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ZZT86

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ZZT86 last won the day on March 26

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  • Toyota Model
    HachiRoku & GSV50R Sportivo
  • Toyota Year
    2013
  • Location
    Victoria

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    ZZT86

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  1. Initially I thought ABS or Traction Control intervening as a result of loss of traction or grip but you said normal slow down so now I'm unsure. Perhaps a video would help us assist ? I have heard of some recall issues with the Corolla Cross & operational anomalies with the Toyota "SafeTSense" system in general, the later may be what you're experiencing & what Toyota would class as a "normal characteristic" of the car 😉
  2. ^^ Perish the thought of Potenza Sports for your car, not available in your size. Get the RE003, good compromise of performance & grip, currently on special !
  3. Don't even bother with Michelins, they've priced themselves right out of this world & they're unlikely to be available anyhow. Yes they're good but way over priced. Bridgestone are as good a tyre if not better & more often than not you can get a set of 4 for your best price of 3. The RE003 are also supposed to be a good tyre, perhaps a little noisy though. I currently have the Potenza Sport which is as good if not better than the excellent Michelin PS4, certainly more grip even in wet, hard to break traction unless you really try. Not sure it's available in your size. One thing you need to remember - you usually can't have grip, longevity & cheap all in one tyre. High grip/performance tyres don't usually last long and aren't cheap but they may save your life one day 😉
  4. I feel your pain, it's a real shame that to all CHR owners. Have you tried the ACCC for a warranty claim based on a major failure even out of warranty ? The other suggestion is to change the oil far more often, like every 3,750-5,000 kms, especially if the engine gets less than 30min non-stop hwy/fwy driving at 80km/h or more at least once a week and/or does lots of short driving stints which causes the oil to quickly become diluted/dirty. These nasty oil vapours eventually finds its way to the air intake runners, tops of valves & piston rings caking everything up essentially ruining it's smooth operation - a bit like having cholesterol in your vains. This clip explains it well . . . . https://autoexpert.com.au/posts/can-additives-clean-my-direct-injection-engine?rq=direct injection
  5. Carbon buildup on valves & pistons is most likely a symptom of the direct injection layout/design. You would lessen the buildup if you did more highway kms, otherwise regular upper engine cleaning is required to maintain it. Really surprised Toyota went with this knowing full well DI is a big issue, hence them moving to D4S in some of their cars. Moral of the story - NEVER buy a direct injection only motor car unless you plan on regular proper maintenance which includes lots of hwy kms.
  6. I'm willing to bet my late 2016 Aurion Sportivo has the exact same strut so I know what you're talking about. It's a brittle ride quality specially engineered by brand T techs who couldn't be stuffed doing a proper job 😏 Fine on smooth surfaces but not so on the rough stuff. Good thing I spend most of my life on a fwy. You should be able to swap out the struts to the alternative spec being the usual soft ride but im not certain on your car. KYB website will tell you though or a Toyota dealer. Smaller wheels & higher profile tyres will help but will it be enough? Ideally change both but won't be cheap.
  7. Someone or something has popped it in. Stick your head under the bumper, you should be able to push it back into place. I can't remember but it should snap back into place. By shining a torch you should be able to understand what's going on & fix it yourself. Once in place sensor should work properly.
  8. That's it, make sure its seated correctly, and if it's damaged may not work properly & cause the symptoms you explain. If the sensor and/or the wiring is damaged, replace it.
  9. Hi Ash / guys, I actually have been liaising with Tony via email & I'm yet to reply to him as I have been busy myself. He did in actual fact report back very promptly that all is very well with his car, as I expected & as such have proceeded to do the work required which was done this Sunday 18th Feb just gone. I jacked up the car & leveled it off as best as I could but I can now see I was off by about 7mm lower in the rear after confirming the raised & on ground levels. My mate mechanic confirmed at the time that it's no big deal & makes little to no difference in the end. What I also confirmed after the pan drain was that only 1.5L came out ! I'm also 100% sure the red "straw" fitting was not screwed all the way in meaning a lower hold capacity in the pan? Anyhow, I was actually also gob-smacked as the oil started to pour out into the pan & then into my measuring bottle just how clean & red it looked for 98,149kms. So much so I was in two minds about pouring it back in & calling it a day for a while longer. But since I purchased this 20L drum of LV back in Feb 2021, I thought I better use it & just go through with the whole operation. I connected to the "return line" & commenced flushing about 1L at a time, using 2 identical bottles all measured up, 1 for old oil & another for new so that what came out goes back in. There was a 3rd 5L bottle with new fresh oil as it was easier to pour than the 20L drum. I kept notes of the whole process as I flushed out a total of 7.3L in 6 individual attempts. So all in all 8.8L of new fluid plus I added an extra 0.5L for the adjustment phase. I prepped for the adjustment by having an extra 1L on hand just in case nothing came out with tools also at the ready. I plugged in my new Autel MK808S scan tool which is virtually identical to Tony's & is the same model as my mate mechanic & confirmed A/T oil temp to be below 40C - it was in fact at 34.3C. According to the Toyota RM for the GSV50R using the intelligent tester, ie: laptop with Techstream or a scan tool, you are supposed to switch "TC and TE1" - ON before starting the engine, observing the dash lcd for "D" signal as you quickly cycle the tranny b/w N & D for 6 seconds or more. The "D" will light up for 2 seconds then go off completely, which it did. This causes the engine to go into fluid temperature detection mode. Then select "P" on tranny, release foot brake & on the scan tool switch "TC and TE1" - OFF. Doing this activates engine idle speed control mode which becomes active as soon as the oil hits 35C & at which point raises the engine idle speed to a constant 800rpm & keeps it there to precisely adjust oil temps until it's switched off, which it did on queue. I waited for 5 minutes for the oil to reach 40C & as soon as it did the engine fan came on precisely at the same time. I had the scan tool on the windscreen showing a custom list of parameters - coolant temp, engine speed, TC terminal on & A/T oil temp 1 on the same screen. Engine speed hovering about 800rpm, temps all looked ready. I quickly got under the car on my creeper, got my right shoulder stuck under there as it was a tight fit, lost the drain plug in the pan whilst draining, found it again, flow started to trickle & as such I closed it off with 41.2C on the screen. Piece of cake ! Oh, I added the final 200ml in the end as per Toyota Adjustment TSB as posted many times here by Ash. I didn't think the Aurion could get any smoother or quieter but it has. Despite the oil looking great for it's age, the shifts between all gears especially the lowest are impeccable, smoother, quicker change of gear, acceleration & deceleration. I'm really amazed at the 2GR/U660E masterpiece. You may as well call it an EV. So job done in the end, all that procrastination & worry of fluffing the tranny over nothing. As AMD suggests, I may very well re-check/confirm the oil level again in a week or two to be sure, but I've already driven about 150kms in my usual drive routes, hot & cold & it's really pleasing to see a great result thus far. What's also impressive is the Penrite LV oil, a virtual perfect full synthetic swap for the Toyota WS. I love it 🙂 Of course this wouldn't have been possible without the help of all the guys on this forum including Ashley for his persistent knowledge & Tony's for this informative thread. To you all , I thank you 🙂 One final note, I have owned this car since 28K kms & I fully understand its history & know that it has been driven sedately & babied all its life which allows me to get an excellent result with an AT fluid flush. As they say YMMV, especially if the history is questionable.
  10. @Tony Prodigy Hi mate, curious to know how your Aurions ATM is holding up after that fluid flush you did in October 2020 ? Same as pre-flush or different ? Need to do mine now . . . . . 😀 Also on your Autel scan tool did you select the Active Test item: "Connect the TC and TE1 / ON" ? I'm guessing not & just kept an eye on the temps & when in range go hell for leather ? Cheers 😉
  11. Another awesome detailed write-up - thanks for sharing 🙂
  12. I'm guessing it involves stripping down half the engine/sump & taking to it with a ******* load of diesel and/or solvent & loads of labor, hence $1200. On a different note, I saw some dude on bookface/whatever who posted up an image of his said Aurion which had almost clocked 900K kms ! Apparently a head gasket has given up the ghost & now it no longer drives, still a fair innings I would say. Oh what a feeling . . .
  13. @DuncDad Had a quick look, appears exhaust needs to be loosened right off as well as a splash shield to allow the sump to come out. I don't envy you though if you have to use sealer 😐 Highly recommend changing the oil filter before filling her up. Nasty damage that. Careful with the sealer, you don't want any excess breaking off clogging up the 2GR arteries.
  14. Yeah, after all Bezos needs the moula to fly to the moon & back whilst destroying our atmosphere . . . . 🙄
  15. Exactly what I thought initially. I'm new to Amazon & when I spoke to them about it they said they had to instill quantity purchase restrictions because of popularity. These come individually or in packs of 4 so what I did was placed 2 orders 1 week apart for 4 & that's what I got. The restrictions are fine if you have a 4 or 5 cylinder car but not for 6 & beyond. Still I'm grateful with the outcome as it wasn't as pricey as it could have been.
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