suspension for ze122r corolla sedan

[jonrolla]

ive just spent 4 hours looking for coil-overs for my corolla ze122r sedan....i can not find any listing on any tein or cusco books 2006/07

i have no idea what will fit this car since there is no listing for this car in ANY of these catalogues. TODA has listing for ze12# so do i assume that all ze12# parts fit sportivos, standard 1zzfe engined cars ,sedans and wagons of the same year???

im looking for a coilover that has variable height and variable dampening settings. Cusco zero 2 looked like a nice option however i have yet to find a product number for this item thats designed for the 1zzfe corolla sedan.

due to different rear end weights i require a coilover setup (sub box and amps are removeable..and thats over 100kgs in total).

any help would be greatly appreciated :)

regards jonathon

Edited September 28, 2007 by jonrolla

[selyaT]

so do i assume that all ze12# parts fit sportivos, standard 1zzfe engined cars ,sedans and wagons of the same year???

Yes

[Red_CT9A]

never knew TODA (Fightex) made coils for the corollas

cool if they do

[SuperDave]

Just looked and Toda indeed do make coilovers for the zze.

But this link lists a few coilover options, http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=10160

[jonrolla]

thanks for your help

so when i have a look at all the catalogues tomorrow ill look for NZE121 rather than trying to find a ZE122

[jonrolla]

anyone have first hand experience with DMS coilovers???

they look like something that would fit my needs and then some

thanks to everyone on this forum

everyone is so friendly and so very helpful

thanks so much

regards jonathon

[MT]

Drummond Motorsport Coilovers are the pinnacle of awesome suspension.

if you can afford them, lucky you!!

[jonrolla]

Drummond Motorsport Coilovers are the pinnacle of awesome suspension.

if you can afford them, lucky you!!

from what ive heard so far they seem to be the most versatile coilover for a corolla on the market.

[MT]

most definately. But, for the street i would suggest that they would be overkill.

Still, if you like em get em!

[CAP]

Black_Jet has them, you can ask his opinion.

[SuperDave]

Drummond Motorsport Coilovers are the pinnacle of awesome suspension.

if you can afford them, lucky you!!

My research (from American price sheets) show that the 40mm versions cost about $au2200 and the 50mm at about $5000. So if your getting the 40mm version not much difference in price over Zero 2's or Teins.

Edited October 1, 2007 by SuperDave

[jonrolla]

i was told if i wanted to get DMS that i would have to use the original tops of the suspension???

what does that mean???

can you buy aftermarket tops??

whats the deal with this???

[qkslvr]

i was told if i wanted to get DMS that i would have to use the original tops of the suspension???

what does that mean???

can you buy aftermarket tops??

whats the deal with this???

the suspension top is the ball pillow mount. the stock ones are fine unless you want strut top camber adjustability (and some bling factor)

[jonrolla]

i thought all coilovers came with a ball pillow mount with a camber adjustment plate.

sounds like they are optional extras

camber adjustment would be nice thing to have.

i thought lowering would = more negative camber which means better turn in on track but more wear for road tyres.

[qkslvr]

i thought all coilovers came with a ball pillow mount with a camber adjustment plate.

sounds like they are optional extras

camber adjustment would be nice thing to have.

i thought lowering would = more negative camber which means better turn in on track but more wear for road tyres.

No. not all coilovers come with them. some come with camber adjustments when the knuckle bolts to the strut. Having the adjustment on the top just makes dialing in camber easier. lowering our strut type suspension doesn't change the camber much at all. You'll find that it's only double wishbone sus that get huge camber change when lowering e.g EK civics, Holden Como's ...etc

I'd much prefer camber set for normal tyre wear. You adjust your camber according to how your suspension geometry changes (or doesn't change) as you corner hard on the track. for street, you'll never see the need for huge neg camber.

[SuperDave]

Camber does not cause as much wear as people think, it is the toe that does the damage. As long as the camber is realistic, like around -1* then you wont have any issues with camber wear. I run -1* at the moment and the wear is flat. Some of the Hondas run -2.5*. If you do fit coilovers with pillowball upper mounts remember that adjusting the camber also effects the toe. The degree to which it does this is dependant upon the ride height, and vise versa. So always have a wheel alignment when ever you play around with the ride height or camber settings.

Camber isn't to allow for better turn in, it allows the tyre to be as perpendicular to the road surface as possible while under cornering forces, thus giving more grip. However a trade off is less longitudinal grip (braking and accelerating). So a compramise needs to be made as to what camber angles you want to use.

Edited October 2, 2007 by SuperDave

[jonrolla]

thanks guys for your informative comments.

another car i use for some fun on sprint days its a crappy little home made kit thing with rear wheel drive (got a 4age in it so its basically a toyota).

you are spot on with all the comments however with this kit car when i changed from 2 to 3 degrees on the front wheels negative camber on R spec tyres initial turn in was more precise and instant and corner speed was slightly increased with a more stable exit. 3 second gain @ winton with this adjustment. It wasnt just better and more stable cornering but you could turn in with more confidence. With the change in camber the car had another wheel alignment so that toe was adjusted to the standard of no toe in or out "0" toe. I did prefer the higher camber setting for turn in feel, it just felt so much better and made me smile.

been reading a few articles about toe in/out in reguards to suspension height. I assume this might be controlled by caster or height / position of the steering rack (bump steer). The article mentioned that you might have in a static situation 0 toe or 1mm toe out. But what happens when the suspension is under load. If the suspension toes in under load/ spring compression then to maintain the arc you input you would actually need to back off the steering (which really is a bit unnatural). Where as if you can make the suspension toe out slightly when compressed then you would need to input a little more to maintain the arc, which in theory should be alot more natural instinct for a driver. Sounds interesting anyway but sometimes you just dont get enough track time or money for that matter to test these things.

thanks for your help

regards jonathon