Hiro

There are two chances that this will work - Buckley's, and none.

Electric superchargers, Hiclones/vortex generators etc etc have routinely and repeatedly been busted as providing no benefit whatsoever, basically a big fat placebo installed in your intake.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/19545-the-tocau-aurion-faq/

ABS Self-check "clunk" perhaps?

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Q) My Aurion makes a clunk / knock sound when driving off for the first time after starting it. Is this a problem?

This is not an issue. Every time you start your engine and then drive off the ABS performs a self-check. The service manual best describes this:

When the vehicle speed first becomes approximately 4 mph (6 km/h) or more after the ignition switch is turned on (IG), each solenoid valve and motor of the brake actuator is sequentially activated to perform an electrical check. During the initial check, the operating sound of solenoid valve and motor can be heard from the engine compartment, but this is not a malfunction.

Have a read through there and see if it is the same issue that you are having. If so, then you've got nothing to worry about

Sounds like your alternator is dead - the jump puts enough energy into the battery to get it going but the alternator isn't making any juice to keep it charged, thus the car runs entirely off the battery. Had this happen with my AE82, if you are stuck by the side of the road and need to get it home/to a mechanic etc then swap in a fully charged battery from another car, but even then you won't make it too far.

Now there's a name/face I haven't seen in a while :P

If you're not on there already, Toymods has a few rather serious 3RZ builds...

Fuel gauges and trip computers are always conservative, usually the fuel light will come one with around 10L left in the tank (obviously varies between models/brands but it is a generalisation) and trip computers are only an estimate anyway (since they vary based off driving habits).

Every car is different, over time you will learn how much leeway you have when the light comes on, and how close to 0km (or how far past it) you can go on the trip meter before you need to fill up.

Huh ?

Obviously English isn't his first language

Hi...i have camry 2000 '. 4cylender manual gear actually i dont have too much about car maintenance ...before mounth ago i bought complete tools so i start use my new tools on my camry i decide to clean over engine because of oil sail .after i finish the car wont start this probpem take more then three weeks please help me i hope i well found the answer here because the camry coming from cangarro land australia

Topic moved - in the future, please post in the correct section (and avoid multiple threads/posts)

The wipers on my car will be changed when I consider it necessary to do so.... not when some counter jumper at a dealership says so because they want to push sales. Also... when replacing Kluger wiper blades do not use el-cheapo no name ones as they are a special wiper apparently. (from a qualified Toyota mechanic)

The mechanic I use now does not have any apprentices. Why did you assume he did?

Now, you will say that all the mechanics that you know have apprentices,...... but that does not automatically mean that every motor mechanic workshop in Australia has apprentices... some are sole operators.

Of course, but the great thing about exemptions is that they tend to prove the rule. Most trade-based operations, including owner-operators, will have apprentices. The fact that you have found one that does not is both a good and a bad thing. Good because you're probably going to get better quality work, bad because it means that things probably aren't going to get done in a hurry due to the lack of manpower (when your mechanic has to do everything from full rebuilds to pink slips to sweeping the floor, things tend to take a bit longer than a dealership with a full complement of apprentices

I had no apprentices in my business (not a mechanic) which required a trade qualification.

In addition... A close personal friend worked for a dealership (not Toyota) for over 30 years, he has since passed on. Another friend was the service manager for another dealership (not Toyota) for two years... they both tell the same story of funny / dodgy happenings on a regular basis.

One little tale.... >> My neighbour... purchased a new 4wd... over time he had 5 expensive services at the local (not Toyota) dealership. On a long trip to outback SA it began acting up so he dropped into the local workshop at the next country town. They put it up on the hoist and called him in to show him that every filter in the vehicle was the one fitted at the Asian factory... even the oil filter! It does happen...

You seem like an OK guy, but it sounds like you have a grudge against all dealerships because of the actions of a few. I guarantee you that everyone knows of a friend/family member who has had problems with a dealership, but that is inevitable with the number of cars on the road and the frequency of logbook servicing. How many friends/family members do you know who have never had a problem with their car being serviced? I know my parents have never had a problem with Newcastle Toyota for instance, and that is after having their Camry serviced there for almost 18 years and 250,000km. I personally use one particular mechanic in Newcastle that I've never had a problem with (apart from them saying that a particular exhaust modification couldn't be done, yet a dedicated specialist exhaust shop with excellent knowledge of the car did it with ease), but at the same time have had several problems with another local mechanic (in particular taking 2 days to change 3 diff seals and drain/re-fill the LSD oil, only to have them insufficiently tighten the hub nut causing the wheel bearing to begin to fail within a matter of days).

I've also had problems with the same Toyota dealership that my parents use with them being unable to correctly diagnose a front-end noise (and recommending two separate fixes, both of which did nothing), but at the same time they fixed my loose alternator in the carpark for free( top pivot bolt had worked its way out).

For one... they wrote it in the log book!!.. and I know that means nothing and it is not normally done. They wrote it on the screen sticker too. A personal friend confirmed me they had been using it as well. It is not uncommon practice to boost profits with any dealership of any make to take shortcuts.

New wiper blades every 6 months??? Pass on that one... lol.

If that is the case then...

a. why does the service schedule not list "replace" wiper blades at every 6 month service????????

From the Toyota website

Windscreen wipers are very important for safe driving, especially at night. They are designed to effectively remove moisture and dirt from the front and rear windscreen, providing a clear view for the driver.

However, the soft rubber inserts are vulnerable to wear and tear from the elements and can be literally worn out with use. Contaminants and adverse conditions on the road can accelerate rubber deterioration, often resulting in chattering and streaking across the windscreen. Lack of use, due to storage or driving in dry climates can leave the rubber on the windscreen wipers cracked and brittle. The same applies to headlamp wipers too, and all rubber inserts should be checked regularly and changed when necessary.

Signs you may need to replace your windscreen wipers:

Chattering or streaking across the windscreen

Cracks or brittleness on the wiper

Smearing on the windscreen after use

Toyota Genuine Windscreen Wipers

Toyota Genuine Wipers, like all Genuine parts, have been designed especially for your Toyota. When you get your car serviced by Toyota technicians, they will know to check the condition of the wiper blades and its rubber inserts.

To ensure maximum windscreen cleanliness, use the Toyota Genuine Windscreen Washer Additive. Giving the rubber blade a regular wipe with tissue will also help to clean off the build-up of grease and grime. This will help to maintain a clear view through the windscreen and keep your wipers working longer.

b. why does my other acv40r wipers work perfectly after 7 years?????

Wiper blades that you might find acceptable could be considered worn-out by someone else (including a dealership)

c. why did the blades on my mcv20r wiper blades also perform perfectly after 10 years of driving?

d. cars (in nsw) are inspected every year (except under 5 years old) and they are tested then and you are refused renewal if they do not operate properly.

Quite often product manufacturers will recommend changing things far in excess of their optimum lifespan.

You can figure out why?????

Hi Kenshin,

I know for a fact that in my previous Toyota a dealer did use 20/50 oil and I only found that out by accident.

What they tell you or write in your log book and what actually happens are two different things.

I don't have to mark anything to see if they change it as where it will be done in future I will see it all happening.

A Toyota dealer will never see my current car again unless it needs warranty work.

The first service they put 60psi in all the tyre rather than the 40psi & scratched the rear bumper.

The second service at another dealer they tried to convince me that my wipers needed replacing and would only cost $57! When I explained the car had only done 10k (was 20k service) was only 1 year old and spent 99% of its time under cover the subject went no further.

Another benefit of not going to the Toyota dealer is that it now will be serviced by a mechanic and not an apprentice or labourer. I have nothing against apprentices but when you pay the labour rates for a mechanic you want a mechanic.

What was this previous Toyota that they put 20W50 in? And how did you "accidentally" find out?

Wiper blades are supposed to be replaced every 6-12 months, even if they don't see much use, as the rubber will deteriorate and they will no longer be effective. This is the same for all cars, not just Toyota

And just because you're taking the car to a mechanic now, doesn't mean that an apprentice won't be working on it. Mechanics can have apprentices too, not just dealerships, and usually the most mundane work (oil changes, basic services etc) get farmed out to the apprentices wherever you go.

some more TRD gimmickry :D TRD aero stabilizing cover

A glorified panel gap filler :P

Still, looks nice :D

Fitting an LSD on an Aurion from factory is a terrible idea from a cost point of view.

Especially since LSDs don't really fix axle-tramp/wheel-hop (they might alter when it occurs, but it doesn't actually fix the problem)

You didn't say you needed a diesel...

And besides, a 5 minute check of Redbook shows that the cheapest 2013 Y62 Patrol is $82k (and the Nissan website shows the 2014 model at $90k), so either the one you saw is being heavily discounted, is a second-hand/demo model, or you're thinking of the Y61 (which is a 16-year-old model still sold at a cheap price for tradies, farmers, off-roaders etc since the Y62 has gone upmarket)

If WD40 made it go away for a few days then lubrication is the answer - use a proper lube this time instead of WD40 though (WD40 is a poor long-term lubricant because most of it evaporates quickly and the rest is quite thin, which is why it is a good penetrating oil)

If I see a black oil filter then I know it's doing it's job.

Clean filters and clean oil 6000km after they were last changed is either a sign of a miracle, an engine that has just left the showroom floor, or something isn't working properly.

And my car-related ones:

Hilux, Hiace, Townace etc etc

There are many different engine combinations though, including diesels, but the Hilux used the R-series petrol 4 for quite a while which was also in the Celica/Corona. The early Townace was basically a Tarago (with the Y-series, also shared with Hiluxes)

yes moderator

i read his first line and

i took his intention was to source an engine in brisbane if none closer hence my post

thought it would be helpful if could find a cheaper supplier here in brisbane

sorry

Fair enough, but like you said most of the stuff in Brisbane has converted to U-pull-it style, which isn't that useful if you're halfway across the country and are trying to avoid/save postage on a couple-hundred kg lump of cast iron (4ACs are worth a case of beer, or maybe $100 at most for a pearler, so freight is the main cost here)

Hi all,

I am new to the forum. I thought i would try this website before buying an engine from Brissie. I bought a Sierra last year and it has a 4AC engine in it. The engine is cooked and finding another one is proving rather difficult. I am in Darwin and a secondhand 4AC with freight will be $1095.

Does anyone have or know of a 4AC engine that they want to sell, it needs to be in good running order.

Thanks

Cozzy

most of the wreckers in brisbane here have converted to pull it out your self

salsibury wrecking has gone

the abc at darra is a pull it yourself

most have a $2 dollar entry fee

http://www.capalabawreckers.com.au/ only big wrecker left in brisbane

there is a toyota wrecker on the gold coast but dont know if they go that far back any more

all carby cars go straight to the crusher in brisbane

only other option is to find a parts car and go from there

try looking at wreckers along the coast in QLD. bundaberg .maryborough .noosa

He's in Darwin.....

I just bought a second hand Tarago from a big dealer in Perth. The paperwork lists it as "Toyota Tarago ACR30R GLi 2.4L 4Cyl". (It has a 6 cylinder engine, so I am guessing this is not entirely accurate.)

The import tag on the vehicle lists it as "Toyota Estima Campervan". It is definitely not a campervan (normal seats inside), but I am guessing it is some kind of Estima?

I just had a bunch of questions, and any input or answers would be greatly appreciated. (Or links to pages that might explain some of this would be great. I can probably find most of the answers myself, but my first few days of web searches did not result in very much at all, perahaps because it is an import model?)

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The vehicle has central locking, but no remote was provided. I am hoping to install a remote. I thought there may actually be a remote module already in the car and that I may just need to buy a new remote and pair it? I found these connectors beneath the steering wheel. Are they related? Could anyone point me to the wiring manuals or where I could get them? (I am not experienced at doing such things, but I am good at slowly reading things through and working them out.)

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There is this camera or sensor at the rear. Can anyone shed any light on what it is?

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At first I thought this box under the passenger seat was a cd changer, but it has "Toyota Navigation Computer" and a bunch of various computer connectors on the rear (none of them connected). I am guessing it is an old GPS unit or equivalent.

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A toll card reader is installed...

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The stereo is brand new...I'm guessing the Japanese ones don't work here.

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This strange device is fitted to the rear-vision mirror.The only markings on it state "Super Cat me-3". I thought it might be a radar detector, as it shouts "Be careful. Slow down" whenever I drive past shopping centres, but I can't find any kind of sensor on it (unless it is for the backing sensor?).

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The engine. Seems very new. Any comments appreciated.

Finally, I know it is probably being paranoid, but should I, or do I need to check, that the vehicle is not affected by radiation? From browsing the net, opinions widely vary from "tin foil hat" to "some highly radioactive vehicles are no-doubt being slipped into out market". I'm old and not worried by dropping dead from such things, but I do have kids so I would rather be safe than sorry.

Much appreciated,

Mike

The import paperwork will say it is a campervan because of an import loophole which allows these style of vans (Estimas, Elgrands, Alphards etc) to be imported as a "special-use" vehicle despite the normal versions not meeting the import requirements (power-to-weight, unique body shape, published in an enthusiasts publication etc) - when they get here and after compliance they have the campervan hardware ripped out and replaced with the normal passenger interior.

The Australian paperwork saying that it is an ACR30 Tarago is technically wrong, but probably says that because the import version doesn't exist in the system so it just got classified as the closest Australian equivalent (which is bad practice as it can lead to rego headaches down the path). The car is technically a MCR30 (JDM versions did come with the V6) Estima (the Tarago is an Australian name, but unlike the previous model I think there is no longer the distinction in body-width between the narrow Estima and wide Previa/Tarago).

The steering wheel has obviously been changed at some point (no other reason for a Lexus badge to be on a Toyota wheel)

I can't say if the engine has been changed or not, fairly sure (but not 100%) that the Estima got the non-VVTi version of the 1MZ but cam covers/engine covers can often be changed without affecting what is beneath

The headunit has probably replaced some kind of EMV which would have combined a Japanese navigation unit (hence the drive under the seat), possibly even TV and the reversing camera, which means that these units probably no longer have functionality.

Super Cat Me-3 is a radar detector, wouldn't surprise me if it is picking up interference due to different wavelengths used in Aus compared to Japan

It will have been done (has definitely been done many times on the ST162 and ST184 models), it is commonly called a GT2 (since it uses the GT4 engine but is only 2-wheel drive).

Depending on state regs etc, doing a ST204 might be harder than the earlier models since there are significantly fewer ST205s in the country (only 77 sold from new, and private imports thin on the ground, compared to the hundreds/thousands of ST185s) in which to get a donor engine from (or 205/215/246 Caldinas), and most engineering regulations have a statement somewhere along the lines of using an engine which is the same age or newer than the car you are installing it in to.

1) GXL is not the base-model. GX is the current base model (replacing the RV, which was the second-from-base previously), and the cheapest 200-series is the diesel GX @ $78,990

2) The Landcruiser has never been cheap - even a base Standard 100-series was $53k, and that was with 5 vinyl seats, non-turbo diesel and a hose-out interior

3) Base models (Standard/RV/GX etc) were generally bought by commerical buyers (mines, Telstra etc), the 75/85 series has been upgraded/modernised to fill this gap

4) For family buyers who still need to go off-road and carry a lot of gear, the Prado fills the gap.

Note - we don't tend to have model-specific meets - we are all-inclusive and having Camry-only meets (for instance) tends to create division and alienation within the club.