Hiro

They've done that already, they just don't sell it here yet. Go look up the Genesis, and be amazed at how much Hyundai have advanced. Still don't like the iSore though....

Nah not the engine bay heat shield, the ones that sit above the exhaust and the cat in the transmission tunnel

I'd check the heat-shields first before singling out the resonator. Mine developed a rattle at very similar revs and it turned out the upper heat shield on the cat had snapped all but one of its welds.

Not sure on the exact features (came with the car), has the normal stuff like remote boot open (since the Soarer has electic boot release), multiple remotes, turbo timer, glass breakage etc, multiple zones etc etc...

Had semi-slicks on the old wheels :P R1R fronts and RA1 rears

18x8 +35 Speedy Cheetahs, 235/40/18 Kumho KU36s

Shiny washed car + shiny plates + shiny new wheels/tyres :D Crappy time of day for photos though...

Gave Lexi a wash and polish, shiny new wheels and plates now matched by shiny car :)

If there's no law, then explain how police in NSW and QLD have the authority to fine you and have it defined as a fineable offense in their documentation? Technically there is no law banning them, just one regulating when they can legally be used.

Headlights are easy after you've taken them out and put them back in probably a dozen times :P 1) Remove grille (3 screws) 2) Remove parkers (1 screw holding parker to body, then pull/push/lever the parker housing towards the front of the car to pop the clip) 3) Remove headlight (1 bolt on top, 2 bolts on side in parker housing cavity, then pull it up/forwards to pop the clip on the underside) Take some photos of the FXGT-style lights, if they are the sort I think they are then you'll have to re-do some of the wiring as they have indicators instead of parkers (JDM cars don't tend to have side repeaters on the guards like Aus-spec models do).

I vote keeping the BBSs 120%, they're one of my favourite wheels of all time and look perfect just the way they are. Then again I do prefer the slightly subtle/understated look that silver-on-silver provides.

Is that so? I never knew the vapour pressure of the fuel in the petrol tank had anything to do with fuel pressure after the pump. As far as I know, the fuel cap only has to be airtight to prevent fuel vapour emisions. Fuel tanks shouldn't have much in the way of vapour pressure (thats what the charcoal canister does, it scrubs out the extra vapours), and a properly functioning fuel cap has a one-way valve built into it to let air into the tank to compensate for the reduction in volume as you use fuel - the hissing is often the sound of air ENTERING the system when you crack the cap because the valve has gummed up.

No, we're being 110% serious Obvious sarcasm is obvious What's with the 200kW quoted in the specs by Toyota then? If it's 400++kW at the wheels, then Toyota must mean 200kW at the ...............? Italics means sarcasm....also, highlight all of my post I love hiding messages in white

Ordered new set of wheels for the Snoarer....anyone interested in some black 17x8 SSW SO93 Spiders?

Or just "tall bastards" like me - 6'2" and 105kg is definitely not the best frame for karting...

No, we're being 110% serious Obvious sarcasm is obvious

Down for karts

I'm more concerned about how much power it has at the rear wheels....

I could have swore closed loop was when the O2 sensor heated up(ECU controlled AFR) and open loop was when the car first started(determines fuel amount by coolant temp and MAP/MAF). Just remembering back to trade school. It'll probably run open-loop when warming up because the car will still be in rich cold-idle mode. Closed-loop is for normal cruising at temperature (as in the O2 sensor is providing feedback to the ECU), it gets ignored again (ie open-loop) and the ECU runs off pre-programmed maps when you go WOT.

Disconnected O2 sensor will make the car run crazy-rich in closed-loop mode (which is what you are in when you are pottering around town, it only goes to open-loop when you floor it), which would explain the heavy fuel consumption.

With any luck they'll drop the price on RE001s as a runout too, in case there are those out there who don't feel like stumping up $300-ish for brand new style tyres...

Here's hoping they come in 205/40/17 at a decent price...

When I come up for the National meet I'll show you what a 2 1/4" cat-back (extractors and 2" pre-cat) with hotdog and Lukey Ultraflow sounds like on a 7AFE :P

Nice, let me know how you go with wiring them up, I'm really fed up with the halos at the moment so looking to switch in the very near future...

Wouldn't exactly say an auto KE55 is "rare", ok maybe not as common as a Falcon or Commodore but it's not exactly a 2000GT either. Head over to Rollaclub, they're probably the biggest group of early Corolla enthusiasts in Aus.