Steve gee

Can anyone tell me if the 1997 engine with distributor and the 1999 model with ignition leads direct to ignitors are compatible? I can buy a cheap 97 engine as a back up for my 1999 whihc hs a knock developing but I need to know if I can make the 97 engine work in the 99 RAV. Main point is how does the camshaft trigger the ignitor timing and if a distributor will bolt directly onto a 1999 head or will I have to put the 1999 head on the 1997 block?

OCT 1999 BUILD SWBASE 5 speed, 150,000KM Tinted glass, Air, dual fuel, Hayman reece 1500 kg tow bar, $5950 on the road.

I just bought a 1999 RAV SWB for $5950 with a one year old LPG system and am getting 10 litres per 100km. I start and run it on LPG dont even bother with ULP Cost per fill is not going over $15 per 30 litre fill averaging 54cpl. Drove up Mt WIlliam today 1 mile up in 12KM no power reduction all the way to 5000 feet. Perfect traveller.

Id check the wheel bearings if its done over 100,000 Toyota use single large bearings which crap out.

Heaps on ebay all the time

Foudn aset of four on ebay for $50 100 watts HB3 and HB4

behind the four little slots in the dash facia Its so you dont lock your keys in mate

I was towing a tandem trailer other day with a small GTI on back and went across an intersection with time to spare, imagine my dismay when the acceleration was almost none existant. I flicked to LPG and took off rapidly. Dont knwo what the problem is but its in the EFI. The other day it woud not even kick over on Fuel so I switched to LPG. Bit disappointed in the RAV4, not even a POWER button unlike the Camry. Seriously considering yanking out the 3FSE and going to a 2VZFE. QED.

I am a country driver and I like to see things before I hit them. IMO in the RAV4 it is possible to overdrive the light box. Imagine my suprise when I found that cheapskates Toyota only provided a 50watt high beam lense and a 60 watt low beam which is on low beam all the time. SO you lose your night vision or in this case witha pool of light on low beam on country dark roads you cant get the penetration you need in the distance to miss livestock. I am not even sure this meets ADRS. However anyone have any idea of what retrofit globes are available for the RAV series? In ALASKA we bought an outbacker only to find it had 60/55's and that was after we hit the moose. I did the rounds of the auto stores and found it dismall. Lucky in AUS we can by 100 and even 120 watt inserts. The other thing about the ravs is the internal fuses set at 15 amps. I have mounted two external driving lights and now want to up the inner highs to 100 watts at least. I like to be able to see the whites of the hoppity eyes before I hit them.

There is a BRG SL 100 yards from my house and the old lady wont sell I am waiting until she dies. Try Hamilton Motor Wreckers 03 5571 2999 he has one and might sell. Good luck.

From my limited experience. 1900-GSS 8RG engine 5 speed LSD? Maybe Only ever saw 2 in my life. One owned by Maryborough VIC dealer 1971. Very quick car up the Golden Mile Hill-climb at Ararat. Don Bruce is still around and would give you some data. he is in the Maryborough Phone book. I Saw another on ebay in Goulburn about 2 years ago rusted through floor. He wanted $4500 but the body was deemed irrepairable. 18RG parts will fit. So will 8RB. You can use all the chains ilders and dummy shafts oil pumps etc. In Brisbane I found a whole heap of new twin cam chains. And the non-dowelled cam cogs 8RB 8RG. 18RG engines will fit right in but gearbox is different mounting as the lever is in the side not on top. But you already know that. The Gearbox is very different. There should be info in the RT72 parts book. Stephen Baird at Stawell Toyota is a good contact man. You can email me and Ill try to dig up some info off my micro fiche collection. Pity they dont open the rally up to 1973, I would have a run in my 1973 Toyota Corona GT. If you don't intend refurbishing the GSS let me know, I might be interested in a long term project to add to my collection. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_R_engine

FRACKIN TOYOTAS NAHNANANANAH

Just did my front left passenger wheel bearing. Took great care in pressing on in the correct order and tension. Within 1000 k as I drive along foam bitumen and rock the steering I can make a roll roll roll noise come and go. As I slow can here the slight knock noise so maybe I have a chipped ball. Bummer as it is $70 for a new one and a big job pressing the half centres back in and geting the correct tension. Any ideas why a new BSC bearing would fail so soon? The nut is full tensioned and locked with split pin. Clean no dirt got in, the plastic keeper ws in place right up to the time I pressed the main shell in. ANyen got some ideas. Could it be the LH gearbox bearing?

Be there done that: In my case a 1979 Nissan Fairlady 280z left rotting under gum trees you could see your feet through the rust holes. And a stolen and stripped 280ZX dropped in the Bellingen River on its roof 50 feet down. The firewall is that FIREWALL to protect the occupants from geting an engine fire into the cab. Its structural. So you cant fix it with fibreglass or metal mend which can burn. And any welding will have to have due regard to weakening that structure. Metal mend and car glass are all well and good but brazing good old fashioned with brass sticks workes better. Often with metal if its badly rusted you cant wire wled it just wont take. Mig and TIG works with expertise. Any bad rust can only be permanently repaired by cutting it out and repacing with metal. A donor car for big job is worth the cost. We always go for a bare metal respray as required with etch primer, tetrosil and rust stop the order of the day. It takes hundreds of hours and hard work. The firewall can maybe be fixed by cutting out a thin stainless steel pattern and rivetting it to the existing wall after sand blasting it and trating it with etch primer and fishoilene. But all the holes for a/c speedo/ wiring/ heater hoses/ throttle and clutch cable, master cylinder are all issues. The area in front of the Camry screen and below the vent is hard and will involve extensive repairs with the glass taken out. Remember it is glued on. If your mechanic said its stuffed he is possibly right. Is it worth it in the end?? Used cars are cheap as chips how much is yours worth, how much when you spend the money to fix it? I bought a whole VZV 21 Camry for $600 that I drive. You be the judge. ZEDMAN RESTORATION. The white 280ZX stolen and stripped resored in 2006. cheers

Most Toyotas have a lip in the rear wheel arch. I just fitted 6.5 ich to a Camry with 205x65 series tyres and when go over a big bump the tyres grind in the wheel well. So I will have to fold or tap the lip in in the rear. Size of tyres determines if they will hit or not. 7 inch is getting pretty big. I have 6 inch on the GT and the lip had to be folded back. Sometimes even the front will grab when you turn the wheel hard and go over a bump.

Yeah keep us in he loop might be able to attend..

Go to Wayne Stephensons site and see the variations. ST141 will take a 3TGTE if its rwd and thats areal hoot Was calleda corona GTT Look up on Google Corona GTT

There is a rusted but driveable Corona Ute in my town for $500. The doors and front guards on a Ute are same as on the wagon/five door and wont fit a car exactly.

Is this story for real? You got the ute off your grandad and your uncle has relieved you of it? Fixing rust is hard try a Datsun for style. You should have stuck with it as they are rare. Takes a lot more effort to keep a car than dispose of it. Many times I wanted to sell my GT glad I never did

Nice ride. Top price for 8 year old car/wagon. Price is what you pay. Spares?

Yeah tend to agree looking at my two dead 2VZFE engines one with broken crankshaft and the second cooked from inside out without the temp gauge going over normal. When I stripped the second engine the rear head had baked brown galleries showing oil is critical in these engines. I am now runnign a bigger filter and CH14 high detergent turbo oil. This engine is running OK on LPG but I watch for water useage every day. How is your oil pressure cold and hot at idle? Check where the clunk is front or back left or right. Do a compr test (hard for back block). I have good block and crank if you want a feebie to rebore. cheers Have you heard from Jetstream lately? Hows his manual going? I still think we could fit a 3VZ late model engine.

VZV21 tried them no problems melting But such hii intensity scatters off dust fog mist and just craps uot your night vision on country roads in other than clear air. Too white. and too much pitching from inner spots. I now use Blue And light force main driving lights with 150's and kill off the outers. But I do long hard dark county miles with roos and emus to contend with.

Bad news man I replied with solution maybe..

University of Hard Knocks. In 1998 my GTi SUZUKI developed a knocking clunk noise which we diagnosed as coming from a conrod or big end as it was at crankshaft speed. It go worse as weeks went by. It sounded really convincing. We stripped down a perfectly servicable engine to pieces. Perfect bearing shells Perfect pistons The linish marks still in the block. **** HAPPENS Traced it to a worn keyway holding the lower timing gear cog on the crankshaft. The 2VZFE (VZV21) engine uses same design and a lower drive cog keyed to the crankshaft so I would be looking at this first and the harmonic balancer. This should be easy from underneath taking the balancer off and the lower timing belt cover and then testing for any backlash. Also check the key it will show signs of wear if this is the culprit. If you dont find it there check the top end camshaft keyways an the springloading of the camshaft counter gear which has a scissor anti backlash gear drive. But you should use a stethoscope to try to pinpoint where the noise is emanating from. Chances are if its in the crankshaft, the damage will be in the keyhole as well as the key will be also be worn. You may get lucky and fit an oversized key and glue. In my cas we wrote off the crank and the engine, it would have needed welding as it is forged in a G13B GTi engine. Good Luck. Im thinking Ill go with a 3 litre engine .. Though I am told they are filthy dirty inside.

There is/was a blow by blow description of fitting a manual 5 speed into a Camry Jetspeed did it last year and all the photos werer online. Originally Posted by JetspeedCamry Hey guys/gals, Just thought to share this thread I made up a while ago regarding my E153 manual conversion. It's a bit old now, but still has some useful info and pictures for anyone interested in attempting it or something similar. Apologies if certain parts don’t make entire sense as it was written “on the fly” in a thread over a few weeks. For those that don't know, the swap is from an A540E 4 Speed Auto to an E153 5 Speed Manual on a 2VZ-FE V6, 1988 Toyota Camry. I have all the photos somewhere and decided not to do it due to degree of difficulty instead I am going to fit the 3L engine to my VZV21. Try TOYMODS here is link to JETSPEEDS AWESOME PROJECT "http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14096&highlight=VZV21+manual+gearbox+conversion"