DJKOR

With the search parameters of "traction control", you will find this thread: Turning off TRC (Traction Control) With that said, Philip2156 has mentioned that this sequence has worked for him as well. I am yet to confirm that with another ZR6/Presara/TRD 3500SL owner, but I can say that it has not worked on my SX6.

The last of the sensors are at that awful merge point for the exhaust underneath the engine (see attached photo). Therefore, dropping the resonator should have no issue; even dropping the cat right next to it (second photo) should have no impact as well (impact of fines excluded). However, with that said though, I think I recall SecaBoy mentioning about his check engine light coming on after dropping everything after that cat. From past experiences, I think the whole emissions reduction system in the Aurion is pretty sensitive, and that may have been some odd occurrence. This car certainly is screaming for a new exhaust system though and I wonder who will be the first to get it all going.

Well the thing with the Remus Exhaust is that they are built specifically for each given application. At the moment, they don't have one for the Aurion, or even the 06+ Camry for that matter. Now you could go through the database of mufflers they do have and see if they have one that would fit well in the stock muffler area for the Aurion if you really wanted to. However, since each muffler is made for a specific car, they might not give the result that you were looking for when placed on another. Your best bet would be to shoot off an email to Remus to ask if they have any plans for the Aurion.

I know I may seem to know quite a bit, but I think a lot of that comes down to knowlege others can find if you look hard enough; it's just that I like the job of researching. Anyways, I can't really make a comparisson between King and Pedders mainly because I have only had experience with one. I had Kings in my old 91 Camry, but I wasn't after anything special so I didn't pay much attention to any sagging or whatnot. That car always seemed to sit higher on the rear end anyways. The ride quality was alright; don't know what I was meant to expect from it whether good or bad. Interestingly enough, sSEXSIX has asked the same question and there are some answers over here: Kings or Pedders?? As for the sagging in the rear on any springs, you can look into getting urethane cushions like shown below. This will make the ride slightly less smooth, but they help.

Did some more playing around today. I really think I need to change my music style in the car if bass is my target. I thought a lot of my electro/techno had a lot of bass in it, but I guess I was wrong. Put some RnB on and... wow. Even still though, pushing it hard, the excursion on my sub is around about half of that in the video attached in my first post. I have a feeling my pre-outs are 2V so I reckon I have the potential to push the gain a little higher (it's amazing the difference a small turn does on that thing) so that at least I am getting more out of the main style of music I listen to. Hehehe. Thanks man. I'll see how I go. If I can get my hands on an oscilloscope, I'll use that to keep an eye on any clipping while I set it up. Having the amp rated 100W, that should really be the only thing I need to worry about right? It's just with things so loud, I don't know how I would spot any clipping.

Thanks guys. I just spend a lot of time reading around and seeing what others are doing. I can only research for now while I'm still on a student budget. I like to know the ins and outs of my car as well. I am a very hands on person. Anyways, there was one more thing I was going to mention in regards to extra body stiffening; a floor bar. This one would only be for those really serious about doing what they can. These are pictures from an 07 Camry (it should be mounted more further back): And this is what it looks like in a Subaru. Notice how it is mounted further back: If one was considering this for the Aurion, I reckon that if it were all the way back as far as possible, it shouldn't be an issue for anyone sitting in the back. If you sit in the rear of the Aurion, you will notice that there is quite a bit of leg room. You could easily sit with your feet forward slightly to avoid the bar.

All Aurion's have the rear bracing behind the seat. It was briefly talked about here, but I'll attach another diagram to show the bracing behind the seat. It may depict a Sportivo, but all Aurion's are the same: After changing your tires for something a bit more grippy, if you want to improve handing, you can look into an UltraRacing Front Strut Bar, 4 point Front Brace, and Rear Sway Bar Upgrade Those may say it's for a Camry (and even shows the 2.4L model), but it is a direct fit with the Aurion. Those may help stiffen things up a bit, but if you really want to improve everything, you will need to look into changing your suspension as well.

Excuse me if this is a bit long, but I can't help it when I need to write stuff up. Anyways, when it comes to audio, I'm not all that knowledgeable. I know all the wiring and the basics of getting it running, but when it comes to driving it to do what it has the potential to do, I usually get scared of blowing something up. So in my car I have an MTX 300W Monoblock driving a MTX Sledgehammer 7500 which is rated at 400W. Firstly I know that I probably should have gone for an amp rated at 400W, but I didn't want to push my luck (MTX also says an amp between 200W-400W will be suitable). Anyways, I have been using it for a few months already and I keep getting the feeling that this subwoofer has much more potential than what I get out of it. Now I'm not looking to run it at full bore all the time; just every so often when there is good song. Anyways, its hard to say how hard I push it, but the best way to describe it is that at most, I run it at a level which makes the parcel shelf and spoiler buzz lightly. occasionally my sunglasses in the overhead holder as well. The sub itself doesn't really show much excursion when I it is running at a level that I think is high. Just to give an idea, this is the amp and sub that I am using: Subwoofer - MTX T7512-44 (Tech Specs) in Sledgehammer enclosure: Amplifier - MTX Thunder 300XD: Now this part is hard to explain, but anyone with an MTX amp with the remote gain feature should understand. On the amp itself, I have the gain set to about '3V' on the scale of 5V-0.25V. This equates to about 1/5 of the maximum gain. My amp is fed from the RCA pre-outs on my head unit which unfortunately I can not determine what level that is. The bass boost on the amp is all the way down. Then my bass is controlled from the remote gain module which I usually have set to 4/5 of maximum. From the looks of things, this remote gain module just seems to be a control to adjust the gain from 0 all the way to the maximum you have set on the amp. So onto why I started this thread. I feel that I can increase my gain higher than it is at the moment. The problem is, I just worry that I am going to blow my sub up. I don't plan to increase it to competition levels, I just want it to be running higher as I think that I'm not pushing it and getting my money's worth out of it. I was looking on Youtube and saw videos like the following and my question is; can a subwoofer like this really run at a level like that safely? Not that I want to run it that hard, but just to know that if I am pushing at least 3/4 of that level, that I should be relatively safe from blowing it up. I know it's a bit of a difficult thing to answer as every setup is different, but from looking at the video, that just seems insane. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! Probably not the best video but it's the only one i can find at the moment that shows the excursion the best. I'm guessing that I can safely go up to '2V' on the gain and work from there, but even though it may sound stable, I'm worried whether or not it is quietly dying without me knowing. Or another scenario would be that there is a sudden bass beat in a track which is something stronger than usual and that ends up killing something. I know I sound a little paranoid, but I just don't want any bad surprises.

Hehehe. If he doesn't claim to know anything about it, it's the whole, "if I didn't see it, it didn't happen ".

With the age of the car/engine I probably wouldn't be aiming to improve performance. Most things you should restrict yourself to (unless you got a big budget to do a full rework) is cosmetic modifications. I used to have an SV21 sedan and all I did was the intake, exhaust, and springs. With the 2L engine, your best move for a nicer exhaust note is just changing the rear muffler. I used a universal sports muffler (they called it a Magnaflow resonator or something) and it sounded nice and deep with no raspiness. Around 3 years back when I had it done, it only cost me $120 including labour. Prices these days for that kind of work shouldn't be too far from that. As for the springs, I had it lowered on Kings for $250 installed, but that was 3 years ago as well. Can't remember the place and don't know how much more it would cost these days.

Really? From what I can see, the area above the headlight looks just like my Aurion, and any other one for that matter. Am I missing something? But speaking of eyelids, man I really want a set now.

BBE - Seven Days and One Week

I wanted to make sure I got it right the first time, so mine is tied down strong. I didn't take photos because I simply forgot. I removed the splash guard under the bumper, then removed that centre piece that was in the front opening there. I then cut the mesh to size and drilled 6 inconspicuous holes (if you remove the piece you can drill holes in spots that are not seen), tied the mesh down and put everything back together. The mesh follows the curve of that centre piece perfectly and does not even move when pushed even with a little force.

Playing with the resonator is a bit iffy depending on the engine. In some cars, by removing the resonator and keeping hte stock exhaust, you may possibly introduce a raspy note to the exhaust that sounds cheap and ricey. Judging from how smooth the engine in the Aurion is however, I reckon you wouldn't get that issue. One problem with the resonator on the Aurion is that if you want to remove it, you will need to cut it out. It doesn't simply bolt on. If you were going to experiment by removing it, you should do what Darius did and get flanges put on so you can interchange between straight through and with the resonator.

Just a quick photo, but I finally sorted out the horn and the lower mesh. I'll take a photo in the morning when the sun is up. Edit: A couple of daytime photos. Nothing special, plus the car is dirty right now. Don't want to wash it for another few days because of the paint.

OMG. That was f***** sweet as.

Those look sweet as from the rear. The tips are not too large that they seem over the top, and the double wall on them make it fit cleaner than a cannon setup. For your car, it really fits in cleanly and adds to the overall styling of your setup. It's a shame that the oval Varex setup didn't work, because that means if I wanted the variable muffler setup, I would need to go the cannon method. I would absolutely hate having two cannons at the rear of my Aurion, so that extra knowledge is helpful.

That does sound kind of plausible as well. I only get the issue on my Aurion when I have my cutout open and have been pushing it real hard. The cutout dumps under the car and there probably would be at bit of heat involved there. The only thing the cutout bypasses is the rear mufflers, and I doubt they would do anything to reduce the smell if it were fuel related, so your idea sounds logical to me.

... But for how long, LOL. Yeah, I was considering painting my headlight surrounds but I actually quite like the tinted chrome on it already. It adds a little touch of luxury styling which complements the sports styling nicely. Speaking of styling, I guess I finally achieved the result I was searching for with my Aurion. The combination of the grill, de-badging, HID's, and exhaust has paid off. I was driving through a local indoor parking lot last night and this group of 6 or 7 people who were in my driving path just stopped and stared at my car. I couldn't get through and you could just see the look on their face that said 'what the f*** is that car?'.

Bit off topic, but what is that about??? I was just saying how that DerekD said a dealer advised him to be careful about the ones on eBay. When dealers say things like that, it's sometimes to make you buy from them instead and waste money. I was using the wheel alignment thing as a comparison since when I went for a service, I discussed the whole offset bushes issue and he said don't believe what you read online and that for $55, they can fix the problem with a simple wheel alignment (which many people here reported to do barely anything).

Neither. The key is knowing just how far to push it before your car breaks traction. With traction control on, once you enter wheel spin it will interrupt the power to the wheels, and you can get a loss from that. If traction control was off and you entered wheel spin, you're obviously not going to keep your foot planted otherwise you are not really going to go anywhere. You would ease off the throttle a little so that the wheel spin would stop, then you would give it some more again. Now both those cases are when you enter wheel spin. In both cases, you would probably not find one method better than the other; depending on your reflexes. The traction control on the Aurion is pretty laggy in a way and if you have decent control when you enter wheel spin with it off, you can probably do just as good even better. However, if your reaction ain't so crash hot, the traction control may prove to have better reflexes than you. Either way, if you launch without spinning your wheels, it isn't going to matter whether traction control is off or not. You most likely will do better than either scenario above. The traction control is there to make sure that your tires do what they are supposed to, and that is roll on the road... not lock up or spin. If it experiences some wheel spin, it will cut the throttle back, or if that doesn't work, will apply some braking to the appropriate wheel. If it locks up during braking, it will pulsate the brake at the wheel that is about to lock up to keep it rolling on the ground. If the wheel is about to slide/skid from a sharp manoeuvre, it will attempt to keep it on track by applying braking to other wheels to counteract the slip. So the traction control not only stops wheel spin, but can also help reduce the chance of your car spinning out of control. Edit: I stand corrected. A better explanation is in the service manual: TRAC (Traction Control) The TRAC system helps prevent the drive wheels from slipping when the driver depresses the accelerator pedal excessively when starting off or accelerating on a slippery surface. VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) The VSC system helps prevent the vehicle from slipping sideways as a result of strong front or rear wheel skid during cornering. Nothing is impossible. Whenever I get the chance, I'm trying to study a way in which I can make a switch for the traction control. Not because I need it, but because I want a challenge. No promises or anything here. It's just really complicated because even though the traction control is a separate ECU, it interacts with the dash cluster unit and engine ECU as well, so it's a bit tricky to override. Eg. I've got a what that does that funky brake combination to disable the the traction control, but I want a way to re-enable it without turning the car off, and I want to be able to make it turn off again once the car is running.

What other alarm system does Toyota offer. All I know is that standard on the Aurion is an intrusion alarm with immobiliser. The intrusion alarm is active once you lock the car and will trip if any door (including bonnet and boot) is opened. The immobiliser is a single point immobiliser that disables the fuel pump or ignition (not 100% sure on which) and only deactivates when a registered key is in the ignition (non smart key) or within the operating vicinity of the car (smart key). As far as I was aware, I thought this is the best that Toyota has to offer. I thought that if you want motion sensors and whatnot, you need to go aftermarket.

The first rating such as the '10' in 10W30, is only really relevant when the engine is cold. For Australian climate, no lower than '5' is really needed. That figure there does nothing really towards fuel economy as it just represents the viscosity when cold. It is the second figure that you should be concerned about (in this case '30'). This represents the viscosity of the oil at running temperature. A lower figure here would mean that it is thinner, and a higher figure would be the opposite. For most modern engines such as the one in the Aurion, you shouldn't need to go thinner than a '30' grade. So for even the Australian cold climate, 10W30 would still be fine, but if you were picky, then you could go for 5W30. You could push your luck and go thinner such as 5W20, but if you stuff your engine in the search of a slight improvement in fuel economy... well, it probably won't be a simple fix.

Something along those lines, LOL. Already taken care of. I needed to dust all the panel beating dust off it so the tire shine wasn't far off. Can't stand driving around with dirty tires.

Well some guys over in the states have boosted the 2.4L I4 Gen 6 Camry and it outruns the stock 3.5L V6 model. Toyota may not go that insane if it were a production car, but it shows the potential from an engine like that. I would say for the TRD Corolla, to go for the boosted 2.4L I4. This will give you the advantage of having an increase in fuel economy when you don't need the extra power.