julian040859

I would not be concerned as we have the earlier models and have found all the faults so you get the perfect model!

Here is an exert from..........Camry Stuff...... Gen6......Brake Manual Page BR 50 It confirms what superdave has posted for FRONT Disc Brakes 2. INSPECT DISC THICKNESS (a) Using a micrometer, measure the disc thickness. Standard thickness: 28.0 mm (1.102 in.) Minimum thickness : 25.0 mm ( 0.983 in.) If the disc thickness is less than the minimum, replace the front disc.

Thanks mate, let me know how you get on.

You too eh? I've had this problem for a fair while myself, unfortunately we've yet to locate the cause. I've worked with my dealer for many a month trying to figure it out but just no dice. Initially it started on the drivers side, but that was a seperate issue. I hope you have better luck than I did. Can you tell me where you think it is coming from , perhaps one of the spots identified already in my vehicle? What have you tried, mine seems to be worse when you actually drive while it is raining, I think the wind pressure forces water in.

Since new I have experienced rain water in the passenger's side boot well. So far we have identified, water leaking from rear window, roof seam, boot vent, boot rubber and still water comes in. I now suspect that there is also water leaking from petrol filler or somewhere above that area as I have tracked water marks to that area. There also seems to be some coming in around near the rear light assembly. Can someone please help as this is an unbelievable problem.

Try this link, it is for Gen6 Camry but almost the same as Aussie Aurion. It has been very useful for me. http://www.camrystuff.com/index.php?page=Gen6_Manuals

Has anyone experienced the rear portion of interior roof headlining sagging? I would like a picture of what sort of clips are used if anyone has a spare one hanging around. I suspect I may have to remove a lot of fittings to get to the part that needs repair. It is near the rear window.

I am in the market for a 2004 CVX. I have found one but I am a bit concerned that most of the 10,000 km services were done at 16,000 to 20,000. Sometimes two services were done together. The car is otherwise mint condition. It has done 119,000 km. Would there be much engine damage because of these long intervals.

mmmm...okay. cheers for the info. thats helped me make up my mind now. Just needed feedback from someone who actually owns a FT 4wd vehicle. thanks again mate. Had a 1996 GXL Prado since new until two eeks ago. Definitely constant 4wd with centre diff lock when you needed it off road. Servicing cost were not that bad.

Need to change my driver's seat belt. You won't believe but they are $598 AUD retail at the dealership! Can anyone tell me where to get a cheaper one and what is the caution sticker on the main bottom mechanism about turning a pin to lock the sensor for removal and unlocking once installed as per the attached photo.

Can anyone tell me what I should pay for a driver's side seatbelt on my 1996 GxL Prado and where I could find a replacement.

Thanks for reply. Does anyone know how to shift this post to Kluger sub forum as I have posted it in the wrong one?

Looking for a guide to work out if most cars do 25,000kms a year, how much do you reduce a car's value if the mileage is high. For instance, I am looking to buy a 2005 Kluger CVX with 160,000kms. Is there a rule of thumb for every say extra 10,000kms do you drop the price by $1,000 to $2,000.

Looking for a guide to work out if most cars do 25,000kms a year, how much do you reduce a car's value if the mileage is high. For instance, I am looking to buy a 2005 Kluger CVX with 160,000kms. Is there a rule of thumb for every say extra 10,000kms do you drop the price by $1,000 to $2,000.

I have a 1996 Prado. Had it since new. I have had the recall for rear axle. Inside the driver's side door there is a sticker with Campaign Number: 6521D. I am about to sell mine in the next month. You should look for the sticker. Here is a trascript of the defect Defect Details: Due to insufficient strength of the rear axle shaft flange, a crack may develop at the neck of the flange if the vehicle is operated in certain driving conditions, such as repeated high speed driving on winding mountain roads. If the vehicle continues to be operated in this condition, the crack may expand and in the worst case, the flange could fracture causing wheel separation.

I have attached a copy of the beam they replaced in my Prodigy, the rattle was in the section just to the right of the radio mount. I've also had two kits installed for the general squeaks and creaks plus a new centre vent to stop the a/c "leaf" sound. I reckon I now have the quietest Aurion dash in Australia! Your dealership would know of the dash rattle kits and centre vent replacement as they are both very common. To my knowledge no one else has had the same problem with the beam that was replaced on mine.

You would think that common faults are related to built date. Mine was July 2007.

Apart from the creaks and squeaks, I had a sound that came on during higher interior temperatures that sounded like a bolt bobbying around in a plastic mug. Turned out to be a faulty beam that everything under the dash is bolted to. It has a telescopic section where the inner rattled against outer wall. What is your rattle sound like? Mine sounds rather similar, but has a more "metallic" ring to it and only occurs after the car has been idling for approx 30 seconds. I have a suspicion it is a cover from something, because if I travel over a fairly sharp bump at slow speed I can hear the rattle occur momentarily. It only comes back randomly however, which is rather frustrating to diagnose - but more often in hot weather, or after a half hour of fairly steady driving. Load has minimal effect on it, or so it seems. I had a look for that beam, but I think I may have to start pulling many things apart to check it, so I will just ask the service guys to take a look when it is serviced. I have a list of things they need to check during the service... just another item to add! My noise was metalic but muffled by all the things attached to the main beam, that's why I say it's like a bolt in plastic mug. Also, because the beam is hollow, the sound travels all the way through it. The rattle was actually starting behind the instument panel but I thought it was more closer to behind the radio towards passenger side. I could always reproduce the sound by leaving my car out in the sun,(help expand the outer part of telescopic beam) then driving on grass at say 15kmph. The grass is bumpy and you don't hear road noise. Try a vacant block of land or a park/oval, it's great for rattles!

Apart from the creaks and squeaks, I had a sound that came on during higher interior temperatures that sounded like a bolt bobbying around in a plastic mug. Turned out to be a faulty beam that everything under the dash is bolted to. It has a telescopic section where the inner rattled against outer wall. What is your rattle sound like?

If the noise goes away when you put window down, does that not suggest the rattle is in the door? If it is in the dash, ask passenger to put pressure on top of dash to see if that deadens sound.

I've been complaining about noise from my sunvisors. My Prodigy was built July 07. The dealership originally thought it was from the clips and put some lube on them, however it is actually in the spring mechanism inside each visor. Most visors have quite a spring effect in the last 2 cm when you put them up. Mine do not have any spring tension to bring them back tight to the headlining. They are finally ordering two new sun visors! Anyone else had similar expeience?

Yeeha!!!! Finally had my dash rattle fixed. It was the fourth time the dash was taken out. Dwyers Bairnsdale Toyota are now experts. It was the main beam as per picture that was causing rattle. Previous fixes were basically bigger clips with felt or foam padding. It so good I can now hear rattles elsewhere like from the sunvisors. So good knowing they finally nailed the problem with the dash. The part is being sent back to Toyota for testing, I feel a bit like a guinea pig for Toyota. Now all I have to do is get a couple of new sunvisors and clips that hold them in.

Had my dash fixed twice and then a new rattle started. They pulled it out for a third time and found the main metal beam that everything is bolted to has a sort of telescopic section. When the interior temperature rises through parking in the sun, the metal expands on the outer section of the telescopic beam then the inside piece rattles. They will pull out dash for the fourth time when the part comes in, probably two more weeks. It sounds like a bolt bobbying around in a plastic mug. 4 times dash out........Top that! See attached picture of suspect part.

I have a rattle coming from behind the centre console. I have a post about 'Broken Intrusion Bar". Turns out that the steel bar that everythng is attched to has a defect. The sound is like a bolt bobbying around in a plastic mug. See attached PDF. Toyota_Beam.pdf

The dealership sent me a PDF of the part required. To me, it is not really an intrusion bar as such. It is a beam that everything under tha dash is attached to. I think it actually keeps the sides apart and gives strength to the cabin from side impact. Toyota_Beam.pdf