SATORI893

Whenever I have damaged those white clips, I get them from Supercheap Auto, take one in wiith you and they have a rotating rack with all sorts of them on it, 'Champion' is the brand and clip 'PP42' is the one that matches I am pretty sure, I got that code off an 8 pack of them I have but you can buy smaller packs. Hope that helps and it's why you can't get it back on.

The Vapor is nice but I think the Enix Rush look the better. Shame about the Nightrider being illegal, they look really good, for my car if I could I would pick them but I can see once you start looking there is so much to chose from.

That is a shame that the Nightriders don't fit (legally), they look great, The speedy Vapor in 18 x 8 have the right offset (ET45), still 5 spoke but the Nightrider look better, the Vapor come in full black or with a polished rim. .

Not sure if you meant when or were did I get them, the ones on the headlights are from Supercheap Auto, their SCA brand. About $40 I think, 600mm long and you can cut them to size or in half like I did, they have the plug at each end on them, you just have to solder the wires onto the other end after you cut them to make two. Got them about 2 months ago. :D

3M double sided tape is the best for them, you can trim the width down to suit the strip, if they ever blow or you take them off later you can remove it easily without damaging the chrome, glue could affect it, give the LEDs and the area you are sticking them to a wipe with an alcohol swab, the medical ones from the chemist are the same that you get with a lot of self adheasive stuff, it will hold well if parts are clean before you stick them on. Let us know how they look, pics if you can. These are the ones I go from Supercheap, they came with adheasive tape on them, the other pic is the Philips DRLs I mounted under the bumper. I have an over-ride switch to stop mine from turning off when the park lights if I want them to stay on, normally though they turn off with park.

Standard relay wiring. The blue output would be to the positive on the LED strips (you can run extra wiring from wherever you put the relay to the strips), the negative you could just ground to the chassis, the green ACC you can connect to the positive of the fog lamp or power from a switch if you want to turn them off individually, the red is just to the positvie of the battery, black just goes to earth/chassis. The pin numbers and what they go to are more important than the colour of the wire in the diagram, I just used the typical colours. My Philips DRLs have a 3 amp fuse so that would an ok size, no bigger as they don't draw much power but if they do short you want the fuse to blow at low amps, . Get the relay & fuse holder from any auto parts store or electrical store like Jaycar, holder is up to you, blade fuses and holders are neater. If you need more info let me know.

Hi Mallabullaergo, LEDs are very low amperage so don't draw much power, are the strips waterproof?, that would be the only issue that may short the wiring if moisture can get in. I have strips from Supercheap that are waterproof just stuck to the front on my headlights but the are wired to the ignition with a relay and turn off automatically with the park lights and I also have a switch for them, it is a legal requirement that they switch off when the park is switched on but not sure how much it's enforced, they may not bother unless they get you for something else plus the police are now booking people for having there fog lights on, something to do with using them not for the purpose for which they are ment (fog or rain). If you are running them off the fog lights I would use a relay with a fuse so they get power off the battery, I have been told that when SMD LEDs blow they can create a short that feeds back down the wiring and can melt it (worst case senario), not sure if those ones you have are SMD LEDs, this was said in regards to replacing interior and other lights with LED bulbs. I asked the police about lighting and was told blue is a police/emergency colour as VIPZR6 has said you would get a defect. Cheers

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I googled 'speedy knightrider' or just 'speedy' and found them for $195 each on one of the sites, I would have to change my tires also, my stock ones are 17" and those start at 18".

Speedy Knightrider Black, cool name too.

Nice! I think they would look great, I like the mix of black and polished alloy on them and I like 5 spoke rims, that is the style I want to get for mine when I upgrade, is 'Speedy' on the centre cap the brand or the style? How much?

Just dug mine out, it is in the one under the glovebox, labelled CIG 20 A, fuse number 23, number 24 is labelled PWR OUTLET 20 A, that should be the aux one. This thread has pics of where to find the fuse box.

Hi Krayzie, Check the owners manual but if it's not in the fuse box under the bonnet it might be the fuse box under the glovebox, if you don't have an owners manual I can look in mine, it might be under another fuse name.

Mine from Carmate.com, got a Batman look to them or bat like.

I got an amp for my rear speakers to boost the power to them, for the REM to switch the amp on, does the head unit have a +12v when it is on to do this? Before I pull my car apart and check could I use the Antenna Booster Amplifier power out or does this only have power when the radio is on? If the factory head unit has no suitable 12v out for the amp switch, how has anyone who has added an amp got around this? Is there a way to do it off the head unit or do I have to install a swtich from another source? My head unit is a Toyota 6 stack with reversing camera (no Nav) in a 2010 facelift Touring model, is there a wiring diagram for the plugs on this unit on here somewhere or in the downloaded manuals? Would appreciate the help.

I find mine did that after I used it with cig lighter socket chargers, if you look down the cylinder of the socket, there are two pieces of metal at the sides that can be bent out or in, I changed my cig lighter and the new one pushed them out preventing them from holding the lighter in long enough to heat up I believe the heat causes the metal to buckle slightly releasing the lighter. You have to play around with it a bit but I just used a flat screwdriver and bent them back in so they catch on the lighter, you should give it enough grip/tension on the lighter so that you can easily pull it back out when it's pushed in. My phone charger and GPS plugs use to do it all the time, now I just use the aux one in the centre console and I hardwired my GPS holder to hide the wires.

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Gives a nIce agressive/stealth look on a black car, not sure how they would be on a different colour though.

I think it looks like it was always there, not overstated at all, very nice addition!

Why is it only the rear speakers that have the rumble? I have upgraded the front ones and they perform excellently, could it be the fader settings or because they are a different brand of speaker?

Looks nice, in your pic what is the PAC SWI-RC thing, I can only read 'Steering Wheel' on the packet from the angle? Is it a remote control for the head unit or an adaptor for the steering wheel controls to work with the Pioneer unit?

You have to watch the depth of the magnet as the tension rod in the boot doesn't give you much room and then with a spacer to reduce the depth you would have to make sure it clears the rear parcel shelf cover when its in place, the shelf can be trimmed away from underneath but not sure how much depending on the speaker height or if it has tweeters that stick up from the centre you would have to watch the clearance for them to.

A new 'badge' of the letters from toyota comes on a sheet so they are spaced out evenly, if the new one is not too pricey it might be just easier to buy one with the spacing done, I know it's hard trying to line them up but maybe like Couzellion said, make a template off the other doors' badge if you want to reuse the originals.