campbeam

8 hours ago, Jimz_GSV50R said:

Thanks Ash. Sounds like you had a great run with the OEM struts. I watched the Car Care Nut video below and he recommends leaving the OEM struts until you have issues with them. I actually bought some KYB struts very cheaply for around $500 for front and rear from eBay during a sale, however now I am thinking I will return them and just wait it out - he recommends if it aint broke, dont fix it!

Did you notice a big difference with the new suspension?

 

 

I did not notice that sale otherwise I would have seriously getting a set of those KYB EXCEL-G struts. Current price on eBay is approx. $656 for GSV50R and $670 for GSV40R. That is a $100 difference compared to pre-COVID times.

I will suggest that you re-consider and keep them for the "Just in Case". Worst case scenario is that you do a holiday trip over rough surfaces and the struts then need to be replaced.

I have the earlier 40 series and everything was "tweaked" or revised/upgraded for the later 50 series.

The main difference with the new suspension was better ride. At first I was not noticing much difference when doing 40kph over a speed bump, then I finally noticed that the recoil bounce was slightly less. I have noticed an improvement in the handling but I also upgraded the rear sway bar. I expect that the KING springs are slightly stiffer than OEM.

In Oct.2015, my 2006 Aurion had 166.500kms on the odometer. In late December 2020 with 225,675 kms on the odometer, I fitted new Sachs struts and King springs both front and rear. OEM struts did definitely need replacing. I did not notice any leaking. However not much resistance to push down the centre rod and quite some time before that centre rod on the front struts started to rise up.

You could consider going to a suspension shop i.e. Pedders for a suspension check to confirm how worn is the suspension.

https://www.pedders.com.au/products/book-a-brakes-steering-suspension-check/?kw=pedders suspension check&cpn=16037919304&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu7LI2fu2-gIVDRsrCh0LGgCfEAAYASAAEgIorvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc

2 hours ago, jacko16 said:

Thanks for this, good job.

Do you still have the Toyota bulletin showing to add 200ml? Please and also haw save is it to user after market ATF.

Thanks.

  On page 12 of the attached document, there is mention of adding another 200ml of ATF.

I have been using aftermarket ATF in my Aurion for about 6 years. Penrite ATF LV meets the Toyota WS specification. I have been using this ATF for at least 3 years and intend to keep doing so.

Remember that it is your vehicle and you make the final decision. It is more convenient for me to go to my local SuperCheap Auto or Repco than to the Spare Parts Dept of the nearest Toyota dealership.

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Good work Ash. Haven't heard from you in a while. Hope everything's ok mate.

Did your reservoir have that strainer in it the Car care Nut spoke about ?

All is good. Not able to contribute to most of the recent posts.

I fully expect that there is a strainer in the supply line area of the reservoir. I used a plastic pump bottle to empty the reservoir. I did not see that strainer which would be located in the supply line connection area.

Now that you mention it, I could have used an inspection camera to view/confirm the condition of the strainer. I did not consider it at the time because I expected the strainer condition to be good as I have been regularly changing the power steering fluid. Also with the engine running, you can see the fluid circulating in the reservoir.

I did a follow up change of fluid in the reservoir on Saturday 11th September 2022. This time I did take some photos for reference purposes. Basically confirmed that next fluid change can be in 2 years time. Also due to age discoloration of the reservoir, colour of the new fluid appears to be darker.

2 hours ago, TONEDEAF2 said:

Thank you for your awesome comments. The service history is:

15.000 done at 16118

30000 gone at 31524

45000 done ar 51908

60000 done at 64633

75000 done at 79762

90000 done at 93680

105000 done at 109571

120000 done at 118240

135000 done at 132097

150000 done at 142248

 

The service history is an interesting case study with the initial 3 services presumably being performed slightly over the 15000 kim / 12 month interval. Posts in other threads on this Forum express the opinion that this service interval is more based upon the minimal servicing requirement to ensure warranty from a marketing perspective. Perceived lower maintenance costs and longer servicing intervals is "designed" to meet the sales/marketing requirements. I am sure that if you asked the Toyota engineers for their opinion, then they would point out servicing your vehicle as per adverse driving conditions in the owners handbook i.e. service your vehicle every 6 months.

Longer service intervals for the initial 3-5 years is adequate for a new car buyer who then trades in on another new vehicle but a "ticking time bomb" for the used car buyer or the longer term car owner. Increased oil consumption is an indicator that the piston oil rings are getting clogged up with sludge. There are quite a number of YouTube videos about Toyota oil consumption. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=toyota+oil+consumption+fix

The Car Nut has posted a few videos on this issue. Timely oil changes with good quality oil can prevent this issue. 

In your case, I would seriously consider using the proven "old school" oil change interval of 5000kms / 6 months and using an oil flush product.  This is just a rule of thumb. Because most of my driving is short distance [bus stop, local supermarket], I use a shorter oil change interval of 3 months or less based upon a dark honey colour of the oil. I am also DIY with lots of quality known brand full synthetic 5W-30 engine oil and oil; filter cartridges in my stockpile. Certainly a different matter, if I had to pay a professional mechanic for that many oil changes.

I have previously used the Chief oil brand that was available at SuperCheap Auto; at least 3 years ago.

I changed to Penrite ATF LV ATF and intending to continue using it.

I think that I noticed a slight difference in the smoothness of the gear shifts but this could be due to the multiple ATF changes.

I did do some research/internet searches for the suitable ATF for the U660E transmission and the Toyota WS specification. At the time, I thought that the Penrite ATF LV was better meeting the Toyota WS specification. Also when the Penrite ATF LV was on special [previously $36 for 4 litres], it was more attractively priced than the other brands. No reason for me to consider changing especially as I have multiple containers in my stockpile.

Still keeping my options open so will consider changing ATF product in the future if a better quality ATF exceeding the WS specification is available at a comparative price.

95C is the temperature when the cooling fan starts operating.

https://fdocuments.net/document/2gr-fe-cooling.html?page=5

2GR-FKS: "Thermostat with electric heater, nominal opening temperature 85-89°C - engine is about 5 degrees "hotter" than the 2GR-FE." https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/13-11-10_faq_gr-engine_eng.htm

https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/13-11-10_faq_gr-engine_eng.htm#2GR-FE

I thought that it would be good to have this topic as a collection point for those legal judgements against car manufacturers and dealers for their wrong doings.

Consumers can have that warm fuzzy feeling of being able to applaud the Corporate "misbehaviour" of car manufacturers being exposed and legally chastised.

In the following YouTube video, John Cagogan gets somewhat verbally excited about Mercedes Benz aka 3 Prong being given a financial shafting.

Nice implication that BMW should be gratefully thanking 3 Prong for "gifting" sales to them.

Nothing like a fixed price model and an upset dealer network to plummet your sales.

Hopefully Toyota Australia is having a good laugh at the discomfort of their competitors but also learning.

Still got to keep working hard at doing everything right to stay Number 1 plus also market share.

Another YouTube video by John Cadogan appeared for viewing. It is more about the oil change interval and particularly relevant to my regular short distance driving.

More support for considering a 6 month oil change interval, in this case for a low mileage vehicle.

I recall a few posts about flushing the coolant system for the purposes of replacing the coolant system. There is an engine drain plug to be located and opened to fully flush the coolant system.

An alternative is to drain the radiator then refill with distilled water. Idle engine to circulate and dilute the residual coolant, then drain radiator again. Repeat if considered necessary. Drain and refill with the new coolant. This is what another Forum member has done, so I have remembered his post for future consideration.

This Car Nut's video has provided some factual support for my skeptical thinking about long life coolants.

Quick learning from this video was to replace the super long life coolant every 5 years/50,000 miles/80,000 kms.

If it is the red coolant then replace every 3 years/30,000/48,000 kms.

Quite worthwhile to read your comparison especially as you have always had 6 or 8 cyl RWD cars. My Oct. 2006 Aurion ATX is my 1st V6 and have mainly had 4cyl FWD car. Absolutely love the torque when overtaking on the highway.

Regular and preventative maintenance is the key. Normal logbook servicing is essentially the bare essentials to maintain the new car warranty for the initial 3-5 years.Best to service your vehicle on "severe driving" basis e.g. oil change interval every 6 months or 5-7,000 kms using a quality brand name full synthetic engine oil.

Consider changing the automatic transmission fluid {ATF} every 3 years or 70,000 kms. Also regular checks/changes of the coolant and power steering fluid. Instead of a complete coolant change/flush, I change the coolant in the overflow reservoir on an annual basis. I also do similar changes of the power steering fluid in the reservoir but on a more regular basis.

Very coincidental that The Car Nut recently posted a YouTube video about the misdiagnosis of these error codes. Instead of the timing chain it is most likely going to be the Oil Control Valve {OCV} . Have a look at the recent thread on this Forum.

Here is the link to a YouTube video about how to fix the P0015 error code.

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Luckily for me I don't have to worry about power steering maintenance as the 50 series Aurion use electric power assisted steering and not hydraulic.

I also viewed some YouTube videos about a tear down of the electric power assisted steering. Certainly got greater faith in Toyota reliability.

After submitting the initial post, I decided to take my own advice so Saturday morning, I changed the fluid in the power steering reservoir. To be expected, the fluid was a darker colour than the new fluid and there was no sediment. This replaced approx. 200ml of fluid. After a short Sunday morning drive, I repeated the fluid change in the reservoir.

Follow up question in my mind was what is the fluid capacity of the power steering system. Answer for my vehicle appears to be 1.3 - 1.4 litres. Following link also details the procedure for a complete fluid flush/change. https://maslo-toyota.ru/en/change-power-steering-fluid-toyota-camry-40.html

Now considering when to do a follow up change of fluid in the power steering reservoir. Maybe next engine oil change.

I viewed another new release YouTube Video by The Car Nut. Following a quick look at an item being displayed, I thought that it was something else than the power steering fluid reservoir. Interesting to find out that there is a filter screen within this reservoir and that it can get clogged.

What I had previously considered was that the additives in the fluid would break down over time and needed to be replaced. I had previously looked at YouTube videos about flushing the power steering system but was reluctant to disconnect the hoses from the fluid reservoir. What I have been doing is using a pump to extract most of the fluid in the reservoir then replace the fluid. I started doing this regularly and it is now part of my annual maintenance schedule.

After doing a quick Google search, it appears that the power steering fluid should be changed every 2 years or 50,000 miles [80,000 kms]

https://www.avondaletoyota.com/blog/2022/february/10/how-often-should-you-change-power-steering-fluid.htm

Following YouTube video highlights the wear on the power steering pump when the fluid is not changed regularly.

I will certainly have to reconsider what fluids I am using in the power steering fluid reservoir. I have previously used Dextron 3 ATF and been thinking about using synthetic ATF or specific power steering fluid for the next change.

Still have yet to find that missing tyre depth gauge so time to buy a replacement.

About a fortnight ago, I deflated the tyres on my Aurion and inserted 100ml of Aerospace 303 protectorant into each tyre before re-inflating to 40 psi.

What I have noticed since then is that the ride is not as harsh at 40psi compared to previous times. Hard to measure but I feel that the rolling resistance of the tyres is less.

There are some posts in the Aurion part of the Forum. STEDI is a recommended brand, Australian company with a 2 year warranty. I have previously used cheaper chinese brand LED replacement headlight bulbs. Finally got some that were initally good but then started failing in a matter of months. Eventually realised that quality is worth the extra $$ and bought the STEDI LED headlight bulbs as recommended by a few other Forum members. Still going strong after 12 months and I consider it to be the best upgrade that I have done.

On a separate note, the Aurion low beam headlights have a projector type housing. I expect that your Landcruiser would be using a reflector type housing.

https://www.stedi.com.au/upgrades/toyota/landcruiser/200-series-whalogen-headlight/2012#low-beam-headlight

Wrong vehicle to be driving foot flat to the floor from stationary. If that is your preferred driving style suggest that you go buy an AWD subaru or similar. I previously had subaru liberty and it ended up being a money pit compared to the Camry in the family at that time.

The Aurion is not a "boy racer" vehicle. I think of it as more of a highway cruiser able to cruise all day and overtake effortlessly. Something else to consider is the drive train especially the auto transmission which while robust is not designed for drag racing. Expect to either replace the transmission or do an expensive rebuild. Precisely why I chose to be slower from a stop and then use steady acceleration to overtake those that have momentarily raced ahead.

Laughing because I fully expect you are going to find out the very hard way about the quality of those GoodRide brand tyres. Quite a few years ago, I bought a used, as new set with 90% tread; standard size 215/60/16. I discovered that they were absolutely treacherous with minimal grip in slightly wet road conditions. Given the expected outcome of a smashed up vehicle fitted with cheap Chinese brand tyres or pay extra to have quality brand name tyres and no dramas, I have parted with the extra $$.

In case you do need or want to remove or access the heater A/C control unit, definitely recommend viewing this YouTube video which is more about replacing the head unit. Also something that I learnt the hard way is that the heater A/C control unit is connected to the head unit with a sideways connecting motion. Best to remove the head unit and heater A/C control unit as one then use a sideways/horizontal sliding motion to disconnect the heater A/C control unit. Assembly is the reverse; connecting both units together then bolts to the dash.

I replaced that heater/ac control unit earlier this year because at least one of the controls was not lighting up. Air re-circulation control had previously lit then stopped. The rear demister control was definitely still working. Unfortunately, no bulbs but a wired in/soldered component. You need to remove the clock and radio head unit to be able to access a couple of the retaining bolts for this control unit. I was testing both the removed and replacement control units prior to re-assembly when the original control unit started working again. Replacement unit was fitted and has been working without any issues for the last 6 months. Original unit is in my spares bin as a backup.

In hindsight, maybe there was some corrosion on the electrical connections which got removed after connecting a few times.

If you need/want a replacement, try this eBay listing

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284704892356?hash=item4249bbe5c4:g:AtcAAOSwcFJhna4-&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsG3ImQCS0yghg2o9PIesHlum1ZZbidx93z%2Fno9salHywdv1UkMnGKufnb0dTpUc7Nc8Sw4DBS%2BSLhwfNmia8EpGzE%2B3ru%2BSn2U1X3xz2sNbxVaUrYLqo4GbULBjwMsaa4SoLv6HauezBS5Na8scIodQqL6mPD%2F%2BXnwmNpXDODBa8n7hSAlukhvd1Blx2%2B0JNpnaiCczHV%2FPWeAy6NJGHKLpq8j2Y2XZqvZTU%2BJMlYJVj|tkp%3ABk9SR-iV_b7aYA&frcectupt=true

11 hours ago, Speedz said:

How about converting a Aurion to full EV when the cost of conversion is more affordable?

Certainly food for thought. Quite likely that someone may release a conversion kit for the Camry. Then it may become more of an affordable option to consider when the engine and transmission have expired. At the moment, some enthusiasts have converted some classic cars to being EV under the hood.

The following is tendered as an alternative suggestion and is not going to be applicable for most owners.

It is more about balancing price and quality for your specific driving conditions.

Over the past 6 years or so, I have been using both genuine and aftermarket oil filter cartridges for my 2GR-FE engine. There is a difference in the oil filter cartridges as to the quality and amount of the element. This is what you are paying for when you buy genuine or quality better than OEM vs cheaper [supposedly] OEM standard ones. In a different thread titled Genuine vs Fake parts, there is a YouTube video demonstrating the better/higher effectiveness of the genuine Toyota filter

My engine is full of oil sludge from the time that I bought it with a dubious service history. Furthermore, as I have posted many times, most of my driving is short distance urban driving approx. 15 minutes so ideal conditions for the formation of oil sludge. Therefore, I do an overkill oil change procedure [in a separate thread] and do it very regularly. My oil change interval is approx. 3000 kms or less depending upon the oil colour. I am DIY and somewhat "price sensitive". Therefore I am not going to use the absolutely best quality oil and oil filters. Very different matter if my engine oil was still a nice amber colour after 5000 kms of mostly highway driving. Then it would be worthwhile to be using the higher quality oil filters and a higher quality engine oil to support an extended oil change interval of either 6 months or 8000 kms.

On a visual comparison basis for the number of pleats in the element and personal experience, I have got acceptable results from the OEMASSIVE brand Made in China. I am basing these "results" upon the amount of sludge particles captured in the element. This brand also recommends that the cartridge be changed by 5000 kms. Guess that you can draw your own conclusions, so presumably not suited for a longer interval.

Planning upon being a longer term owner of my Toyota and DIY for many years to come, I have placed a bulk order on eBay. 48 filters for $105 was the best deal that I had located. Certainly better than a previous purchase of 6 for $22. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/175355355567?fits=Model%3AKluger|Make%3AToyota&hash=item28d3fe61af:g:QGQAAOSwsCNiw-HM

Quantity can have a quality of its own in specific circumstances. Still considering whether to change the oil filter cartridge about mid-way in a planned oil change interval to keep the engine oil cleaner. In the meantime, I will be keeping my genuine oil filter cartridges in reserve until the engine becomes relatively sludge free.

22 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Supa clean top end of the engine, if only the owner kept an eye on the coolant level & acted once noticing it missing. I love SpeedKar, so much knowledge on Toyota motors & great informative videos.

I was very impressed with how clean the cylinder head and valve cover was, particularly when compared to what my engine was like. I thought that it was testament to the frequency and quality of the previous oil changes so not exactly indicative of an indifferent neglectful owner. If the cylinder head and valve cover had heaps of oil sludge then I would not have been so surprised about the engine teardown.

Unfortunately not enough background information/history to confirm whether the engine overheated before the change of water pump or shortly afterwards.

Main learning from this video is the importance of regular fluid level checks to top up as required and detect any leaks. Definitely cheaper to fix/monitor any coolant leaks before the engine overheats. I am a bit pedantic or OCD so I usually check every week or fortnight as I have an "elderly" 2006 vehicle. Always monitoring the engine oil and coolant level in the overflow bottle. No dipstick on the transmission but I am continuously monitoring the smoothness of the gear changes.