ZZT86

When you accelerate weight transfers from front to rear & also when you corner the rear suspension does a lot of work. I would suggest replacing all 4 struts for safety's sack. 😉

Mr ONR reminds me of Gandhi only with a silver beard & fancy suit . . . let us know what you think of it Tony.

Clock spring is working fine ? Fly by wire / electronic stepper motor throttle body ? No codes, weird, sounds like ecu.

Yep it's loose ! Will have to check one day when we start to defrost down here :| I can remember Hyundais Excel dropping front wheels due to poor suspension tower/body welds, needless to say there was a safety recall out for those. Toyota is far more advanced in design & engineering, they have little to fear from the HMC in the short term.

My opinion is that they're a fairly silent motor when up to normal temps, especially considering that it's chain driven.

Oh, so there's a science to it ? Well bugger me, I may have to study this in more detail to see if it actually works by adding that capful & by watching what's going on in the bucket as I rinse. Interesting. 👍 Please keep us posted ;)

@A Indian Has a Sportivo if you purchased from a dealership then you should have gotten the statutory 3 month warranty with that. Get your car checked ASAP & if there's a problem, get them to pay for it. I would insist you find your own trusted/competent mechanic to do repairs if needed.

I know Optimum for it's ceramic coating & I've heard of ONR but seriously it's not a product I would ever consider using on a dirty, muddy car. Note how slow, time consuming & careful Mr Forensic was using it & if he misses a spot he risks dragging that dirt all over the clearcoat potentially scratching it. And despite using one for years as part of a 2 bucket system for washing, I'm not convinced 100% of the dirt drops into & stays below the grit guard, it's bound to be swashed around the bucket as you dip the wash mitt into to it as you rinse several times before the next pass on your paint. I guess there's always a risk of contamination no matter what you do & nothing's a perfect system. Perhaps OK if you're out in the middle of the dessert & desperate to wash your car otherwise ONR might be best left to quick detailing for me 😐 Keen to hear of your findings Tony 😉

Thanks for the recent posts/suggestions guys. Tony, I have already reset up/down limits on the glass as per Toyota Service Manual. Might have another look at it as they are a complicated sucker with CANBUS yada yada, gone are the days of easy simple servicing, you need a computer to talk to computers to talk to humans it seems 😐 My man @ Toyota told me no faults with 50series cars, rock solid & no recalls or TSB especially for glass. My car was virtually spotless when I bought it late last year with 28.5K kms (reason why I pounced on it) so I'm a little surprised to notice this issue tbh. The switch is my first go to likelihood cause of fault (pita to check), window is also rotating slightly forward/back as it's going up/down which also prompted me to look at the glass fixture as I've seen loose glass on my dads ACV36 Sportivo do stupid stuff. I will have a look at it one nice sunny day & see what the go is. We all know that Toyota usually over-engineer their cars & engines which makes them bombproof, satisfying to drive and own but I will have to agree with Adam on the Hyundai/Kia smartening up their act comment. I drove a Cerato hatch a while ago & I was pleasantly surprised at the brilliant suspension setup (done locally), great brakes, half descent interior given base model, very good/smooth torque converter 6sp ATM mated to a simple & basic 2L/4pot engine. Apart from a harsh under engineered engine, it was a satisfying, quiet, smooth, solid & refined car worthy of consideration. Kias 7 years warranty appears the icing on the cake. Having said all that, I love my Aurion 🙂

Aside from the 1st gen cars (celica) with the faulty cam bolts, the 2ZZ-GE is generally bombproof if well looked after.

Fuel quality ? High Ambient air temps ? Is the oil level OK & clean?

Yeah the kit comes with an abrasive pad. I'll just try it a few more times, it's definitely improved/cleaner but etching still visible. Ceriglass looks like Jiff 😕

Why ? In what way ?

Has it ever been involved in an accident ? Symptoms you describe are usually result of poor repairs.

If "Lift" doesn't activate @ about 6000rpm or fails to activate at all fair chance the locating cam bolts have snapped which means you don't get the hydraulic oil activation. Make sure you have a well maintained engine with proper/ontime OCI. Poor oil servicing will also give you poor VVT hydraulic activation.