Hiro

Not much - RA60s aren't that desirable, and the coupes even less so (although they can have that "ugly-but-cool" aspect). An absolute minter might go for a couple of grand to an enthusiast, a rust-bucket you might not be able to give away.

The white Altis is the SE-Asia/US ZZE122 sedan (we got the JDM one which looks different), not the AE112 Superifcially they may look similar but I'd doubt that major dimensions (and in this case the key one being boot width) would be the same since the ZZE122 was the first of the Corollas to move to a "tall-boy" body-style.

Check the pins when the lights are actually turned on - they are ground-switched so when they are turned off all three pins could be floating at 12V with no current flow. You should find that one pin supplies 12V to both high and low-beam circuits, then the combination switch (ie the stalk on the steering column) will ground whichever circuit is needed.

I don't know exactly what circuit the Paseo has but on the Corolla of the same vintage the headlight relay controls both low and high beam (probably because they are a combined bulb)

I just noticed that the check engine amd od off blinking happens on cold start usually in the morning when i start my car around 6am. Could be an issue of cold start?

There is no point speculating on what might be causing it if you don't know what is physically faulty, just pull the codes first and see what that tells you.

Sounds like you've got error codes stored in the ECU - get them checked and fixed/cleared before anything else.

Good-o, just wasn't too sure what the JZX90s came out with (I would have thought they would have been the same as the Soarers and had the two different types depending on model year)

Early R154s have a non-remote shifter housing where the stick comes up direct out of the box. Depending on model some had a gooseneck shifter and/or different length top housings to bring the knob position further back (early JZZ30 for instance).

Later ones had a remote shifter housing with extra linkages and a big y-brace (which you can see in your picture above) like the remote W58 and V160

I _think there are 4 different ones in total

Early non-remote w/ gooseneck - MA70/JZA70

Early non-remote w/ gooseneck and longer housing - early JZZ30

Mid-life remote w/ straight stick - JZX90, JZX100, late JZZ30

Late remote w/ straight stick (a bit further back again) - JZX110

If that is the case then the JZX90 one should be the same/close-enough to the JZX100 one so you'll be OK, but there are enough different types running around (and people often modify ones to make them fit in different models) that you need to be careful otherwise the trans tunnel could require mods or you could be punching the centre console with every second shift.

MA70

Early JZZ30

JZX90/JZX100/late-JZZ30

Yeah, that sounds like you :P

Was just a thought since you said it was coming out of a JZX90 which is a different shifter to the JZX100

*actually meant shifter housing

So you'll be getting the proper extension housing for the R154?

Definitely a 4AFE-powered AE101

or buy one

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brisbane-city/cars-vans-utes/2007-toyota-camry-trd-enhanced-sportivo/1034176172

Looks like the NSW one, a couple of things appear to have changed over the years but the engine setup looks the same.

You might be better off buying another car then. There are off-the-shelf turbo kits from the US for the Scion 2AZ (from memory there is a tiny bit of work to make it fit the Camry), but a decent bolt-on turbo kit (without changing internals) for the 2AZ will probably only bump you up to stock Aurion V6 power levels, for a lot more hassle and decreased reliability.

Do the basics first (exhaust, intake, better suspension etc) and see how happy you are with the car, it'll never be a rocketship but if you were after performance then a 4-cyl Camry is not the best place to start (your mention of turbo Liberty etc doesn't take into account Subaru's extensive rally history and development of the EJ-series engine over many years)

Have a read of this thread, it might give you some help

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/32660-gen-6-turbo-camry/

Define "safe" and "increase". You could increase power by 1kW incredibly safely, but you wouldn't notice the difference.

What kind of goals/money are we talking about here?

Thanks gents. But it's damned annoying!

Talbit

Why is it annoying? If you're getting annoyed with doing the indicated speed limit and are constantly being overtaken/tail-gated, there's a decent chance that it isn't that the other cars have more accurate speedos, rather that they are speeding.

I did wonder my self but then I was thinking the 2rd gear could be for river crossing and coming down steep hills. Locks her in and wont drop down to 1st or up to 3rd.

That's my thought anyway.

Starting in second gear is a common "snow-mode" feature, to avoid wheelspin when starting in slippery/icy conditions.

I started this post a few days ago but it seems to have disappeared.

I’ve got a 2.2l diesel GXL RAV4 (built June 2013) and the

speedometer reads 6klm/hr higher than the true speed as measured on two independent

GPS navigators. It’s 6klm high at 60klm/hr and 80klm/hr so it appears to be an

offset not a percentage error. So to travel at a true speed of 80klm/hr I need

to go at a speed that shows 86klm/hr on the speedo. I know speedos are set to

read higher than the true speed – I don’t know why – but this is too high. What’s

the use of a speedo if it doesn’t read the correct speed? Surely these days it

shouldn’t be too hard to get it right. Has anyone else noticed or is it just

me?

Regards

Talbit

According to the numbers you gave, your speedo meets this regulation and thus is not faulty or illegal. The reasoning behind the regulation is to allow for differences in temperature, tyre inflation pressure, tyre wear, tyre size, load-capacity as well as manufacturing tolerances in the speed sensor and speedometer itself, as well as to remove a legal loophole that allowed people to exceed the speed limit despite their speedometer showing a speed lower than the limit.

In short, you're in the exact same boat as every other new car driver out there. Doesn't matter if you're in a Rav4, Commodore, Ferrari or Great Wall, your speedo could be reading the same way.

Probably because having a tacho with an automatic transmission is not of any benefit.

Extending on that, a CVT WITH an electric motor that often does all of the driving means that tachos are almost completely useless (when you're cruising around on just the electric motor the tacho would be reading zero, which to some people would be more off-putting than not having a tacho in the first place). Instead, much more relevant (for a hybrid) fuel-consumption and driving-style gauges are used.

Give it a firm hit with the palm of your hand, the clips around the cigarette lighter are pretty tight. The only screws holding that panel on are the two at the top underneath the air-con controls.

If that doesn't work, then gently (it snaps easily, mine already has) pry the whole panel free, line up the clips and get that section clipped in first

Personally I don't think you'll see anywhere near the improvements that you'd get from forced induction, especially since you'll have to upgrade just about everything that you would have with a turbo install anyway to get the most out of it (ECU, injectors/fuel pump, manifolds etc)

Camming a big lazy V8 is a completely different story to a small efficient economy 4-cylinder

There are two chances that this will work - Buckley's, and none.

Electric superchargers, Hiclones/vortex generators etc etc have routinely and repeatedly been busted as providing no benefit whatsoever, basically a big fat placebo installed in your intake.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/19545-the-tocau-aurion-faq/

ABS Self-check "clunk" perhaps?

.

.

Q) My Aurion makes a clunk / knock sound when driving off for the first time after starting it. Is this a problem?

This is not an issue. Every time you start your engine and then drive off the ABS performs a self-check. The service manual best describes this:

When the vehicle speed first becomes approximately 4 mph (6 km/h) or more after the ignition switch is turned on (IG), each solenoid valve and motor of the brake actuator is sequentially activated to perform an electrical check. During the initial check, the operating sound of solenoid valve and motor can be heard from the engine compartment, but this is not a malfunction.

Have a read through there and see if it is the same issue that you are having. If so, then you've got nothing to worry about

Sounds like your alternator is dead - the jump puts enough energy into the battery to get it going but the alternator isn't making any juice to keep it charged, thus the car runs entirely off the battery. Had this happen with my AE82, if you are stuck by the side of the road and need to get it home/to a mechanic etc then swap in a fully charged battery from another car, but even then you won't make it too far.

Now there's a name/face I haven't seen in a while :P