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Posted

yep, done heaps.

Doing it properly takes a LONG time and requires a lot of dissasembly.

Basically if you can remove the lower dash acrylics and tell the loom has been played with, the install is not good enough.

It's best to dissasemble the dash, de-loom the body loom, integrate the alarm loom into the body loom after choosing a location for the alarm module that is completely innaccessible when the dashpad is installed.

For the siren, a good place to mount it is up inside the inner guard area, so it can't be accessed without removing the wheel and splash-guard. You can modify most sirens to remote mount the switch to another part of the bay when you need to switch the siren off for any reason.

The typical half-day alarm installations are always crap and easy to bypass.

You can put cut points in the starter feed, ECU ignition power, ECU fuel control output, ECU ignitor outputs, ECU injector outputs, etc etc etc.

I usually leave the starter feed intact so the car will crank and crank but not start. When multiple points of the actual EFI system are immobilised, it makes it very difficult to bypass the cuts and get the car running.

Posted

yep, done heaps.

Doing it properly takes a LONG time and requires a lot of dissasembly.

Basically if you can remove the lower dash acrylics and tell the loom has been played with, the install is not good enough.

It's best to dissasemble the dash, de-loom the body loom, integrate the alarm loom into the body loom after choosing a location for the alarm module that is completely innaccessible when the dashpad is installed.

For the siren, a good place to mount it is up inside the inner guard area, so it can't be accessed without removing the wheel and splash-guard. You can modify most sirens to remote mount the switch to another part of the bay when you need to switch the siren off for any reason.

The typical half-day alarm installations are always crap and easy to bypass.

You can put cut points in the starter feed, ECU ignition power, ECU fuel control output, ECU ignitor outputs, ECU injector outputs, etc etc etc.

I usually leave the starter feed intact so the car will crank and crank but not start. When multiple points of the actual EFI system are immobilised, it makes it very difficult to bypass the cuts and get the car running.

dang...this is expert thingy for me...HAHAH me noob...but thx man...i'll try and figure it out


Posted

ps, if you're not experienced and comfortable with the workings of the actual body looms, I'd recommend doing a standard alarm installation the same as you get at the shops. It will flash the indicators and have a siren, but not much use for actually slowing down a thief.

You will most likely not find anyone that will do a 'good' installation for you.

Posted

ps, if you're not experienced and comfortable with the workings of the actual body looms, I'd recommend doing a standard alarm installation the same as you get at the shops. It will flash the indicators and have a siren, but not much use for actually slowing down a thief.

You will most likely not find anyone that will do a 'good' installation for you.

ah ok then.cheers btw

  • 6 months later...
Posted

hey i was just wondering if anyone had the wiring diagrams that i'd need to do a car alarm on a 1995 rolla.

im inexperienced so any other tips and feedback would help. i have a father who "could" help me... but he's an electrical engineer and just seems to complicate things more when i ask him for his help...

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