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Posts posted by ZZT86
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Just found on carsales, that interior doesn't look stock, appears leather ?
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Really ? 1 owner ? Manual or Auto, colour, pics
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2JZ not fit ?
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@nickio hey just trying to help bud, but at end of the day you can put on the car whatever wheel & tyre combination you like. Heck some guys in the 86 community go nuts & put a 215 tyre on a 9.5" rim, it's just madness until they get pinged by the popo or it pops off altogether. Personally I see the Camry/Aurion as a comfort/cruiser & would keep the setup close to stock, as DJ has mentioned can work out to be cheaper also.
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Above spec rolling dia way out of calibration, would consider 235/45 tyre instead.
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How's the interior ? Still auto?
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On 8/10/2018 at 10:07 PM, AurionX2 said:
I read that, however I still don't understand exactly what parts of what's been named Aurion were designed in Australia. Whichever way I look at it, the Aurion is still a Camry which is why I'm asking. Did a bit of reading myself but couldn't find much information on it. There's the front grille, the headlights, taillights, here and there some touches, is that it?
Essentially what you stated above is pretty much it. The body work changed slightly to accomodate the head/tail lights, so cosmetic, suspension tuning given the bigger/heavier engine, interior is similar but overall it's a modded Camry, all done @ Port Melb.
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@nickio Your current profile is extremely low, better suited to a Ferrari with supporting suspension setup. I would swap the 19's with the 17's you mention above, you will keep rolling dia very close to stock, same width tyre & gain 32.5mm in comfort profile which you will notice & feel.
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There's usually always noticeable improvements in the way they drive, steer & handle. I always noticed the difference in my old Celicas, my dads 2003 ACV36 Sportivo is a completely different kettle of fish compared to my 2001 MCV20 Azura despite only being 2 years apart in age & of similar kms driven. The steering & handling is so agile compared to my MCV20R, I guess also the heavier V6 engine in the MCV wouldn't be doing it any favours.
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4 from memory, 1 upstream & 1 down on each bank. You will need a scan tool to pull the DTC & suss out which sensor & reason for code. Code will read something like "DTC P0000 - B1 S1 Reason for code" - so Bank 1 Sensor 1 = sensor before cat on Bank 1 (front 1 think)
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@Mguyva so which top mounts did you end up using - factory oem or aftermarket ?
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. . . . . I would give anything just to be like hiiiiiiiiimmm . . . . . .
Sorry I just had to
New gen Camry appears a lovely machine, SX the firmer setup of the lot. You got V6 ? Congrats.
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95 is supposedly cleaner/more refined than 91 as well as higher octane giving you the oomph missing when using 91 & improved economy.
@thisguy ps: do you have Hybrid or regular SL ? How do you find it? If Hybrid what's economy like ? cheers
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Personally I'm not a fan of Hyundai engineering or quality, yet.
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Congrats, looks good. Not a colour I see in the MCV20R but nice ;)
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Personally don't have any leaks in my MCV20R Azura, perhaps the boot just needs adjusting to close tighter ? I have done this on mine & re-aligned it left to right.
There is a breather vent on the LHS, perhaps damaged as a result from previous accident damage, who knows, should be no leaks.
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Driving a Toyota 86 in the fog & pouring rain @ the Ring is about as daft as Glen Seton driving a Skyline Turbo @ Bathurst on slicks in the big wet . . . . . very dicy
There are so many mods & parts available for the 86 it's not funny, part of Akios grand master plan.
ps: although "hachi" ain't that quick in a str8 line, it is around the bends, so much so it surprises many ;)
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How many kms has your MCV36 Camry done & has it got a good service history?
I spoke to a tech @ Penrite on the phone 1.5 yrs ago re this exact predicament with my 2001 MCV20R with the same engine/tranny which then had 75K kms & a good service history. I asked if there was any reason not to use the ATF FS & he gladly replied absolutely not, he actually recommended it over any of their other fluids. Looking at the KV spec of this oil it's virtually identical to the MHP & the ideal DX III which is a dino as opposed to the man made FS.
As a result I have used ATF FS since then & it has been running just fine. My only concern has been the somewhat harsh change from 1st>2nd & vice-versa at times although this may have already been present but don't recall it initially when I acquired the car. I suspect it's either a tranny issue - possibly a valve solenoid or just typical of the A541E breed.
Have read that these trannies are sensitive to fluid changes/differences so I plan on doing another complete flush when it gets warmer to the DX-III I have in stock to see if that changes anything. I'm guessing nothing will come of it other than a complete oil change.
If you change your tranny fluid I would highly recommend you doing a complete flush plus filter change.
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^^ that looks sensational provided it's reliable. I'm all for any tech that increases driver enjoyment & safety, not ruin it.
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Try one thing at a time, go for decent test drive & see if it worked so you can pinpoint exactly what caused the noise. I wonder if it could also be the strut top mount/bearing isn't properly torqued/seated ?
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So perhaps only when engine cold ? If you can get someone else to start it whilst you listen to the suspect area using a long sturdy screwdriver touching part in question like a starter motor. It's going to be difficult to pinpoint without a helping hand. I hope you have a CTEK charger or similar as you will kill your battery after many repeated starts & little to no drive - leave it overnight to charge if you can.
How many kms has it done ?
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Mechanical rattle like a CVJ, not sure it could make such a racket at startup though . . . something loose, does it make the racket when you rev it from idle, try revving slowly.
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Can vouch for silicone spray curing rubbing/squeak noises. Will pull the front struts out one of these days to investigate.
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check switch gear & wiring ?
Aurion performance mod.
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
Posted
Sounds like even more torque from that creamy engine, only problem will be you will fry your tyres that much quicker :) Sticky rubber will help with traction but not tyre longevity ;)