Hiro

Fixed...

RPF1s are the sort of wheel that never seem to look good in Photoshops etc (too "flat" and thin-spoked), but see them in real life and they are an awesome wheel.

I struggle to believe that a perfectly functioning wheel bearing would die purely from the heat of one hard stop from ~60km/h (you mentioned city traffic), even in a 2.5 tonne Landcruiser. I'd be much more inclined to believe the mechanic's view that the grease wasn't packed properly into the bearing and it has run dry, which would cause it to get very hot very quickly

Surprised you couldn't find a single-element bulb, I've seen plenty (my car needs dual-filament though). If you want a difficult bulb to find, try a T20 wedge parker (clear) light, they are easy to find in 20W (which are for indicators with tinted lenses) but seem non-existent in 5W (which explains why the filters on my parkers are melting :P)

21W will be the actual brake/stop light element, 5W will be the tail light element (aka the dim red light that comes on when your headlights are on) The 21 and 5 are referring to the wattage of the globe, so the brake light should be roughly 4 times brighter than the tail (21/5 ~= 4) OP: Is the replacement bulb you bought a dual filament bulb? Ian's comment got me thinking about mine as the Gen5 uses a 5W T10 for the tail light. I pulled out my stop light and it's a single filament T20-21W bulb. Difference between pre- and face-lift rear lights perhaps? (2004 was the changeover correct?)

21W will be the actual brake/stop light element, 5W will be the tail light element (aka the dim red light that comes on when your headlights are on) The 21 and 5 are referring to the wattage of the globe, so the brake light should be roughly 4 times brighter than the tail (21/5 ~= 4)

Meh waiting game sucks, lets play Hungry Hungry Hippos

That's the old Roadwarriors cafe isn't it? I'm always keen for more stuff north of Sydney, but it is a bit remote for most people and gets a lot of traffic from bikers

Almost Ian, I've always wanted a daily and a weekend toy,looked for a good AE92 for sure,but I caved 86 was my second choice.... Thoughts on selling the ZRE now?

So no adjacent secure apartment parking for Duy to lock himself into then?

Schnitzelhaus again? John needs to try more beer...

If you are referring to X-force Varex mufflers, then technically they are illegal and defectable too. Now before people kick up a stink and say that Aston/Ferrari/HSV etc all have variable exhausts, they are all automatic and not driver-controlled like the Varex is.

All Australian 2ZZs run the 6-speed C6x transmission (C60 in the Celica, C64 in the Corolla I believe)), not the 5-speed C52.

Or has he caved and bought another AE92 SX/GTi?

Yes, tinted tailights are illegal

Latest JayDeeEmm accessory: Doesn't seem to have memory so if it was running before you turn the car off it doesn't turn back on automatically when you restart (apparently it has some kind of learning function so maybe it just needs time)

ie

Market viability is the problem - Australia is not a large market, so bringing in exrta models will more than likely just drag customers away from existing Toyota models (or not, in the case of the Avalon for instance). Additionally, Australia already makes the Camry and Aurion (with government subsidies) for both the Australian and overseas markets, so it would not be financially viable to replace those models with imports from Japan (Altona would still need to exist to satisfy the Middle East market, and the SE Asia one too if it exports the "prestige Camry" (aka Aurion) there). You can imagine the outrage from the community and the business sectors if Toyota were manufacturing cars here for other countries but importing a similar/replacement model from Japan for the local market. In short: 1) Yes it sucks 2) It's not going to change any time soon

I'm fairly sure that all aftermarket HID installs (regardless of projector-type housings) are illegal and defectable if not fitted with washers and auto-levelling

There are a lot of alignment variables, just because one car is "out of alignment" doesn't mean it will behave exactly the same as another one. A car with excessive but even toe-out will feel different to one with excessive but even toe-in, and both will be completely different to one with mis-matched alignments left to right.

2) leads to 3) As for fuel in the lines, the last thing you'd worry about is rusting. Water is not combustible and can cause damage if it makes it to the engine.

FYI, GR-2s are called Excel-Gs here, might make searching easier.

Sucking up dirt and water etc when fuel level is low is an urban legend. Fuel pumps are always situated at the bottom of the tank, and petrol floats on water so if there was water in the tank the pump would suck it up regardless of the fuel level. In addition, even if dirt has settled to the bottom of the tank (cars make quite good agitators when driving so this would only be after a prolonged wait) then there is a sock on the fuel pump pickup AND at least one other fuel filter in the line before the fuel would reach the engine, thus preventing any kind of damage. The issue with running modern cars out of fuel is mainly three-fold: 1) Modern high-pressure in-tank fuel pumps are lubricated by the fuel itself. Run it dry and you risk overheating and damaging the pump 2) There isn't a "reserve" of fuel like a carby bowl, so the instant the fuel pump starts to starve, the engine will struggle and cutout, which leads to 3) Running the car almost out of fuel can create very lean combustion, which can damage the engine and the catalytic converter. There is nothing wrong with running a car down to the fuel light comes on, but pushing it any further is opening you up to the above risks. Once you drive your car alot you will learn just how much fuel is left once the light comes on and how far you can push it, but being so pedantic that you fill up the tank when it drops to 3/4 is just ridiculous, and technically will cost you money in the long run (perpetually full tank means more weight to carry around, which means poorer fuel consumption - not a lot, but it could add up over the life of the car)

Looking to get them fitted relatively soon as it's just ticked over 200,000km so timing belt will be coming up (yep that's right, a whole year after I bought them :P things move slow with my cars)

A couple of cuts on my hands, but the Snoarer now has a fully functioning, refurbished, non-bleeding HVAC LCD screen, complete with uber-cool blue button lights. Bit of a mission to fit it (had to split the unit in half so I could pair the new front screen unit with the old rear brains unit otherwise fan-speed didn't work and the dash air-temp display was blank) and in traditional fashion I ended up with one spare screw, but anyone who has ever owned a Z30 Soarer will know how good a new LCD unit is (as the stock ones always bleed)