Kenshin X

i'll do that today, it sounds more like the third/last video... but its not as loud... i'll get a video and PM u later today if thats ok =) thanks

Morning guys and girls, Im on a quest to change the colours on the consoles and dash in my sportivo... So far for the centre console, it seems to be straight forward... I've did a bit of reading on the topics already up for this but i feel its not really clear enough. So i ask again How can you change the colours on the dash? Is it even possible? Do you need to take off the steering wheel first? Any precautions? I read that the colour of the back of the dash itself is red, not the bulbs, not sure if its true or not... If anyone has done it and was successful, please post up any pix and instructions! ;) cheers

Awesome! maybe i should try it out on my next oil change, but that wont be until like another 5000 kms as i just did mine. I just stuck to the old numbers just in case something happens. but when i DO change the viscosity, is it necessary to flush the engine with engine flush? also i heard one of my mates uses this lucas brand as an oil additive... he says it protects the engine from the moment u cold start your engine right to the normal operating temperatures... knowing that the engine wear is at its peak when u cold start, is this neccessary?

i am using semi syn now... mobil 10w40 not sure what they were using before i bought it...

hope not... otherwise that will be an expensive repair

damn, thats why i bought my house first before buying the car :D

might try that too! my sportivos making the diesel engine sound as well! maybe its the alternator though???

hehe i only knew about the finance thing becuz my mum told me about a guy buying a 120,000 M3 only to get it taken off him the next week becuz of the bad bank credits with the old owner! Talk about OUCH...

depends how u use your sportivo... i do the "occasional pumping" and I use Mobil super 10W40 Semi... found its very smooth on revving 50% thrash 50% grandpa driving :D

hey peoples, just reading thru the topics from oldest to most recent. One thing that caught my eye was the "diesel like noise" coming from the engine bay upon idle. My uncle listened to it and he said that its normal becuz its the fuel injector and ALL EFI cars have that. However thru the months of driving the stivo i noticed one thing: My car has a voltmeter that was put in by the previous owner and it always showed 14V when the car is cold and ~13.2 to 13.5V when the car was warm. Lately, its showing around 13.5 when cold and 12.2 to 12.5 when warm. also, lately sometimes when i turn on my HIDs, the right one just doesnt work and i need to high beam when the lights are off to get them on. Only after doing this, the HID light turns on. also sometimes, when decellerating, the left HID bulb flickers too. these problems could be becuz a range of things like a) battery going flat. (unlikely becuz new) B) alternator playing up (maybe bearings are stuffed causing the drop in voltage) c) belt (original on 85,000 kms 7 years) d) faulty voltmeter (unlikely) thanks for your input guys! :)

yeah lol i'm just reading through the forums from the oldest post to the most recent to see whats interesting... :D (btw i just revived 3 more lol) i might be repeating some topic thats already on here so forgive me guys if it happens!

i think a bigger battery would help rather than getting high output alternator cuz its so expensive. All alternator does is just regulates the batterys voltage (charges when its low and stops when its too high) you should be sitting in around 12.5V ~ 13.5V New cars these days, the alternator SHOULD be powerful enough to handle alot of electrical things. (i've run a computer, 2 amps and 2 subs once and aircon and the voltmeter in my car stayed somewhere in the low 12Vs to 12.5V... Just dont be idle for too long or use it for too long when the engine is off :P most of the time u (or rather your passenger) will use it when the car is moving anyways. so charge shouldn't be a problem. ;)

Guys, reviving an old post... Not sure if you know already but the things u should do BEFORE you even contact the seller. 1) Check with Vicroads, the seller should be posting at least the Rego/VIN of the car on the ad. check if its written off/has encumberance (finance) on it. 2) If you want to cover your a$$ from the bank reclaiming back the car becuz of bad debts from the previous owner, i believe there is some paper u buy from Vicroads protecting you from the bank to reclaim the car. The catch is that: you must puchase (~$20) this from Vicroads approx 24 hours before the FULL AMOUNT is paid to the seller. Otherwise this piece of paper is void... As far as I know, I never heard its "illegal" buying a car with finance on it. I'm sure alot of them are out there selling with them. Hope this clarifies things for people =) P.S. I did ALOT of research for my sportivo before I bought it... but now i'm sorta doubting whether its been in an accident or not becuz of the crooked panels in the front in reference to the bonnet. My uncle looked on the inside frames, but he said that they were all straight... (maybe bad quality control from SA?) Regards all, and happy lifting :D

omg! I used my car as a wedding car for me and and miss's, but when i took the ribbons off there was light scratching from the bonnet all the way up to the door sill! argh! stratch X took it out though! :D scared the crappers out of me though :\

PM replied. Sportivo's use the same brake pads as the Japanese built Runx. Ford's and Holden's are a much heavier vehicle than the Corolla and over work their brakes much easier than we do. Cracking occurs on all slotted rotors; same applied for cross drilled (I know you didn't mention but just in case people think they are better off with it). Skip upgrading the rear pads, they run vastly cooler than the fronts, so save some money there. PM read! thanks superdave! :D

Yeah yeah, this was probably discussed thousands of times on these forums. However i think as time goes on, quality of the parts do change... right? Anyways, im thinking of getting these TRD pads for the front and rear. FYI Fronts are: 04491-ZT300 Rears are: 04492-ZT300 I found them at 100 bucks for the sets together on ebay from sydneycarparts which is quite reasonably cheap compared to the other brands (bendix, EBCs etc.) One problem though: On the website listed here http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_brakepad-black.html the note says that its only for the Jap built ZZE123... As far as I know, The Australian delivered Sportivos were only assembled in South Africa! So before kicking myself in the butt, can these parts fit on our Aussie Sportivos or i'm better off with others? Also i've been juggling between RDAs and DBAs rotors and its really getting to me cuz i'm spending endless hours trying to research on these but there is never enough information on the internet! What i've been reading though are mixed opinions, some are from other forums like Ford, Holden etc. But i'm not sure these are realible sources as the quality can be different depending on the make of the car etc... I've only heard from this forum that the RDA are more likely to crack more than the DBAs... My driving style isn't really punishing on the brakes either, so i might be getting whichever is the cheaper one. After for your opinions guys :) Thanks!

yeah i can get the clutch part for like ~350 and i'll wait til my uncle has time to replace it for me... hope the clutch holds out to then! B)

btw, first place i rang for exedy clutch and flywheel machined ABS... $1430 bucks! omfgbbqwithmayo!!! not going there for the clutch now... i thought getting the brakes upgraded and changed there for $680 were reasonable so i rang there for clutch replacement thinking they'd do a good price for me too. wasn't the case <_<

u got no idea eviltwin... no idea :P i bought my sportivo last august with 91% pads. now i got like 25% of them left, sometimes squel like crazy

while in 1st? when u say "bump" how big is the bump?

i reckon my butt would still hurt even if i changed to softer suspension on sydney roads... they are that bad... <_< lol

gotta thank ZEEROLLA for starting it! :P

Thanks for all you help guys! I'll be shopping around for clutch and brakes now =

I can't help you on the overall recommendations, but I will say this... DON'T get a button clutch unless you really only intend on racing your car or drive it hard on a daily level. Button clutches are basically either engaged or disengaged... no in-between. ahhh i c, thanks for the info! be getting the tyk7334 HD then :) and it is necessary to get the other parts too like flywheels etc? cheers

yeah mate it's the acc belt which does alternator, water pump, powersteering, aircon etc. probably time for a change at 7 years old :) yup, my uncle said that its slightly cracked so its time for a change ;) but i was thinking of using an aftermarket one like bocsh or something cuz 1) toyota costs arm and a leg 2) aftermarket ones maybe the "better" alternative... whats ur opinion? cheers bro