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Northy

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Posts posted by Northy

  1. Unless you're going to be tuning every nuance in your suspension setup and taking this tuning to the track with you, then you are wasting money. On the street you'll notice sfa between a the Zero 2's and a change of springs / Koni Yellows as an example.

    I think I've only seen two people on this site actually use the Zero 2's to their full extent, one being Superdave who tracks very often. All the other people that jumped on the Zero 2 bandwagon said they just wanted a better handling setup combined with the fact they have the ability to change the ride height. The funny point here is, everyone set their ride height and just left it...and never touched it...again. You can do the exact same thing with springs and shortened shocks...yay. Using the Koni's as an example here, it works out a lot cheaper than the above figures, and they're Koni's so they are high quality.

    Note: I might add that yes, once upon a time they were only a few hundred dollars more expensive than a the above example (Koni's). Personally I can't blame the guys who took advantange of that, granted.

    Thats crap, the Zero 2's are head and shoulders above kings/koni setup and im not even talking about track use, even for the short spirited bit of driving they would shine. When i got my set they cost me just under 3K, one of the best mods i ever did to my sportivo.

  2. Not entirely true SD.

    The Low cam only starts to lose power on a stock ecu because the Stock ECU pulls all the timing from it as it approaches the change over point.... its Toyotas sales pitch for vvtL-i, that sudden lurch you feel as lift hits... it totally pointless for performance. a linear power curve is obviously the optimum.

    when we were tuning the Vmanage, we found that we were making more and More power from the low cam, and started shifting the lift point upwards... we finished the session with change over at 7200 rpm. the next session we started making power from the high cam.. and then the lift point started to come back southward to where it is now at 6050 rpm.

    But to the OP. Spend your time doing alot of research before you make your mind up about buying engine management, and by that i mean... speak to some tuners who have experience with toyota ECU's or who understand their product intimately.

    Good Luck with it.

    That may be the case with Piggyback Setups. With stand lone ECU's you are not restricted by having to use the stock ECU so changing the lift point has real advantages, NA your looking aroudn the 5750rpm mark.

    sorry if this has been covered in a search but couldnt a simple VTEC controller help in this situation or are Toyota ECU's a harder unit to crack?

    Not that easy, VTEC stuff just dosent work with VVTI/L

    Northy,

    My tunes not finished yet. Piggy back or not.. your still using the same hardware... and figuring out how to make power from Both cams takes time.

    Ideally youd set the lift point to 7500 rpm... tune the tits outta the low cam, then set the lift point to 4000 rpm.... then tune the High Cam... then lay the dyno graphs over each other and where they interesect, will be the Optimum lift point.... which i will be able to show you in Mid feb sometime when i am back on the dyno.

    Yep been there, done that.

  3. Not entirely true SD.

    The Low cam only starts to lose power on a stock ecu because the Stock ECU pulls all the timing from it as it approaches the change over point.... its Toyotas sales pitch for vvtL-i, that sudden lurch you feel as lift hits... it totally pointless for performance. a linear power curve is obviously the optimum.

    when we were tuning the Vmanage, we found that we were making more and More power from the low cam, and started shifting the lift point upwards... we finished the session with change over at 7200 rpm. the next session we started making power from the high cam.. and then the lift point started to come back southward to where it is now at 6050 rpm.

    But to the OP. Spend your time doing alot of research before you make your mind up about buying engine management, and by that i mean... speak to some tuners who have experience with toyota ECU's or who understand their product intimately.

    Good Luck with it.

    That may be the case with Piggyback Setups. With stand lone ECU's you are not restricted by having to use the stock ECU so changing the lift point has real advantages, NA your looking aroudn the 5750rpm mark.

    sorry if this has been covered in a search but couldnt a simple VTEC controller help in this situation or are Toyota ECU's a harder unit to crack?

    Not that easy, VTEC stuff just dosent work with VVTI/L

  4. We have a few of these for run arounds at work and they are very nice cars to drive, if your going to be doing a 110km comute get cruise control, the best $600 you will spend, as they are electric throttle its easy to wander on the freeway because there is no resistance from the pedal like the cable ones.

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