TommyM

33 minutes ago, campbeam said:

I was not sure whether it was the alternator pulley or the actual alternator that needed to be replaced.

Decided that the best option was to replace with a complete unit and the issue would be resolved. 

Was it a b*tch to do or ?

4 minutes ago, campbeam said:

While you await a reply from actual Avalon owners, I replaced the alternator in my Oct. 2006 Aurion in March 2019 after 207,500 kms. Original starter motor is still fitted.

There isn't many Avalon owners that's for sure haha !

Suprised you've had to replace yours if i'm honest.....

5 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Depending upon your perspective about future availability of these parts and long term ownership, it may be worthwhile acquiring spares at the right price.

Considering the 1MZ's starter is shared among the Kluger, RX300, etc. Alternators are interchangeable with the Kluger, etc (thus being higher outputs)

Plenty parts availability when you look at all models fitted with the MZ engine family.

7 hours ago, Toyollac said:

Morning All,

Hope you've been well.  

Just wondering how many k's you've gotten out of the original Alternator and Starter motor?

I know the stock ones are Bosch, so good quality.  I've got a 2004 Avalon with 130,000ks on it with the original starter and alternator - I was considering getting some preventative maintenance done and replacing them both... but I thought I'd ask and see how many k's you guys have gotten out of your original starter & alternators?

Cheers 🙂

I've still got the original Denso starter in my 04' Avalon & original alternator. 255k & counting.

Bearings are quiet, no pulley noise, etc

I wouldn't replace it as a preventative, because bosch quality has dropped significantly since 2004 sadly. Leave the original Denso starter until it actually quits haha !

Had my air-con regassed as maintenance not long ago, also dyed. System held 800g +/- 10g, recovered 794g, so a loss of 6g in what ?, 17 years ?, they really spent time back then making quality components. Toyota rely too much on the name now yet plenty other brands trumph them in reliability haha !

Never been gassed until now, wasn't dyed, now it's just as cold as i recall haha !

@Toyollac

Compared to my average fuel economy in my G6E though it's impressive. I hate the ridiculously long 2.73 final drive in my Falcon compared to my Toyota's not so highway friendly 3.93 final drive haha !

I honestly reckon 3.07's or 3.23's would improve fuel economy & performance across the range, even with the ZF 6HP26 in my G6E haha !

34 minutes ago, Toyollac said:

Fixed this with a bottle of Penrite Injector cleaner - after about 150ks it started to improve, 400ks later, totally gone.  Happy days!  Just seemed they were a bit gummed up.

Running minimum 95RON in these 1MZ-FE's does keep them substantially cleaner. Along with long highway runs periodically

The Nulon injector cleaner is better stuff, stronger concentration using less. Trust me

Fresh oil change & atleast a 400km highway only run, cruise control & she'll clean up a bit more

31 minutes ago, Toyollac said:

I think it's around the 11-12L per 100ks?  Yourself?

I'm averaging about 8.8L p/100km

Especially better since i replaced the O2 sensors my fuel economy improved, i'm not exactly light footed either by any means.

33 minutes ago, Toyollac said:

I certainly have!  I checked the fuses again, one was burnt out, replaced it and it was all fixed.  Don't know what they did to short it, but it hasn't shorted again since which is good.  

What fuse was it ?, if you looked at the diagram.

@Toyollac Hey interesting question... what's your average overall fuel economy in your Avalon at the moment ?

Hope you've had the issue rectified. I'm not looking forward to next weekend sadly 😂😂

8 hours ago, Toyollac said:

I read on some other forms there is some kind of wiring and switch in there, and maybe they knocked it about?  That is my guess, as the passenger side pillar had no issues being attached at all.

The best wiring diagrams are the ones you can get a hold of through some scan tools, a good toyota dealer will help you out, etc

I wouldn't trust a Haynes if you paid me. The only ones reputable are genuine ones, good luck finding one though.

8 hours ago, Toyollac said:

Can't rely on google reviews ladies and gentleman!

Unfortunately not 😂😂😂😂

8 hours ago, Toyollac said:

How it should be. 

 

Just took my Avalon to have the headliner trimmed...

Got my car back, and here is a list of issues:

1. Key only locks drivers door
2. Keyfob doesn't work
3. None of the interior lights work
4. In-dash clock doesn't work
5. None of the door controls work, including door switches.

I don't know what these **** retards have done, but they've totally ****** my car.

They also did a terrible job at refitting the trim on the drivers side panel. 

 

1 or 2 fuses missing, I think they've ****** up some wiring, goddamn I hope it wasn't done on purpose, but if it was...

Jesus, i'm sorry to hear you had someone botch a big expense. Especially re-doing a headlining. They've probably nicked a wire which could be shorting to ground thus blowing the fuse to protect the electrical system. There's also a fuse box hidden in behind the drivers kick panel where you'll find more things to do with locks, etc.

This is why i only go to trimmers my mechanics have personally dealt with, because he's even more anal than i am.

On 10/28/2021 at 2:54 PM, Toyollac said:

Can confirm I'd be worried about sludge build-up. 

What trim level?

I would have been very interested a few weeks ago, but I'd be getting a mechanic to go over it and check for any sludge build up in the engine - they'll be someone out there who appreciates it. 

If it's the base model GXI - Maybe 9k if you're lucky. 

If it's the highest trim model (leather, sunroof, woodgrain) then 10k would be reasonable I think.

I picked up a 127,000k 2004 Avalon for $6k recently with a RWC  - needed hardly anything done to it bar a new headliner and trans fluid flush and service, and the standard oil change.
This was a base model GXI, and purchased form a dealership.

Oh definitely plenty people would appreciate them, i for one really do like driving it long distance more than my G6E for one big reason, the seat base cushion is longer, thus my legs don't get fatigued (i'm roughly 6ft1), so after a long drive my legs can feel a little flat, if i've driven my G6E.

Best thing is they have kick ***** air con too regardless of trim level, mine sits around the 2°C (at the vents) before the compressor kicks off.

You do also get some top spec level exclusives you don't find on the VXi (mid spec) or even GXi (base). And believe me i hope i never have to replace'em haha !

A serviced 1MZ-FE is a sweet engine. Mines got 255k almost & i've had no issues with it at all. Replacing sensors, etc is all maintenance. Stick to the 7500km interval & i can almost bet you'll never have major issues. I fitted a catch can to my G6E recently (baffled setup) & boy am i suprised at how much s**t isn't going back through into my intake then my engine. Even freshly serviced 1500km ago there's a nice build up at the bottom of the can, i would reccomend it to anyone with a petrol engine. Very easy to service/maintain too !

I'm fitting one to my Toyota next service. When i get some photos i'll happily share my tidy setup i have on my FG currently.

I over maintain my cars, but hey.... look at how clean/quiet they are by comparison 😁

14 hours ago, Toyollac said:

I'll be calling the mechanic tomorrow.

Will update soon.

Good luck !

Even the ignition coils could be possibly breaking down. I've been lucky with mine being original with over 250k, i've always ran 98RON in it because i know how anal the 1MZ's are & how sensitive they can be. Minimum should have been 95RON in my opinion like the Lexus ES300 (non VVTi)

44 minutes ago, Toyollac said:

Yes, the twin tips were used, I made that point when I bought the car in 🙂

So the sparkulators have been replaced, I've put in a bottle of Penrite injector cleaner, 75ks in and no change so far, so it doesn't appear to be the Injectors.

When I bought the car it was fine, and I always put in 98, so the oxygen sensor could deffs be a potential.

I'll be bringing it in for an oil change late December, so I'll get some engine cleaner through it, fuel and air filter done etc... unless it get's worse, in which case I'll get it looked at ASAP - I don't think it's detrimental to the engine, just slightly annoying.

Odd that it only happens at low speeds.  I wonder if the surging will start to be seen at higher speeds?  

In better news... my 1974 Riviera is running smooth as a whistle!  Thought I'd share a picture (just picture it as an Avalon)

It can actually be detrimental because if an O2 sensor is dead, it will default to a universal fuel trim strategy (aka rich) which will end up giving you oil dilution before the next service. They're easy enough on the Avalon to replace. I also nailed mine by doing testing, including multiple WOT pulls, noticeable flat spots in areas, etc. Now it pulls clean & hard all the way just over 6000rpm under WOT without any dead spots. I've also fitted a catch can as a preventative measure with the correct separator not the cheap steel wool special. 

On 11/7/2021 at 2:43 PM, Toyollac said:

Afternoon All,

Another small issue with my Avalon...

This generally happens when the car is warm, but it can happen cold. 

When I accelerate at low speeds, up to 20 kph either reversing or in drive, I get some slight jolting, about 4 - 6 times before it smooths out.  When it jolts, it feels like it looses a bit of power.
This happens maybe 1/12 times I accelerate.

Accelerating at higher speeds is not an issue, there is no jolting.

The spark plugs have been replaced, so no issue there.

Had the trans and oil done recently.

 

Anyone have this issue before in their Avalon?  I know there can be a multitude of different potentials, but I was wondering if someone else has experienced this in their Avalon?

It's got approx 128,xxx ks. 

 

Any help would be awesome 🙂

I had a similar issue not long ago. I replaced both the oxygen sensors because one was dead. Wasn't throwing a fault code suprisingly but the circuit was probably still good. I completely decarbonised the engine. Cleaned the throttle body, egr, etc.

Also replaced spark plugs & put new leads.

Been running flawlessly since. I replaced the fuel filter (in tank) & it actually picked up a bit more hp because the one in it was blocked as f**k 😂😂

Another thing worth mentioning. Were the correct twin tip platinum plugs used ?

They run a waste spark system. Personally i stuck with original Denso spark plugs.

3 hours ago, Toyollac said:

Morning All,

New member here - posted in the new members section as well, if you wanna have a geeze.

I'm wanting to take my Avalon cross country, and I'm purchasing a few backup parts just to be safe (fuel pump, starter, alternator etc)

I'll admit, I'm having some issues with the starter... according to a gentleman I spoke to, there are two different starters, very minor differences, but they aren't interchangeable between the Avalon models - does anyone know if this is the case?

I've got a 2004 Avalon MKIII GXI if that means anything - maybe there was a slight change is starter from the previous models, and MKIII? 

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this 🙂 

 

Cheers.

I do remember Toyota changing the starter for Mark 3 Avalons & other 1MZ-FE powered applications in 2003 for a higher output starter motor. I'd ring a reputable starter, get the one listed for yours based off your rego on the Toyota database, then ring a reputable parts store, give them the genuine number and see if it crosses over. Me personally ?, i wouldn't run anything but a Denso starter.

All Toyota Avalon's (Australian built) 

2000 - 2005 (all trims levels)

Mark 1, 2 & 3

Charge Capacity (courtesy of Croydon Toyota)

800g (+/- 50g) 

Effective system capacity

800g - 850g

Please feel free to post/submit (ideally from toyota or in your owners manual) your a/c refrigerant charge capacity, so that anybody enquiring will know accurate instead of third party false information. Like i've seen from numerous alternatives that do a/c components.

Include a page image and/or information similar format how i've put it below 🙂

ALL TOYOTA/LEXUS MODELS INCLUDED

8 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Oh ok then. I suspect perhaps our climate being more harsh than the Northern Hemisperically challenged folk, hence the need for the larger evap coil.

I think it was more than an evap coil, condenser, compressor, etc. To my knowledge, all i know is they're not cheap to replace 😂😂

8 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Makes sense. Car systems are usually between 650g to around 800g anyway and a good fridgy would be able to charge it correctly without the need for an exact quantity anyway. But in saying that, one can drop an exact charge in and walk away just as quickly too.

My G6E holds 520g (+/- 10g)

Most newer systems hold less & less. Hell a VF holds 470g. Refrigerant is a weird thing at how little amount can do the job, they'll never be as cold as older GM's though. I think the Aurion's aroung the 500g mark too off memory.

8 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Oh ok then. I suspect perhaps our climate being more harsh than the Northern Hemisperically challenged folk, hence the need for the larger evap coil.

Makes sense. Car systems are usually between 650g to around 800g anyway and a good fridgy would be able to charge it correctly without the need for an exact quantity anyway. But in saying that, one can drop an exact charge in and walk away just as quickly too.

Mate of mine does a/c, so i just wana get the system checked. Every automotive a/c leaks a small miniscule percent every year. So it's a simple clean bill of health basically. My FG MKII (when they actually got the a/c right) is just as good as my Toyota in terms of coldness. Sub 4° temps at the vents.

FG mark 1's though were awful, then they went backwards again with the FG-X lol

They average 8° at the vents hahaha !

10 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Hey Tommy, hope you're well.

Is your refrigerant decal missing ?

Here's what I found mate. I also verified it here.

23 oz = 625 grams/ R134A

A sticky would be a good Idea. The mods will have to approve it of course.

Cheers 

Those are the US systems. Upon ringing the Toyota dealers, two of which i know. They both verified it's an Australia-Specific system unlike the US models, bigger evap, etc. The Camry's run a different system although the 1MZ compressor is identical. All other components are different. Hence why they probably run around the 650g mark.

Charge capacity from two dealers is actually 800g (+/- 50g)

But i appreciate the help regardless. How can i get a sticky/thread put in the workshop area ? Lol

Hey all, just wondering if anyone happens to know the exact refrigerant capacity for an 04' Mark 3 Avalon ?

Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to make a sticky/thread in the workshop area for all Toyota models & relevant refrigerant charge capacity.

Camry, Landcruiser, Landcruiser Prado, Aurion, Avalon, Corolla, etc.

@Tony Prodigy

I was doing some research and calling up a few contacts that i know. So i've used Penrite ENVIRO+ GFS in both my Toyota & G6E, now.... after several services i personally don't think it stands up to the expectations i want. I stick with their ATF's purely because i know they're brilliant, higher flashpoints than alot of the competition, similar composition makeup with a bit better additive/anti-wear packs, etc. But oil wise i'm switching to Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, upon looking as the base oils & GTL. I'm looking forward to having the protection i want, etc. The Ultra better competes with Penrites Ten Tenths range. Also i was very particular about the dynamic viscosity at -30 (Helix ultra's tested at -40), suppose shell wanted to go a bit further, along with at 40°C & 100°C. Now.... the HPR5 is brilliant don't get me wrong, but the base oils in the Helix Ultra exceed, whilst being a not overly thick 5w40 which is what i was after. Both are SP spec which is well above the specs back when they were new. It'll be interesting to see the results come the next intervals. Less impurities, better final product i say. Off memory Penrite & Nulon get alot of their oil from Singapore, where alot of the base in Shell is Qatar haha !

I remember one of you boys saying you've had nothing but good results with it. 

Notes worth mentioning.... Even the 5w30 X Helix Ultra has a higher flashpoint than the GFS & HPR5. 

7 hours ago, Hiro said:

I'm not in Greater Sydney so the 5km radius thing only ever applied if I was leaving my LGA.  Same situation with my parents though, my mum lives home alone (my dad died back in 2018) and for the last ~12 months she's been undertaking ~150k worth of landscaping, I was going around weekly/fortnightly taking progress photos but haven't been able to get there since the last lockdown started (she lives in another LGA even though she's only ~30 minutes away)

My condolences man, jesus that's rough. But what a way to honour your father. She's a legend !

I lost mine back in 2016, so i feel you man. 

I'm sure the end result of the garden will be simply astounding !

21 hours ago, campbeam said:

What I really appreciate of a road trip is when you have the open road/highway very much to yourself after a breakfast at sunrise.

You can just relax and cruise at a comfortable pace.

Recently got a reminder of how peaceful and relaxing it is for me with deserted suburban roads and that was an early Sunday morning before 6AM.

Exactly !

That's why if i wana go cruising i'll take the Avalon, it's a slower pace in which you take time in, sunroof open, music playing, etc.

I mean, it's not underpowered in anymeans, it gets me out of trouble willingly. Not M3 fast, but still faster than some cars on the road, so it'll keep up with traffic. I'm looking forward to really putting it through it's paces. Since the new shocks, tyres, etc. Only thing i'll do when they get knocky is full bushes swap over to superpro. Combined with a slightly better sway bar & stronger sway bar links. As it is, it wants to hug the turn & just go hahaha. Where as if i want to be spirited. I'll take my G6E or mothers Calais which is firmer again lol.

I'm insured to drive all 3 haha !

9 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I'll P.M you Tommy. Thanks mate 

Oil filter:

Mann-Hummel: HU 926/4X (or mahle equiv)

Air: Mann-Hummel: C25 114 (or mahle equiv)

Cabin: Mann-Hummel: CU 2835 (they seem to fit better than Ryco & Wesfil when it comes to german cars)

AGM are simply beefier stop/start approved batteries which have higher cca, reserve current (rc), etc. I'd use Century/Yuasa or Varta, i've got a supercharge in my G6E at the moment. No issues what so ever.

Battery Options: 

TechChg - Our brand (made by federal batteries): DIN65LH-TS

(680cca)

Varta - E44

(780cca)

Supercharge: MF66 

(720cca)

Just to rub it in....

Oxy sensor for cyl 1 - 3: EGO-199 (bosch)

Cyl 4 - 6: EGO-199 (bosch) PAT Premium is literally branded products in different boxes.

Coolant fan switch: 

CFS-076 (black connector)

CFS-035 (white connector)

Alternator belt: 6PK1510 or 6PK1560

A/C: 5PK1120

Thermostat: TT405-174P

Thermostat Housing Seal: TTG33

Waterpump: (GMB) WP9810

Very high quality pumps too.

Front Pads: DB1131-Euro+

Front Rotors: DBA 984E or 984S (Slotted)

Rear Pads: DB1132-Euro+

Rear Rotors:

Pagid: 50266PRO (Left)

Pagid: 50267PRO (Right)

Wear Sensor Front: BWS1052 or Pagid P8081

Wear Sensor Rear: BWS1005 or Pagid P8013

Coils: IGC-053 (bosch)

Plugs: NGK PKR7A, wouldn't use bosch plugs nowerdays haha !.

Future reference.