DJKOR

Man; the comments are awesome. I just wanna keep on reading to see what else has to be said. Like sure, not everyone has the best looks in the world, but some things aren't meant to be published like that. Keep it in the zoo or something. Favourite quote so far: key word creature

I won't be out tonight. It's the end of exams for some of my student friends, and that only means one thing... time for some drinking.

I'm not sure about other states, but this is what I know so far for Queensland. Any indented quotes are from the documents available at http://www.police.qld.gov.au/programs/road...nfringement.htm: I have a photo here of my Camry caught speeding with my Dad driving it back in 1997 (got it enlarged for joke purposes). That photo was captured front on as well. It has a marker on it just like this example: As you can see, the unit is made to capture the car going either forward or away from traffic. That was more than 10 years ago as well that it could do that, and it still can. As for there being massive error... well I must admit that it was pretty spot on for my last fine (shown on my post above). If anything, it may have been under the speed I thought I was doing. Like I said, my knowledge is for QLD, but you would think other states have similar. For us, there is no requirement to have any speed camera or radar warning signs or the like. They are only there as a courtesy. And anyways, in my opinion the warnings defeat the purpose of the speed camera. If they hide the camera and you get caught speeding, it's not their fault. You shouldn't have been speeding. Anyways, quoting the QLD Police information page: Yes I hate speed cameras like everyone else. Fact of the matter is, if you were speeding, then bear the fine. If you are more than certain that you weren't speeding (and you would know if you definitely weren't), then you can seek action to have it withdrawn.

On a main note; one way to find out if it is really a central filter that you need is to disconnect everything from your phone line and see if your internet works. Provided that everything that was originally connected had a single filter on it, if it makes a difference, then a central filter would be a good option. If when you unplug everything, the internet still doesn't work, then a central filter may not guarantee a fix. Now you did mention you had a house alarm right? Is it a back-to-base that is connected to your phone line? If so, you would usually require a central filter in this case as they like to intefere with ADSL. The central filter is best installed as close to the point in which the phone line enters your residence, just before being split up to all the individual phone sockets. The installation is pretty straight forward, kinda just like a y-hose. The central splitter consits of one input with two outlets. When you wire it up before the phone line splits, one branch of the 'y' which is filtered goes to all the individual phone sockets, and the other connection goes to the ADSL router. Now usually the point where the main line enters the house before it splits is located out of the way from everything else. Every house varies, so it would be up to you to find that. Ours for example splits in the garage on the opposite side of the power meter box. Since this area is out of the way, you then need to either place your router near the splitter, or run some phone cable from the unfiltered portion of the central filter to wherever you want to place your router. The entire process is extremely straight forward. That said though, because it involves modifying the phone line, it is classified as illegal to do it yourself without the appropriate cabling license. This doesn't stop many people though but just be aware of that if you were to go that route.

Depending on the surface that you are on, temperature, and tyre conditions (all normal variables), you can experience some slight wheel spin when it is up-shifting from first to second and you've got your foot down. I seem to get that a lot now, but that's only because I really really need some new tyres. As for the optimum shift point, there is no exact answer for that. That only really comes with experience. The thing is, there are variables which affect how fast the tacho needle will climb (even if the difference is fractions of a second slower), and as a result, the shift point can vary. With a little experience, you will learn to adjust your reaction to be able to select the next gear in time so that the car will shift just before redline. As a general example to get you started, if you have your foot all the way down, shifting about 1000-1200 RPM before redline seems to be around the right spot.

Sorry to kind of bump this thread, but because of recent issues, I have taken the effort to upload the iGO8 software (originally linked in this thread) setup to run on this head unit (or any other with a resolution of 480x234). This download contains the base software, maps for Australia (Sensis R14), and Australian POI's. Just extract onto your SD card and you're good to go. I don't know how long the link will remain active for since it seems that links to download iGO8 and maps for it keep getting deleted here and there. http://www.megaupload.com/?d=KWJ2YBNJ

DJKOR said that you only have to dissemble the bumper if you want to perfect align the lights? So I'm guessing you can install the HIDs without taking your bumper off, and just having the hood up? (Sorry I'm a complete noob) It depends on just how perfect you want to have it. I was considering pulling the bumper off to mount the ballasts perfectly, but I didn't want the fun task of pulling it off again if the ballast was to eventually fail. Therefore:

That at the least. NO form of drifting should happen on the streets regardless of the car. That's no joke as well. On top of that, it's hard enough trying to initiate a drift on a FWD. All my talk here about the VSC has primarily been for a worst case scenario. All my testing for it has been in the wet to simulate the road near it's worst. I've been driving FWD since I got my licence, so I've had a bit of play around in the wet with FWD. If you slide out in the wet in a FWD, once the weight has shifted dramatically, it ain't a fun task to recover. This is why the VSC is really useful and that in the wet or slippery road conditions, you can be sure that it will help you get out of trouble if you unexpectedly cornered a little too hard. On that note, if the VSC works wonders in the wet, I have no doubt that on dry road it would keep the car perfectly on track. As I will always say though, just remember it is there as a supplemental safety system. Don't go trying to push your car beyond it's limits. If you ever do loose control, it is not a pleasant experience.

The sports mode is definitely the mode to use when you want to push your Aurion for the best sprint possible. It just takes a little practice to make sure you shift it at the right point since the lag in gear shift is a PITA sometimes. On a side note, what's really odd is that I have not gotten used to the reversed shifting direction on the Aurion even after driving around with it again for the last couple of weeks. When I first got the Aurion, I got used to the 'pull to downshift, push to upshift', but after driving my sister's car which has it the opposite (the correct way), I have not been able to adjust back to the Aurion. It feels way too unnatural. I am really considering swapping the wires around so that it will reverse the direction, but being the picky person that I am, I need to figure out how to swap the + and - around on the gear selector first.

What annoys me most is that when people tail you and you obviously have nowhere to go (ie. you're stuck behind slow cars yourself). I especially love it though when the idiot tailing behind you sees some empty space in the left lane and cuts into there and accelerates to a few cars ahead only to realise there is no room to move back in. Then I accelerate up so they have no room to move in, and then like to adjust speed so any cars behind me now block that car out and they end up further back in the line. And like RME1 said, it's hell fun when you can make them become agitated then speed past a speed camera or unmarked. The one thing I love to do as well to those that tail badly is press on the brakes very lightly then accelerate off. You can actually press it lightly so that the brake lights come on, but the brakes don't. Really fun to see them get a shock as you accelerate off.

I'm no expert in physics, but I think that the system is able to adjust steering movements by braking and throttle adjustments alone. Say hypothetically that braking pressure was to only be applied to one side of the car. The car would then 'steer' towards the side that the braking is applied on. Based on this concept, the VSC system and pulsate the brake on any wheel individually many times per second to be able to obtain this type of control. The following bit of information gives a brief explanation of how it works in general. Toyota New Zealand - VSC in Action

Firstly, I DO NOT condone 'testing' your VSC system like I have done here. So anyways, since the road was nice and wet, I thought I would have a little 'reasonably controlled' fun. There is quite a bit of industrial estate around here with wide roads and room to spare all around. Needless to say, I took my car for another 'spin', or should I say lack of it. Now I've been here before in my old car so I know the degree in which one can easily spin out. All I can say is that the VSC on the Aurion is pretty f*cking good when in the wet. The one key to making it work effectively though is to NOT try and compensate for any skid. Doing so will create a back and forward correction mess like when you're walking towards someone and step to one side and they do the same, etc. As mentioned earlier, I found out that the system DOES actually beep when it's doing its job, but it doesn't do it all the time; hence why I never heard it before. If you have some minor slip, like nothing TOO major, the system should remain silent and the VSC light will just flash. However, if you are in a serious situation and the VSC has to work harder, the light will flash and it will give double beeps until it has corrected itself. When the system beeps, you really know that it just saved your a**. All I can say from this experience is that the VSC does exactly what it is meant to do. It's a weird feeling when it does its job, but at least I feel safer that it can really help out in a unsafe situation. Like I said, you just need to ignore your instinct and not try and forcefully correct it when it slides out. That's the hardest part because when it kicks in, it still feels like you are going to slide out of control, but the car somehow manages to stay on track even though you may feel like it has absolutely no traction. Anyways, drive responsibly and just keep in mind that the VSC will always be there to help you out and most likely save you, but don't let that assurance replace proper driving techniques.

What's funny is that about 1 month ago, there was an A/V install job going on in Perth. I was about to head there but had to study instead. Would have saved both me and you some money since the trip would have been covered by work. Now as promised, I'll write up to the best of my knowledge. Firstly, here are some links to get started: - Has anyone installed Bosch HID conversion kit? (shows possible mounting points) - xenon conversion to head lights and foglights - parker lights - Interior Lights - Help with LED installing So with the HID's, how much you really want to spend is up to you. Most people feel more secure buying a kit with a bit of cost to it. I guess it gives the sense of quality. Now it is true that paying extra for quality is worth it, but only if you spend it on a kit in which that extra money pays for the build and not for a senseless profit. If I was to go for HID's, I would personally go for a kit off eBay that is between $60 to $100 (shipping included). The thing with cheap kits is that there is bound to be a faulty kit out there somewhere, and when someone talks about it, the cheap kits get a bad reputation. If this happens to the expensive kit, the blame usually shifts to the end user and the reputation of the more expensive kit is saved. Either way, most of this stuff is made in the same place, so a kit off eBay for $60 to $100 should be fine. Now onto the colour temperature. Given your scenario, I would highly recommend 5000k to 6000k. If you want the best in whiteness and brightness, go for the 5000k, but if you want it with a slight tinge of blue, go for the 6000k. Both are just about as bright, and performance is close to the same, so it's really up to you. I would definitely not go for 8000k or higher as for you this would probably not be necessary and as well, it's performance in the rain is crap because blue light doesn't bounce back as well through rain and fog. 8000k is alright in the CBD since there is already some ambient lighting and there are many street signs and road markings to reflect the light. Now in case you are curious, I bought my HID's from the eBay seller "SUNSTAR-HID". I in no way am sponsoring this guy, I'm just saying that this is who I bought off and have had no issues. For you, I would suggest to just replace your low beams and fog lights. Both use the H11 bulb base. You will get extra glare from the fog light HID's so don't go driving around other cars with them on. I would suggest keeping the stock halogens in the high beams as they are a pretty good high powered bulb. Just buy the HID kits, and then try and see if you can install it yourself. If you hit a wall, consult with mates and if not, then look into getting someone to help install. You should be able to get away with doing it yourself, but you just need to look at it all first. While on the lighting topic; LED's. There are a few gains for swapping your bulbs to LED's and in order of most to least beneficial (IMO): they use less power, they last longer, they are brighter, and they look better. The reason why the brightness factor is lower on the list is because LED's can be brighter to look at, but they don't project light as far. The main reason to change them though is purely for the looks, and any disadvantages are usually outweighed. The door lights, map reading lights, parkers, and number plate lights all use a 5W T10 style bulb. You can easily get LED replacements off eBay by searching with the parameter "T10 LED SMD <insert colour>". If you don't have the moonroof, your dome light uses a 31mm festoon bulb and you can easily get festoon LED replacements off eBay as well. You can go to other online LED stores, but eBay is the most convenient I find. Now for the electronic or passive wildlife deterrents like the Shoo Roo (Roo Shoo?) they work in concept, but every situation varies and it can not be a guarantee that it will work. Like you can get one and hope that it does it's job (and maybe it will) and if you never hit a roo, you may then think that it was the device. But was it really that, or did you just have good luck? Like it may be effective at slow speed, but at a higher speed, you can never guarantee that the roo is going to be deterred quick enough and in the right direction. You never know, it may even get shocked and actually jump into the path of the car when it was never going to in the first place. I personally wouldn't go with one unless you have money to spend to experiment. Hope all that helps for now.

it happens if you travel a lot. Anyway, just to let you know, TC beeps. Actually, funny that the beep question was brought back up. On my way out tonight, since the road is wet I thought I would give my VSC a run on a closed open area. I guess it really does beep. I was actually expecting the beep to be the one like the seatbelt warning tone, hence why I probably never noticed it. The beep is just a short double higher frequency beep, similar to the hourly beep on a watch. So there you go.

Very nice purchase you've got there. Should be a nice comfortable ride as well. I'm pretty sure SecaBoy said the same thing. LOL. But yeah, just do minor things like LED's and HID's. Though usually once you get the ball rolling, you will find it harder to stop.

Yup... because that's definitely what the Aurion was built to do.

*Double post. The problem with posting from a phone. Why can't work unblock forum access.*

Sorry nele, gotta correct you there. I lost 4 points off my licence with a camera unit parked on the other side of a two way road with two lanes each side. Those camera units are getting better I think. To aurion_zr6, haven't you seen Stealth's signature, LOL. He seems to be promotion a site for challenging speeding fines. As for the accuracy of the gauge, mine is off (showing a speed slower than actual) by about 3km/h at 60 and by about 4km/h at 100. I never really travel on the limit, so I haven't experimented with the best point to have the needle. As a rule of thumb, having the left edge of the needle against the right edge of the speed marking should keep you in line with the true speed (each case can vary). Edit: Here is what I got in the mail. Now I may not have been the furthermost away from the camera, but I have no doubt that the camera would be able to capture the other lane as well. Don't ask how I didn't see the camera unit. Long story on that one.

A bit off topic in regards to the empty indicator light, but most cars will always have quite a bit of fuel left when the needle points to empty. I think this is more of a safety precaution just in case. My Aurion, my old Camry, my sister's Mazda, and Dad's Hyundai are the same. As an example, when my Aurion shows empty and the cruising range says 0km, I can drive at least another 80km before refueling. I estimated it to be around 10 litres extra, which seems to be the same with my sister's car. That amount of fuel seems a little too much in my opinion.

For map reading lights, the common one you will find is a T10 5W bulb shown below. I would be pretty surprised if Toyota weren't using this as your reading lamp. If in the manual it states 'wedge bulb' and this is for an interior lamp, then T10 would be the size your after. For the dome light, your common bulb type is the festoon. To find the right one, you just measure the length of the bulb. Attached is a diagram of a 31mm festoon bulb which should be what your dome light uses. Someone else needs to confirm this though. I mean, my Aurion came with a 31mm festoon originally. That would be pretty slack of Toyota if they put a larger/brighter bulb in a smaller car.

bingo

Well good marketing there. I somehow want to buy Guitar Hero all of a sudden.

Was there really a third adjustment screw? I was cleaning up my engine bay earlier and was curious, so I took another look. I was unable to find any more adjustment screws than what I had shown already. By any chance, were you referring to this: If so, that would be the buzzer that goes "beep beep" when you lock/unlock your doors. Quite odd having it in the headlight eh. Edit: OMG; I feel so stupid now. The third adjustment screw was sitting right in front of me. I wasn't quite thinking outside the box. Looks like this is the up/down aiming screw. I have read that all you need to do is insert a Philips head screw driver into there and turn, but I'm not going to experiment on that. Totally agreed... It is really very nicely adjusted - so much so that I think even if the service place touched it they would likely stuff it up! Mine was perfect when I got it, beautiful sharp cutoff line, and a beam that would light up the road for miles up ahead - until a branch fell while I was driving at 60km/h, hit the front edge of the bonnet, smashed the windscreen and dented the roof... and now results in a beam that has a blurry center point with a dodgy cutoff line =\ Dunnoh what to do now... fix it myself and possibly make it worse, or get service to do it and likely do the same! It's a bit of a tough one. You can experiment yourself and if all else fails, then take it to the service centre. The thing is, when doing the manual headlight adjustment, it doesn't take much to throw everything out of line. With projectors, because of the sharp cutoff, you can easily see where it is aimed against a screen, but also as well, because the projector lights up only a selected area, it needs to be fairly spot on. In the factory, they have a machine that automatically aims them, hence the perfect aim nearly all the time, but I'm not too sure what the service centres would use. But yeah, having the low beams aimed correctly is essential because the high beams aim depends on it (which from factory, the high beams light up distance perfectly).

Oh man. Don't remind me eh. I am stuck in a finance inbound call centre. It is on the point of completely doing my head in. I'm only there because it's flexible enough to fit my study. I swear, once I finish my course next month, I am so going to quit that job and return to my old one. Pays nearly twice as much and I get travel and accommodation included when I need to work interstate.

Because all I've heard was from The States, owners over there were reporting that it cost them between USD$550 - $650 including fitment at a Toyota Dealer. They apparently only drop 1" in the front and 1.4" in the rear. Also to quote a user (PrincessPeach) in the Toyota Nation forums: