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TommyM

Regular Member
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    148
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TommyM last won the day on October 9 2020

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35 Great Reputation

About TommyM

  • Rank
    Tom
  • Birthday March 28

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    2004 Toyota Avalon Grande (2 cars total)
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Victoria
  • How did you find us?
    From a Friend
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Travel
    Road Trips
    Entertainment
    Sports & Leisure

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Tom

Recent Profile Visitors

8,818 profile views
  1. It's a Colorado, enough said πŸ˜‚ GM used to do really good a/c, but nowerdays we're kidding ourselves.
  2. It's more down to compressor, condenser, evaporator & insulation around the HVAC box. Avalon's are around 900g off memory, but seeing how big some of the parts are, i can see why πŸ˜‚ Went down to illumo & fitted Flare 2.0L T15's They're $69 a set, but god it's so much better than halogen by miles. Wether i'm reversing at night or simply lighting up the road behind me where some morons still can't seem to see/understand reverse lights. So i'm like "f**k ya then, i'll make sure you can definitely see me backing out, and if you still can't see that ?, do us a favour and get
  3. Hahahahaha nothing wrong with that πŸ˜‚ Suppose if your headlights were brighter it would be better/easier ? I've got "darkest legal" in vic 35% front/20% rear Even though there's a 5% grace period (because all auto glass is different), but the Avalon's had really good glass in'em. Tons of dye to reject solar rays. Hence why my windows are 30% front & 15%, 17% & 19% for the rear.
  4. Nope, especially old Toyota/Lexus a/c which in my opinion is still colder than some new cars from Toyota/Lexus. Just isn't Also i've fitted LED reverse lights, god it feels good being able to actually see behind me at night now πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
  5. Clearly πŸ˜‚ But they're a stout automatic. Preventative maintenance is key !
  6. Neither, especially given Penrite's reputation. Stick with what you know & you'll never have an issue.
  7. I'd still buy an Aurion because i know how good they are. I don't know why they couldn't have a simple friggin dipstick, i'd be willing to bet there's a grommet where a dipstick could easily go. Even an LS430 has a friggin dipstick ! I've seen my reputation going up too, unexpectedly but hey. I'm half a computer on two legs πŸ˜‚ It's a good feeling knowing my input is going to use. Interesting thing i found out.... i had no idea the 1MZ had 4 bolt mains plus cross bolted mains πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ Isn't it a bit overkill ?, 6 bolt mains.... cmon
  8. Hey it's all good, look Penrite used to make a Red coolant (OAT) but now it's some Si-OAT formula which in result lost Toyota's SLL spec, but retained it's now superceded LL coolant. Yeah because it's right near a line coming off the A/C compressor. Being alloy i didn't wana be too vigorous πŸ˜‚ I'd like to keep my frosty a/c thanks, if you wana breathe out frost on a hot day, jump in an Avalon πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ I end up putting it on the lowest fan speed or turning the temp up, even in 35Β°+ Ohh, shhhhh i told you that out of confidence 🀭
  9. Touch wood, but i suppose now it's clean you can just dump & refill. I like that the A541E has a seperate differential for the V6 (inc a seperate drain) so i can easily flush the diff if i wanted. Ahhh how engineers make it ridiculous to do something nowerdays. If it has the WS spec, use it..... synthetics are superior for a reason. I'm running GF-6 oil, all of prior GF oils are backwards compatible. Only now the newer GF oils have superior protection over the outgoing ones (true fact, not an opinion) they further protect against LSPI which isn't always a Direct Injection thing. Knowing MZ
  10. I would only use a genuine Aisin/Toyota water pump & idler/tensioner. Gates belts are just as good as OEM, but i'll probably go OEM parts for that. Water pumps can be fine for 300,000km, if the coolant is kept clean. But i'll be making sure the water pump is done. I'd only buy concentrate then mix it myself, works out alot cheaper. I brought 6L of concentrate & diluted 2.5L to 2.5L demineralised water. Ended up buying a thing of premix, thinking i'd need it. Nope, i didn't, so it's spare πŸ˜‚ I know for a fact your Aurion will call for SLL, so Nulon Red coolant is your
  11. Penrite Multi Vehicle ATF FS https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-fs-full-syn The only Toyota fluid that's good these days is their CVT specific fluid, otherwise there's better ATF's aftermarket that are a synthetic base, not a mineral (basically half of Toyota ATF's) Not sure what the U660E calls for, but presumably Dex or LV ATF. Best thing to do is drain it, refill, drive for maybe 20mins, drain it again then refill accordingly. But my fluids always been spotless (courtesy of previous maintenance) which before i obtained it, i knew the woman haha. She wa
  12. Neither do i, but blowing out the cobwebs when the cars actually warm once in a while won't hurt anything. If mine hasn't broken in 240k+, i'm sure yours will be fine 😝
  13. Never flush an auto trans, big mistake. Just fill, run & dump, fill, run & dump. If you're unsure about previous maintenance history, thankfully i know every single record on mine lol. Annual drain & refills is a bit overkill mate, change it every 40,000km if the fluids clean. Consider having the filter replaced too.
  14. Yeah they also mention Dex III or Semi-Synthetic. I'm not using either & going straight to Full Synthetic & replacing it every 45,000km (even though i do mine every 40,000km). It's got all the Toyota specs on it i care for. They don't need filter replacements through regular fluid changes, but mine had a filter every 80,000km as a preventative. 80,000km, 160,000km & on my last service at give or take 237,000km, tad early but meh. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-fs-full-syn I also believe the U660E has similar ATF specs, they hadn't moved Australia over t
  15. Atleast Toyota/Aisin know how to build a CVT, unlike Jatco πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚

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