CHA54

Mod your current car if you like it. The suspension setup craps all over the newer corolla's. The A series block is nice and strong too if you want to go forced induction. Pauter and Argo do stronger rods, and there's a huge variety of forged pistons to choose from aswell. If you have 10K, this is how I'd spend it... Engine crane $250 Good socket set $200 Good screwdriver set $50 Good ringspanner set $100 Chain for crane $5 Remove the motor yourself, it's pretty easy even for a first-timer. Purchase some stronger rods with ARP bolts $1200 Purchase some oversize forged pistons with rings $700 (aim for 8.5:1 or 9:1) TD04 WRX turbo $250-300 for a good secondhand one Evo or import VR4 cooler from importers $200 (better than the ebay crap) Bosch BOV $40 7MGTE injectors $100 rebuild kit for the 7A $300 (incl all gaskets and seals) Bearing kit $200 Steampipe turbo manifold $400 Dump pipe and exhaust $600-1K Cooler pipes $400 Labour to machine/rebuild motor with new parts $1K Oil feed/return lines and fittings $130 Emanage with MAP sensor, ignition harness and injector harness $500-600 seconhand + $200 to tune OR Microtech/Haltech/Adaptronic etc $900-1500 + $500 to fit and tune HD clutch $250-400 (recommend a 6 puck sprung center ceramic disc with uprated original pressure plate, the toyota pressure plates are hard to beat) Secondhand TRD LSD $400 from importers, $500-600 to fit, possibly less if you take the box and LSD to a gearbox shop. Shim the oilpump while the motor's out for a bit more pressure With this setup, you will have a basically indestructible street motor which will put out something like 170kw ATW with moderate boost... Will leave sportivo drivers thinking "WTF was that???", and it will be a RELIABLE daily driver too. With the leftover money, invest in some Koni's and springs too, then it's another $500 or so for a decent brake setup. If you're after extra rice points, factor in some extra $$$ for a multitude of guages, I'd recommend oil pressure, water temp and boost. If you want info on seriously modding the earlier motor's, then www.twincam.org and www.toymods.org.au are much better sources of information. Johhny, kingmick and Terry O'Bernie have all done some serious builds on the 7a at toymods from memory.

the cars other than marks are using either AE101 or AE111 "superstrut" calipers, the ones on marks car are different and were a set a mate had laying around in his pile of various toyota bits collected from toyota frontcuts over the years. We didn't have another set of superstruts handy to compare how this set are different. The pads looked similar to an ST165 GT4 pad, but my friend confirmed he has never had an ST165 GT4 frontcut so that's not what they are.

If I told you what I charge you'd take it to a "professional"

if you're going to install an alarm, please do it properly. Don't do a dodgey job like 99% of the retail chains do. You dont have to worry too much about the immobiliser side as your car wont start without the key (cant be hotwired due to the ECU immobiliser, they would have to do the HSV trick and take a new ECU, keybarrel and key to start the car if they didn't have one of your keys) The proper way to install the alarm is to remove the dash pad and dash loom, pick a spot where you will place the alarm's module (somewhere you can't access without removing the dash pad), then unloom the dash loom in the right sections to install the alarm, re-loom so it all looks factory, and re-assemble the whole lot. When it's finished, it should look factory with no visible wires or bulges in the loom showing it's been tampered with. You should not be able to see the control module at all. I prefer to mount the siren in an inaccessible spot such as up inside the guard protected by the splash guard, when I do this, I dissasemble the actual siren and remote-mount the key-barrel in an inconsipcuous spot in the bay somewhere so you still have the ability to switch the siren off without dissasembling the car. Make sure that you seal the siren properly when you re-assemble it so it wont be affected by moisture (sikaflex is good for this). You can put a starter cut in the car by intercepting the starter wire mid-way along the dash loom, just takes a bit to trace out the correct wire, you can also install an ignition cut the same way. Thirdly, you can also cut the feed to the fuel pump circuit in around the same area, but it pays to spread the cuts out along the loom. Dont mount the siren in the engine bay, that takes all of 10 seconds to smash with a hammer. Also, dont get your power feeds or any immobiliser cuts in the loom behind the keybarrel, defeats the purpose of installing an alarm. Even the amateur joyriders would be able to get around that. A proper DIY (or even professional) alarm install will take at least a full day, a useless DIY or "professional" job can take as little as a few hours. Here's a couple of pics of the siren setup on the last "proper" alarm install I did: http://www.rollamods.com/gallery/ae94/ae94_158.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/gallery/ae94/ae94_157.jpg http://www.rollamods.com/gallery/ae94/ae94_214.jpg

because in shootout mode it makes no real difference if it's run in 3rd or 4th. 3rd gear keeps the speed within the limits of the guidelines set out for "shootout" runs. FWIW, my car made 1kw more in 4th gear than it did in 3rd. Here's a graph from your mates at Mercury to show the difference between 3rd, 4th and 5th on a stock 200sx

The toyota ECU's can be remapped if you are smart enough. A guy in japan has done it successfully on many different toyota ecu's now (early and late), it involves desoldering the PROM, dissasembling the code, and writing your own custom software to read/write/modify the whole lot. As for the intake air temp sensor resistor mod, all this does is make the ECU use different maps it already has stored. Some people do the mod on the THA line, some do it on the THW line depending on what correction map you want to use. The ignition on the 1ZZ can be successfully changed quite easily with an emanage. Here's one page for one of the guys in Japan that has done some toyota ecu dissasembly: http://kaele.com/~kashima/car/index-e.html I'll find the other more comprehensive page later.

so was it paint? If so, I'd hate to see what your clearcoat is like after they cut the white off it.

...someone had to do all the work, can't rely on the helpers that sit/stand/lie around all day :P http://www.rollamods.com/gallery/map/index.htm

yes you have to bleed the brakes afterwoods.

the proper way to paint the calipers is to remove them from the car, dissasemble, clean then paint. It's just that most people aren't equipped or skilled enough to do this so they do the dodgey way of painting the caliper while on the car. Also, if you use a wire wheel to clean the surface rust and brake dust off, the paint gets a much better key to the metal. Here's a pic of a set I did on the weekend:

did you wait the full 4 hours while they did the springs? We do them in a bit under an hour for all 4 including the dismantling and reassembling of the rear interior which is a PIA. And we dont have FULL workshop facilities available, if we had a hoist and a proper wall mounted spring compressor like proper workshops it would take about 20 mins less.

A more realistic explanation of the cost for the shop would be $200 for the springs (they're less than $100/pair at trade price new from kings) and $220 for their labour to fit them... What they put on the receipt to show the customer is another story.

then why dont you post the iso's up? I have space to host them.

much better Mr newbie mod :P

I wish someone would change the title of this thread.... There is no "recall" on the idle "problem"

dyno time at $110 an hour is reasonable. A 2wd dyno dynamics unit costs $60/hr to run.

is the cost of the SAFC + dyno time at $110/hr worth it to you for a couple of KW?

timing, compression ratio and RPM is where you make your power with NA. Also, disregard the wiring instructions that come with the emanage, they are wrong. The correct instructions are on their "corrections" page which is in japanese.

Weigh your stock rims and tyres, then weigh the new set aswell. ps, a true high performance 18" low profile tyre costs a LOT and wears very quickly. The michellin's on my WRX were over $400ea, they were fairly grippy, but not the top of the range. Dont even think about the cheaper falken, nankang's etc etc if you want grip.

...why do the WRC cars use massive diameter rims with really low profile tyres on the tarmac stages? ...why do touring cars also use large diameter wheels with small profile tyres? If a larger sidewall equaled more grip, do you think the top classes in motorsport would use a larger sidewalled tyre ;) The reason most "normal" people go for a smaller diameter wheel is the performance rubber is cheaper in the smaller diameters with larger sidewalls.

use a 1/2" drive socket, anything else and you are likely to screw it up.

that golf did have one of the small car size fire extinguishers... it couldn't put out the fire. I saw the thread about the fire many months back. Worst thing you can do with an engine bay fire like that is open the bonnet, just makes it go up faster.

,,,

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_seat.html ...pretty much 200,000yen for a pair with rails not including shipping or import duty etc. Warwick from Bowater Toyota in NZ could probably do a much better deal than the RRP though. ps, you'll probably find that the TRD seats are NOT ADR approved, just like the Bride seats aren't ADR approved, even though they are FIA approved for race use etc.

a pair will set you back about $4K without rails.