campbeam

37 minutes ago, Stepy said:

My 2004 cvx just blew the engine cylinders I had it 8 years got it to 348,000 before it died bought it at 144,000 I unfortunately never serviced it in that time and only ever did one oil filter change about 6 years ago it never gave me a day of grief just wish I looked after her won't make that mistake again will always service my cars 

I am going to THANK YOU for sharing this hard won bit of personal experience. At least you have learnt from that oversight. Looks like you were just topping up the oil so sort of surprised that the engine lasted that long before oil starvation spelt its doom.

Later engines i.e. 2GR-FE need to be properly serviced with regular oil changes to reduce the high potential for oil sludge accumulation.

A lot to be said for the proven old school approach of an oil change every 5000 kms, as a general guideline.

2 hours ago, Rooty said:

Probably OBE by now, but simply go to a junkyard and get some seatbelts (cut off the straps) and then just clip the metal ends into the seatbelts in your car.  No mods needed and can be removed at ease if you want them to use for people.

An alternative would be a seat belt extender such as this design.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/294388203462?hash=item448ae77fc6:g:bAwAAOSw-qxhOtnz

This eBay listing for " 2x Universal Safety Seat Belt Clip Buckle Locking Alarm Stopper Strap Clamp" does contain photos. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284228056534?hash=item422d4ff5d6:g:lvoAAOSwt5tgXT~p

I got an email from eBay advising earlier today advising that only 10 items were available. 

6 hours ago, Lynny said:

 What is my best action to take from here?

I am not sure what you meant by "shuttered". Does the engine start but is not idling smoothly?

Check the air filter and confirm that it is dry. If it is wet then potentially water could have been drawn into the engine potentially causing a hydro-lock and damaging the engine.

Next step would be to contact your insurance company and discuss. If the vehicle is drivable they may want to inspect the vehicle or have you take it to a Toyota dealership for their inspection. 

A quick Google search produced 2 of the following results

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1142028032

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11420-28032-Toyota-OEM-Genuine-CRANKCASE-ASSY-STIFFENING-/324120179647?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#shpCntId

Recent eBay find was this Nulon Engine Oil Flush 300ml for $12 including free postage.

There is also a 15% discount code for February 2022 (expires today 23.02.2022). So about $10 if you are quick.

Current comparison price at Auto Stores is $17

Have you recently checked the ATF level with the engine running?

Which ATF did you use?

Did you also change the transmission filter?

What is the odometer reading?

No experience with diesel engines.

However, I had a similar experience with my (now gone) 1998 Camry. After looking at some YouTube videos, I ended up having to clean the idle control valve and the throttle body which had not been done for many years mainly because I did not know.

1 hour ago, AurionX2 said:

Couldn't have said it better, Tony :))))

Well, my 2008 Aurion vvti pi$$ poor P.O.S. rubber oil line is holding up well, 212.000+kms, 14 years and counting. Taking bets, eh?

You have done well so far but you are on the losing side of that bet. It will happen. There was also a service bulletin back in 2008 or so where that rubber section was initially replaced with a higher grade rubber. If that was done there might be a sticker on the driver's door opening near the dashboard.

VVTi line in my Oct.2006 Aurion lasted just short of 10 years and 180,500kms; replaced 01.10.2016. Since doing that job, I have bought a few tools for working in tight places. Great learning experience but at the time it was highly frustrating.

First hint that I got that something was wrong was when the low oil pressure warning light briefly flashed one evening. Saturday morning I checked the dipstick, oil was very low on dipstick so refilled the engine oil. Also checked under the car and there were no tell tale signs of an engine leak. When I arrived at the girlfriends place, 15 kms later, I have a massive oil leak flowing down the driver's side of the engine. Fortunately, I had already done my research and preparation including having the parts already on hand.

Also after removing that VVTi line, I could not see the pin hole leak in that rubber section. So it is amazing how much oil flows out under pressure from just a pin hole leak.

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I know very little about your Hybrid RAV so will be looking forward to your future posts. 

Perhaps you could share some of your likes and dislikes about it. Talk about the quirks and features etc..

Anyways, feel free to post and I'm glad you shared a photo too. Some never do, but that's ok.

Welcome to the Forum. Similar to Tony I am looking forward to your future posts.

I think that you will find it worthwhile to do posts about your experiences and be able to look them up at a later time to refresh the memory. I have found my past posts to be complementary and more informative than the service spreadsheet that I maintain for my vehicles.

Never owned a RAV4 or Prado but I have noticed how the size of the RAV4 has grown over the years.

Just happened to be driving beside a RAV4 and was thinking that the length is now very similar to my Aurion.

On 2/11/2022 at 2:58 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

The dry phosphate coat doesn't really bother me to be honest, but you can just oil them up and wipe with a cloth and this can improve the look of them.

Thank you for the idea. It got me thinking of giving those sockets a spray with WD-40 or equivalent then assess the results.

Ended up giving the loose set of 12 sockets a ligh coating of olive oil which gave them a dark black appearance, then warmed them up in a moderate oven. Afterwards I did use the paint pens to mark their size so it is readily visible. Looking good for a final coat of clear.

For a few years, I have been using the cheap oil filters mostly sourced via eBay from a number of different sellers.

Just be aware that filters are cheaper for a reason. There is a YouTube video by Toyota demonstrating the difference in quality of the filter material used compared to a cheap counterfeit copy. The Toyota branded filter was more effective in removing the introduced contaminant than the counterfeit one. They also made mention of the amount of filter material being used. At least you can visually compare the number of pleats between the different brands whether the same as original or fewer.

Main difference that I have noticed is to what extent the filter material resists being compressed in the housing. After use, some filters have a slight twist in their filter material.

I did note that one China brand/manufacturer did specifically recommended that the filter cartridge be changed at 5000 kms.

This suits my purposes because most of my driving is short distance and my oil change interval is every 2-3 months.

The expected news that the Camry V6 would be discontinued was released back in December 2020. To be axed after the 2021 facelift. 

https://www.drive.com.au/news/toyota-camry-v6-dead-in-australia-axed-with-2021-facelift/ 

I do keep looking at the traffic for these recent Camry V6.

Definitely would like to have one but not prepared to part with the required $$$.

Unfortunately, most times those recent Camrys with a dual exhaust that I do see are the 4 cylinder RZ model.

The Car Nut released a YouTube video back in July 2021 reviewing Toyota's updated 2GR-FKS 3.5L engine talking about improvements and some common problems. 

I particularly liked how he included photos of the earlier 2GR-FE to outline the changes and improvements in the 2GR-FKS engine. Interesting how engine design changes have reduced the required engine oil capacity from 6.4 US guarts to 5.8 i.e. 6.05666 litres to 5.48885 litres. Also how Toyota waits until engine designs get proven before adopting updated/revised components. 

I also interpreted his commentary as further proof why the 2GR-FE requires regular engine oil changes to keep the engine internals clean including the VVTi system to avoid common problems. 

I previously noticed in Wikipedia that for the U660E transmission, there is a difference in the final drive ratio.

I cannot recall precisely but there could be be some slight variation in the gear ratios for a fewq of the gears.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_U_transmission#U660E

Also came across this article which is worth the time to read. Looks like the 2017 transmission would most likely be a better option.

https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/toyotas-aging-front-wheel-drive-six-speeds-common-issues-with-the-u660e-and-u760e-transmissions/

Recently, I discovered that my 8mm 1/2" drive socket had a crack.

I bought a replacement socket on eBay plus 5 deep impact CR-MO sockets.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332050405108?var=542699891860 The phosphate black finish looked dull and lifeless so they have now been painted a gloss black colour.

I have found that the 6 point or flank sockets are more effective than the 12 point sockets so have wanted to get more 6 point sockets.

Finally placed the eBay order for these CR-MO sockets:

12P set 1/2" Dr Impact socket Heavy duty 8mm - 19mm CR-MO sockets [shallow depth; loose no box; from previous supplier so will most likely also paint them]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/234301260991?var=533895442468

20Pc 1/2" Pneumatic Socket Head Metric Air Adopter Impact Repair Wrench Tool [8-32mm; steel box included]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/363368871219

DUAL ACTION 10PCS 6PT 3/8" Dr 7-19 METRIC BLISTER SET 10141001 [shallow depth; socket rail included]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114079259001

Latest AutoBarn catalogue expires this Sunday 13.02.2022.

What caught my attention last week was Castrol Magnatec [part synthetic engine oil]10W-40 5 Litres as an instore special of $19.99. Limit of 2 per customer. 55% discount.

I would find it useful to use as an engine flushing oil or my short oil change intervals but in the process of reducing my engine oil stockpile. 

2 hours ago, Peter Andrew said:

Don't believe the lie that auto trans. are sealed for life. Bad, ignorant and costly advice from Toyota service centre in my view.

Plenty of posts on the Aurion side of this Forum about the supposed sealed for life transmission. It is a bit of a self-fullfilling prophecy. Don't change the ATF and the transmission will eventually fail. ATF lasted the life of the transmission. 

There are also posts about the minimal servicing schedule which is more about keeping the perceived service costs low for marketing/sales purposes. Mostly no problems in the initial 3-5 years for the new car buyer. Can is kicked down the road for the used car buyer to deal with potential future costly drivetrain repairs due to conditions caused by inadequate, extended  or delayed servicing intervals. 

If you want to keep the Toyota feeling then do more regular and preventative maintenance. What most consumers would consider to be normal driving conditions are actually severe as defined in the owner's manual. 

5 hours ago, AurionX2 said:

everything happens slower here in Qld :

Welcome to QLD. Sort of laughing then realised that I am having a slow day today with an after-lunch Sunday nap. Maybe the recent hot weather and thunderstorms has slowed down your bookmarks. 😁  

Ignorance is a likely factor.

A few years ago when I was at a wrecking yard, there was a Toyota 86 which appeared to have damage only to the right rear quarter. To my untrained eye, it appeared to be an easy repair which would have still cost about $2000.

Also I have seen quite a number of vehicles in the wrecking yards that have appeared to be undamaged but written off as unregisterable.

The risks are just too high not to be insured. For myself, a relatively minor collision could result in my older vehicle not being an economical repair proposition.

I would say that most motorists including myself would vastly under-estimate the cost of repairs. What appears to be a $200 repair could actually be $2000 etc.

Something else that people may not consider is the damages bill to what is hit. I have heard that the repair bill for a set of traffic lights could be $100,000. This may sound like an exaggeration but.... 

3 hours ago, Twixter said:

the P0420 code on Toyotas when these o2 sensors detect an issue (I get it on my own Aurion but clear the codes since it's not a huge issue

I cannot recall having got this error code. However, what I have done has been to remove and clean the air fuel ratio sensor on the front exhaust manifold and both of the O2 sensors on the Y pipe. It was too hard to get to the air fuel ratio sensor on the rear exhaust manifold so I left it alone.

I have also most likely used a petrol system clean additive in the past.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-pro-strength-petrol-system-extreme-clean---500ml/561439.html#q=catalytic%2Bcleaner&lang=en_AU&start=2

More recently, I have been using the occasional tank full of PULP 95 to help keep the fuel injectors clean.

I replaced the water pump on my Oct. 2006 Aurion 28.01.2021 at 226K on the odometer. It did go unexpectedly with bearing noise on a Saturday morning which just happened to be when I was planning a road trip the next week. I was going to ignore it then realised that the last thing I wanted to happen was to be stranded while away and end up with a towing bill plus a repair bill and extra accommodation fees while waiting for the vehicle to be repaired by an unknown mechanic.

If you are DIY and planning upon keeping your Toyota for a few more years, then definitely buy a quality water pump to have on hand.

Have a look at some YouTube videos so you have an idea of what is involved. Not going to be a quick easy job.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=toyota+corolla+water+pump+replacement

Following URL will give you an idea of the water pump life expectancy.

https://www.motorsforum.com/toyota_camry/water-pump-life-expectancy-11295-.htm

Welcome to the Forum.

Certainly need to further investigate that CV boot. There should be a metal CV boot clamp not the cable tie which indicates that there has been a repair. I would have expected that any previously leaked CV joint grease would have been cleaned off.

If the seller provided warranty then looks like you will be making a claim to get it repaired ASAP. 

As a follow up this YouTube video is showing the battery location on an overseas model of the 2019 HiAce.

Following is for a later model Hiace showing the battery location under the front passenger seat. There are metal fastening clamps to be released and then you lift the base of the passenger seat. Refer figure 6E of this document.

https://cdn.auckland.ac.nz/assets/env/about/our-department/health-and-safety/documents/gearvan-guide.pdf

54 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

He mentions to add some RTV after popping in the water pump O-ring. Is that how the factory do it ? I don't see why you should because the O-ring will seal right ?. 

I recall using some vasoline on that O-ring as a lubricant to help the O-ring seat properly and hold it in place. Last thing that you want to happen is the O-ring not sealing then have to remove the water pump because of the leak. All part of the research and preparation with that tip/advice being mentioned in an internet post or YouTube video.