campbeam
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Posts posted by campbeam
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1 hour ago, TRD_Aurion said:
I almost purchased a Renault Sport Megane 225 but the thought of reliability issues brought me back to sanity!
What should I be checking for in this Aurion to keep it running well? I've noticed on the forum about the oil sludge issues, so regular oil changes are a must. Does the supercharger feed off of engine oil or have its own dedicated supply? Thinking of a catch can from reading another thread on this forum.
Definitely have to agree with your consideration of reliability. Plenty of "high strung" performance vehicles that spend lots of time as "garage queens" waiting for replacement parts.
Only question that I feel confident to answer is that the supercharger uses the engine oil and does not have a dedicated supply. Based upon my readings, using quality engine oil with the correct oil viscosity is an absolute must. Also frequent oil changes because the high operating temperatures impact the longevity of the oil additives.
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22 hours ago, ZZT86 said:
Yep except I test drive my car's after I do the work to prove its ok before I button everything & close her up. Not being satisfied with one test drive, I did another the following day & I almost instantly smelt the fumes. I filled the tank up the previous night & after deliberately trying to slosh the fuel about violently via quick left right steering manoeuvres & sudden braking she leaked & leaked well. Easy fix 👍
Excellent idea to thoroughly test what has been done particularly when you have had to do a fair bit of dismantling to get to the part to be checked/replaced.
Something that I do after an oil change is to recheck the oil level the next weekend or a few days later.
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Just viewed this recent YouTube video by The Car Nut and was interested in the "Under Hood Inspection". I found it so worthwhile that I immediately went and checked the top of my radiator for any leaks. Fortunately there were none but it was the telltale sign for when I did have to replace the radiator on my now departed 1998 Toyota Camry.
Radiator hoses have previously been checked and appeared to be in good condition with no leaks, bulges or soft areas. Assuming that they are original and now 15+years old, I have bought replacement hoses.
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12 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:
Only waiting on a thread chaser and copper anti seize compound.
Interestingly enough I do have a sensor thread tool but have not had to use it. I got Penrite copper anti-seize compound from SuperCheap Auto a few years ago when on special. Currently, I would be doing a price check with AutoBarn and Repco.
I am sure that your meticulous preparation will pay off.
Based upon your previous posts, I am guessing that you are quite happy to stay with your current oil change interval.
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12 hours ago, KAA said:
provide more information about service history.
Information about the service history of the transmission and your vehicle would be useful.
Do you have any servicing information? What is the odometer reading?
If the transmission fluid was recently changed, I would say that the fluid level is not correct. If so, the fluid level needs to be re-checked and add 200ml of ATF. Also the correct type of ATF with the Toyota WS specification has to be used.
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1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:
Another small issue is one of the idler pully bearings is starting to make a slight squeal on cold start, so I'll have to look into that a bit further when time allows.
I am sure that you will be able to locate the posts for removing and repacking the sealed idler pulley bearings. Leave it too long and you may have the added expense of new bearings.
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Finally noticed this YouTube video by The Car Nut released back in Feb.2022. Definitely worth your time.
After viewing this video, I am going to be making changes to how I maintain my vehicle.
I am quite satisfied that I am on the right track for a shorter oil change interval that is appropriate for my short distance driving.
I have been changing the ATF too often. Also guilty of using ATF in the power steering so time to reconsider that practice.
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Suggest that you have a read of the following URL.
https://www.obd-codes.com/u0101
You may need to engage the services of a good auto electrician to check the communication circuits.
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On 5/22/2021 at 6:02 PM, Novicebutnice said:
If your car has 91 (RON) octane as the minimum, unless you are towing than 95 Octane will yield the best results
I have to agree with this rule of thumb.
Noticing that the engine is idling at lower rpm and acceleration is a lot smoother.
I think that it is mostly due to the recently replaced spark plugs but I have been recently topping up the fuel tank with 98PULP.
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6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:
Anti Fog products as I am faced daily with fogged up glass and mirrors
I will have to do the same especially after a bad experience this last Saturday night.
Combination of fogged up glass, rarely used service road on a dark rainy night plus poor street lighting resulted in me somehow cutting a corner and ending up on the wrong side of the road at the traffic lights.
Fortunately, I had the radio turned off so I did hear the warning from a driver who had stopped at the traffic lights in the correct lane.
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Uploaded file is my research for the 40 series last updated in December 2018.
I would anticipate that part numbers will be different for the 50 series more so due to the length of the connecting wiring.
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1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:
The sensor in question is recessed below the heat shield on the manifold
When you mentioned the sensor location, it reminded me that I have previously removed that sensor to inspect and clean.
Very applicable internet tip was to use brake cleaner as a penetrating oil to help loosen. Apply and wait about 5 minutes. It worked where WD-40 did not appear to produce the desired results.
Afterwards, I carefully applied some anti-seize grease to the sensor threads.
I have a cheaper O2 sensor removal kit. After looking at the eBay listing for the Selta kit, I used the following link to purchase.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/194419498166?hash=item2d444e1cb6:g:UbgAAOSwFN9fi~gG&frcectupt=true
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Bank 1 refers to the bank containing cylinder 1
Bank 2 is the one closest to the front of the vehicle.
https://www.autocodes.com/articles/toyota-oxygen-sensor-location.php
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Suggest that you have a read of this thread by Metal_Head who initially started with a muffler delete then fitted resonators.
i remember another post where aftermarket compact sports mufflers were fitted.
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14 hours ago, Bigmike62 said:
Greetings Gents,
Just a short quirey, I've just noticed that my coolant level in the expansion tank is at the low level..
This has not happened before..recently had a new water pump put in and wondering if it might be the cause of the low level..? Or is it normal to have a low level appear after a long interstate drive ? I bought some Penrite Red OEM Pre mix today and will top it up from the low level to the high level..Im assuming the 1 litre bottle will be enough for that ?
would appreciate your advices and opinions, please.
Bigmike..🤔
I had the same issue on my last interstate drive. I am not going to say that it is normal because the cooling system is essentially a closed one and the coolant level should be constant. There were no obvious leaks or explanation for the low coolant level. I did not have coolant with me at that time but I did go to SuperCheap Auto and got some K-Seal coolant leak repair as a precautionary measure for a blown/leaking head gasket.
Surprisingly, the coolant level returned to a normal level. After returning home, I removed the remaining K-Seal coolant repair particles from the overflow tank.
I check the coolant level regularly and no issue.
In your case, some possible explanations could be air pockets bleeding out of the system or coolant expansion and overflowing out of the coolant bottle.
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On 4/28/2022 at 8:50 AM, Hiro said:
The amount of sales going on for Nulon lately makes me think they're either gearing up for a new product launch (and trying to get rid of old stock) or with the oil market volatility and state of the world the way it is as the moment they've every greatly over-estimated demand or have lost a significant amount of overseas customers and need to recoup sales/move excess product.
Nice thought provoking comment.
I checked my last special purchase for Gulf Western 5W-30 oil back in March 2022 and it appeared to be old stock, a few years old.
I went to AutoBarn today to check out the latest Nulon 5W-30 oil special to confirm whether it was "old stock". Batch information indicated a 5th March 2022 production date.
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I think that these space saver tyres are a cost saving measure by the manufacturer.
Interestingly enough, I have not had to use the spare wheel as an emergency in the past 10 years or so. Even though my driving is upon decent urban roads and highways close to home, it is still nice to have particularly when on an interstate road trip.
As you mentioned, a space saver tyre is not going to be suitable for your emergency needs. I guess that you could be visiting your local wreckers to find a suitable spare wheel and tyre, as one option.
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Yes, the bulbs should turn up within a week or so.
Certainly expecting that you will be pleased with the end results.
Please let the Forum know your opinion as to whether it was worth the outlay.
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I would be inclined to check/clean or replace the spark plugs, air filter.
No harm to also clean the throttle body and the Mass Air Flow sensor.
When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? Something else to consider.
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After doing a recent spark plug change, I decided to buy a magnetic spark plug socket.
My existing sockets with the rubber insert were not so user friendly. All sorts of woes with the rubber insert sticking to the spark plug or the socket coming away from the extension
Finally decided upon geting the 3/8"drive 16mm swivel socket with a long extension from eBay.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133615067753?var=433066547327
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In the past, I have used Ford and Mitsubishi wheels.
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It has been a while since I reading about upgrading to LED headlight bulbs. I more recall mention being made about the different type of headlight housing i.e. reflector vs projector.
Personally, I have been using H11 LED plug n play design bulbs in my Aurion for a few years. I started with bulbs sourced from eBay. Certainly equivalent or better than high performance halogen bulbs but some bulbs only lasted a few months instead of years.
Finally gave up buying based upon price and bought H11 LED bulbs from STEDI which I can highly recommend. Unfortunately, they are currently out of stock according to their website.
As an alternative, perhaps consider these Philips bulbs even though they are more expensive.
https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/product/philips-ultinon-pro9000-led-h11-twin
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On 4/16/2022 at 6:51 AM, Tony Prodigy said:
but $63 for a set of 6 "Denso" Iridium plugs seems suspiciously cheap don't you think ?
Same seller had another listing at $99 for these DENSO spark plugs with a 100% genuine guarantee. I am guessing that multiple spark plug suppliers are being used and the genuine ones are being supplied from DENSO not a distributor/reseller.
Ended up buying the $99 genuine guaranteed ones so will have good look at them when they arrive.
U66OE tranny acts weird
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
Posted
I can very highly expect that the transmission fluid level is low and needs to be corrected. This would explain the jolting.
The transmission fluid needs to be changed. However, at this stage DO NOT FLUSH the transmission which would replace all of the old fluid with new. Instead, what I would recommend is to only perform a drain of the transmission. This will replace about 2+ litres given that the overall fluid capacity of the transmission including the torque convertor is 6.1 litres. Perform another pan drain of the transmission every 12 months. Very important that the fluid level is correct.
Following YouTube video by The Car Nut who is a Toyota Master Technician in the USA has a section on the transmission fluid.