Hiro

Will have to double-check the dates, but I'm keen. Wollombi run is always good, and I'm much closer to home at the end of it too.

Hi guys, I'm new to this, but I'm definitely going to be there But I just wanted to know, if I'm a bit late on this!! but do we all meet in Villawood before cruising out to palm beach?

This thread (and the event associated with the first post) is 7 years old....

The current monthly meet thread (it gets updated each month, most months are just meets at Greenacre but there is the occasional cruise) is found at the link below

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/34174-sydney-monthly-meet27713-eomm/

Its not $100 a month. There is access also involved. $650/per insurance claim

I was just generalising - every insurance policy, claim, excess and insurer are different.

also moar pix on that nissan on the right :P is that an exa ?

S12 Gazelle....and no, we don't need any more pictures of the dirty Datsun :P

I had a rattle somewhere in the car, but after installing a 600w stereo amp I don't seem to notice them anymore..........

I'm usually the reverse - don't notice rattles until I shake them loose with the stereo :P

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/27430-the-brisbane-thread-weekly-meet-every-thursday-from-8pm/

Hi Hiro.

There was no need for this rant.

A solution to the problem has been found and the people concerned have been notified by PM.

With the number of threads/posts popping up lately about people getting litigious over relatively minor issues (often when there isn't any solid reason for legal recourse and compensation), I felt the rant was necessary. It is more a comment on society in general at the moment rather than individual people, but it still frustrates the hell out of me (and a lot of other people too).

Not sure where I stand legally on this one? Is Toyota to blame from poor design and am I entitled to compensation?

Any thoughts..?

You're kidding, right? Is Toyota responsible for someone reaching in behind your grille, popping your bonnet and stealing your battery? How about jacking the car up and stealing your alloy wheels? What about a tailgate-mounted spare wheel?

By all means claim it through your insurance company (that is what car insurance is for, afterall), but in no way is Toyota to blame, and they are more than entitled to laugh in your face if you go into a dealership and ask for financial compensation.

Seems like a reasonable reaction to me Hiro and obviously you haven't had your spare stolen ..yet!. Toyota have got to be kidding, firstly for poor design and then having the hide to charge over $2000 for a replacement rim and tyre..!! Seems a bit expensive wouldn't you think ..? Why isn't there a locking mechanism on the spare..?? What happens when my $2000 replacement tyre is stolen again..?? My Toyota service centre have said that numerous cars have had their spare tyres stolen recently ...so its happening on a regular basis.

Despite the current problem I actually love the Kluger and would definitely buy another. A change in design is definitely required.

No, I don't have an external spare tyre so have never had it stolen (my car was broken-in to twice when my dad owned it though). I understand your annoyance at it being taken, and it sucks, but cursing Toyota for a poor design and expecting compensation are two completely different things. No car is perfect, and when you buy a car you accept certain facets about it, especially a 4WD with an externally-mounted spare tyre (regardless of where the mechanism is). No car is theft-proof, and very few external components of the car are either. Sure, it is something that Toyota could address in their next design planning meeting when they sit down to discuss the new Kluger, but it isn't a recall-worthy issue and may barely even warrant a TSB, so at the end of the day why should they bother? Obviously they are aware of the problem already, so if nothing has been done so far then there is a decent chance it will stay that way.

As for the replacement cost, OEM alloy wheels (I'm assuming it was a full-sized alloy spare at that price) are always hugely expensive compared to aftermarket wheels, regardless of the manufacturer. Factory wheels are often made to more exacting standards and tolerances than an aftermarket wheel, they are usually designed SPECIFICALLY for that car, not just a generic range, and being a 4WD wheel they have to be bigger, tougher and stronger than normal. Are they _worth_ $2k to most people? Hell no, not even close (people sell second-hand sets of stock wheels for tens to hundreds, not thousands), but that is the price to buy a brand new one from Toyota. Since you should be putting this through an insurance claim, why are you even worried about the cost? Let the insurance company sort it out, that is what you pay them $100 a month for.

Hi, im new here and have a couple of questions regarding the Corolla 1995 Seca (which is mine btw)

1. Does anyone have a digital copy of the owner's manual ?

2. Does anyone have a copy of the fuse box diagram ?

3. What voltage and current does the light on the car ceiling (as in the one that turns

on when the door is open) need in order to run ?

4. Regarding the light I talked about in 3., can I buy a replacement bulb or fuse

at Supercheap Auto ?

thanks

1) Owners Manuals are pretty worthless these days, go down to Supercheap/Repco or go on eBay and buy a Workshop Manual (I recommend the Gregorys #271), it has just about everything you need in the owners manual plus a whole heap more to help out with home maintenance, and if it allows you to do just one thing at home (for instance changing brake pads) then it will have paid for itself in labour costs at a mechanic.

2) Diagrams for the fuse boxes should be on a label on the underside of the fuse-box lid. If not (and they're not in the workshop manual), let me know and I can look them up

3) Just about everything not related to the ignition in a car runs on 12V. The dome light (the light on the roof that turns on when you open the doors etc) will run a festoon bulb that you can buy from any auto-parts store, same goes for the fuse (which should be in the engine-bay fuse box)

Not sure where I stand legally on this one? Is Toyota to blame from poor design and am I entitled to compensation?

Any thoughts..?

You're kidding, right? Is Toyota responsible for someone reaching in behind your grille, popping your bonnet and stealing your battery? How about jacking the car up and stealing your alloy wheels? What about a tailgate-mounted spare wheel?

By all means claim it through your insurance company (that is what car insurance is for, afterall), but in no way is Toyota to blame, and they are more than entitled to laugh in your face if you go into a dealership and ask for financial compensation.

well that sucks. If I fill up with BP I may as well just start using 95 from now on...or is that 10% ethanol too? And BP doesn't have the discounts (although coles seem to be 1-2 cents more expensive anyway so it's kinda cheaper by 2 cents really) I don't get why greenies are so obsessed with "biofuels". It ruins the environment and uses our food source to burn...oh well. I hate you coles!

95RON premium unleaded from all the major retailers (Caltex, Shell, BP etc) does not contain ethanol. As for "using our food sources" and "ruining the environment", ethanol for fuel usage in Australia is derived from the waste products of the sugarcane (molasses) and livestock grain feed (sorghum) industries in NSW and QLD, waste products that would otherwise be burnt or dumped.

I am no fuel expert so take this with grain of salt but pumps are as so for Coles:

Unleaded - May contain up to 10% ethanol.

E10 - Contains 10% ethanol.

Woolworth:

Unleaded Contains up to 5% ethanol.

NSW is different to Victoria (where thtupid is from) - practically all service stations in NSW have to sell 91 E10 instead of normal 91 Unleaded (the Government introduced legislation stating that ethanol has to make up a minimum percentage of sales), so much so that most sites now just say 91 Unleaded and then in small print afterwards "E10" or "with ethanol" or "Contains up to 10% ethanol" or the like.

NSW 6% total sale ethanol mandate

Also, anything labelled E10 in NSW has to contain between 9% and 10% ethanol. There is also a difference between plain E10 (which is ~94 RON) and 91 E10 (which is obviously minimum 91 RON)

there is no really good undercover places that don't attract the local rozzers....so if it's bad, we just move it :)

Or angry Bunnings people...

What makes me think it's the gear stick that the problem is that sometimes it gets stuck/sticky shifting when the engin is off. Something does feel a little loose somewhere and like you I feel comprelled to have a look inside by removing the centre console and see if there is anything I can do.

Manual gearboxes (especially cable-shift) will always be hard to shift when the engine is off as there is no rotation to remove misalignment in the baulk ring and dog teeth. Common when trying to go into reverse (which doesn't have synchro, so you could be shifting square onto a dog tooth), you shift into another gear then back in to reverse, the slight bit of motion caused by the aligning of the teeth when shifting into the new gear is often enough to get you within the alignment range to shift into reverse

Just been reading the Australian release version of the car was limited to 85kw of engine power while the Indonesian and Russian version of this car got up to 120kw of engine power. Trying to now figure out if it's CPU controlled restrictions based on Australia's stronger pollution standards and can it be changed :).

You misread, it's 120 HP not kW :P 120HP is about 89-90kW, which is much more realistic (and not much greater than 85). Besides, there is a distinct possibility that Toyota didn't change the power rating of the AE112 7AFE despite it being a slightly different engine to the AE102: AE112s have factory extractors, plus the torque is different (slightly lower maximum torque but at much higher revs). All in all, the cars are ~10-15 years old now, so none of them would be putting out factory power, and you could see more than 4kW variation between models simply from wear-and-tear.

They'll have to be old STi wheels as the STi has been 5x114.3 since 2005...

These are new BRZ STi wheels in 5x100 in 17" and 18"

Ahh, forgot Subaru had finally announced a BRZ STi...

Yeah...sometimes it's hard to put into gear.....it can happen when cold or after driving for a while. I notice I have th push the clutch pedal hard to the floor to make sure I can change the gears smoothly. So I get caught out when I need to change gears quickly. Since the clutch isn't slipping nor does the pedal seem "soft" it seems to me all it needs is some adjustment to when pushing the clutch pedal releases the clutch.

Some gearboxes are locked in.. so the oil never needs replacing. I didn;t think this car was oen of them but I could be wrong.

Maybe I chould go up to 16" then :)

Auto gearboxes are sometimes sealed for life, manuals usually aren't (especially ones that use gear oil rather than ATF). Your car should have a C52 (or another similar C-series box) which are definitely serviceable and have both drain and fill plugs.

With the clutch pedal, is there a lot of freeplay (ie is the pedal really easy to move for ~1-2" of travel before it firms up)? I'm having a similar trouble at the moment with my 102 where it is hard to change gears when the gearbox is cold (especially when stationary at intersections etc), when it is warm it is ok, but there is a heap of freeplay at the start of the pedal travel (height is ok though) - going to rip the bottom of the dash out this weekend and try and tighten things up, see if I can stay off doing a gearbox oil change or clutch change for a few more months (waaaaaay overdue, don't think the gearbox oil has been changed in ~150,000km)

was wondering if i can put 14 inch rims on a 13inch rim stud pattern on a ae101 corolla. does anything have to be changed to be able to. would the speedo be out

13" isn't the stud pattern, it is the rim size (4x100 is the stud pattern).

But yes, you can put 14" wheels on an AE101 with no problems (AE102s came with 14" wheels as standard), just make sure the get the appropriate tyre size so the speedo won't be out. Stock 13" size should be 165/75/R13, so if you're going up to 14" then you'll need a 175/65/R14 tyre (assuming you're staying with roughly the same width wheel)

They'll have to be old STi wheels as the STi has been 5x114.3 since 2005...

Driving Track means nearby road or Round ab't.

And what makes you think that the OP's driveshaft didn't fail on one of these nearby roads? Like I said, if you break an axle you'll need a tow regardless of how far away you are from the dealership, even if it is just a block.

"it started making a grating noise 5 days ago, when turning right (full turn)."

...

In this instance they should have checked the vehicle by taking a full right turn with the car on their driving track/parking space...

"Driving track"? Dealerships have test-tracks now? I know my local Toyota dealership would barely have room in their yard to be doing figure-8s etc (especially when full of cars in for service) to try and test out cornering noises, just because the customer says "I heard a noise turning full right" doesn't mean it can easily be replicated in a small area at low speed. I know my noise for instance only happens when turning right, but it has to be off-throttle at ~20km/h, and preferably off-camber too, something that cannot be replicated in a car park.

There is no point simply doing a reverse park in the carpark, hearing a grating noise and going "OK, put it up on the hoist and we'll spend hours tracking down what it could be". 15 minutes of real-world road driving in varying conditions can save hours of troubleshooting in the workshop as it can narrow down the causes of the noise and pinpoint the components to be inspected/tested, something that can be hard/impossible to replicate on a hoist.

They should have done this test drive with in their premises.

What kind of dealership has the space to get out of first gear? Most people complain about mechanics/service centres just rolling the car around the carpark/forecourt and then claiming they took it for a test drive, not the other way around

If I want a car road-tested to sort out bugs, I want as many varied conditions thrown in as possible (speed bumps, roundabouts, hills, bumps, >80km/h etc etc). I've already had this problem with a dealership before in regards to a knocking sound going around right hand corners - they diagnosed the problem as worn rack ends (which were replaced) and then a worn steering rack (which got refurbished), only for me to experience the exact same problem not half a km away from the dealership after I picked up the car, at the first roundabout. Obviously the car wasn't test-driven before or after the diagnosis otherwise they wouldn't have handed it back with the problem still there (and completely unaffected by the work carried out).

And who is to say it was "far away" from the dealership? A broken axle would necessitate a tow whether it was 100km or 100m away from the dealership

they are gen 8 that were conceived by toyota and surrogated by subaru , so they are actually toybaru.

Can we end this "Gen8" thing already? The 86 is NOT a Celica, it is a completely new stand-alone model that harks back to the AE86 COROLLA (hence the name). Just because internet rumours at some stage in the last 5 years said that Toyota were going to call it a Celica, doesn't make it one, no matter how much you want it to be.

Well, that's my rant for the day...

1 set, no really,maybe two ;)

A month?

Thanks guys.

Do you know what would be more concave.

19x8.5 +30 or

19x9.5 +45

Just a bit stumped as to if the extra inch width adds 25mm greater concave or 12.5mm (inch is split onto either side of rim)

You've added an inch of width, but you've added more than half an inch of positive offset. Thus, there will be less "dish" on the wider wheels, technically (assuming everything else about the wheels are identical).