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C.j's Rolla


CjRasmu

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the amps fit between the floor and the spare wheel?

so when you open the boot itll still look stock???????

tell me how this goes, i will be very interested to see the results!

LONG LIVE THE GREY GOOSE!

silver conquestz FTW :P

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Congrats dude on getting an awesome ride from an awesome owner!great to see the car still within the forum..would love the same to happen to my car as well :) keep it within the family

Enjoy flying the goose C.J

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Update -

Finished my first tank of petrol. And compared to my last car, used about 15L less petrol for slightly more K's :).

Also, ran my RCA's down the side of the car, but you can't tell :)

Cheers,

C.j

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WOOOT, finished boot install finally. Took me most of last night and the ENTIRE day today to do. Some may say I'm just slow, but MEH.

Installed 2 powerful/noisy (50db) fans in the floor to cool the amps. Also put head deck in, but looks crap without a pocket or anything else. Have ordered a mounting kit to make it look pretty. Anyways, here are the pics.

soundinstall5.jpg

soundinstall4.jpg

Cheers,

C.j

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damn i should have thought of that with my two amps!

awesome work dude! 10/10 for perfect stealth...

but are the fans necessary? just curious coz i was thinking airvents or mesh through the floorboards/carpet would do the job too.

so the board the amps sit on are just laying on top of the spare?

you didnt have to remove the rod that keeps the tyre from moving round?

what thickness was the board you to lay the amps on?

hope you dont mind but ima have to do this on my conquest once i got the time n cash to buy more cables! lol!

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but are the fans necessary? just curious coz i was thinking airvents or mesh through the floorboards/carpet would do the job too.

so the board the amps sit on are just laying on top of the spare?

you didnt have to remove the rod that keeps the tyre from moving round?

what thickness was the board you to lay the amps on?

The sub amp does get rather hot, I know have vents at the opposite end of the floor to the fans for more circulation. Seems to be working so far.

The board is 6mm MDF, with 2 bit of ply stapled to the bottom that sit on either outside edge of the tyre below. So it doesnt sit on the rod holding the spare down. It doesn't slide around as it is hard up against the 2 plastic trays on either side of it.

To add to Jase's questions, does the board rattle around down there or did you insulate it with rubber or something between the spare and the board?

It doesn't wobble too much I don't think. Because it sits on the tyre, it has a bit of suspension there, and the false floor sits on top of it, with the sub on top of that. So not much movement at all. :)

Also, as an update, the 4-2-1 extractors are being fitted today, so will let you all know how good they are once I get the car back tonight. :) :)

Cheers for the comments,

C.j

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thats a great idea, might have to do it myself =D

the only problem i saw was you have your fuses and the rear in the boot with your amps meaning u have about 2 - 3 meters of power wire that is unprotected. sure some people say there shouldnt be a worry and thats true but if there is u have no idea where to start.

if the insulation for some reason breaks or gets a cut in it (were the wire enters the car though that 10mm hole or so) if that insulation gets damage and comes into contact with the body (and it will if it breaks) your car will start getting voltage and current running through it like a person on speed (if someone touches it and its more than about 500mA there dead or very close).

im only saying this cause i have seen people do the same and they have had problems(moved the fuse no more problems), and why would u put a protective device (fuse) near to back and very close to your system?? can anyone really justify this ??

just thought i would throw that out there, but its a killer idea

Aiden =D

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thats a great idea, might have to do it myself =D

the only problem i saw was you have your fuses and the rear in the boot with your amps meaning u have about 2 - 3 meters of power wire that is unprotected. sure some people say there shouldnt be a worry and thats true but if there is u have no idea where to start.

if the insulation for some reason breaks or gets a cut in it (were the wire enters the car though that 10mm hole or so) if that insulation gets damage and comes into contact with the body (and it will if it breaks) your car will start getting voltage and current running through it like a person on speed (if someone touches it and its more than about 500mA there dead or very close).

im only saying this cause i have seen people do the same and they have had problems(moved the fuse no more problems), and why would u put a protective device (fuse) near to back and very close to your system?? can anyone really justify this ??

just thought i would throw that out there, but its a killer idea

Aiden =D

I have a fuse 30cm from the battery as well, if thats what your worried about. The 2 fuses in the boot are to be extra safe.

So the amps are fused themselves, the wires after the distro are fused the same value as their respective amps max, and the line from the battery to the distro is fused to the value of both amps.

And update -

The xtractors are awesome! The sound is much deeper/throatier, and I can feel the difference in low down torque. Very nice indeed.

There was only one snag no-one saw till it was too late. The wire on the O2 sensor needs to be lengthened by about 40cm, to reach the bottom of the extractors. I had to get my dad to go fetch the sensor, take it to an auto elec, then take it back to the exhasut shop, so thanks to the old man is in order. :clap:

Cheers,

C.j

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:D The Goose progresses to the next level!!!

I'm so impressed with the additional work that's been put in her.

Now all we need is MORE PICTURES + Sound clip/You Tube etc.etc. (a neutral rev from idle to 5,500rpm will do it :P)

* 90+kw FTW!!*

Edited by RME1
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<_<

I gotta -

  1. Unplug and remove sub
  2. Lift up floor a bit
  3. Unplug the fans
  4. Undo the trays on the left and right side
  5. Undo main power cable
  6. Lift up amp board as much as possible
  7. Remove spare wheel

<_<

But still, It was made to be "easily removed". Compared to a bolted in system or something, it is fairly easy. I've already done it a couple of times, doesn't take me long.

Cheers,

C.j

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update -

Eyelids now fitted, looks great.

I have painted the PP Scoop, but still haven't fitted it because it looks like a pain in the **** job to do.

And my front so called "Carbon Fibre" grill has lost most of its top clear coat due to rain sitting on it. And I have noticed once that layer comes off, the pattern underneath disapears. If it was real CF that wouldn't happen right? Or aren't they CF at all, and just look alikes?

Cheers,

C.j

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The TRD "CF" Grill are cosmetic. They are just look a like "CF"

pretty much the sportivo style grill with some "CF" pattern on it, topped off with a clear coat. The best way to try and fix up the clear coat etching away is probably just spray on another coat - just part of wear and tear i guess.

Cheers,

Jules

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  • 3 weeks later...

Big Update -

Haven't been doing much with the car lately, and its mostly Blizzards fault :unsure:

But anyway, decided to do a bunch of stuff this weekend.

1. Painted brakes

Brakes%20001.jpg

Brakes%20002.jpg

2. Finally installed PP Scoop

Brakes%20008.jpg

3. Properly mount rear, and eventually front speakers. I hacked off the front of the original mounts, and an aftermarket spacer will be joined to that, which the new speakers screw in to.

Brakes%20014.jpg

Brakes%20015.jpg

Brakes%20017.jpg

Also,

Some pics of the finished Audio install.

Brakes%20009.jpg

Brakes%20010.jpg

Dash kit doesn't quite fit, as it is made for US Corollas, I have an Aussie made one on the way, so will sit more flush, and look better.

Brakes%20012.jpg

And this switch turn the amps and cooling fans in the boot on and off. Had to install this as the fans are rather noisy.

Brakes%20011.jpg

Cheers,

C.j

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