TommyM

4 hours ago, campbeam said:

I think that you have misread your manual. I am seeing H4 for low beam and HB3 for high beam.

I have previously sourced my headlight bulbs from the Powerbulbs website and had no issues. Following URLs should be relevant.

https://www.powerbulbs.com/eu/blog/2017/09/yellow-or-whiter-light

https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/fitting/h4-472/bulb-type/styling/sort/customer_rating

https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/search/HB3?term=hb3

Probably a good approach to get the higher quality halogen bulbs and when time for replacement then reconsider LED bulbs.

 

I just noticed the typo lol 🤣🤣🤣

Yeah i've had narva's in my VX Calais for years without any issue, the brightness is definitely noticable (with the avalon lights being far easier to change thankfully). I'll get my setup i have in it & call it a day.

Parkers - Narva (Wedge type) "Artic Blue" - more a cool white 

Main Low Beam - Narva "Plus 150" (H4)

Highbeam - Narva "Plus 100" (HB3)

Fog Lights - Narva "Platinum Plus 130" (HB4)

*Obviously the bulb types in my VX differ slightly but i have the same setup*

Definitely notice the fog lights more so than anything. Is it worth the $350 for a complete overhaul ?, definitely.

Off topic gentleman/ladies

I'm having a slight issue at the moment, Mark 3 Avalon life ugh...

I know they have impressive headlight performance compared to Ford & Holden of the time, but i'm wanting to change the bulbs over to a clearer/white look or straight LED

I'm considering keeping it OEM halogen for ADR regulations, or should i just go to illumo and buy some LED's and have even better performance. Bulb prices are significantly different. But i'm more stuck on the Headlight is apparently a HB3 where other sources say H4, etc

Judging by my owners manual it's HB3 for low beam, H4 for high beam, simple wedge bulbs for parkers.

Can anybody clarify some stuff ?

Unless i'm simply reading correctly 🤣🤣🤣

But i think i might get some higher quality halogens for obvious reasons (insurance & design) - LED's can screw you over

3 hours ago, KAA said:

I find they are very responsive to flooring it..I don't tend to do that often but have done to get past trucks etc on long stretches of road..usually I am just the patient take my time kinda driver, but on very wet days excellent at cornering and around roundabouts

Hope that helps Tom

Keep Safe

KAA

I always drive safe, i'm just lead footed. Never speed, unless certain situations are required and unavoidable, rare but still....

I wasn't worried about what tires, i run 2 brands regardless (just depends on availability), tried others, they just didn't suit traction, braking performance, etc

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Let me re-phrase my initial question - What is traction like if you give it the beans from a stand still ?

With my car the traction control is next to useless, it's not well tuned enough to arrest the wheels from spinning & bunny hoping, from memory the GSV40R's were the same so nothing changed there 😉 This the main reason for wanting more grip hence my PS4 theory. Having said all that the tyres on my car are rubbish & nearing the end. I know if I feed the power gently with good control the car is not only very quick but a delight to drive.

Hahahaha love the revised statement 😉

The GSV40's do have the ability to apply mild braking pressure to mitigate traction loss, they're a bit more up to spec compared to Ford & Holden just thinking "oh lets just cut power & retard timing massively to fix wheelspin"

It's that bad your car feels like it's misfiring lol

9 hours ago, Buddah Kahuna said:

Currant setup on my 07 ZR6 PDW 18" RIMS WITH 245/45/R18 "Blacklion BU66" have been very happy with tyres , great in the wet, very little road noise, and wear has been good in my 2nd years done about 50,000km there about $155 per tyre

Not bad pricing either

4 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

@KAA
How do you find the grip if you give it the beans ?

Turn off traction control 🤣🤣🤣

14 hours ago, campbeam said:

My personal criteria is for a touring type tyre with excellent braking in wet conditions.

If I was buying tyres, I would be seriously considering Michelin Primacy 4 [New Generation 2018/9] and the Continental UltraContact 6.

Also quite happy to stay with the stock setup of 215/60/16 for my 2006 Aurion ATX and 2008/9 Aurion Prodigy.

Primacy 4's are pretty good, experienced them first hand. Pilot Sport 4's are more agressive i'm sure haha. 

On my 04' (MY05) Avalon Grande

Currently running Continental UltraContact 6 (including the matching alloy spare)

Stock setup was 205/65/R16, where as now i've improved handling slightly with the current setup which is 215/55/R16

Sits slightly lower, ever so slightly, speedo accuracy is actually improved funny enough.

General topic of discussion on what tyres people are running on STOCK/OEM alloy wheels

Discussion is applicable to basically every Camry/Aurion & Avalon from 2000 - Current

Wether it be 16", 17", 18" or 19" rims, a true enthusiast won't run "no branded/cheapie tyres"

If any non branded/respected tyres come into question, please don't comment 😁

Michelin, Continental, Toyo, Falken, etc etc all welcome. Include the size, aspect ratio & profile gentleman/ladies !

PLEASE BE CIVIL, KEEP IT FRIENDLY

1 hour ago, campbeam said:

When you are DIY, it is also your time and effort.

I know that my oil change procedure is overkill but I am not going to change it. I drain the engine and the oil filter then refill with diesel. Idle the engine for less than 10 minutes which is time enough to put the used oil into a container. Drain the engine and filter of the diesel. Use that time to fit the oil filter which is filled with new oil. Pour a small amount of new oil into the engine to help drain the last of the diesel. Refit the drain plug and fill the engine with new oil. Idle the engine for a minute then stop and check the oil level. Top up to the full level. Nice overkill to ensure that the new oil will not be likely to be contaminated by any residue old oil.

Anyway, nothing wrong with overkill particularly when it produces the benefits you were expecting. There are times and circumstances when your opinion is the most important but at least recognize when you are in overkill mode.

 

This is true 🤣🤣🤣

Others who viewed the thread might have learnt a thing or two lol

13 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

See if you can find out what the head unit is capable of. Your biggest enemy is impedance, not only through the speaker but also through the speaker cabling.

Stock car amps aren't fancy fair so they like to keep it simple and yet give the impression of a nice sound. The higher the impedance speaker, the more power it will consume and the likelihood of over heating the amp is possible. I'd keep it stock with the 2 ohm speakers and find a decent quality speaker that fits the factory foot print and enjoy it. Depends on how loud you like it. I used to love loud music in my cars when I was a youth, but not so much these days. I'm very content with the stock radio.

Any help or advice is better than none at all 😁

Decided on Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0w40

Overkill, but hey.... it's my money lol

13 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

See if you can find out what the head unit is capable of. Your biggest enemy is impedance, not only through the speaker but also through the speaker cabling.

Stock car amps aren't fancy fair so they like to keep it simple and yet give the impression of a nice sound. The higher the impedance speaker, the more power it will consume and the likelihood of over heating the amp is possible. I'd keep it stock with the 2 ohm speakers and find a decent quality speaker that fits the factory foot print and enjoy it. Depends on how loud you like it. I used to love loud music in my cars when I was a youth, but not so much these days. I'm very content with the stock radio.

Just a decent upgrade, i'm not chasing peak power, but the speakers factory are pretty below average, even my Calais had better factory subs 🤣

The head unit can easily drive another amp, keeping it within spec, it won't cause any issues running factory wiring. Only upgrading to 4ohm, etc you'll probably develop issues. Keeping in within spec you'll be fine.

4 hours ago, campbeam said:

I am just repeating what is in WikiMotors URL: 300,000kms [180,000 miles]

Just checked and WikiMotors has the same lifespan for the 2GR-FE engine. I think that we can both agree that a regularly maintained V6 engine should last longer than that estimate.

Years ago, I was told by an ex-employee of a Toyota dealership who was working in SuperCheap Wagga Wagga NSW that the 2GR-FE engine should last until 400,000 kms before requiring any major rebuild work.

TBN is about neutralising acidic deposits and to protect the engine against corrosion.

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/articles/what-is-total-base-number/

https://www.spectrosci.com/resource-center/lubrication-analysis/literature/e-guides/guide-to-measuring-tantbn/ 

https://www.chevronlubricants.com/content/dam/external/industrial/en_us/sales-material/sales-sheet/ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS UNDERSTANDING TAN AND TBN 01-28-2019.pdf

 

No direct answer to your question about the speakers but have a read of this URL.

https://www.techwalla.com/articles/2-ohm-vs-4-ohm-speakers

Only reason i asked is because i wanted to keep the stock amplifier, headunit, etc

Hence why if they're 2ohm i'd want to keep them 2ohm, unless by wiring the rears with factory wiring would mean running 2 rear 4ohm speakers would tailor down to a 2ohm load, etc

Which had the nav maps updated just last year (god Denso went overboard back then to still offer map updates on an old system that still works)

8 hours ago, campbeam said:

After reading the following URLs, you are on the right track with a full synthetic 5W30 engine oil. Given that the engine oil capacity is only 4.7 litres [2GR-FE has 6.1 litres], I can now see why you are focused upon the TBN.

Apparently 1MZ-FE engine lifespan is 300K so best to stick with the proven results of using 5W30 and an oil change interval of 7500kms [assuming a fair bit of highway driving].

If you are tossing up options then consider reducing the oil change interval. 5000km is old school but oil is cheaper than having to replace an engine.

I do a lot of short distance driving e.g. 15km trips so I have a very reduced oil change interval, about every 2-3 months.

http://www.tcamanual.com/lubrication_system_1mz_8722_fe_3mz_8722_fe_-750.html

http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1mz/

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2453536/1

If anybody knows too, all speakers in the Avalon are 2ohm correct ?, i know the sub is

Just wanting to replace the factory ones with 2ohm replacements. If they're similar ohm's to the sub

8 hours ago, campbeam said:

After reading the following URLs, you are on the right track with a full synthetic 5W30 engine oil. Given that the engine oil capacity is only 4.7 litres [2GR-FE has 6.1 litres], I can now see why you are focused upon the TBN.

Apparently 1MZ-FE engine lifespan is 300K so best to stick with the proven results of using 5W30 and an oil change interval of 7500kms [assuming a fair bit of highway driving].

If you are tossing up options then consider reducing the oil change interval. 5000km is old school but oil is cheaper than having to replace an engine.

I do a lot of short distance driving e.g. 15km trips so I have a very reduced oil change interval, about every 2-3 months.

http://www.tcamanual.com/lubrication_system_1mz_8722_fe_3mz_8722_fe_-750.html

http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1mz/

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2453536/1

Well it's 4.5L w/out oil filter change

4.7L with oil filter change

5.5L Dry fill

So a flat 5L if you let oil drain for 15 - 20min (enough time for a coffee), i chuck the full 5L jug in. Barely touches over full, realistically 200ml over won't hurt anything. And with 1MZ's you let them run for a minute or 2 then check the engine oil level. But knowing manufactures, they're never always true, my L67 took 5.5L before it touched the full mark, etc, that runs 0w40, only having just touched 110k, i don't plan on changing it.

Well i did do some digging, what can i say 😝

Just wanted to clarify some things, get opinions, etc

Oh btw that's a proven 300k miles, not km's (or roughly 480,000km

Basically the TBN determines the grade of oil, higher TBN's not only cost more, but are superior at protection, neutralizing acidic deposits, etc. Kinda why i was considering a 0w30 or 0w40 simply because compared to 5w30's varying from 7.3 - 8.5, they're well over 10. Considering how much sulphur we have in our fuels, it better protects against deposits like that also 😁

49 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Absolutely, your workshop manual is your source of truth [as at the version date and Country e.g. USA vs Asia Pacific].

When it comes to recommended oil viscosity range, always refer to your owner's manual.

I regularly look at the Lube Guides for Penrite, Nulon etc for my specific vehicle. What I have noticed is that the preferred engine oil has changed over the years perhaps in line with he latest oil specifications, developments etc.

This is now the preferred oil for my 2006 Toyota Aurion with the 2GR-FE engine. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-5-5w-40-full-synthetic

It has a TBN of 10.4  https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/HPR 5 5W-40 (Full Synthetic).pdf

In contrast, the next recommended oil has a TBN of 10.2 https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/full-synthetic-10w-40

When I did an oil change today, I ended up using a combination of Shell Ultra 5W-30 and 5W-40 because that is what I had previously bought on special probably a few years ago and was immediately available.

It is very easy to get engrossed in the technical details/specifications but at the end of the day, I am going to buy the best quality oil suitable for my vehicle at the best sale price.

It is, hence why i was considering a 0w30 or 0w40, higher tbn's

Toyota adjusted the oil visco for 1MZ's later on, so i'm simply tossing up options as to what is going to suit best based on how well it's kept after 234k on 5w30, etc

Shell Helix Ultra with PurePlus (made of natural gas), i really was interested in considering it's apparently brilliant oil, great at cleaning, wear, etc

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I think that would be very beneficial. I wasn't able to find a specific workshop manual for the 50 series Aurion but another member here, Mark, (mg85, thanks again) was kind enough to send me a CD rom of a 40 series manual which does help in the mechanical dept as they both share a lot mechanically.

 

Hey, it's up to you entirely, but the 1MZ's were built around the time of tight tolerances, pretty much most cars post 2010'ish have looser tolerances to "reduce" friction & "improve" fuel efficiency, personally i think it's an excuse to cut costs, but i'm relatively old school even though i'm 23 😁

The only 5w30 i've seen from penrite is non-hpr range (more the vantage, etc) - which in my opinion from experience are no where near as good. I know there is a HPR 0w30 & 0w40

Maybe try them ?

I considered the 10 tenths racing 5w30 due to the high zinc content, but in saying that, the flashpoint was 30°C+ lower than comparable oils that had similar protection but higher flashpoint, TBN's were similar, etc

Maybe try Valvoline SynPower 0w30 ? (Toyota/Ford spec), very high tbn of 10.1

Compared to other fourms i've been part of, i can say Toyota's fourm is definitely more knowledgeable, inviting, helpful & talkative so thanks !

7 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I'm no oil expert but I think that's the operable word. Most of us either use the Nulon or Penrite brands. One, they are Australian made and two, they are excellent products.

I've been using the Nulon product since my purchase from 40K on the ODO to present (~120K) and I do it every 10K without a hint of sludge in fact. I couldn't be sure how those with sludged up engines treat their cars but mine is very clean.

If the 40w provides that litle bit extra during the punishment of the summer heat then I'm all for it too.

Yeah Nulon oils are great, especially those with MolyDTC, more slippery than a high zinc content oil, but not all nulon oils contain zinc as the main anti-wear package, where as i know the 5w30 doesn't, but 5w40, diesel 5w30 & a few others contain MolyDTC

But Penrite's HPR range is near untouchable

7 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Not a stupid question at all. I would hazard a guess and say that you may be able to find technical info like that in a workshop manual. I couldn't be sure or ask someone from Toyota service as they have access to all that technical data.

As far as the fans varying speeds according to load, that would be a simple no. They aren't that sophisticated that they'd install a variable speed drive device. They are as analogue as they come with relays and switches. 

Just out of interest, why do you need to know such information ?

I'm just a nosey *****, just trying to familiarise myself with what to expect based on temperatures, etc etc

Yeah analogue isn't a bad thing, you've got 2 speeds, low & high, depending on if A. The engine calls for the high speed cooling fan or B. The a/c system pressure gets above a certain threshold (mostly in summer where load is high & system pressures increase due to that extra load, i'm presuming)

I mean.... running a 40 weight oil might not be that bad, personally i'd run a 0w40 if i decided to run a 40 weight, otherwise i'd just stick with the preferred 5w30. I'm still considering giving 0w40 a try, but not sure if i should considering it runs like silk still on 5w30. 

Having not owned a Toyota before now, just simply trying to understand more i guess, probably should get a workshop manual 😄

22 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I think it would be prudent to do this during the winter cycle and then go to the 5w-40 during the hot season.

Stupid question, does anybody know the default cooling fans strategy ?, i've been trying to find info, but nothing definitive has popped up.

Cooling fan ON - @ what °C ?

Cooling fan OFF - @ what °C ?

A/C high pressure toggles high speed cooling fans at what kpa/psi, do the cooling fans vary in speed according to the A/C load, or simply have a low & high speed depending on system pressure.

Cheers !

7 hours ago, campbeam said:

Usual answer to this oil viscosity question is to check the owners manual for your specific vehicle. It is also dependent upon the ambient temperature particularly when you first start the vehicle and daily temperature range. After the recent cold snap, I am going to change the engine oil from 10W30 to 5W30.

I am planning my annual road trip for October/November this year assuming that the border between QLD and NSW is open. With daytime temperatures of 34+C and air conditioning on full, I will be using a higher oil viscosity 10W40 or 5W40 to better handle those operating conditions.

Heat range, viscosity index, tbn, etc

A high quality full synthetic 5w30 offers very comparable protection to a 5w40, in terms of flashpoint, etc

Very negligible, the viscosity at 40°C & 100°C is what i go by. I know the old trick in the book is use thicker oil, but that just isn't necessary. Especially with basically newer engines (made after 2000). 

I'm considering a Valvoline Toyota specific 0w30 simply because the tbn, flashpoint, viscosity index, etc are fantastic 

Tbn is around 10.3 vs commonly 8.5 from Penrite, etc

7 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I think it would be prudent to do this during the winter cycle and then go to the 5w-40 during the hot season.

I wouldn't be running a 40 weight oil in a 1MZ, anything above a 30 weight then they tend to be a bit lethargic, 5w30 by the book

Offers a more broad heat range over 10w30 & 15w40

5w30 i know is the preferred oil for 1MZ's, by Toyota. Unless you're ****** out oil, then i think you need some engine re-sealing lol

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Yep, It clearly states 202,500 then the following one is 210,000. They must have known that the 1MZ-FE was prone to sludge as is the 2GR-FE using inferior non synthetic oils. For what it's worth I never skimp on oil quality. I always use so called "fully synthetic" even if they won't tell you what it's actually made from.

Oil threads can get volatile with the amount of mis-information and opinions, so as a rule of thumb, just follow what the manufacturer recommendations are, stick to this and you can't go wrong. Just don't use mineral oil lol...

Enjoy your Avalon Tommy, they are a nice old car 

With the revised PCV system, etc the only 1MZ's affected by sludge were 1996 - 2001 globally, revision basically rectified every 1MZ 2002 - end of production. Toyota made the oil changes to every 7500km not just for sludge, but to better protect owners long term, and the fact that Toyota went above and beyond to make maintenance simple/well planned, but every 7500km is perfect, even in a brand new car i would still change it every 7500km, but that's just me & the experience i have with varying engines. They made the 1MZ's to last with high quality oils, etc. Later 3.5's were more notorious for sludge over the 1MZ, for some reason...

On 5/30/2020 at 4:03 PM, Tony Prodigy said:

My Dad had a 2000 model Avalon VX and it was a superior vehicle. Ran like a clock. He'd have it serviced regularly and it had well over 300, 000 kays on the clock before deciding to upgrade to a brand new Aurion. He only did this after he saw my 2012 Prodigy I purchased at the time and he fell in love with it, so he went and treated himself. He still has it and says it's the best car he'd ever had besides the Avalon. It's a shame it didn't quite catch on here, but in the U.S, the Avalon is a huge success. Have you seen the latest TRD version ??

OMG !! Why do the Americans get the nicest cars ?? If they sold this car here, I'd have one in a heartbeat !!

 

 

That's a very good question, it's a bit like the old Avalon, it was a pretty big seller in the states when it was new on the market, although it didn't really catch on here in Australia, as i mentioned, it's a really underappreciated car, because yes it has part relation to the Camry, but the wheelbase is longer, slightly wider, etc - by comparison i'd much rather have an Avalon with 4 airbags over a camry with 1, the 1MZ-FE was always bagged for sludging, but some have gone well in excess of 350k without a drop of sludge. which brings to my attention that people are selectively choosing to still change oil at 10,000km intervals with semi-synthetic oil, it's an age old question that 1MZ-FE's do last and are a lot less sludge prone using a full synthetic oil. Also, they have a standard service every 15,000km BUT,BUT,BUT there's an "interim" service that's in all 1MZ-FE owners manuals have oil changes stated every 7,500km (not 10k like i see people doing). But lucky for me, the previous owner was doing it every 6 months or 7,500km (whichever came first). But the majority of people never look, they only go off what's told to them, i'm aware that oils have changed since 2004, but the service intervals originally printed in the book, the dealership might say "next service in 10k km's", NO, simply NO, read the book, it says 7500km, so i plan on keeping it at 7500 km or 6 months (basically an interim service at 6 months & full service at 12 months). 

At least our Avalon got some of the old ES300 goodies which was fantastic, the Mark 3 Avalon had more of a Lexus-like rear end which really looked cleaner than Mark 1 & 2 models.

I'm just stuck on wether to keep it on 5w30 or go to a 0w30

If you look at the images provided to any 1MZ-FE owner, the service intervals are 7500km, simple ! 

55 minutes ago, campbeam said:

That is a real bonus feature particularly when the engine has a timing belt. Regular oil changes with a quality oil will address the oil sludge issue. 

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/camry-2002-v6-1mz-fe-timing-belt-ever-break-at-what-mileage.808442/page-2

I don't have a sludge issue so i'm not worried 🤣

The 3.5's in later Camry's are notorious for gelling/sludge. Good quality oil by the book 5w30 full synthetic or 10w30 alternatively but 5w30 they prefer long term, regardless of km's