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nickio last won the day on October 21 2013

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About nickio

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  1. I guess it might be the weight as well. The factory 19 is heavier than the 17.
  2. Yeah got it mate, and thanks for that. There was times years ago when I thought 19 was cool, but not anymore these days. I do want to go back to as much stock as I can, and those I mentioned are some of the choices I managed to find for sale. Those are stock wheels that are pretty new at quite okay price and around the area that I can go pick up as well. That’s what lead me to start this threat.
  3. Yeah, looks like 215/55/17 is a much better option. It's time to look for some wheels now. I can get some 17x7 for about $600 and 17x6.5 for about $400. I really don't want to spend too much on an almost 10 years old car. As the 18s that suit Aurion is not a common size and is quite expensive.
  4. Yes, you are correct. 225/45 and 235/45 both are very close to stock. Thanks for the feedback jtfoto. I think 3km/h is quite normal on most car’s speedo.
  5. Hi guys, I've been rolling on the TRD 19x8 245/35/19 for a few years now on my Aurion 2010 AT-X. I feel it pulls and tram line a lot and wanted to change back to something a bit thinner and smaller. I've seen two options: 1. 17x7 on 215/55/17, stock sportivo size 2. 18x8 on 235/40/18, stock newer camry wheels. Any recommendation on which one I should go for? Any feedback on tramlining and wheel pulling issue? Anyone got any stock 17inch that they want to sell?
  6. Hi Guys I am wondering if the under the front lips of the 2010 Sportivo series, the bumper is the same as the 2010 ATX. Can I just get the front lips and attach it onto the ATX bumper ? or Do I need to get the whole bumper and lip ?
  7. ahhh guys .. any group buys running anytime soon for these kits. i found some on http://rhino360.my and they do ship to Australia. But it just doesn't look as nice as the Thai kit .. :(
  8. is it right in between the number plate light ? then yes that is for installing reverse camera.
  9. Just my 0.02, I will go a grade thicker as the car hits the next 100K kms or 120K kms mark. Since your car is still very new and I am assuming somewhat under 50000km, I would stick to the hand book xW-30. You can go as low as 0w which you don't really need in Australia weather condition. You can also refer to this thread as there is a small talk about different between the 40s and 50s series, and it seems to be almost exactly the same. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/45673-engine-power-upgrades/
  10. Hi Is it still up for sale ? Both front and rear shock and spring is it ?
  11. Thanks for the link. Don't the 40 series and 50 series have different oil viscosity specs? Further muddies the waters so to speak. The most disappointing thing in all this is the apparent lack of understanding of the oil spec page in the handbook by all of the Toyota personnel I have asked. My opinion is that a good quality 5W-30 will be OK but I will probably go with Penrite PRO10 a semi sun 10w30. Very attractively priced. Since the 40 and 50 series has the same engine and basically almost the same car. I can say it is almost the same. Personally, I'll go for something fully Synthetic this h
  12. it's totally fine to use 5w-30. will even be better in cold start. refer to this thread:http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/22298-what-oil/
  13. It doesn't need to be full for me, anywhere near mid territory for me. LSD.... are we looking for unicorn here ? hahahaha :P Correct me if I'm wrong here, LSD only useful when you are taking corner where it limit the slip difference between the inside and outside wheel. In term of straight line acceleration, I don't think it makes much of a different I guess, unless only one of the wheel lose traction badly. I guess, that's the way to go :(
  14. That's cool man ... going easy , easy easy . i have to implant the word easy in my right foot :( On the topic of suspension. I still tossing coin of lowering or not. Coil or spring. head banging. Handling and looks or comfort. Can't decide.

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