Jump to content

Rolla Boy

Regular Member
  • Posts

    1,785
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Rolla Boy

  1. Hiace boxes have gotta be the easiest ones out there but there is always some steps to go about when replacing any clutch...

    First things first, loosen the gearbox filler plug and then loosen the drain plug and drain the oil... Always loosen the filler plug first with any diff, gearbox or transfer... If you drain the oil out first and cannot undo the filler you'll be stuffed...

    Before removing the tail shaft you should always mark the rear uni to the diff so that you put it back in the same position... Failure to do this can result in a harsh vibration as the tail shaft is improperley balanced...

    Disconnect the battery and remove the starter motor, slave cylinder, exhaust bracket (good idea to spray with WD40 or similar as the bolts will be rusty and easy to snap) and then also disconnect your shifter cables... Make sure you remember which ones were which, mark if necessary...

    While supporting the gearbox from underneath, remove the rearer mount and crossbar... Remove the lower bellhousing bolts, then lower the gearbox to gain access to the upper bellhousing bolts and remove those also... Remember the wiring bracket at the top as you will need to refit when refitting the gearbox...

    Then it's time to remove the gearbox so lower it down as much as it will go, then pull it backwards off the splines and remove it...

    Remove the old pressure plate, clutch plate, release bearing, spigot bearing and discard... Remove the flywheel and get it machined flat...

    Reinstall the flywheel, using locktite on the bolts and torque in a star pattern...

    Install all your new parts, grease the input shaft and release fork... Line up the clutch plate in the centre and torque all bolts in a star pattern...

    Refit all previously removed parts in reverse order...

    Fill up gearbox oil and you're done...

    (If I've forgotten anything I'm half asleep so it's not my fault lol)

  2. Reverse Sensors are a good parking assist option but the camera is a lot better...

    Only 2 sensors are fitted to the outside bumper corners leaving a massive blindspot in the middle, which the camera fills up...

    For the genuine Reverse Camera you will need a head unit with a screen in it, so that will be another extra cost if you don't have one as standard...

  3. Best of calling around all your local dealers and getting in contact with their pre delivery departments...

    Tubs are removed sometimes when alloy trays are fitted...

    Also could try companies that supply and fit aftermarket alloy trays as they may keep the tubs also...

  4. All cars will be marked and the locations of the cameras will all be listed on the RTA website, got nothing to worry about...

    Radar's are the ones to look out for...

    laugh.gif love this **** , Ben you missed the point .. These are MOBILE units .. They aint staying in the 1 spot .. Danger all around ..

    As is Sydney traffic sucks , cant imagine what will happen now with these bastards in use ..

    My SAFE speeding days would be over sad.gif

    So keep an eye on the website and you'll know where they are ;)

  5. Well before getting a new hose made up you've gotta be sure whats leaking and go from there...

    Get some degreaser and clean your whole engine and around the power steering areas...

    Then with help from a friend, start the turn and turn the wheel lock to lock... You'll be able to see where the leak is coming from and go from there...

    On a side note, we use Enzed mobile service at work and they're always great... Not sure about prices though - never seen the figures...

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership