Rosegum

Replaced the front struts on the weekend and found i had the same sort of mess, maybe worse, its everywhere. lucky for me my mates old man repairs cv's so it'll only cost me a carton of *****. I'm pretty sure the damage was done when i had to change the spare wheel on which didn't match the other side of the car.

seems to be mods and silvers with rights only would like to see though. Here in QLD were almost out of water

I've found that using urethane bushes for the swaybar, and a set of lowered springs and stiffer struts killed pretty much all the axle tramp i was getting from my old 626. It had an FE2T engine, 90Kw at the tread, but somewhere in the region of 280Nm's. With the stock suspension it used to bounce around like a maniac at the dump of a clutch, but after the changes it all turned to smoke I've never used urethane engine mounts but i'd hazard a guess that they'd increase rigidity a bit and save some power loss too. If not they should atleast last a little longer than factory spec.

I've been wondering for awhile if anyone has ever tried fitting a 16V GE head to a 2A Block? I'm about to strip down and rebuild a 2A that comes out when i change to 4A-GE. I really like the 2A, it's done me proud at many a set of lights. I've taken the engine well up into the high 7k rpm area and notice nothing more than what i call a wheasy head, this from an engine that is specified to redline at 5,600 rpm. It loves to rev, even with me behind the wheel spinning it to 7k day in day out for the last five years. The rings have finally given up so rebuild it is. If a bolt-on GE is possible, i'll spend some money on some tougher internals and maybe even a balancing, perhaps even a GZE option. this is to transplant into a lightweight kit car when i get round to building it.

Well i have finally received the engine complete with accessories and loom, unfortunately he didn't know what he was looking at and i now have a 4A-FE instead of the 7A. No real complaints as i'm guessing the bottom end will be alot stronger, and the change to a GE not so tricky. Thanks go to rthy as i have sourced new disc setups for front and back. should pull up really well now, not that i ever had complaints about the original setup, i've never had a problem pulling the car up even in extreme situations on the road, but this girl is heading for the track and the anchors need to be able to take a beating. Now work begins on ripping out the old carbed 1.3l and preparing the bay for the new engine. Will post pics in case anyone else gets keen on there own transplant. Also received the MegaSquirt V2.2 kit and MegaStim. After quite a few hours soldering i now have what appears to be a functional Electronic Fuel controller. Hooked up to the PC the ECU responds to all signals sent from the MegaStim, and also allows read/write ability to change Engine based variables and VE tables so for now all systems are go. Gotta find my bluetooth adapter so i can uploads some pics from my phone, will do so soon. Cheerz

get yourself a gregory's or assorted workshop manual for the car. They have complete schematics for the vehicle including wire colour codes.

If your doing white rims they have to be big, and look even bigger. as little rubber as possible. White on white is for the poser look, Black on white gives it a racer look but it also allows for smaller wheels, bigger tyres. softer ride.

Easy test is to pull the handbrake up as tight as you can get it, lift the revs to 1500 rpm, put it in first and let the clutch out real slow. If the engine stalls u're ok, If the clutch is on its way out the engine will drop revs but not die. You may have a warped plate though which can grip most of the time but slip when fairly hot. best to change the clutch in both situations.

Sms'ed a few votes in for ya, that woulda been a scary ride in a corolla a bit too much tail action for me. I was looking for trees not water!

Now that I have the AE112 I've decided to put a bit of life into the old AE80 and ebay'ed another 7A-FE and 5 speed Manual to swap in for the old 2A-C. I'm not expecting this to be the easiest of transfers. I'm keen on changing the head to make a 7A-GE but that's a little down the track. Going from the 2A-C's 48Kw and 97Nm to the 7A's 86Kw and 155Nm should be an interesting difference with the torque much lower down and much more power, it sits in current trim on the local weighbridge at 960Kg but i plan to remove alot of the interior and maybe fibreglass over. I've also built a megasquirt board V2.2 which i've tested with a stim and is mapped ready to run the engine. Tuning will still take awhile but i should be able to gain a reasonably efficient engine. RPM limiter has been set to 8K, over 7,400 from the standard ecu. I'm planning to post pics of the process and keep the topic up to date on my progress. I realise the larger percentage of forum users have much newer model corolla's but i believe the older model's are still incredible cars and deserve a decent mention somewhere here. O WAT A FEELIN

I've been thinking of doing the same thing but with ELF (electro luminescent film). I'm gonna do a bit more research and ill re-post. a rpm timer switch should be easy enough to rig to change between films, just need to pull a timing signal from the ecu, and adjust the switch point for preferred rpm. could whack in trim pots to adjust for different engine type. will keep everyone informed of progress.

Thanks heaps for the replies, so people know this is the first forum ive ever posted in. What i really want to do is keep the body shape stock'ish but extend the height of the original skirts, or get a skirt kit. Are there any kits anyone would recommend to give it a more stivo look?? Have added some audio equipment as well which includes: 1 Cadence FXA-604 60WRMS x 4 channel which feeds 2 x stock front door speakers(yet to change) 2 x Kenwood 6"x9" 3-way 250WRMS* (high pass at 350hz up) *(pffffffft!!!!!! lies) 1 Cadence FXA-102 100WRMS x 2 channel 4 ohm bridged mono 300WRMS x 1 channel (bridged in 4 ohm mono w/ low pass at 250hz) feeding Kenwood 12" in box (not sure what series sub will repost) rated at 200WRMS 1000W Max ** (** pfft again with the coil on fire perhaps!) apart from the fronts its a crisp tidy sounding system. and one more thing, can anyone recommend a good wreckers for ninetys to noughties toyota's? would be great to hear back for ideas on kits to suit and if anyone knows if i can get eyelids to suit. thanx heapz again

Well i've finally picked up a car worth showing here, i've been running around in an '83 AE80 5 door hatch which is headed off the road to be re-fitted with a 7a-fe i picked up, but that's for another time and place. I've purchased a '00 AE112R 5 door hatch with a 7a-fe 5 spd manual. It's racked up 193,000 clicks but i paid $7,500 cash. Factory mags were passed straight on to the old rolla and i haved fitted a set of 17"s and a set of sports ryder lowered springs, it's still sitting higher in the front which is bugging me. i might have to put even shorter springs in the front to counter it, anyone else had this issue? It has extractors (not sure how to identify brand) which feeds into a 2.25" cat back "sports" exhaust (seller wasn't much use when it came to info on additions to the car. I dumped whatever gluggy oil they'd been running in it and re-filled with Shell helix 10w-40 full synthetic, engine revs much free'er and dipstick is golden. also added a k&n air filter(standard airbox type) which seemed to have no effect (noise wise) from the front end but the exhaust now has a lovely rasp above 50% throttle. my interest turned love affair was born at the hands of danthuyer's snow flake the first person to show me "Lift" better not make this too long heres some pics any comments would be great

I'm hoping someone has an idea whether an efi plenum and manifold will bolt to a 2a/4a motor. ECU and MAF sensors aren't important(going aftermarket). If not ill carve up the old manifold and weld flanges to throttle bodies. And also the difference in cam profiles between the 2a and the 4a. The only part of the engine i haven't touched yet is the block. After 225,000km's it has in the last six months after a timing belt snap started to blow small soot at cold start. My intent for the engine is to strip to basics and replace as i go. Wish List 1295 -> 1190 - 1185cc re-sleeve'd block Slimmer decompressed pistons (not sure of exact dimensions, still alot of number crunching to do) Head shaved, ported and polished Titanium Valve springs Titanium valves & guides Lo-Comp Pistons peened conrods Ground and polished Crank Oversize sump twin GR28 BB turbo's Custom intake and plenum Custom pipework 2 3/4" Mandrel bent exhaust resonator and single Baffle the 2a motor that is in the vehicle at the moment revs to 7200rpm I'm aiming for around 9,000 - 10,000 RPM. Interior is super stock so i'm going to rip out the old dash, seats, carpets and Retrofit newer model interior or go my own way and design from scratch I will have pics as soon as i start the job, I am currently waiting on a 4A-FE to transplant as this is my daily driver. Engine will be first, then running gear Interior and body will be the last step I'm planning on stripping the car to the barest of basics and 1/4 Mile testing the engine. BONZA