual transmission liquid) series for synchromesh gearboxes. The lightweight shockproof is for dogboxes and diffs... 2nd line states 'not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions'

see here...http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...amp;subcatID=20

EDIT: weiwei and Corey... ahh, I see the superlightweight, not the lightweight. But still, they don't recommend for synchro-type transmissions as it can be 'slippery' (their words)

Yeh i saw that on their website to Dylan, but i contacted Redline toda and they say its ok to use the Lightweight shockproof and wouldn't casue anyharm whatsoever!? :blink: Now i'm really confused... They did also say the Superlightweight shockproof and MT90 would be better if i am after extra smooth shifts during cold and hot weather. I also spoke to Redline resellers and all reckon the Lightweight Shockproof is good stuff. This really sucks.. albeit doing some research on the net revealed Redline oils to be damn good and well worth the money, period. So MT90 better for synchros but not as good in protecting gears compared to Shockproof.. hmm. I also read that Sulphur is the killer for synchros in some synthetic gearoils, but i guess Redline oils have none of that stuff.

I have come to the conclusion that how long your gearbox is gonna last being in top condition greatly depends on how you use it :P abuse it and no matter what oil you use you will end up with sh!t.. so i think i am gonna drop MT90 into my gearbox being 75W90 GL4 which is what my owner's manual recommends. better stick with what they recommend i suppose for warranty reasons ;)

Posted

HI there...

I work very very closely with the redline group here in perth,Having owned a 3sgte'd ae86 (im sorry for that one ive kept the 20v but??) the lightweight shockproof gear oil is the one to go,having it used in all our motorkhana cars,the response & shift feel is great,also the load rating being higher,itll help on the full car trips (i dread them myself)

owning a 1zzfe zze122r the first mod was gear box oil.then the intake & exhaust mods .ive never worried about the gearbox coz im confident in the oil being tested many other cars im my p o v is very reliable

stay safe ..drive like a toyota......kanjo style B) B)

Posted (edited)

HI there...

I work very very closely with the redline group here in perth,Having owned a 3sgte'd ae86 (im sorry for that one ive kept the 20v but??) the lightweight shockproof gear oil is the one to go,having it used in all our motorkhana cars,the response & shift feel is great,also the load rating being higher,itll help on the full car trips (i dread them myself)

owning a 1zzfe zze122r the first mod was gear box oil.then the intake & exhaust mods .ive never worried about the gearbox coz im confident in the oil being tested many other cars im my p o v is very reliable

stay safe ..drive like a toyota......kanjo style B) B)

Hi bozurolla, thanks for that, i have actually put Lightweight Shockproof into my gearbox! :D and its been working great so far except when the car is cold 2nd gear synchros don't seem to catch up and i can crunch it quite easily even shifting very slowly. If i rev it up a bit in 1st it usually goes in better or when the car has been driven for while it usualyy gets better. All other gears shift like knife into butter :) I also have some MT90 for the next time i change my tranny oil (which is very soon after some spirited driving), would just like to feel the difference.

Edited by ZEEROLLA
Posted

This if 4 your new car ?

If so, u better get that looked at under warranty ... no point mucking round with gear oil if it may be a manufacturers issue

Posted

This if 4 your new car ?

If so, u better get that looked at under warranty ... no point mucking round with gear oil if it may be a manufacturers issue

There's no problem with the box mate, it's those "normal" cold box crunches, had them in the Stivo too in 3rd gear when u shift slowly.. when the day hots up above 20degrees or so it has no problems. Thats why i think MT90 provides better cold box shifting than Shockproof, but Shockproof does protect the gears heaps more. ;)

Posted

i thought ppl have mentioned that mineral based oil should be used first, unless they were talking bout engine oil.

can the same be said with gearbox oil? run what the manufacturer has put in then after a while change to the redline oil?

was the 2nd gear shift an issue before the oil change?

Posted (edited)

i thought ppl have mentioned that mineral based oil should be used first, unless they were talking bout engine oil.

can the same be said with gearbox oil? run what the manufacturer has put in then after a while change to the redline oil?

was the 2nd gear shift an issue before the oil change?

yeh its on/off.. some mornings its there some mornings its not. I am very sure its cold mornings causing it, once its fully warmed up like it shifts great. Like today for example its not a problem ;)

Edited by ZEEROLLA
Posted

i wonder what normal morning temps are like in your location. cause as some1 said before, taking into account the oil's operating temp, it may be a manufacturer issue. any similar encounters from other 3mps users?

Posted

i wonder what normal morning temps are like in your location. cause as some1 said before, taking into account the oil's operating temp, it may be a manufacturer issue. any similar encounters from other 3mps users?

Haven't asked others but i know Subarus crunch gears heaps.. actually to be honest out of all the cars i have owned only the multicone sychro boxes have crunched so much.. my old WRX and Civic never crunched. In my Stivo it crunched and it had double-cone synchros, in the MPS 3 tripple cone synchros 1st to 3rd but its like a "slow crunch" when shifting at like 2000rpm from 1st into 2nd. Not like the Stivo crunching when shifting fast at high revs. Shifting fast is not a problem in the MPS 3 like above 3000rpm its ok. These couple of days its great because it has warmed up so much. When i crunched its always in the first 10minutes of driving and the car's ambient temp gauage was showing less than 10degress. After 10minutes of driving its all good. I contacted Redline about this and they said it can happen but its not doing any harm and it will probably go away in summer :blink: They did recommend i try Superlightweight Shockproof or MT90 for better shift feel. But new gearbox oil (MT90) will go in at 5000kms anyway so thats only about a month away, hopefully will be better with that not that the current shft feel is bad, its damn good and shifts very well just the annoying odd "metal to metal" crunchy feel when car is cold.

Posted

tried rev matching into the gear when shifting up? should help with the crunching.

hopefully like u said it'll just settle somehow. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

    3. 0

      Tow bar

    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership