Tony Prodigy

Hi Steve, my apologies as I've been quite busy and have not had much time to get on here. Regarding your 1.8 L, I couldn't tell you if it was underfilled or not. Not sure if the pan you have is the same as what's in the Aurion's U660E. If it is, then most likely it was underfilled or the fluid level was not checked correctly previously. You also need to have the vehicle level to do this procedure correctly too. When you do the pan drain and then go to refill through the fill hole, you always put more in than what you took out anyway because the excess will come out during the fluid level check at the appropriate temperature range anyway. Mine was never touched before this service, so the fill level was factory hence the 2.6L. The bulletin called for the additional 200ml, so the amount could vary between 2.6 and 2.8. You will be safe either way. Your next pan drain amount will be interesting to see.

Definitely not a performance car and was never designed or intended to be, but it's certainly no slouch with a 200KW V6 engine. The 2GR-FE pulls like a train and will out accelerate most cars on the road still today. Keep it well maintained and it will reward you with good power, fuel economy and longevity.

If you're handy, remove the cat and take a look inside to see if the mesh screen is obstructed and give it a clean anyway so it doesn't have to be done later and see if this cures the issue. From what I see in the data, It seems that the issue stems from the downstream section, hence my suspicions about the cat. It's throwing all the upstream hardware into chaos.

7.6lt/100 is seriously not an issue for a heavy rig. I don't know what you expect from a 2T vehicle that's probably laden too. I would've assumed a figure of around 12LT/100 would be the norm for something of that magnitude.

Hilarious. Remember the commercial ?? "Pedders,,,,, and No Bull" 🤣🤣 Good for you too for getting a second opinion.

Safety would be the first thing that comes to mind. Just check they are compatible with your vehicle. Check mating surfaces, offsets and wheel nut type. If in doubt, you could just swap them for an original set of Toyota alloys.

It's difficult to recommend any one specific scan tool because there are so many on the market now it's become crazy. I purchased an Autel Maxysis MS906BT a while back and it's an amazing tool, but very expensive. You won't need anything like that unless you plan to do a lot of work yourself. A decent scanner would probably be around $200 - $300 for what you need. Autel have many models to choose from and to suit your budget. Take a look online and see what takes your fancy.

Hard to diagnose electrical gremlins, but the first thing I'd do is run a diagnostic scan and see what pops up. You should see a fault code of some kind. It may point to what could be causing this issue. If you don't have a scanner, i strongly suggest you buy one. I think we all should have one seeing we live in the digital age where almost everything is driven by computers. Cheers, Tony

It appears you are correct. My apologies, I thought it was a workshop manual. I didn't have too much time to flick through the pages. After looking again, it appears to be the owner operator's manual. I'll post back if I find it. Sorry mate.

Finding workshop manuals for anything has become an exercise in futility. Ask me how I know so I feel your pain. I did, however come across this if it helps. You can't download the entire contents but it looks like a freely available copy for viewing only if you are willing to save and print each page which will take an eternity to do. https://www.manua.ls/toyota/hiace-2012/manual?p=13

Have you had a dealer check it out or enquire about it to them ? Sounds like a common issue.

Are you able to tell us from which general area the noise is coming from ? It's very hard to determine just by watching a video.

Just use standard 91 unleaded. Not 100% sure if the hybrid petrol engine is compatible with ethanol, but in saying that, E10 is really a false economy anyway. It is slightly cheaper, but has around 10% worse fuel economy compared to 91. It also doesn't store well either, so if the car is off the road for a prolonged period it can wreak havoc in the fuel system due to its hygroscopic nature. I avoid using E10. It's just another attempt by the left wing loonies at saving the planet by shoving this down our throat and taking away our choices. For example, there are a lot of service stations that have stopped supplying 91 and only have either E10, 95 or 98, so if you are budget conscious, you have no choice but to use the E10, if your vehicle is compatible, which is exactly what the loonies want you to do. If it isn't then you are forced to pay for 95 or drive off to find another petrol station. In some instances you can't. So in actual fact, you are being forced to buy E10 so they can continue perpetrating the false economy that it is. If you don't want the E10, then you have no choice but be bent over a barrel and pay the extortionate price that 95 and 98 can be, so put simply, just use 91 and have no part of the E10 nonsense.

I'd search out a local wheel restorer service. Usually, depending on how badly rashed it is, the rim would be machined to remove as much rash as possible without compromising the structural integrity of the wheel, then it will need repainting or powder coating. I suspect the cost of this service may exceed purchasing a brand new wheel from the dealer. Get a price for both. As much as I hate buying from a local dealer, they may just be the better option here. Your car is a 2020 model, so I would safely assume they will still have plenty in stock.