barryogen

heh, it must suck to get cars like the Stivo in Aus, here in NZ, when I insured my RunX(Stivo without leather or badges), they had to insure it as a standard Corolla GL... ahh, yay obscure imported cars.

Lift, performance, sleeper, induction noise... thats about it for me, other than that it's a fairly average car <_<

egad, I think you are right... by the way, expect more cars to get "bump bonnets" in the coming years, it seems to be the latest thing to save people who are idiots when they walk in front of cars.

doubt it will ever come out with a factory turbo... especially now that the Super 2000 has been announced, they will be concentrating on powerful 2 litre engines, so theres no point in bringing out a turbo just for the street. as for 4WD, its a possibility for the same reason... but we'll have to wait and see i guess. The corolla RunX(basically a sportivo) comes in 4wd, but only with the 1zzfe... although I've read that a 2zzge swap sould be reletivly painless. http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/toyota/corolla_runx/

I've found that a quick tap on the gas makes it slide right in... just enough to take it to ~ what revs it should be doing in first at ~ that speed... so, rev matching it.

my local toyota dealer recommended Fully Synthetic Pennsoil 5-50($70NZD for 5L), I've been using it for ~2 months and the starts seem to be "harder", like it is struggling more, previous it had 5-30 no-name non-synthetic(importer put it in). I'll probably go with some 0-30 next time, thin is better right I know I know, not necessarily, but I'm in the deep south(Dunedin NZ, -10C winter mornings, 32C summer afternoons), so I figure the thinner when cold the better?

heh, power FC and alarm with remote locking would be cheaper... gets rid of all the problems.

on my runx, the default for lift to kick in is 6000 RPM, redline is ~8300(havent actually checked it, but its about there), and lift disengages at 5700 RPM. I've never had a problem with it "dropping out of lift" when I'm "driving it like I stole it", but during normal driving, I hardly ever hit lift... maybe I'm getting old.

I'll quote myself a few posts up... "2" would keep the exhaust gas speed up higher(when compared to 2.25"), so the car should be a bit better on gas, and if 2" is bigger than stock, then yeah, it should be better if you are doing other mods that will mean you need more exhaust flow."

2" would keep the exhaust gas speed up higher(when compared to 2.25"), so the car should be a bit better on gas, and if 2" is bigger than stock, then yeah, it should be better if you are doing other mods that will mean you need more exhaust flow.

I've got a CAI, but I would have just done the sports panel... Toyota do a lot of research into how the intakes interact with the helmholtz effect, and well, they have a sh|te load more cash to throw at research than I do, so I trust them for intake stuff... However, not sure if this is relevant or not, I would take pretty much anything off from the filter outwards, and pipe it from the front, so basically making it a CAI with the stock helmholtz effect, best of both worlds so to speak.

Can I ask what difference it makes to the stopping distance etc? I play on the track a little, and have found that dropping from ~200kms to 60(end of striaght into hairpin) a few times, the brakes tend to soften a little, and it looked like the pads were getting a bit hot, so swapped them for TRD blue, which are good, but still after 6 or so laps they're softening, the liquid is already rated to ~800C which should be plenty, and fluid temp 'only' seems to be getting to ~400 :o , so I'm guessing it is probably the disks getting a bit too hot.

I'm on the wrong side of the ditch, but what parts do you need? a bit more info than "parts needed" would be good. engine parts? body panels? If you have the cash, even toyota may have new panels, I know toyota NZ still has ke30 panels new(I know this isn't a KE30, it was just an example of old car panels availible new)

well it seems that our laws are a little "better" than yours with regards to modification... heh, not quite a Stivo, it's a RunX, but it's still a zze123 other parts are on the way before this thing gets anywhere near this shore anyway, I'm just doing full TRD under body. stabaliser http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_stabilizer.html suspension brace http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_brace.html custom rear strut tower brace and some better brakes, but they are way expensive, and may have to wait until after I get the SC... I'll just have to keep the speed down a bit... heh <insert Tui ad here>

the 1/4 inch would make a difference to the speed at which the air would pass through the flow metre,so the fueling would change a bit. Having a pipe 1/4 of an inch larger would mean that the air flowing down the pipe would be slower, so air going passed the flow metre would be slower, and the engine would put less gas into the mix. Now, a 3" pipe has 19% more area to flow air, and from what I understand of the Toyota ECUs, they ahve ~20% of adjustability for what they get from sensors, so, the ECU should be able to figure it out as long as the engine is running at exactly that point, however... at stock, NA engines normally krun a bit rich(for safety), so leaning it out a bit should help atleast a small bit. I hope that this explains a bit of this.

heh, well it would sound rather odd and kinda loud without any... As for aftermarket ones that I suspect you mean, it depends on the design, me, I'll be sticking with Toyota ones, either the factory ones or the TRD ones.

Header design make very very little difference to noise, or emmisions, so header is one thing that can be designed well to begin with. The stock header is designed to give you slightly better bottom end performance, to the detrement of top end. The TRD one will give you a better mid and high end, but the bottom end will suffer slightly, although it still makes bugger all difference. Any other one, I can't say that I have seen dyno plots etc, but those two, I have seen, I only know of one place that does better job(on appearence) than the stock and TRD ones, but I can't think of their name. they have a site and I'm trying to find it at the moment, but they are not cheap, not by any stretch of the imagination.

i know the fittings on the pre and post face lift headlights are fairly different so id say it would be model specific.. my toyota mate reckons that all the zze12X stuff will fit on each version, the problems you will run into will be things like are the panels the right ones to fit with those lights... the zze122 black rear lights from some other thread will fit on the zze123, but the headlights from a Matrix will not fit unless you change the entire front panels and bumper etc, as it all fits together... I am only repeating what I've been told. oh, fittings I'm not so sure about, but they're "just a simple re-wire" and it'd be sorted, but physically they should fit.

I have these, they came with the car when it was imported. They are firm, but not un-comfortable, spring rate seems good, I've compared them to the closest car I can find here(01 Corolla GT) and it feels a lot more responsive, and it gives you a lot more information about the road you are on. Personally I'm not going to change them until I need adjustables, and I don't think that it will be any time soon, they are one of the best aftermarket sets I've used.

did you guys notice on the mirrors they call them Carbon Fibre, but in the description they say # Comes with Carbon Fiber look # Made of high quality (Paintable) ABS plastic I hate fake carbon... it's just lame, it's like adding a plastic wing to a car, it looks the prt, but does 2/5s of fsck all

Im a little lost with this comment... although it may be my dodgy mind

Its funny, I would have thought that Toyota would know more about their engine than some place that made a clubman... maybe not thought I guess... you could always ask Yamaha, after all, they designed the thing. unless you are going forced induction, keep it as small as you can to keep gas speed high... the stock appears to be 2"(not sure, I got mine with after market goodies), I'm about to change all of mine to 2.5" but I plan to go with a Blitz SC in the next year or so, 2.5" should give me enough flow for ~300WHP, well above what I'm aiming for, incidentally, 2" should be enough for almost 220WHP from memory, well above the ~165WHP that the 2zz gives out on the Celicas and Sportivos.

ok then... but how come one of you guys(meaning an aussie on this forum) had a Sportivo but had a pic in the sig with zze122 written across it? just wondered.

haha, retail $3500 NZD... I have a guy who works for them who is looking at what he can get them for, he thinks ~$1500NZD but will get back to me. Here in NZ, the HID bulb replacements are highly illegal, and the fines are very high for having them, but if you have the whole light assembly(rather than just the bulb kit), they are fully legal... odd laws suck. Interestingly enough, can one of you guys with a Sportivo send me through the full chassis code, the zze122 -XXXXXX thing... the toyota guy I know reckons that the zze122 shouldn't have the 2zz.

I don't know if you guys have heard of it or not, but the Toyota Racing Series here in NZ use the TRD headers. It makes bugger all difference to the stock output, no increase in peak HP, but mid range is a bit better, ut they appear to have done a pretty good job on the stock ones... yes porting is meant to help a bit, but I haven't heard anything about the 20HP, thats a lot to get out of an already fairly highly strung engine.