CHA54

...but having owned a GZE before, 44gze know's that with going the supercharging route, he will have a lot more useable power, and torque right through the range instead of just top end. Supercharged rolla's are great. I'd definately go the charged route instead of the expensive NA route.

would import duty need to be taken into account on a 7K purchase on top of the $300-400 shipping? The airfreight limit for duty-free imports is for goods valued @ $250 or less, and close to $1K for sea-freight.

Are you aware that a stock 4age/4agze headgasket can hold 20psi and more? 20V gasket is different to the 16V gasket. I'd personally not bother taking the head off if you're only going to run low boost, just tune for the boost you plan to run with a full aftermarket ECU, not piggyback. EMS, Microtech, haltech, autronic, wolf, link are all capable of running it. There's a stock AE101 20V turbo with TD04L, FMIC and microtech over at twincam.org forums, TRD16 owns and built it. still at 10.5:1 compression too. http://www.twincam.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12579

it's cheaper to buy a 4agze frontcut and install that if you want to go supercharged.

150fwkw or more can be quite easily used in a FWD, I've got a couple of mates, one has 160 the other 170 and they dont have any issues. Just have to learn to modulate the throttle to control wheelspin. Requires a bit more skill than a low powered car where you can floor it anytime.

cool, so they shouldn't be silly enough to call a locator ring a "CV" ;) My tyre shops are well aware of what a locator ring is :D

ok... go to a mechanic and say that, cause tyre shop workers aren't the best in the world when it comes to knowledge. so what does CV stand for?? ...constant velocity?? ;) http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&h...%3Aen&q=auto+CV

hehehe, I was pretty sure you had NFI what a CV was... Silva's right, the thing you're talking about is the locator ring. if you took out the CV it would look more like this:

check Steve from DBA's comments in the brake thread over at the MRT forums. for a street driven and occasional track car the DS2500's are great.

Do you know what a CV is? if so... how did you remove "some" of your CV's :P

just wondering if the TWM kits angle the shifter to the passeger side of an Aus car since they're designed for the US market? If you have a look at the aus standard shifter you will see it is angled towards the driver.

Extreme custom engineering in Brisbane can also mod your stock shifter for a short throw. It's pretty easy to do with the right tools.

Send Warwick an email like I told you. The difference in time comes down to how much the dealer wants to pay for the part. 6 weeks is the cheapest option, 3 weeks is more expensive.

St Mary's Specialised Brake and Clutch in Sydney do them.

Ferodo DS2500's are quite a bit more than $60 a set, the Ferodo Exel's are not that great, built for economy cars hynundai excel's etc ;)... Not a performance pad at all. I really like the DS2500's, they're a great pad and easy on the discs.

it's simple. Search, do a little research, if you can't find the info then ask questions afterwoods. It's not that hard.

...instead of using your brain and doing a little research before posting... you SPAM expecting to be spoonfed... There's still a little bit of life left in my spoon from the twinspam forums, so here you go... can you figure out what a RSM is from this? http://images.google.com.au/images?hl=en&q=RSM&sa=N&tab=wi no? I'll bet a search for RSM on almost any performance car forum will reveal what a RSM is aswell... as for the spammer allegation... here's some of what I see every afternoon on here from you:

FFS you spam a lot... ever heard of google?

Oldmac

I know it's basically impossible to get lower than 25K

The dayshift guys are pretty good. I know a few of the mechanics from there. They know about the TSB on the clutch etc.

a black one in Bris was sold new on Tuesday for $25K driveaway. Was at the drags last night :P

it's there to straighten the airflow for the MAF sensor. Most MAF sensor equipped vehicles have an arrangement like that, the BOSCH MAF sensors have that built into the MAF housing itself.

you're better off using "wax and grease" remover or prepwash to clean the parts with first as traditional degreaser will leave residue on the plastic.

no need to get your knickers in a knot... just having a bit of fun hence the " ;) " ...now where's my boo-hoo pic?