Kiz_

Hey you're the other half of Mr Cessnapilot himself! I thought I recognised your name :P

I can't remember how much I paid back then, it was a year or 2 ago. Here's the link for the new ones. Now is a good time to buy with the Aussie dollar being so good! :D http://www.nonstoptuning.com/pKitToyYaris.htm The one I got in particular: NST09010 10% Underdrive Crank Pulley 06-09 Toyota Yaris 1.5 You might need to get a shorter accessory belt too for the underdrive pulley, I just got Toyota to fit a new belt during a service but the original one was fine for the 3 months I still had it on. With the currect exchange rate, you're looking at about AUD$155 shipped :D Nice save with misspelling my name :P

Thanks Mick! I turn it into a game then. See if you can accelerate enough to make it to the next set of lights before they go red I did try to beat the lights, but the 1.3 just doesn't have enough acceleration You need an NST crank pulley :) And an intake... and an exhaust... and maybe a new car :P Then you'll have enough acceleration!

Strange :S Did it say anything? EDIT: Wait just realised... should be right now :)

New ACRE brake pads FTW :D They make a helluva difference on the Yaris. Anyway, you're welcome to add me a Facebook too. http://www.facebook.com/iscream.

Well that's one way to change a light bulb...

Whoa.... that's sure gonna stand out!

Probably not a good idea to run the power straight through the switch anyway. Use a relay. The switch will then draw a tiny current when on to activate the relay. Run a decent gauge wire from the batt, with an inline fuse, to the relay and then splice it into the head unit's ACC wire. This way your stereo will turn on and off with the car as normal AND on with the switch when the car is off. What DJKOR said is correct, starting the engine may draw too much power through the system and cause the stereo to reset - I know mine does. This effect might not happen if you run your power direct from the battery but again if the battery voltage drops below the threshold of the head unit during cranking then your only other option is to use a massive capacitor or a 2nd battery... Is it really worth it?

Nebo Run? :D

food is always good there :) also, thanks to Kieren for the stubby Yaris aerial :) :D You're welcome!

Woohoo, awesome run :) Thanks Guys! I really had to work hard on the way down... and not knowing what's on the other side of every single crest... my heart skipped many many beats! Massive adrenaline rush =D It's good to get to know some more of you guys, and girl, too.

I'll come if it's a Nebo run :) Gives me a chance to test my new brake pads!

I'm currently working for ASUS in Brisbane repairing Laptops, PDAs, LCD monitors, and Desktop PCs. I can help with most home/small business IT problems after hours including repairs, builds/rebuilds and basic training for PCs.

Yep, let the brake fluid drain into a container when you disconnect the lines. Once the calipers are reinstalled you'll have to bleed your brakes.

Lol damn, I finally found the link to 'The Moderating Team' after a while, and PM'd SILVABULLIT..... oh well. Just concerned if linking to my 350Z/370Z forum would be... conflicting? We shall see.....

Hell yeah, that was fun :) Next time I might have to push harder. If I hadn't've removed my spare tyre and boot trim I woulda been slow, but without that extra junk the Yaris was a little ripper :D Some nice cars last night and it was good to meet some new faces. That red Aurion looks a treat! Looking forward to the next Nebo run, even if it means only 6 hours sleep again.... :|

Who's the best mod to PM regarding if a specific link would be OK to put in my sig? Not sure if it would be classed as a conflict of interest...

I had considered it... but haven't had the excess money to waste :P

Do you guys use UHFs on cruises? Thought I'd check in case I should bring mine...

Knowing my luck, no one else will hear it... crackling only happens under load which means you have to be driving for it to happen. I'm sensitive to hearing these kinds of noises... anything minor - brake squeaks, pinging, rattles, turbo spooling... if I ask the missus to listen she just goes 'what, I can't hear anything' :P

Thanks Evo. It's not much of a trip to get there, I'm used to driving from Sunnybank to Kenmore all the time. I don't want the 300 to grab too much attention, especially not from the Fuzz... So far I've only ever been roadside-RBT'd in it. I've been tailed plenty of times but never stopped. Fingers crossed..... Hope to see you all soon, I need some more friends :P

Alright, sounds fair :) I get brake fade just hammering around town.... <_< Time to invest in slotted rotors + pads me thinks! What about doing it in reverse? That way the descent is much longer, less strain on your brakes.

Hey all, thought I'd check to see if the noise I'm getting from my engine is normal or not. It began a week after I had my first service with Toyota. They car had already 18000+km. Anything other than light throttle induces the enging to rattle lightly. It's not pinging, or if it is then it's certainly not the destructive, engine-damaging pinging that I would worry about. At WOT you can't hear it over the normal engine and exhaust moise but driving around at mid throttle is verrrrry annoying. I'd describe it as a small popcorn machine on steroids, or the noise a shower or pins would make. Just a light, very fast crackling. At the time when the noise started I had done no modifications bar changing the taillights and the service by Toyota was only a minor one - oil change, wheel rotation and a basic checking over. I also get the annoying lifter tick at idle for the last 6 months or so, despite changing the engine oil. I use either 10W30 or 15W30, whichever one the FSM says to use. So, is it normal? What could I do to reduce the noise? Thanks.

Will anyone be taking it easy tonight on Nebo? I've never done it in the Yaris and not only is it slow but the tyres aren't that great so I won't be pushing hard if I come. Oh and I'll be coming to the meet regardless to say Hi and meet you guys, so if you see some random wandering around like a lost sheep, that's me :P

You could try taking it to an electronics repair shop. They can at least tell you if it's cheaper to repair or replace. I had a $25 eBay amp die on me and you'd think it would never be worth repairing that... I repaired it myself for about $10. 1 of the transistors for the 3rd channel was shorting itself. I replaced the complementary transisitor pair, applied new mica insulators and thermal grease to all the transistors (they use the case as a heatsink) and TADA it works :) Still going strong so far...