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Hiro

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Posts posted by Hiro

  1. I struggle to believe that a perfectly functioning wheel bearing would die purely from the heat of one hard stop from ~60km/h (you mentioned city traffic), even in a 2.5 tonne Landcruiser. I'd be much more inclined to believe the mechanic's view that the grease wasn't packed properly into the bearing and it has run dry, which would cause it to get very hot very quickly

  2. yeah the bulb is dual filament bulb and car is pre face lift. It has separate bulb for tail light.

    I couldn't find single filament bulb at autobarn, supercheapauto, autopro, repco and 4 servos in Canberra, so purchased dual filament.

    Surprised you couldn't find a single-element bulb, I've seen plenty (my car needs dual-filament though). If you want a difficult bulb to find, try a T20 wedge parker (clear) light, they are easy to find in 20W (which are for indicators with tinted lenses) but seem non-existent in 5W (which explains why the filters on my parkers are melting :P)

  3. I purchased these http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Automotive-Globe-Stop-Tail-12V-21-5W-2-Pack.aspx?pid=120228#Cross

    They are working fine but I am not sure which one lights up when I press brake, 21w or 5w ? how much is the difference bteween visible light output?

    21W will be the actual brake/stop light element, 5W will be the tail light element (aka the dim red light that comes on when your headlights are on)

    The 21 and 5 are referring to the wattage of the globe, so the brake light should be roughly 4 times brighter than the tail (21/5 ~= 4)

    OP: Is the replacement bulb you bought a dual filament bulb?

    Ian's comment got me thinking about mine as the Gen5 uses a 5W T10 for the tail light. I pulled out my stop light and it's a single filament T20-21W bulb.

    Difference between pre- and face-lift rear lights perhaps? (2004 was the changeover correct?)

  4. I purchased these http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Automotive-Globe-Stop-Tail-12V-21-5W-2-Pack.aspx?pid=120228#Cross

    They are working fine but I am not sure which one lights up when I press brake, 21w or 5w ? how much is the difference bteween visible light output?

    21W will be the actual brake/stop light element, 5W will be the tail light element (aka the dim red light that comes on when your headlights are on)

    The 21 and 5 are referring to the wattage of the globe, so the brake light should be roughly 4 times brighter than the tail (21/5 ~= 4)

  5. Get a set of X force one you will be no problems

    If you are referring to X-force Varex mufflers, then technically they are illegal and defectable too. Now before people kick up a stink and say that Aston/Ferrari/HSV etc all have variable exhausts, they are all automatic and not driver-controlled like the Varex is.

  6. All Aus 7th gens are 2ZZ's and therfore do not have an electronic throttles so no worries there. Like the corolla sportivo's the C52 gearboxes are the weakest links in these cars.

    .

    All Australian 2ZZs run the 6-speed C6x transmission (C60 in the Celica, C64 in the Corolla I believe)), not the 5-speed C52.

  7. Latest JayDeeEmm accessory:

    20130324_182053_zps328d6f5d.jpg

    20130324_182132_zpscd395870.jpg

    Doesn't seem to have memory so if it was running before you turn the car off it doesn't turn back on automatically when you restart (apparently it has some kind of learning function so maybe it just needs time)

  8. Market viability is the problem - Australia is not a large market, so bringing in exrta models will more than likely just drag customers away from existing Toyota models (or not, in the case of the Avalon for instance). Additionally, Australia already makes the Camry and Aurion (with government subsidies) for both the Australian and overseas markets, so it would not be financially viable to replace those models with imports from Japan (Altona would still need to exist to satisfy the Middle East market, and the SE Asia one too if it exports the "prestige Camry" (aka Aurion) there). You can imagine the outrage from the community and the business sectors if Toyota were manufacturing cars here for other countries but importing a similar/replacement model from Japan for the local market.

    In short:

    1) Yes it sucks

    2) It's not going to change any time soon

  9. Installing projectors without projectors is illegal and possibility of defect.

    If you do choose to install a HID without projectors, your bulb size is H4.

    i personally installed projectors to avoid defect

    I'm fairly sure that all aftermarket HID installs (regardless of projector-type housings) are illegal and defectable if not fitted with washers and auto-levelling

  10. my allighnement is a little off , i need to get that done up when i have time. but i dont think its allighnment problem. as my fd2 civic allighnment is off as well , but no shaking poblem on that car.

    There are a lot of alignment variables, just because one car is "out of alignment" doesn't mean it will behave exactly the same as another one. A car with excessive but even toe-out will feel different to one with excessive but even toe-in, and both will be completely different to one with mis-matched alignments left to right.
    • Like 1
  11. Sucking up dirt and water etc when fuel level is low is an urban legend. Fuel pumps are always situated at the bottom of the tank, and petrol floats on water so if there was water in the tank the pump would suck it up regardless of the fuel level. In addition, even if dirt has settled to the bottom of the tank (cars make quite good agitators when driving so this would only be after a prolonged wait) then there is a sock on the fuel pump pickup AND at least one other fuel filter in the line before the fuel would reach the engine, thus preventing any kind of damage.

    The issue with running modern cars out of fuel is mainly three-fold:

    1) Modern high-pressure in-tank fuel pumps are lubricated by the fuel itself. Run it dry and you risk overheating and damaging the pump

    2) There isn't a "reserve" of fuel like a carby bowl, so the instant the fuel pump starts to starve, the engine will struggle and cutout, which leads to

    3) Running the car almost out of fuel can create very lean combustion, which can damage the engine and the catalytic converter.

    There is nothing wrong with running a car down to the fuel light comes on, but pushing it any further is opening you up to the above risks. Once you drive your car alot you will learn just how much fuel is left once the light comes on and how far you can push it, but being so pedantic that you fill up the tank when it drops to 3/4 is just ridiculous, and technically will cost you money in the long run (perpetually full tank means more weight to carry around, which means poorer fuel consumption - not a lot, but it could add up over the life of the car)

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