ZZT86

@Novicebutnice dribble a few drops of the used stuff on that paper towel you got right there for us to get a look of the colour. Looks a bit cherry red on the sides of the bottle which is a good sign.

Struth ! Not cheap. Having said that, once every 60K kms is much cheaper than a new auto transmission. Well done for looking after your car 😉

Sacrilege ! The elements over in parts of the US also don't do it any favours externally.

Excessive blow-by or as you have been trying to rectify what seems like forever, sludge blockages/buildup. Must be very annoying I'm sure, I feel your pain.

I presume an aftermarket switch.

Just to clarify the idea is to add it to the used oil about to be dumped, run it for 15 minutes @ idle, I like to take it for a drive around the block about 15 minutes @ light throttle to wash it well with the extra pressure. Park it then dump the oil, let it drain till nothing comes out then re-fill with new oil. No need for multiple drains & fills. What I did in the past on my old celica was to flush every main service which was every 10K kms but always changed the oil every 5K kms. On the Aurion I'll do every 7.5K kms (full synthetic) as I know it makes a difference. The celica did 325K kms since new following this procedure and always used the same oil which was Helix 10W30 or HX7. The 2ZZ-GE engine was bombproof & never used a drop of oil. That was my way, yours could be a variation of this, all up to the individual of course.

Sorry - Engine Oil Flush. 3 letters is easy but hard sometimes I know, especially on a mobile phone.

A Toyota tech I know once told me that an OCI of 5K KMS should be adhered to if you want to maintain an engine in top condition for the long haul, he also recommended the use of an EOF even when car is new 😉 clean oil is the key despite the advancements in now common use full synthetics.

Tony, have you tried to see if these work for the "famous ATM bolt" ?

As per OP clip, I also concur with the use of an Engine Oil flush additive before dumping & changing the engine oil, on the proviso that the engine is in good to excellent condition to maintain internal engine cleanliness. And although he crows on about the greatness of the Signature Amsoil brand of oils (also concur with his sentiment), a good quality branded full synth oil changed out often will suffice. I wouldn't be swapping out the recommended weight oil for something much lighter though, certainly not against manufacturers recommendations anyway.

Interesting. Is there any oil in the line going to the intake ?

Have you thought about headlight covers &/or even a bonnet guard ?

This reminds me that I will soon be doing my first Aurion ATM fluid dump/flush, just waiting for a bit more warmth whilst the car slowly creeps up to 60K kms. I was also curious to ask if anyone had ever downloaded ATM fluid temps readings from OBD after a drive to gauge typical drive temp patterns ? I will be doing this soon as it warms up a bit just to see what the tramsmissions normal operating temp is & bechmarking it against the "Cadogan" theory above aswell as a table Ash has previously posted up on ATF change intervals vs usual expected run temps.

Next thing you know Tony is happily making AMD style YouTube clips for us all to enjoy 😉 May the lord bless you & keep you 👍 ps: xclnt detailed writeup as always

Brad, I called it as I saw it. Either the engine has a problem causing the oil to sludge up like a blown/leaking head gasket or the PCV isn’t working OR the engine has been incorrectly serviced for too long. No malice intended & not trying to be nasty. I recently swapped over to my Aurion from a 19 yr old MCV20R Camry with the 1MZ-FE, essentially the same car as yours & it ran like clockwork with no engine issues, despite not having an ideal service history for less than 80K kms when I got it, but the oil always stayed clean even after 7,500kms. I loved that car. My old highly strung ZZ celica with a higher tech motor than the 1MZ had almost 350K kms & the engine was like new, although that car had an oil change every 5K kms since new. An engine shouldn’t sludge up like that if it has been well looked after with quality semi or full synthetic oils unless there is another underlying issue.