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Hiro

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Posts posted by Hiro

  1. Wow...that's crazy, nearly 400,000km and it hasn't even started to slip yet!

    Btw, what camera and lense are you using??

    Camera is a Nikon D5100, lenses either the kit Nikon 18-55/55-200s, Nikon 18-200 (which I use now in place of both kits), or the Nikon 50 1.8 (which those beach shots were taken with)

    I was looking at the Nikon D5100! The quality doesn't look too bad, but I guess it depends on the lens. Where did you buy it from if you don't mind me asking?

    D5100 is good because it's heaps cheaper now the D5200 and D3200 came out - I got mine from Harvey Norman on special for about $800 including both kit lenses. My other main option was a second-hand D90 but even then they weren't that cheap, and I couldn't spring for a new D7000 either (7100 hadn't come out at that stage)

  2. Wow...that's crazy, nearly 400,000km and it hasn't even started to slip yet!

    Btw, what camera and lense are you using??

    It can be made to slip quite easily (ie you don't need to press the pedal much when moving to get the revs to flare) but I've learnt to drive around it - everyone who drives my car says the clutch is stuffed initially, purely because it disengages so high and quickly (how it is now is how it has been for probably the last 100,000km, except for when the masso started dying)

    Camera is a Nikon D5100, lenses either the kit Nikon 18-55/55-200s, Nikon 18-200 (which I use now in place of both kits), or the Nikon 50 1.8 (which those beach shots were taken with)

  3. So after 380,000km, one of the many original factory-fitted components has finally died. The mushiness and butt-load of freeplay in the clutch pedal turned out to be a master cylinder missing most of its seals (yet still not leaking) and filled with more sludge than Hexham Swamp. $300 later, and the difference is night-and-day, with a clutch that disengages within the first 50mm of travel rather than the last 10mm - so much so that it has taken quite a bit of getting used to, with the clutch picking up so high that it feels like you're still in neutral when pulling away.


    Still, the clutch isn't slipping under power (what little power there is) and passes the old 4th-gear+handbrake test, so I should be able to coax it to 400,000km before it actually needs attention...
    • Like 1
  4. Does anyone else have or know about a discrepancy in the specifiactions of the fuel capacity of the 2013 RAV4 Diesel

    On a recent trip to Sydney i refuelled the car after the fuel Guage warning light was on and the Trip computer said i had 5kms until empty.

    On refuelling the car it only took 49.5litres and that was filled to the absolute brim. The specifications state that the fuel tank capacity is 60litres

    10litres is a big discrepancy especially as i could have got at least another 150+ kms from the tank.

    Im confused!!!! Any insights?

    Is this your first car? It is very common for fuel gaues and distance-to-empty computers to be overly conservative (it isn't good PR for a car company to have cars frequently running out of petrol because the trip computer still said 50km to empty)...

    Having a fuel warning light come on with roughly ~10L left in the tank is pretty much standard practice these days. Since this is only a very new car, you haven't had time to come to learn all the little tricks and foibles that it has - once you drive a car long enough you'll learn just how far you can push the fuel warning light

  5. Measurements in minutes and seconds is different a measurement in degrees, which is the case with what the Bridgestone outlet has done for your car. I don't know what each minute and second corresponds to in terms of degrees, therefore some one please expand upon this discussion.

    60 seconds per minute

    60 minutes per degree

    360 degrees per full circle

    The Bridgestone report above uses degrees (the number before the little supersript circle) and minutes (the number before the apostrophe). Measuring wheel alignments in seconds would be nigh-on impossible.

  6. Hi Guys,

    Just wondering, SINCE when did Shell justify a 7c to 10c premium OVER BP Ulti? Has anyone realised that lately, or have I been under my freakin cave all this time and this is very very old news to all? I used to do BP Ulti but because we shopped at Coles, I thought instead of putting those useless 4c off dockets in the bin, I'd use them (4c off saves sqaut anyway). I remember specifically 3mths ago, BP Ulti & V-Power were the same price.

    Since then, I have not compared pricing between BP & Shell (cuz we all have soooo much time), and because today the missus left a BP Ulti receipt on the table, by accident I saw the price -> It was 8c less than V-Power <-

    I pump at the cheapest day in our fortnightly cycle (here in Vic), which is every 2nd Thurs/Fri.

    Shell ULP = 1.42 / Shell V-Power = 1.60 / BP ULP = 1.41 / BP Ulti = 1.52

    I double checked the pricing at another Shell pump, and it was the same...

    If it's because it's fuel developed with Ferrari, well…I really don't give a horses arrears. BP Ulti, Vpower & Caltex Vortex98 are all apples, not a mixture of pears, oranges & grapes

    Not a rant as such, just stunned. If this is Westfarmer's way of getting back at consumers for the "low" prices they offer at Coles, I'm gonna throw a brick into the reception of Coles HQ here in Toorak, Vic.

    Check what the 91s are. Decent chance that the BP 91 is normal whilst the Caltex/Shell 91 is E10, which is usually another 4c/L cheaper than standard 91. (BP in NSW at least have removed E10 91 from most of their sites for 2013 as they are supposedly running scheduled maintenance and can't stock E10)

    It is a known thing that Woolies/Coles inflate the prices so that the 4c/L discount just brings them back in line/slightly under the other servos, if you fill up at a Woolies-Caltex or Coles-Shell without using a shopper-docket you're a downright fool (or have absolutely no other choice)

  7. or rather 3km/hr over the limit.

    I think the 3km/h error margin went out the door in NSW a few years ago when they changed the wording of the lowest bracket from <10km/h over to 0-10km/h over. It is against new ADRs for speedos to read over at all anyway (and most cars on the roads these days would have been made to those ADRs). Most cops etc use discretion in the first place, no point wasting time pulling someone over for a momentary 2km/h lapse of judgment when they could ping someone for 15-20 over. Obviously mobile/fixed cameras (which don't have human operators) are a different story though

    • Like 1
  8. Look at where the car in front is in relation to the lane-markings. When the flash goes off it looks like the car and the camera are level but if you check the lane markings the other car is probably ~20m (3 lane dividers) before the camera.

    According to the numbers on the camera feed you're doing 112-113 when the flash goes off. At that time it looks like you and the other car are going roughly the same speed, but after the flash he slows down substantially which makes me think it got pinged rather than you

    Saying there is no warning sign in front is hard to prove though, since the mobile ones only have that little ~0.5m tall hutch sign that they place on the roadside just before the camera to warn you, it isn't like the big shiny 3 signs before a fixed camera.

    • Like 1
  9. There's only one bolt of difference between pivoting the caliper and completely removing the caliper. It's not hard at all.

    It is more than just the number of bolts. I'm not saying it is harder, just it takes longer - you have to physically remove the caliper, retain it to stop it damaging the brake lines, and the process of fitting the caliper complete over the rotor WITH brake pads fitted is more difficult, and the easier way you end up re-assembling it without the pads and then doing the pad change (or refit) afterwards. Thus, don't be surprised if a mechanic charges extra labour for the job (if you've got a good mechanic then they may waive it).

    The extra effort over all 4 wheels may equate to an hour's worth of extra labour, which at ~$80-90 an hour is not insignificant

  10. i just buy new discs every time I change my pads. It costs like $80-90 for a pair of RDA front discs on eBay so I just figure I may as well buy them instead of getting them machined. I change them myself but I guess you could give the discs to the mechanic to install when the pads are being changed. There shouldn't be any extra labour required to change the discs over as they just slide on when the caliper is removed.

    There is extra work to fit rotors if you're doing pads at the same time. There is basically no extra work to fit pads if you're doing rotors at the same time. Yes there is a difference....

    If you're just changing pads then the caliper pad holder stay bolted to the hub (which prevents the rotor coming off) and the caliper piston housing pivots up allowing you to change the pads - you then reset the piston and pivot the unit back down over the new pads.

    Changing the rotor requires you to completely remove the caliper and pad holder from the hub.

  11. W58s get put behind old-skool Holden V8s (302s etc) so they can handle a decent amount of power/torque, you'll probably never find a hard-and-fast number though as a lot of it comes down to driving style

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