DKzr6

F*CKIN OATH! I was lined up to buy a Lib H6 spec.B before the AUrion, but it fell through & dad convinced me to get Aurion. Regretted it every single day since. GT's were good, manuals are rare(ish) and get alot more money used, ej20 engines were getting a little old though, but H6 engines (flat 6cyl) are as sweet as all heck, 3.0L, 180-90kw, AWD, 6spd manual gearbox, premium models with leather & sunroof are faultless & Mackintosh 13 speaker stereo tops it off. I was getting a 2005 model with 40k on the clock for $30k, so you can get newer & lower kms for a little more. The 6spd auto has sportshift (alot better than Aurions) and the newer ones get i-Drive from the Sti's...very nice. If you get the wagon the sunroof is massive, from the driver to just behind the rear seat passengers. Ah cr@p...........now I want to trade in the Aurion for one again. meh Liberty is not that great. I traded my 06 3.0R Spec B on the ZR6. My main issues were - the car is small - it is a medium sized car and at 6'3" i could never really get comfortable in it. Second issue was that they had to replace the engine 3 times in 60,000km. i purchased the car new and it consumed copious amounts of oil from day 1. If i didn't top up the oil between services the engine would run dry. Have a read of the subaru forums and look at how many people seized their engines because the engine consumed the oil. There was a design issue with the engine which caused oil to get past the rings. I was on the third engine which still consumed oil when i traded the car. Having said that we have a 2006 Outback for my wife which hasn't had any issues at all since purchased new. Aurion is a more comfortable cruiser and has better acceleration, Spec B was a better all round performer but had a nasty torque hole between 1500 - 3000rpm. ANyway that's my 2c. wow u were unlucky hahaha maybe its the driver!? i am on several subie forums and havent heard of anyone blowing engines. u really shoulda got the 2.0/2.5 Turbo. yeah at 6'3" u should be in a kluger or prado. i find that the aurion too big and i cant judge how close the car is to the kerb. whereas in the liberty u have a way better feel. maybe im just not used to the aurion yet? or maybe i should lower it :) the build quality on the subies are really really good. pity it doesnt have the features of the presara and is such a premium. liberty sti's are not near 40k are they? if u go for a TRD its got to be 3500SL. Ummm no - i don't think its a driver issue. Here is a thread which lists 25 different people, all with oil consumption problems. http://www.mrtperformance.com.au/forums/sh...rty+consumption These were all H6 engines. There are even more in the 4cyl 2.5 section.......Do a search on the same forum

F*CKIN OATH! I was lined up to buy a Lib H6 spec.B before the AUrion, but it fell through & dad convinced me to get Aurion. Regretted it every single day since. GT's were good, manuals are rare(ish) and get alot more money used, ej20 engines were getting a little old though, but H6 engines (flat 6cyl) are as sweet as all heck, 3.0L, 180-90kw, AWD, 6spd manual gearbox, premium models with leather & sunroof are faultless & Mackintosh 13 speaker stereo tops it off. I was getting a 2005 model with 40k on the clock for $30k, so you can get newer & lower kms for a little more. The 6spd auto has sportshift (alot better than Aurions) and the newer ones get i-Drive from the Sti's...very nice. If you get the wagon the sunroof is massive, from the driver to just behind the rear seat passengers. Ah cr@p...........now I want to trade in the Aurion for one again. meh Liberty is not that great. I traded my 06 3.0R Spec B on the ZR6. My main issues were - the car is small - it is a medium sized car and at 6'3" i could never really get comfortable in it. Second issue was that they had to replace the engine 3 times in 60,000km. i purchased the car new and it consumed copious amounts of oil from day 1. If i didn't top up the oil between services the engine would run dry. Have a read of the subaru forums and look at how many people seized their engines because the engine consumed the oil. There was a design issue with the engine which caused oil to get past the rings. I was on the third engine which still consumed oil when i traded the car. Having said that we have a 2006 Outback for my wife which hasn't had any issues at all since purchased new. Aurion is a more comfortable cruiser and has better acceleration, Spec B was a better all round performer but had a nasty torque hole between 1500 - 3000rpm. ANyway that's my 2c.

Hey, Why destroy the front factory speakers to fit the new ones? That sounds a little extreme. I was able to remove mine without damaging them. Did they use the factory speaker frame to mount the new ones onto the car. They should have amde a custom MDF mount.

AGE - 33 SEX - Male STATUS - Married REASONS FOR BUYING - Wanted something different and slighly bigger than my last car. In order i have had a 94 EF Falcon, 95 Pulsar SSS, 95 EF Falcon, 99 AU Falcon S, 2000 Falcon S, 2003 BA Falcon XR6, 2003 Subaru Impreza RS, 96 Liberty 3.0R Spec B purchased together with 96 Outback 2.5i for the wife, and now the ZR6 - still have the outback. After owning 5 falcons, i found that each model got progressively worse when it came to build quality and service. Subaru have excellent service and cars. I loved my Spec B Liberty but i wanted something bigger, so i sold it and purchased the ZR6. I love the Zr6, it looks good, and handles better after the suspension mods, however its definately not a keeper!! The Zr6 doesn't feel like it would go the distance, after 35,000k's it feels a lot "older" than my Liberty did after 60,000k's. If Subaru make a larger liberty type car, i'll buy it in a heart beat - but i don't think that will happen. Will probably look at a new Ford G6E Turbo next year. Even though the quality will most likely be crap compared to the Toyota or Subaru, there is nothing like a big rear wheel drive sedan with heaps of power!!!

I also had the dreaded dash rattle. I told my dealer about it and the said they would order the clips in. While waiting, i got sick of the rattle and fixed it myself. I noticed the noise was coming from the top of the dash where it meets the bottom of the windscreen. Rather than pulling the entire dash out i did the following. 1. Removed the two speaker (tweeter grilles), purchased some sticky backed foam strips in black (the stuff you get from bunnings to unsulate door jams). Stick two strips along the bottom edge of the grille where it meets the windscreen. Re-insert the grill. 2. Go to clark rubber and purchase some 2mm perforated rubber matting. Cut a long strip and double it over. Push the rubber strip along the length of the dash in between the windscreen and the dash. This puts a little downward pressure on the top of the dash and eliminates the rattle. If you push the rubber down far enough you wont be able to see it. I did this about 6 weeks ago and have not had a single creak, squeak, of rattle from my dash - hot or cold. Toyota called me to bring the car in as the clips had arrived, but i decided not to bother, they are more likely to damage something else in the process of the repair. ( I don't have too much faith in some of the people they employ to do the work). If you have the rattle in the centre console, simply unclip it upwards and then cover the clips in some of the sticky backed foam strip and push the console cover back down, works perfectly. (its basically all toyota will do anyway). So far so good. Car is tight and completely rattle free.

A good place for the antenna is inside the dash behind the clock on top of one of the A/C vents. The no GPS error sounds like the unit isn't set up correctly. Try to enter the GPS setup within the program and make sure that COM port 2 is selected. Also a baud rate of 4800. So now that your Aurion is gone - whats your next car?

Your problem sounds like the installer hasn't installed it correctly. There is a wire coming out of the back of the unit that is supposed to be connected to the hand brake switch. This allows the dvd to play only when the car is stopped. You can connect the wire to an earth behind the dash instead of the handbrake switch and you will be able to play dvd at any time. If this wire isn't connected correctly or to a good earth, you would get exactly the problem you describe.

heheh, yep i did exactly the same thing. Didn't remove the transit screws.

Never ever ever buy a new ford model just after release. I speak from experience...... Bought an EF when they came out in 94 - nothing but problems Bought an AU when they came out in 1999 - it had so many electrcial faults that FORD actually wrote it off as unrepairable, and replaced it with a new AUII. Bought a new BA XR6 when they came out in Dec 2003 (maybe 2002 - cant remember) it was 3 months after the release of the BA - It had fault after fault. It was towed back to the dealer 16 times in the first 12 weeks. Started with random electrical faults, which lead to dead gearbox, powersteering, not starting, not accelerating etc. Sold it after 40,000km Well as far as ford is concerned 3 strikes and you are out. Another thing to note - and anyone who has had the misfortune of dealing with ford Service will know - no matter what goes wrong with your car - you will be met with the standard response "It's within tolerance, and they all do that, so there is nothing wrong with it" Had a liberty 3.0R-B for 2 years which wasn't perfect but still an excellent car, and now the Aurion which is light years ahead of the Falcon in terms of reliability and build quality. In 30,000km only 2 minor issues with the Aurion which were fixed immediately under warranty. If you have to buy a car now - buy the TRD, if you can wait 12 months, go for the series 2 falcon.

Congrats on the new car. My previous car was a Liberty 3.0R spec B. Was a great car but you are not missing much. Aurion goes much better, in a straight line at least. :P Did you take it to STI (Theres one in here in Melbourne @ docklands) for a performance tune? makes the car just over 200kw nice increase in torque heaps more responsive. I live in Sydney so i didn't get a chance to take it down for the tune. There was a lot of talk on the Subaru forums about the STI tune. There were some good results. In the end i wanted a bigger car. If Subaru ever make an Aurion sized car or make the liberty bugger - i'll buy another...

Congrats on the new car. My previous car was a Liberty 3.0R spec B. Was a great car but you are not missing much. Aurion goes much better, in a straight line at least. :P

Depending on how you look at it, i don't think the seek buttons on the wheel are wrong. If you use an ipod, and you want to skip to the next song you click on down, so you do the same with the steering wheel buttons on the Auspack Unit. Normally with music - cd or ipod, you read "down" the list. It seems logical that you would press down to go "down" the list of music. Up to go back. Likewise with the radio - you start at the top of the screen with the presets, and then scroll down the list, using the down arrow. Seems logical to me.

You can play DVD's anytime with it provided you earth the wire on the stereo which is supposed to connect to the handbrake. The factory one costs over $3000 i think. You can play DVD's anytime with it provided you earth the wire on the stereo which is supposed to connect to the handbrake. The factory one costs over $3000 i think. Yes just make sure cops don't see you driving with a DVD playing othewise you can get booked. Its a safety feature for it to be connected to the handbrake, but really silly IMO. I have yet to do it for my Kenwood HU, ive been to happy with my sub and playing music only so far.... Looking to get a Digital TV tuner for the car, so late night cruises on the weekend I can tune into ABC Rage :) Sorry, No experience in Audio at all.. So the Normal Discs slot [Not the GPS] can actually play a Dvd? There is only 1 Disc slot. It can play CD/DVD/MP3/WMA. The GPS software is installed on a 1gb SD card which is located in a slot in the front of the Nav Unit. THere is also a USB connector on the front of the unit.

I doubt they will replace them under warranty since you have modified them.

I had this problem when i first got my ZR6. I didn't put HID's on my car. Toyota replaced the headlight under warranty. It shouldn't have any condensation in it according to them.

Everything still works as it used to. All steering wheel buttons and display features. You don't lose any functionality at all.

What happens with the ZR6? It doesn't have a key to put in an out of the ignition to perform the programming sequence!

Would be nice to be able to install TomTom onto the unit ourselves (it uses WinCE right?). Route66 looks kinda crap to me compared to the Tomtom. Anyway I probably will get a professional to install it. The cabling seems kinda hard for me to manage around the car. BTW does $899 include the rear camera and maps as well? I like the Route 66 Maps. I used to have a Navman and i think the Route66 maps are better. Not sure if you can use TOM TOM maps in it. Yes the $899 does include the maps and the camera. You get everything you need for $899, maps, antenna's, cables, camera. You don't need to buy anything else. It all comes in the box.

Hi, I'll take a photo of it playing CD this weekend. When playing CD it displays a TOYOTA Logo with CAMRY written below. (the new units shipping now won't say camry - they will only have a toyota logo on it. ) The track number, time etc are displayed across the screen. If you play an MP3 disk, it shows a track listing, so you can select the various tracks. Yes the unit is responsive, it takes approx 1 second to change modes. The only exception is DVD - when you select DVD, it cache's the data as it takes approx 5 seconds to start playing - there is a progress bar displayed while this happens. Screen has perfect visibilty from all seats in the car. I'm very happy with the sound quality, running through my amp it is way better than the factory unit. Generally i'm very pleased with the whole unit.

You can play DVD's anytime with it provided you earth the wire on the stereo which is supposed to connect to the handbrake. The factory one costs over $3000 i think.

Takes approx 5 mins to pull the fascia out. There are no screws for the trim. Just Clips. You pull the top air vents forward. You pull up the centre console starting under the lid of the centre armrest. Then there are 4 bolts which hold the stereo/aircon controls in place. Once you undo the bolts the whole unit comes forward and out. You then need to separate the aircon controls (couple of screws). Then the do the reverse to install the new one. There is no factory wiring for the camera. I ran the cabling for the sat nav antenna, tv antenna and camera to the back. The satnav antenna and tv antenna are on the real parcel shelf behing the headrest so you cant see them. The reverse camera wiring goes into the boot via a hole in the frame of the car behind the top of the rear seat. The cable comes out right next to the boot hinge which is ideal for running the cable into the boot lid. Takes around an hour to install the cables. I ran the cables down the left side of the car and clipped it in with the toyota wiring loom. If you are not specifically looking for the extra wired you wouldn't know they are there. To access the left side wiring just pull up the scuff plates in each door opening, the pull outwards the b pillar bottom trim, You then have access to the wiring from front the back. ITs Easy.

$899 + Delivery from Auspack Services.

Hi Guys, As discussed in the other thread here are some pics of my install with the various screens. Things to note: ALL the steering wheel buttons work perfectly. The display button for the trip computer works normally. Volume, and Up/Down buttons work normally. The mode button cycles between the various stereo functions ie. Radio, CD DVD, TV, Bluetooth etc etc. The TV function works OK once you tune it. When you move the car into a different area, you may have to fine tune it each time. Doesn't really keep a stable picture while driving. (to be expected for tv though. Wouldn't watch while driving anyway) You don't need to spend any extra money at all. It comes with camera, tv antenna, sat nav antenna, all wiring. I did however buy a different camera from ebay. The camera it comes with is an excellent quality night vision camera, it does fit in the factory mounting hole, but the angle points a little too low. ie. could see my rear bumper and tow bar and about 50cm back from the car. Because of its size you can't angle it up any higher. I purchased a smaller camera ($35 ebay) which allows a higher angle and more vision. See pics below. You guys may be able to work out a better way to mount the included camera. The ebay one is not a night vision camera but works on 2 lux light. The included camera is way way better in the night that the ebay one i purchased. The ebay one is the same quality during the day, but has much more flexability for angle adjustment. Like its already been mentioned, the beeping can get annoying so if you want to get past that, you should install an AMP and run the units pre-outs into the amp. The sound is a lot better. I have eclipse 6x9's all round with an amp. sounds superb. Overall i'm really happy with the unit and the service from Auspack Electronics.

I purchased the one from Auspack Electronics last week. Was going to take photos this weekend and start a new thread. Anyway its absolutely perfect. Picture quality is amazing. It is Plug and play to a certain degree. You will need to wire in the reverse camera, the power for the tv antenna, and the handbrake switch (which you can just earth so the DVD works all the time). The steering wheel buttons all work perfectly too. There is a factory harness adaptor which it comes with so it simply just plugs in. DVD, NAV, Radio, Reverse Camera, USB, etc all - Brilliant Ipod interface works perfectly, however the screen colours used are not to my liking. Hard to read the playlist. Sound Quality varies depending on how you wire it up. If you just connect is per the factory wiring that it is supplid with, it sounds like the factory stereo which is still ok, However It also beeps everytime you press a button or touch the screen - gets annoying. I wired mine up to my amp as it has RCA outputs. Sound is fantastic - couldn't be happier. The beep is also eliminated when you wire up via an amp. (the unit also has an AMP trigger wire to switch your amp on and off). Screen resolution is best i've seen in a car. 1440 hi res is correct and it is viewable from any angle in the car. Even from the front with no loss in picture quality. I would recommend this to anyone thinking about it. I'll post photos over the weekend.

That's what I think as well, because one of my friend said that, once you change it to 20" it makes your car higher (which doesn't make sense to me) and you need to lower the car (which I don't want) If the wheel is bigger, why would you need to lower the spring? the wheel being bigger means, yes, that the car sits higher but also means the top of the wheel will be closer to the wheel arch. Lowering it will just make it worse. I don't really get your logic. You wont "need" to lower it. However..... a 20" rim with a low profile tyre will give the illusion that the car is higher than normal. This is because the profile of the rubber is smaller than the actual gap between the wheel and the wheel arch. The car will actually look higher. On the standard wheels, the tyre profile is larger than the gap so it looks ok. As a general rule of thumb - the gap between your wheel and wheel arch should always be LESS than the profile of the tyre. The car just looks wrong otherwise. The lower the profile of the tyre the lower you may have to lower your car to keep it looking balanced. Look at my car for example. 18" wheels and lowered a little. Makes the wheels look bigger than they are. Most people think they are 19's.