RICE RACING

I don't follow dealer recommendations. I use 0w-30 in Mobil and in Valvoline use I think its 0w-40 (will check the bottles tomorrow for you if you like). I base this off seeing dozens of these types of engines apart on these ratings, they sound fine and look even better when you pull them apart, the viscosity far exceeds to manufacturers rating (SG, SF etc) which is what you should be looking at. In rubbish oils like Castrol and heaven forbid Penrite < (worst garbage made on earth!) you will need to use a higher viscosity to meet the manufactures rating and also retain film wedge at high operating temperatures. The good oil don't have this problem.

*Mine is but one view* I have always used Mobil 1 in all my engines (select suitable grade). < Perfect engine wear/long term durability. Recently in my own Kluger I switched to Valvoline (mainly due to half cost!) 0w-40 (their best synthetic) only $50 a 5lt bottle. It returns the same fuel economy and power, same engine noise up to 10,000km change point, oil comes out clean like the day you first put it in and it did not use one drop from 0km fill. Castrol I rate as the worst engine oil available, used it for over a decade before switching to Mobil and they were sh7t then and I don't see why they would have got any better in time? they do advertise allot and buy out peoples opinions through sponsorship but that does not equal "liquid engineering" in my books. Mobil (Money no object) Valvoline (Great oil for half the cost) Are my preferences.

Yes too much is made of "modern engines" and ECU controls saying they will retard knock events etc on lower octane fuel the fact is the engine will ping and detonate on on 91 oct fuel especially under high heat soak conditions (parked then restarted)and acceleration at full power, the ECU will retard the timing advance but the motor will still hit that bad point and its not healthy for it. All of these engines use a pre programed ignition curve and they will run up against it when they can, Toyota do say its intelligent and will reduce the power through drowning the car in fuel and retarding the timing (as I have shown in my logs of it too, and the reduction of power). But its just a slow machine at the end of the day and you should run the highest quality fuel you can, its cost neutral anyway as we have all discovered so you may as well spend a bit more and put in the better fuel, its cheap insurance for your high powered engine. 270bhp on 3.5lt is a fair bit of power. Winter time = you can get away with 91 oct (below 15 deg C ambient) Summer especially 95 oct or 98 is the best choice. (anything above 25deg C ambient) Remember also vapor pressure of all fuels is reduced in winter blends to make them easier to start (atomize) in cold environments, this makes the fuels more knock prone, knowing that its probably best to be not too much of a tight **** and just always put in the higher quality fuel (especially if you like driving hard or are towing etc etc).

+1 for cargo mat. That thing is great, must have for any owner who is going to use the back of the car to carry stuff.

^ No bash plates mate, its just a hell of a lot of worthless plastic! I took all of the rubbish off mine the 1week I had it and my fuel economy is excellent and the car does not look like its worth 20 cents with all of that garbage clipped onto the bottom of it :) *fair bit of work taking it all off, but its worth it for cosmetic reasons alone*

^ I too only use BP fuel, if its good enough for the gulf of Mexico its good enough for me :)

I know my thread is long on this subject, but you do get more power and better performance with 95/98 oct fuels, all the results are in my thread on this, economy is better too generally and there is never any pinging with 95 and 98, where as in summer your motor will ping under high load with 91 oct. Your choice (for everyone) all of the info is there in my thread for people to make the most use from it. :) In winter I use 91 summer I use 95 or 98 personally.

Been considering all weekend about selling the Kluger to get a V10 twin turbo 5lt diesel TDI VW........ read a million reviews, stories of blow up of turbo's on VW's, horrendous resale value, worse fuel consumption than what I have documented for my Kluger (+ more expensive fuel) stupid service costs!!!! and much worse acceleration compared to ALL of the tests I have carried out over time. Went for a drive today and my beast and it just accelerates like an animal!, thought to myself "why the fark would I want to spend double on a S/H **** box VW". So shelved the idea. Though I still love the engine in the VW though lol, 100% more capable off-road but I don't do any of that now anyway so not a big selling point. The complexity flat out scares me too.

^ Yes, I agree. Fuel efficiency in these things is flat out amazing. I was tempted to sell out and a get turbo diesel as I was mildly skeptical about the claims of the V6 3.5lt low fuel use but after 30,000km in mine across all types of tests I am in no hurry to do so (documented here) > http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15886&st=150 Clincher for me was the economy when towing my RX7 over 1400km round trip on hilly country...... amazingly good for a heavy petrol vehicle that has exceptional outright performance for its size/weight too.

Thanks :) My RX7 has F:R weight distribution of 45% 55% so its heavier to the rear, I don't know the load on the tow ball but it drives beautifully and it was stable in all conditions during the trip. sits down a little at the rear but not too bad as you can see in the photo. At night the lights are fine (no one flashing high beam at me), I thought about adjusting the tracks further back but this is the way its balanced from the factory for a much heavier front weighted balanced cars so I left it given mine is heavier at the rear. NOTE: you need to look at the PIVOT point in the trailer (see magpie) in the photo, it has independent suspension (air bags) at back so it needs to be balanced around that point, the deflection in the side walls of the tires indicate still that the rear tires/axles on trailer are taking slightly more load. I should stick my corner weight scales to get an exact figure though :)

Hi There, I Can't say how much better it is as I have not run a scientific type test between them, but to add to my other posts in this thread here is the fuel economy I got this week on my trip away to race my Mazda RX7. Details: Bairnsdale to Sydney (Eastern Creek)*return trip*. Altitude change 0m to 1070m above sea level (lots of big mountain climbs, not so great for economy). 3 day trip inc peak hour in Sydney driving, driving in and out of camping grounds, dinners etc, trailer and circuit shuttling around etc... Typical type average use for this kind of trip. Average speed kept 95~100kmh (on GPS), some above 110kmh on Freeway on flat. And all steeper mountain pulls around 80kmh minimum, so not crawling around. Weight towed 500kg trailer & 1320kg fully laden car (1850kg all up, on trailer + misc parts). 100kg of stuff in Kluger and one occupant. 1400+km covered and 12.9lt per 100km average. Fuel used normal unleaded, 95 and 98, no real difference noticed between them really. Here is some pictures:

What a heap of crap! I have just over a year left on my token warranty, mine does this noise at random now, I don't want to waste days arguing with the weeds at my local Toyota rip off center so will just leave it till it invariably gets worse then let them deal with it. Once fixed will sell the nugget and let someone else deal with the garbage that is Toyota. Only 27,000km on mine too. POS will fall to bits at 100k probably at this rate Oh What Feeling

Yes Roger I am kinda over it honestly, their attitude stinks. I won't be buying another one in my lifetime nor recommending them either. I'm sure all brands have issues but the scandals surrounding Toyota world wide since I had my spray justify my well formed opinions about them and what they think of their customers (all so they could make a few more percent profits to their bottom line! dogs!)

No mine is not like that, I will try to take a video to show you. Yours is directly related to engine speed and you can hear as the motor goes from 200rpm cranking to 1500rpm fast idle the timing chain or gear rattle gets fast etc. In my puss buckets case it sounds like a freewheeling gear on the starter not disengaging *I could be wrong* but it does not sound like that video of yours. Its only done it a few dozen times but its very consistent that it happens on a first start attempt, even if you crank the motor very brief so it wont start up then let it fully crank into life it seems to not make the noise from the starter gear clashing with the flywheel ring gear. Toyota is a joke, I will never buy another one after this lemon.

hey mate, my piece of shi7t does exactly the same thing, I have not rang the ar5e clown dealer yet, but will leave the car with them until its perfect (as when I bought it it did not sound like it would fall apart, nor any of my other cars dont make hideous noises like this on start up). in summary in my case it ALWAYS happens when the motor is cold started the first time (hot start does not happen, nor repeated cold start mind you, its only the first initial start), and its the starter motor from my analysis, basically sounds like its not disengaging properly, if you hold the ign key on for a bit after the motor has caught on it kinda does not happen. its just another reason to sell the pos before the brakes fail or the accelerator sticks and you die or the oil line fails and the motor fails. toyota = joke p.s. I noticed this start to happen a few hundred km ago, my defective toyota rubbish has 26000km on it for what its worth

Yeah, the pipe is there for me to collect along with the gaskets, I just could not be stuffed as I have been enjoying my Mazda and trying to forget the rage my Toyota ownership has given me the last few weeks. I will try to go in there next week and pick it up. Gay that I have to install it myself, but least I don't have to pay for the right pipe I suppose.

I'd rather sell the POS now with no worries later about how Toyota wont warrant their own product failings, I am involved deeply in the automotive game and some of the first hand stories I have come across from average people being screwed by Toyota over legitimate claims (engine blow ups for one) is something I dont want to happen to me. I have been a long standing Toyota customer BTW. This is not the first time either, I had one the infamous 80 series diesel turbo land Cruisers which majicaly broke their own crank shafts after the warranty period! Toyota stuffed around a few of my mates on that one too (I got out of that while I could before my time bomb went off). This piece of junk will be no different, and it looks like Toyota have learned little if anything they have gotten worse Its still rank gay that Toyota wont fix my engine to a new engine standard, to them I squarely say get f7cked and I will NEVER buy one of your cars again.

Yes indeed! I have been driving my RX7 allot recently, just have the POS Toyota parked out in the sun since this oil line scandal/saga. Will have a break over Christmas and more than likely put it up for sale in new year, then go buy the V6 twin turbo diesel VW I originally test drove (in hindsight for a little more money it was a much better motor car *if not as fast*).

Well I got the parts for free, and when I can be bothered I will swap out the defective part and its fix myself. My dealers reply below (nice bloke, least he followed through and I appreciate his effort to keep me happy). Peter We have got a response from Toyota National Technical on your concern(see below edited version in italics) Unfortunatley they are standing by their view that the new replacement hose is made from a more superior component, and will rectify the problem causing the recall. We have sourced a replacement pipe and gaskets, which we are happy to supply to you free of charge. Peter, whilst I can appreciate your point of view, I don't know there is anything more we can do for you. Response: TMCA are not able to support the installation of the metal pipe if you choose to do so it is your decision, warranty is only effected as a result of any modification causing an issue. Toyota Australia cannot comment on the various issues occurring in the US, the 2 GR engine was fitted to US model vehicles well before the engine was introduced to Australia. Toyota in Australia identified an issue with the VVTi oil line as fitted to 2 GR engines. The cause of the matter was identified as an incorrect material selection for the rubber hose used for the Left Hand VVTi actuator As a result of contaminants from the combustion process that are contained within the oil, this could affect the long term durability of the hose Toyota Australia has undertaken a Customer Service Exercise in Australia as a preventative measure to ensure that owners do not experience this sort of failure. We have written to all owners of vehicles fitted with the 2 GR engine and we will replace the affected hose with a revised hose material that will not be affected by these contaminants. Whilst the production countermeasure does involve the fitting of an all metal pipe, the fitting of this pipe was considered unnecessarily intrusive requiring substantial disassembly of an owners vehicle with significant off road time and associated inconvenience that this would cause owners. Toyota always considers the impacts of field actions and aims to minimise inconvenience to our owners. The rectification that has been conducted has been thoroughly tested to Toyota's original equipment standards which have resulted in Toyota's reputation for quality, durability and reliability being unsurpassed.

A potential car buyer is not going to necessarily look at it in the same way remember. True, I cannot help people stupidity :D My reputation speaks for itself as does my cars top shelf condition any way you care to measure it from brake wear to fuel consumption, engine compression (all things I can provide any buyer) but again if people are stupid its not my problem :P I love my car I treat it with more respect than the majority and thus I want it repaired properly as anyone of us who is of the same ilk would do :D

I can't imagine anyone worrying about that little thing when you sell the car. I think they'd be more worried about how much you have thrashed it during all your tests and whether you've left any bits and pieces out when putting it back together to look like factory standard Ken. LOL My handful of tests are nothing compared to how some clowns drive their cars or buying a crap heap from any major city that has lived its life in stop start traffic and rubbish conditions. My vehicles superior fuel economy over 10's of thousands of kilo meters shows how I drive my car all of time, you could rest an egg on the dash and it would not roll off :) No crappy dealer oil changes either (changed it out at 800km not the 10,000km from new) ;) only using the best of the best, thus I intend to keep my car long term and why I am not settling for this short term fix as detailed in my other posts. Thrashing a car is people who's tires wear out in 40,000km, mine are still like new after 25,000km I will get at least 75,000km out of them again all signs of just how delicate I treat all my vehicles any insinuation otherwise is deeply offensive to me. Peter mods' lol taking off rattling plastic and a cover off the top of the motor is not a modification but if you call having a pliable wiring harness and a cooler running car a mod then so be it ;)

My dealer is at this stage just working on getting Toyota's o.k. to change the part to what is on new engines (not worried about the token $50 cost). Either Or he is simply trying to cover his back side which is fair enough and next week I should have a resolution to make me happy as that is what my dealer wants regardless of what Toyota's service directive may say. He fully understands the obvious contradictions I and others have highlighted. End of the day Toyota can say what they want (I told him in person yesterday) my dealer will change mine over for me to keep me happy and give me a car I can fully trust and not worry about, just like you would with any new Toyota fitted with this engine you buy. The legacy of this is if ever I do decide to sell it I don't want anyone to stick their head in the engine bay and say "WOW this is one of those with the defective rubber pipe time bomb" :o

Being polite to Toyota gets you no where, nor with the dealer. Swearing or not it is a garbage situation, shame on Toyota and shame on anyone who tries to defend their actions on this totally Jewish attempt at funding their defunct F1 team.

I have had enough of this shi7, I am going to deal with this tomorrow! Reg Take your time print this out and read through this http://sites.google.com/site/toyotav6oillinescandal/ I will be at your office tomorrow 12pm and I will be seeing the Dealer Principle and giving him my ultimatum and also a litany of “options” I will exercise at my own time to anyone else choosing to deal with your Dealership ranging from on line campaigns to me being in person out the front of your establishment carry a **** placard detailing this situation to any other potential customers who might get the same service from your employer. I spent $56000 of my own ca$h not the banks money in purchasing this car from Dwyers. I will not let this go. Best Regards. Peter www.riceracing.com.au

Below: From my ars7 of a dealer (the accountant mind you!) Peter Sorry for the delay in follow up - have been waiting for Toyota Technical to return our call. We conveyed your concern to them, but Head of Technical has advised their engineers have confirmed that the authorised repair has been thoroughly tested and is totally reliable. I know that this response will probably not satisfy you, but as I am no technical expert, I must rely on the advice we have received from Toyota. You might have more success if you were to contact Toyota Customer Service on 1800252097 Tomorrow I ring the manager and tell him I will go out of my way to take whatever action I can muster to tell people to avoid this dealership and Toyota till these cheap bastards fix my problem the same way a new car is fixed. Don't let Toyota or your dealer fob you off people, they are doing every thing in their power now and will simply try to wear you down till you give up.